adi_frank

My advice is that you leave them in the mounts as they will be MUCH easier to handle.

Thanks for the reply!

Yes, I definitely intend to leave them in the white plastic mounts. If that was all, I'd be fine with slide holder trays on a flatbed scanner.

But the problem is that in addition to the white plastic mounts they are also in metal frames. With those on, they won't fit int the slide holders. So I'm wondering if anyone knows if there is a way to scan the slides without removing the metal frames.

Hi I have a large number of old slides that I found. They were made in the 1960s and 1970s and I want to scan them, but not sure how to scan slides. I've scanned negatives, but never scanned slides.

I've watched a few youtube videos, but none matched my specific circumstances and intentions.

 

Here's the rundown:

 

1. It's very important to me that it is a very high quality scan.

 

2. There are two formats of slides: I believe they are called formats 126 and 127. Here's a photo:

https://i.imgur.com/CZW0lIs.png

 

3. All the slides are mounted in these metal frames. The metal frames are removable if you pry them open with the end of a screwdriver and then push the slide out, but I have about 300 slides to scan. Also, if I don't have to, I'd rather not remove them.

https://i.imgur.com/gIFRdZI.png

 

4. I have access to facilities where they have these two types of scanners:

Hasselblad Flextight X1

Epson Perfection 11000XL flatbed scanner

 

Can this be done? Please let me advise me if you know how :)

 

Thanks!

<p>Thanks guys. Will try these techniques out. Thank you!</p>

<p>Hi. I have an exhibition coming up. I'm printing with inkjet on <strong>MOAB Entrada Rag Natural 190</strong> paper. <br>

I will be mounting the prints on wood.<br>

The Entrada Rag Natural paper is made from cotton fiber. We did some tests and mounted a couple of small prints on the wood and what's troubling me is that while the paper is fairly thin (the thinnest cotton based fine art paper that MOAB makes for inkjet), I can still clearly see white along the edges of the print where it was trimmed. Apparently the cotton fibers fluff ever so slightly when trimmed which probably causes this.<br>

So when mounting a dark print on relatively dark would, there is a noticeable white lining around the image.<br>

Does someone know any way to overcome this? Someone suggested trimming the paper with laser, but I'm not sure he knows what he's talking about, so just wanted to get some second opinions.<br>

Looking forward to replies from someone who has experience with this type of work. Thanks!</p>

 

<p>Hi. Took the camera to repair service. Yesterday they said they can fix it - requires overhaul of winding mechanism. $300. Will be ready Monday.<br>

I guess they managed to fix the problem without needing parts, because I know that the winding mechanism parts for this model are unavailable anywhere - even not at Mamiya USA, since Mamiya stopped making parts for the Mamiya 6 some years ago.<br>

I hope it works as before. Will let you know. Thanks for the help.</p>

<p>The thing that really has me confused is that the film frame counter DOES advance as I wind the film - so apparently the camera DOES know there's film loaded, at least in respect to the counter....<br>

I just can't figure it out...</p>

<p>Hi. I spoke to technical support at MAC Group in New York. They wouldn't let me speak to a technician to try and troubleshoot the problem on the phone. So without a choice I'll need to have the camera sent for repair.<br /><br />But I believe I have managed to narrow down the problem.<br /><br />After doing all sorts of tests, I have a strong feeling that the problem is that for some reason the camera is not registering there is film in it. And that is why the shutter release button won't fire, the film-advance lever will wind the film without it stopping at frame 1.<br /><br />Does anyone know how the Mamiya 6 detects if there is film in it? Is there some sort of lever or electronic censor?<br />If I find out what detects the film, I might be able to figure out what the problem is.<br /><br />Thanks!</p>

<p>Regarding the frame counter reset question... I think I understand now. No, that's not the case. The frame counter resets every time I open the back. And I can wind through the whole roll of film watching the frames advance. The film will not stop after one wind with the film advance lever... I can just keep winding it. It's like the camera is not acknowledging that the shutter has been cocked and therefore won't let me fire the shutter release.<br /> This is what I've tried and found out so far...<br /><br />When the back cover is open, the shutter release button fires normally. When the back cover of the camera is closed, the shutter release button will not fire and a red warning LED lights up in the upper right-hand corner of the view finder. I found a tiny pushable pin in the bottom crease where the back cover goes in when closed. While the cover was open I pressed the pushable pin with the tip of a pencil and the camera was fooled to thinking the back cover was closed - so the shutter release button fired fine (with LED warning light).<br /><br />According to the Mamiya 6 manual - this warning LED lights up when pressing the shutter release button in the following cases:<br />a. when the lens mount is retracted<br />b. when light shield curtain is closed<br />c. film is not loaded<br />d. shutter has not been cocked (film advance lever has not been wound until it stops)<br /><br />I tried cleaning the gold circuit connectors on both the lens and the lens mount. That didn't help.<br /><br />I currently put in my 3rd test roll of film - and with the film in the camera the shutter release button still won't fire and the warning LED lights up just as it did without film in the camera.<br /><br />There's a small hidden button on the right side of the camera which I never new about. According to the manual it's called an Emergency Winding-Stop Release Button. I read the description, but couldn't quite understand what its function is. Could this button possibly help me or be connected with my problem? Can someone explain exactly what it does? Here's the text from the manual:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>If the batteries have been depleted - especially when the power on-off lever has been set to the OFF position during long exposures (at "B" ; 4 seconds or 2 seconds) - the winding-stop prevents the film from being wound. If this happens, push the emergency advance/stop release button with a pen or other pointed object as shown above. The advance/stop is then released, allowing the film to be wound. Please note that that articular frame will be poorly exposed. The emergency winding-stop release button should not be used for any other purposes.</p>

</blockquote>

<p><br />Please help... I'm in the middle of a photography residency program in New York and I am lost without my favorite camera. :-[<br /><br />Thanks</p>

<p>Hi Q.G. de Bakker. Thanks for you reply, but I'm not sure what you mean by...</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Frame counter reset not working when you open the back, so that when you close the back, you're still in wind-off mode?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Are you asking me if this is the case? Or are you implying that this is the problem?<br>

Can you please describe what you mean?<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>I have a Mamiya-6. A couple of days ago it was working fine. Today I put in a new roll of film, closed the back cover and started to advance the film with the film advance lever. But noticed two strange things: [1] The shutter button would not function, I would press it, but nothing happens [2] The film never stopped. I could advance the film with the film-advance lever endlessly (without having to press the shutter button, which as mentioned, would not function).<br>

So I removed the roll of film to try and figure out what is wrong. Strangely, When the back cover is open - the shutter button WORKS! It clicks! But then when closing the back cover again - it stops working. I press it and no click. And I can pull on the film-advance lever over and over.<br>

Any ideas what might be wrong?</p>