bob_hartemink

I own both and use them on my Sony A7III. The 400mm is really very sharp and the internal focusing makes it a joy to use. My copy is the nFD version that takes the 1.4x extender making it effectively 560mm, at the cost of only one stop. The 500mm mirror lens is nice for its relatively small size and weight but it is less sharp and lacks contrast and is of course fixed at f/5.6. Only if size matters I take the mirror lens.

I read this article about someone owning a FD 17mm f/2.8, most likely a one-of-kind prototype.

[•] Canon FD 17mm F2.8 lens information Update and feature on Japan Camera Hunter bag 1500 — Steemit

Note that the earlier versions of the FD breech lock lenses do not have a spring inside the breech lock and must be closed by hand. Perhaps yours is an early version and is working as it should.

Here is the Converter B in action with the wonderful FL 19mm on my Canon P LTM rangefinder.

A solution for the eveready case could be the case for the New F-1 called N.F-1 S. It fits the New F-1 (but not with the AE finder), the original F-1 and the EF like a glove. It’s secret is that it doesn’t have a tripod receptacle, making life much easier. I happen to own one, it still looks like new with no deterioration as some other cases have. Oh yeah, the interior is dressed with lush black velvet...

Congrats Gabriel! I'm also a happy owner of this lens and use it on my Sony A7. I can't compare it with the later white version, however I think it is a great lens, Very sharp already at f/2.8, incredibly sharp at f/8. It has a lovely, creamy bokeh, also stopped down. But because of its weight, my FD 300mm f/4L sees more use.

<p>As far as the Canon R (Canomatic) lenses are concerned, I managed to do some servicing on them myself. I repaired and cleaned a stuck aperture, fixed a bent aperture arm, removed some haze from inner lens elements and lubed a very stiff focusing ring. This on my so called Super-canomatic lenses 50/1.8, 35/2.5 and 135/2.5.<br>

To my experience, these lenses are very easy to open and, more important, to put back together again.<br>

On the other hand, I also have a Canonflex R2000 that needs servicing because the shutter times are way off. But doing that myself is way too complex for me.</p>

<p>Bill, these are easy: W600: W=1982, 6=June, whereas Y1008: Y=1984 and 10 is October.<br>

Regards from Holland as well, Bob</p>

Gorden, funny that you mention the mysterious 50mm f/2, since I have one. It came with a T50 (sold in Europe). The

date code indicates this elusive lens was made in september 1985...

A little off topic, maybe: the f/2 is actually a nice lens, very sharp and at f2 the corner sharpness is better than the New FD 50mm is

at f/1.8, to my experience.

<p>Thank you for your replies. I'm still surprised Canon made FD lenses well into the nineties.</p>

<p>Bill, I think you are tricked by a change Canon made to their date code system. Starting in 1986, the first letter indicates the factory where it was manufactured and not the year. So the first letter, <strong>"U"</strong> from your 80-200L indicates that the lens was made in Canon's Utsunomiya, Japan factory. The F indicats it is from 1991, (as is mine, BTW).</p>

<p>Michael, couldn't UB0601 mean it was manufactured in June 1987? I have a 80-200L with code UB0500, which I think is from May 1987. Then the date code system was probably changed in that respect in 1986 too. Maybe some Canonologists here can confirm this.</p>

 

<p>Recently I acquired a FDn 80-200mm f/4L lens (now I have two copies of my favorite zoom). The date code of UF1000 suggests it is manufactured in October 1991. So I now actually own a FD lens from the nineties! In fact I didn't know Canon still manufactured FD lenses in that decade, apart from the odd 200mm f1.8. This makes me wonder: does anybody here know when Canon stopped producing FD lenses? In other words, what is the latest date code you encountered?</p>

<p>For what it is worth: I found a matching collar fo my 300/4 L on eBay that was advertised as "Tripod Mount Ring A(B) for Canon EF 80-200mm f/2.8L USM" It is black, fits perfectly and cost me less then $7, including shipping. It also fits my 200mm f/4 Macro.</p>

<p>Hi Ray,<br>

To answer your second question: to my experience de-yellowing the lens with the Ikea LED lamp did not influence the sharpness.</p>

<p>I managed to de-yellow my 35/2 and 55/1.2 Asph. by shining the light of a (very cheap) IKEA Jansjö LED lamp through te back element for 48 hours.<br>

Since the LED lamp doesn't heat the lens at all, this is a very save way. I read this tip somewhere on the net and, based on the before/after shots I took I can confirm it actually workes. I estimate the yellow tint is 80% less so hardly noticeable anymore.</p>

<p>I am using an M4/3 Olympus PEN E-P2 (with electronic viewfinder EVF-2) for a couple of years with a large collection of FD and FL lenses, to my great satisfaction. I recently bought a Sony NEX-6, mainly because of the smaller crop factor. If I compare the two, the pro's of the NEX are the crop factor and the better high ISO performance. The pro's pf the Oly are the image stabilisation, and the better resolution of the viewfinder. I still prefer the Oly to the NEX. </p>

<p><img src=" alt="" />The 300/4 L does exist, in fact I own one. <br /> Great lens!</p>

<p>According to Eric Skopec's Collectors Guide black Pellix's were made. Looking at the one for sale, it seems genuine to me because you can see brass where the paint has come off. Repaints will show silver.<br>

I learned this from this forum when I bought a black Canon FP and showed it here. The Canon guru's at photo.net pointed out nicely that this was repainted, they were right :-(</p>

<p>Another benefit of the faster 50 and 85mm lenses not mentioned here yet is that they perform better at f/1.4 (or f/1.8) than their slower brothers. I own the 50mm L, 55mm ASPH and 85mm L. Also I use the 50/1.4 and 85/1.8 with great satisfaction. To conclude, I also have the non-ASPH 55mm f1.2, this lens is very "dreamy" wide open, it only starts to sharpen up af f/2.8, To be honest, I hardly used it since I got the ASPH and the L.</p>

<p>There is more information to be found on the bubbles in the 28/2 in several forums on the net. It seems common for this lens. I own one with very tiny bubbles that are only faintly visible. The bubbles are not in the center of the lens are certainly not caused by separation. I don't notice any effect on the pictures. In fact it is one of my favorite FD lenses, very sharp and contrasty, nice colors. It is also quite compact and my copy focuses very smoothly.</p>

<p>I found something even rarer: a Canon FL screw fit lens. Look at item 380650310789 at the auction site. Never heard of a screw fit FL lens. Or am I missing something (like the mount)?</p>

<p>Tony, the Oly has a similar magnification feature in the electronic viewfinder, allowing a 7x and a 10x magnification. Om my E-P2 it is possible to move the focus point. This is very useful indeed.<br>

I enjoy using the E-P2 with lots of FD and FL lenses I collected. However I was considering a Fuji X-E1 because of the better crop factor. But your remark lowers my enthousiasm a bit, maybe I'll opt for a Sony NEX.</p>

<p>Hi Tim, those are two great lenses!<br>

It took some time to find them but I have hoods for all of them. The 24mm and 24-35mm however share the same BW-72 hood.<br>

Cheers, Bob</p>

<p>I use a lot of FD lenses on my Olympus PEN. To my experience the best solution for the heavier lenses is to use an M4/3 FD adapter with tripod collar. I'm using the Novoflex adapter plus Novoflex ASTAT tripod ring. This is a rock solid solution that won't stress your camera's tripod mount. Downside is that Novoflex is quite expensive.</p>

<p>Canon F-1N with L glass<br>

<a title="Canon F-1 New with FD L glass by BobHteU, on Flickr" href=" src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8369/8515226545_8c56077629.jpg" alt="Canon F-1 New with FD L glass" width="500" height="375" /></a></p>

Thank you for your responses. Mystery is solved: it belongs to a 8mm movie camera indeed, the 1014 xl-s has the 67mm

thread and new-FD style cap for its 6.5-65mm f1.4 (wow) lens. I'll pass that one and put it on my Vivitar Series 1 70-210...