douglas_vitello1

<p>Diopter correction lenses do interchange between the original F1 (mechanical) and the New F1.Try E Bay.</p>

<p>Somehow the extreme compact Rebel SL1 always fails to get mentioned in regards to a very compact travel body.I bought one and love the darn thing so much the 60D with 15 - 85mmUSM stays at home most of the time.The Canon 10 - 18mm STM makes a great companion with this body along with many of the numerous EF-S compact zooms.Not a lot of money and no big deal if damaged or lost on a trip.Just my opinion.</p>

<p>Like the other guys said it is the focusing screen and you probably bumped the release latch with a lens.You should not use your fingers to replace it because of oil and dirt getting into the grooves of the screen.Canon makes some optional screens for the 40,50,60D (not sure of the DA) that include the removal & install tool.I've always liked grid screens so I purchased a Ef -D for my 60D.If you replace screens with a optional one you must reset custom function 4 #4 for the screen you are using.The screens go for around $30US.Adorama,B&H,Amazon all have them in stock.There are a couple tutorials on U Tube on how to replace it properly.</p>

<p>I would send it to Canon for a quote.Would you sell your car because it has some recent damage?It is part of life as a photographer.I average out my equipment purchase/repair/cleaning costs over the expected life of the equipment and base my judgements on those figures.Lenses are long term 'keepers' and the monthly cost of ownership work out to very little over 5- 10 (or more)years.Camera bodies these days go about 5 years because of technology updates.Everything Canon has cleaned or repaired for me has come back better than new.</p>

<p>When in doubt even close to home out comes a old beater 30D and my 18-55 & 55-250 kit lenses.Better than a point and shoot but no great loss if something happens for the worse.The kit lenses do a great job and weigh next to nothing.I guess most thieves will feel sorry for me and pass on by?</p>

<p>The 18-55mm is not a terrible lens by any means and should perform well under most conditions.Try using only the central focus point and see if that improves things.Open the images in the latest version of the Canon supplied software for viewing (Zoom Browser).</p>

<p>We are lucky to still have Dodd in the Cleveland area though I don't know how long they will be able to keep all their stores open.The location close to me was formerly a family run store named Foto Center and had been in business for decades.The owner closed down rather than go digital because he said processing film was what paid the rent.He predicted correctly that they would never be able to compete in the digital arena because it was in the full electronics realm and big box stores and the internet would eat them alive.Laurel Camera was my favorite but the chain closed down over a decade ago for similar reasons.Now we have digital cameras in a slow nose dive due to smart phones so I guess the local photo store of the future will be ATT,Verizon,Sprint?How times change.</p>

<p>There will be plenty of Canon DX1s ($7000US ! ) there and working just fine.Canon is the same company that said the LCD and backup battery were only good for 5 years in my T70s (1984) & T90 (1986).Here we are 30 years later and everything is still working like new.Nonetheless I would still rely on my F1N if I needed to explore crazy extremes.</p>

<p>Don't want to start a digital vs FD war but now I am a little curious about how the newer cameras hold up under extreme conditions.Canon recommended operating range for the EOS 1DX (their current top pro DSLR) for use between 0 - +40C (+32F - +104F) and less than 85% humidity.I own a Canon 60D DSLR ( a very nice camera BTW) and it is rated the same.I find it hard to believe these cameras have a total temperature operating range of 72F degrees?The F1N would have a total operating range of 162F degrees if you go with Canon data.Can anyone straighten this out for me or are my numbers way off base?</p>

<p>Jeff,I could not find anything mentioned about the need to remove the battery in extreme cold.I assume Canon figured most people would be using the motor drive or power winder most of the time anyway.I don't and just keep some warm batteries in my pocket.<br>

They do say there is no need for special lubricants for cold weather use because the Astro-oil they used can handle the extremes I listed above.The camera was also designed for rapid extreme temperature variations and remain fully functional within the rigid design specifications.They are very specific that the shutter assembly was designed for extreme conditions and a minimum of 100,000 exposures.Not bad for 1970's technology.A lot of effort went into the design and unfortunately as time passes a lot of that knowledge is being lost.</p>

<p>Looking back through my Canon book "The New F1 World" that was published when the F1N arrived on the market they stated the camera from the factory is good for -30 C (-22 F) - +60 C (+140 F) with a maximum 95% humidity.They did state the lubricant used was Astro-oil developed by NASA.I doubt many CLA's are done anymore with that lubricant but you may want to ask the people doing the work.Never seen any information on the lubricant used in the lenses but I assume the L Series got a similar grade.</p>

<p>Sarah,BTW: I have no great love for B+W because back in the late 70's when I bought my first Canon F1n (that had a beam splitter light meter and required a CPL) I bought a CPL from them because they were the only one who made one.Well,it delaminated within a year and I fought with them for 6 months for a replacement and yes they finally replaced it (not happily).Guess what?It delaminated too like the first one within 2 years!Finally Hoya and Tiffen came out with their own versions so I bought them instead.I've had the current B+W CPL for over a year and so far so good.I bought it with mixed feelings because it fit the lens best of all the filters I tried.I still have the delaminated 55mm B+W CPL that I keep in my boneheaded stunt drawer....</p>

<p>Ok,I looked back through my 49mm -72mm filter collection (Tiffen,Hoya,Canon,and a few B+W) going back 35 plus years and almost all have approx. 3 threads with a nice lead.What has changed is the relief distance from the last thread to the frame.It appears to satisfy the market demand for slim style filters they have reduced that distance quite a bit in recent years.So you are probably correct about the filter bottoming out before you get enough thread engagement.I would still go to a camera store for fitting but would try to find a non slim style filter (if they still make such a thing).If they allow you I would do the hands on work yourself for fit.That was how I resolved my fit problem with the 15 - 85mm EFS and ended up with a pretty expensive B+W filter.In my case a CPL is on and off a lot so it better fit well on a $700 lens.</p>

<p>Ron,If there is a local photo supply store close to you I would stop in and try a few different brand filters on your lenses.Not all B+W filters have deep threads like many super thin filters made these days.My B+W slim CPL MRC (72mm) has about three threads including the lead.My problem with the cheaper filter was a out of round condition (it had plenty of threads).It screwed on about a half turn and locked up even though there was plenty of threads remaining.</p>

<p>Had the same problem with my Canon 15-85mm EFS lens (72mm thread) and a 'lesser brand' (cheap) filter.Purchased a B+W brand and it screwed in perfect.Many lenses (and filters)are made of plastic these days and the threads are not cut with precision so they can strip very easily.The larger the filter diameter the more problems you will encounter.Ambient temperature of lens and filter can also cause problems (especially with metals).I've worked as a tool & die machinist for over 40 years so guys like me tend to notice stuff like this.</p>

<p>I've never had a problem after using FINs,A1's,and AE1p's for more than 30 years.I live by the Great Lakes where they use tons of salt on the roads during the winter that destroys our cars in short order so I don't think that is the problem.I usually use Duracell 28L and am very careful when loading a fresh battery into the chamber (especially careful with the plastic battery door latch on the A Series).Never snap them into place but gently angle them into the contacts while pressing down on the lower spring contact.I always remove the battery if the camera will not see use for a long period because of potential corrosion issues.Springs under compression do lose their strength over time so it probably helps to remove the battery under long storage conditions.I learned from my CLA technician to never use a eraser on any electrical contacts (especially gold plated contacts) because of contamination from loose eraser particles getting into the works and excessive abrasion - he taught me to use only electrical contact cleaner and Q Tips dabbing instead of rubbing to clean.Clean the battery contacts too even if it is a new out of the package battery because they can lay in storage for years these days (esp.lithium).Hope that helps.Be happy and thankful because a little PX28 or 28L can last for over a year in any of these cameras something I can only dream about in my EOS film and digital cameras!</p>

<p>I still own and greatly enjoy a pair of F1N's that go back to when the model was released in 1981.I used F1n's before that.The newer model has better weather seals (mostly because it is a electronic camera) but both the older model and newer ones have issues with pentaprism weather sealing - there really is none at the pentaprism to camera body rails.The pentaprism and focusing screens collect a lot of dust very easily and I never understood why Canon did not do a better job in those areas.Never use 'canned air' on the pentaprism or focusing screens because they don't have good sealing.Out in the real world I never have had a performance problem with any of these cameras other than the bothersome dust in the viewfinder.They were built for military type use so they can take a beating for decades with little service.They were standard issue for the US Navy and that says a lot about the ability to deal with salty air and delicate electronic circuit survival.I imagine many service men treated them with little respect so Canon had to build them tough.The Navy unit is built to the same specifications as our civilian models.</p>

<p>I doubt cameras are made "in one room" for Americans.It would have to be a very large room!The parts come from numerous suppliers and that would have a large effect on the quality of the overall assembly.Many cameras and lenses are not made in Japan anymore because of the cost of labor.I work in the computer chip industry and can assure you the 'chips' in all your electronic toys come from all around the world.A good bet is a Canon USA refurbished unit because it is completely gone over by a factory authorized technician and updated with the latest software and firmware before it is boxed up.The refurbs come with everything a new unit is packaged with including a new Canon battery.Most come with a printed manual too.They are like brand new and every one I have purchased has been flawless (some are well over 5 years old).Never had to use the warranty anyway.</p>

<p>Sorry, my above post price differential ($130) is based on the Best Buy price with tax.They all have free shipping but some charge state tax.I don't think Best Buy will match a refurbished price because they don't offer them.I never like dealing with them because because they want you to drop it in your cart before they state the price/despite the price match policy.If you buy from B&H ask what the brand name is of the spare battery (there have been problems with third party brands) and SD card.I would stay with top tier brands like Canon,Sandisk,Lexar etc.Just my two cents worth....</p>

<p>B&H is great but last time I looked the 60D body (new) is $699.I'm not sure the battery is a Canon brand.They will be closed for the holidays so you would need to order soon.Adorama has Canon refurbished 60D's for $579 and they come with a 1 year warranty.I have two and both arrived in like new condition.Never a problem with anything refurbished from Canon so they are a good deal.I would put the extra $130 towards a Canon 15 - 85mm 3.5 - 5.6 USM lens. A great combination with the 60D body.Yes,these guys are all Canon authorized USA dealers </p>

<p>When the world economy is in the pits along with it goes a lot of impulse buying.Maybe a good thing for many of us.My dad always said "if you really think you need something bad sleep on it overnight and see if you still want it in the morning,nine times out of ten you won't and wonder "what was I thinking anyway". People don't have a lot of disposible income left over anymore and the last thing on their minds is another new toy.</p>

<p>Even though they are consumer grade build quality my Elan IIe's have held up very well.Very quiet and a discreet focus assist light.Can be had for under $75 in like new condition.I believe the Elan II and everything that came after does not have the 'gummy shutter' problem as they age.If you don't mind a loud shutter the EOS 3 is built very solid and would be a wise pick.</p>

<p>It was DOA on arrival and Canon never put their heart into it.If you have a long memory they once 'offered' a film EOS EF - M that had a similar fate. Once you slap a moderate size zoom on any of these mirrorless cameras they no longer fit in the pocket and you may as well carry a small Rebel Series.</p>

<p>Yes the military did use a lot of T 70's but they were in use for a limited life cycle (not the 30 plus years F1N's have been in use).I always liked T70's and thought they were vastly underrated and have owned many over the years.I have CLA's done but started having problems with some of them about five years ago.If I remember right that was about the time I could no longer get E6 in 24 exposure canisters and started to use 36 exposure canisters from Kodak.Even on the F1N's I noticed the manual advance/rewind took a lot of force compared to the less dense 24 canisters.I think this causes lots of problems on the undersized motor drive in this model.I continued to have the same issue with Fuji film too.That is why I use a AE1p as my back up despite the great loss of a partial metering option.Canon seemed to solve the problem with the EOS line because none of mine act up with the tight 36 exposure canisters.My oldest is a EOS 630 (1989)and that baby has one powerful motor drive!</p>

<p>I believe the F1N series was the only Canon electronic camera that was built to military specifications (potted circuit boards,generous use of gold plated contacts,premium grade semicondutors,etc) and time has proven they did their homework.All my F1Ns still work flawlessly long after most of the T Series and A Series have started to fail.I do keep a couple AE1p's in good working order as back ups and they too have held up pretty well despite the shutter squeek issue.I dread the day when there are no more competent repairmen who know this model and can repair them when they finally start to fail.Like Michael I love my basic F1N with just a P screen.</p>