cyril_jayant1

If you need to shoot with a camera without worrying about the light and measuring then you can use M6 with less worry not having to think about light metering ( which allow the technical worry to think about lighting and how to use it focusing 80% on your shooting ) When I use my m6 it is just like a point and shoot camera and I am very fast in shooting. If you are good at composing and focusing this camera has lot of potentials than any other Autofocus camera too. I think Apf priority is all you want on a manual camera. So m5 is not for me.

I think Portra 800 and 400 has two different aspects. I like 400 on my Hasselblad and never ever used 800. It was due the film saturation that looked different to me.

M9 and 10 has two diffrent sensors and if you look at the colour photos and the different between two sensors that produses that is what makes you heart matter.

Is this working or need more CLP? Looks like a nice piece .

If you store your lenses better to keep them away from the moisture and humid conditions. If you use a lens taken out a cold condition straight away to the hot humid conditions it forms condensations between lens elements and that's where the fungus in the air starts to grow. So the idea is to eliminate moisture and this can be done keeping all the lenses well-sealed containers ( Plastic bags and airtight containers ) with de-humidifiers like Silica gels. So this is an especial situation while using the photo tools during a visit in a tropical country, in the places like Sahara or in Iceland or alps mountains. Cold or hot weather can cause lot of condensations in cameras.

Keep the SWC and invest some money to get an M8 ( M8U or M8.2) is the most advisable choice. The fact of the First M being M8 and as it had the fastest shutter 1/8000 and it was constructed with two different materials of metal and ( it is duel color black and white) one metal being more vulnerable fo this high speed, it started shattering occasionally.

after they introdused the upgrade of M8.2 eliminating this high shutter of 1/8000. Leica had given up this feature completely from all M cameras they introduced up today. I am one of them who had that painful trouble to have an upgraded shutter. So it is well advisable and well worth not to go for M8 but for an m8.2 or M8u with good used and care.

There are many more to come until you change into Lightroom CC. That is the Adobe's Idea.

m8, not a bad choice apart from it being crap, flawed, overpriced and released in denial

 

m5 to me is the most 'cultish' camera. a great camera but not for those with small hands.

 

This is what I hear, from time to time and I am sure that comes from someone who has never ever touched it or used it. I have owned all M from M8 to M9 and I have sold all but kept M6 and M8.2 . This is one of the best and I cherish it until to its the end. Nothing can be compared to

the capability of what this camera can do with a hand of a good photographer. It is only second to the M monochrome and great in Mono and color photography. This M8 is rather the Classic M Than the "CULT" of M for me.

The best way to understand this myth is to shoot an image with the same film ( EX. Tri-X ) with a same focal lens and with several other cameras. Develop all films in a standard development and print all different negatives in a general time temperature based developer and see the results and YOU SEE CLEARLY THIS MYTHICAL GLOW ON THE NEGATIVE THAT COMES FROM THE LEICA LENS.

I am a devoted Leica photographer and my experience of using Leica goes back to 20 years back when I found this Mythical glow in my B&W photos and decided to dump all my other cameras and buy my First M6. Since then I found myself the difference between the Leica lenses and the other brand lenses. This is highly visible on a camera with an older sensor( M8 as an example ) and a Leica own lenses.

Don' t worry about the year, Keep shooting, This is a good lens and older lenses like this have all the rendering qualities into softer / dreaming or subtle recording on the film.

It is known as less contrast too if you know something about the B&W contrast comparable to the modern Summicron lens. This can see clearly on a digital M than on a film body.

What cameras are you using with this Finder?

If you are using a 2000/ 200 series you have to check with the camera body if there is anything to do with the electronic contacts of the body that is the origin of the problems. Detach the camera from the Angle prism and if you have a waist level finder put that one on and see if you can read the light meter and the reading.

The new update into lightroom classic and Lightroom Cloud is another way to give away all right to use the software as you used to before but they lead you to do everything on their own terms.

I had been using my M6 for 19years. I never had any parallax or range finder path problem.

I was very comfortable about shooting m6 with the light meter as it gave me more 10% to concentrate on shooting than with any other camera without an in -camear metering Whatever argument is it in camera metering allows you

to reduce your concentration on camera techniques and be more attantive and be more productive on shooting with M6 with it's built in reliable meter. But this can exclude some occasional and specific lighting situations

Cartier Bresson's pictures were based on silver gelatine and black and white photography.

It is still a great camera. In a right hand and also with a lucky buy to find a least used m8 will be a blessing.

But there's one thing more inportant thing to consider.

Ddon't buy a M8 but a M8.2 or M8.2U ( an upgraded version ) to avoid further worries about the shutter breakdown due to highest shutter speed at 1/8000.

So all the M cameras reliable shutter speed is limited to 1/4000. It was stablished by Leica when they upgraded m8 into M8.2 and it was continued om all M camera.s up to the present. I have gone through that and still my M8.2U is a great camera for me.

This seem to me a processing, scanning problem or in camera problem.

If you look closely into the negatives if you see any traces of chemical or water marks or scratches then it could be the origin of the problem. For me, I never believe the story of any Xray fogging could make such marks. Many people talks about the Xray but they don't have any proof to show but always talk something that has not happened to them. That has not personally happened to me going through several airport X-Ray machines and over several times.

Best way is before using the new films and if you have several try to use a film which is completely different from this batch and give it to a different lab and compare the result. If you have the same problem then it is origin of your camera. I don't know what camera is yours most of the Leica cameras are very reliable and light proof.

<p>Thank you, Charles. Now I got the clear picture and Now I got the clear picture and understand how the domain name works and what's it roll is.So I must get the domain name, go for that. perhaps find a provider and purchase it to run on the WP.<br>

Thank you for the information, Charles. </p>

 

<p>I am an Analogue photographer. 2016 was my least use of negatives I guess.<br>

Normally I am used to doing a lot of B&W / Tri-x.<br>

This year I'll be hopefully continuing to catch up with the delay.</p>

<p>Hello, There!<br /> I am looking for help to create a Photo website.<br /> I am having an Idea about Square Space or Wordpress. Word press provides a domain address while you get registered and Square Space too.<br /> If I get Wordpress free version as the beginning stage, I get the Domain and is that not valid enough later, onto upgrading your Site to a higher level?<br /> So is it necessary to buy the Domain from the very beginning? and going forward?<br /> Thanks for the help and giving me the answers. These question could seem a bit silly. But it is something complicating to me as I know nothing in this area.<br /> Thanks a lot again.</p>

<p>My one and only M digital is M8. I got it upgraded and it is far more better than M8.<br>

It is better than any MDidigi ( Except M Monochrome ) Only thing is it is not full frame but as long as you are used to it's crop factor you can master it easily. The Colours are unique and CCD Kodak sensor is the reason behind all. This camera is limited in so many ways due to discontinuing. It's major after sales, spare parts and repairs are limited. They are not available anymore. <br>

So the camera will be ended up as a paper weight one day.<br>

So get the maximum out of it while it is living.</p>

<p>It depends on how you defined the sharpness. Just like the debate of contrast sharpness in the photo is individual. Sometimes I like my photos sharp and not very sharp depending on the content of the image.Some non-Leica can produce excellent photos just non-comparable to a sharp photo done through a Leica lens. <br>

But it is not the real different aspect of the Leica and the other brands to my personal experience. It is the difference of the luminosity of contrast of a print that gives the first impression. I found this on my own experience in darkroom prints I did. I have found a less luminosity on other lenses but on Leica it was more beautiful and a higher quality that adds to the contrast as the sharpness. So I had invested on few Leica lenses I use on my Leica M cameras. </p>

<p>I have m8.2Up and it is a great camera. I never shoot any thing other than DNG which the best. When I compare the Photos of other uses of M9 /ME/M240/M M i think my photos are greater than theirs and I feel lot of thing like PP and shooting with other files Than Raw makes it a big afferent . I like to own a M9 as they have more advanced features and gives more advantages like high file sizes and and the quality i am not sure.</p>