evannorth

<p>I have recently started using the nikon 200-500vr on both the d7100 and more lately the d7200 after about 3 years of ownership and heavy use of the 300f4 ed af-s and tc14eii plus 1 years ownership and heavy use of the sigma 150-600c.<br>

For close quarter birding I can honestly say that the nikon 200-500vr is my current lens of choice.<br>

It equals my 300f4/tc14eii combo in its image quality and beats it hands down in its flexibility (although the former combo is far better for smaller critters like butterflys and dragonflys), when compared to the sigma c it still comes out on top in every aspect.<br>

With its light weight and excellent vr the 200-500vr is looking more like a godsend every time I use it.</p><div></div>

<p>i currently use the nikon d7000 and d7100 both gripped with a number of lenses for nature related shots. my fave being butterflys and dragonflys and some birds now and again. with either a sigma 150 or the nikon 300f4 af-s and tc14ii converter. <br>

i am thinking of getting more in to birding and an considering the sigma 150-600 contemporary.<br>

the question is, is it worth getting this lens or should i stick with the 300 f4 and tc combo and simply crop my images?</p>

 

<p>the question i would ask would be about the reliability of both lenses.<br>

an ever increasing number of tamron users using the nikon mount are having problems with the lens freezing and refusing to focus unless released and reseated in its mount.<br>

only time will tell re the new sigmas but i am keeping an eye on the sports and contemporary and disregarding the tamron because of its issues despite seeing very nice results from it.</p>

<p>if you are going for photos of butterflys/reptiles i would look for a used non os sigma 150mm. <br>

my other fave setup for the d7000 and d7100 is the nikon 300f4 af-s with the nikon tc14ii.<br>

the later set up will allow me to "fill the frame" with an average uk sized dragonfly or one of our larger (for the uk) butterflys from its minimum focus distance of 3 feet. it doubles as a great birding lens too.<br>

ok, so its over budget, lacks vr and is on the large side but it is a setup well worth having. it takes a little while to master it and get the best results but when you do you will get superbly sharp results. </p>

<p>the 60mm f2.8d is great macro lens on a budget. going for a song on the used market.<br>

the 105mm f2.8d is another good choice.</p>

<p>are you sure its not caused by the operator moving the camera slightly when pressing the shutter release?</p>

<p>if you take a look at the images from the tamron on its flickr group you will find some very acceptable images taken at 600mm. <br>

it certainly seems capable of detailed images at its long end wide open, getting a little better too when stopped down.<br>

at the end of the day it is real world images that count, not data taken from test charts.<br>

my only concerns are the af issues some canon users are reporting. <br>

i think i will hold back a month or so after its release in nikon mount before making a decision but so far things are looking better than i expected.</p>

<p>i owned one of these lenses a good while back. nothing good to say about it. pretty disappointing right through its range, avoid!</p>

<p>i recently considered this lens but decided against purchasing due to its close up performance. max magnification at min focus distance is nowhere near to that of my 300f4 af-s and tc1411. (i shoot a lot of butterfly/dragonfly/small birds). plus there is no gain in sharpness.<br /> also there are reports of stuttering during focus and focus shift with vr on at the long end.<br /> that said, i am in no doubt that it is an excellent lens, it simply does not tick all the right boxes for me.<br /> bear in mind that it is largely plastic in construction which to me cannot justify its price.</p>

<p>try the metz mecablitz 15ms 1. more compact than the others with no separate battery pack. works with the nikon cls. i have used it with the d90 and d7000 and it is as good as any on the market.<br>

avoid the nikon r1 if you use the tamron 90. due to the lens extension at 1;1 it will be very front heavy.</p>

<p>on a tight budget i would go for the nikon 55-200vr and the 18-55vr. <br>

the first a nice sharp, light tele-zoom, the second a nice wide, through normal focal length with fairly close focus.<br>

both can be found rather cheaply on the used market, or if you can stretch to it, the 70-300vr and 16-85vr, then save for a proper macro later on. a used tamron 60mm or 90mm should be ok but check if it has a built in motor as earlier models do not.</p>

<p>the sigma 150-500 is well known to be soft at 500mm. try manually focusing on a good tripod with os switched off, single point af, using remote shutter release or timer on a distant still object and then check sharpness.<br>

lighting and atmospheric conditions can also affect image sharpness but it is a fact that this lens can often be soft over 350mm. </p>

<p>i was thinking of upgrading my micro-nikkor 105 af-d to the 105 vr version or the newer sigma 105 os. and am wondering how they compare regarding IQ/CA when stopped down beyond f8, and focus breathing. is it worth the expense? i shoot dx at the moment but will not consider dx only glass in case i move to fx in the future.</p>

<p>if the op still has the 18-55 kit lens i would suggest the 55-200vr. cheap, light and sharp.</p>

<p>the tokina 11-16 is a great sharp ultra wide zoom for dx only. i find that distortion and CA arent too bad, but if shooting subjects with straight lines in strong light, (such as buildings). you will often get a white fringe along high contrast edges.<br>

that said it is rather good with great build quality and nice close focus to get creative with.</p>

<p>not that impressed. a d7000 and 300 f4 with the tc 14ii can beat this example.</p>

<p>thats what i was hoping. i contacted the previous owner who then spoke to nikon uk. the first thing they asked was if it had been dropped or knocked. <br>

looks like they may use this as a get out clause. i have heard of them saying this to charge for certain camera issues in the past.<br>

it will be the last used item i will purchase if i end up having to pay!</p>

<p>the previous owner had it serviced by nikon uk.<br>

on the first try out it focused ok at short/medium distance, then made a loudish brittle click when locking focus.<br>

since then it needs help to focus at medium/long distance. will not focus even manually at infinity.<br>

sometimes the af motor will not move at all at medium distance until i point the lens at something closer.<br>

it is making a rattling noise when moved or carried, at first i thought it was the lens hood. apparently not!<br>

it has not been bumped or knocked while in my possession.</p>

<p>my nikon 300 f4 af-s has difficulty focusing at distances over 40 meters and will not focus at infinity, even with manual focus. there is a very slight rattle when tilted backwards and forwards but not when rolling the lens. focus issues are with and without the tc 14ii.<br>

the focus limiter did not solve anything. anyone had the same problem?</p>

<p>i used this lens for about 4 years before moving up to the 300 f4 af-s and tc 14ii. my copy of the 70-300 vrii was pretty sharp at 300 mm too. i used to stop down to f8 using auto iso on the d7000 for good results even with fairly heavy cropping, often in poor light.</p>

<p>sorry tom. it just seems to be a variation in manufacturing tolerances. when i moved up to the d7000 the tamron 90 worked properly. <br>

i got shot of the lens anyway as the problem had already made my mind up for me. i also disliked the fact that it doubled in length so i bought a sigma 150. </p>

<p>i had a problem with the tamron 90mm and the d90. now and then it would give a false low battery warning and refuse to work unless i switched the d90 off and gave the lens a slight twist.</p>

<p>good grief! the nikon agent should have been a lot more sympathetic to your problem. if the above response does not work try it with a nikon lens. if the problem persists, give them another call.</p>

<p>the best option is the 300 f4 af-s and tc14 ii. it will be like comparing night and day when pitched against the 150-500, and a lot more reliable too. (in some photographic circles the sigma is considered a bit of a joke, it is closer to 485mm and not very sharp at the long end).</p>

<p>the vr version of the 70-300mm has different, better optics than the non vr version. or so i am told.</p>