rolland_elliott

Yes there is a way to tighten them. You disassemble the tripod and replace the bushings. If you don't know how to do it, you should send it into the service center.

 

The real answer to your problem is to get a better tripod. If you have a Hassy you can probably afford it. What's this have to do with medium format photography anyways?

Why don't you tell us? You shot the film. Is it sharp?

 

If you don't want to trust your eyes and instead rely on comments from other users:

There are ton's of reviews of this lens in the archives. In general it is extremely sharp stopped down one or two stops, but poor at the smaller apertures, like f/16 and f/22.

People who ask these kind of questions, usually just want justification to upgrade. So my answer is go ahead and upgrade. Get an Arca Swiss or Really right stuff or Bogen "L" shaped bracket and use a monopod for "handheld shooting". There are many fold up monopods that can easily be tucked away. The AUTOMATIC metering options really improve my response times. Now instead of concentrating on exposure, I am more free to concentrate on focus and composition.

 

Have fun, Rolland

Degrees of freedom! Ugh, this discussion is bringing up bad memories of a college engineering class.

 

My simplistic solution before this discussion gets even worse is to buy both lenses used and test them. Then sell the one you don't like for about what you paid for it.

 

I know you probably wanted a theoretical answer based on text book facts, but I think my solution is more practical in the field.

 

-Rolland

Just use your hack saw folks. If you make a nice clean straight cut, you can easily put the hood back on again with some tape covering up the cut. Why work around the problem by spending another $20 to $50 for special polarizers? People want to look at pictures not pretty lens hoods. Peace, "Hack Saw" Rolland

"1) Professional video heads don't flop. This is one of the main design goals. A video head that flops is not dimensioned for the taks and its inadequate."

 

I hate to break it to you, but the $50 Bogen Mini Fluid head is not a "Professional" video head, it is a cheap consumer one.

 

It is actually very adequate for the job, you just have to remember never to leave your camera and tripod system unattended (WHICH IS RECOMMENDED EVEN IF YOU HAVE A $2000 SET UP) I have good pictures to prove it. I have had mine flop twice (while I left it unattended), luckly the whole set up did not fall over, that was enough to teach me a lesson.

 

Many if not most professionals never lock their tripod heads when using long lenses for action shots because it takes too much time and the subject would be well on its way. That being said the main fuction of a head should be to support the lens and provide smooth movement in panning and tilting the lens, which is what video heads do.

 

I am not recommending that you buy a $5000 lens and they spend $50 on a support. However, when I spent the $$$ for a lens, I didn't have the dough to spend another $1000 on a ball head, quick release plates and a bigger tripod. I made some quick release plates, had the minifluid head available already, and used a Bogen 3021 with the legs partially extended. It has worked well enough for me that I've decided not to spend $$$ on more tripod equipment at this point. If I need extra stability I use a monopod under the camera. I find this quicker than using one of those goofy leg extensions that goes from the tripod to the camera bottom. That being said I think the original posters idea of using the 501 Pro Video head is a better suggestion to using the cheaper mini fluid head made by Bogen which also uses teflon and grease for smooth pans and tilts.

 

Peace Rolland

I was going to suggest a bandana, but you are right you would look like a robber. I see robbers all the time with tripods and cameras and unfortunately this has resulted in other people sterotyping photographers as crooks. In addition, this would obviously scare off all the wildlife that carry wallets and jewlery. In addition plants might purposely droop their leaves to make them look poorer. Rainbows would fear you would steal their pot of gold and never show up (they're shy enough as it is). And worst of all other tourists and photographers would think you are a wierdo.

 

Obviously the only way to solve the problem is to buy a snorkle tube so that your breath is deflected at least a foot away from the camera.

 

You'll still look wierd, but at least all the animals with wallets and purses won't be afraid of you.

 

Chilling out, Rolland

P.S. You set yourself up for this one!

Well maybe it's just because I'm cheap, but if you pay over $1700 for the above system (camera, TTL meter, grip, and 45mm lens) I think you're getting screwed.

You can get the 45mm lens new at Cayman Camera for less than most places sell a used one here in the USA. Search the archives for contact info.

 

While the Bronica 67 system looks good on paper, there are not many people who actually use it. Therefore getting good used gear will be more expensive and difficult.

 

Have fun shooting!

 

Peace, Rolland

A cheaper solution is the Nikon 200mm f/2 manual focus lens. You can pick up one used from $1300 to $2000 depending on cosmetic condition. I use mine occasionally to shoot deer in the Great Smokie Mountains. Because they are so used to human tourists one can easily get close. I use it most often in the early morning. In the evening they tend to be a little more active and run away too soon.

 

Depth of Field is of course very shallow, but still adequate to get their nose and antlers in sharp focus, which is the most important part.

Peace, Rolland

Video heads have long been used by nature photographers with a limited budget.

 

I myself have used a 600mm f/4 lens on a cheap Bogen mini fluid video head, that I got used for around $40 bucks.

 

It has two main drawbacks

1. lens has a tendency to flop over if left un attended so one must never leave it unattended.

2. the tripod should be leveled before shooting to avoid having to readjust the lens' tripod socket.

 

In theory it is always best to lock down the tripod head before taking the shot, however, in practice one often just presses the camera back against their face and their arm over the lens to reduce vibration.

 

When shooting moving birds or animals one often doesn't have the extra 3 seconds to lock down the whole assembly. All you really need is a smooth way to tilt the lens up and down and side to side while supporting the lens. Video heads are the cheap solution.

 

Peace, Rolland

If you are going to buy new then buy from Cayman Camera in the British West Indies. Their prices are 10-20% cheaper than B&H or other NYC mail order firms. Search the archives for more info.

 

Peace, Rolland

I think the above two posters comments are a little premature. Your description is vague and any conclusions based upon it are no more than guesses. Professional repair people don't give over the phone estimates for a reason: They need to see the equipment for accurate assesment.

 

If you bought it to use in your artwork I suggest the following:

Shoot some pictures and see if you like them.

IF you dont' return it. IF you do keep it.

 

If you bought it as an investment, I suggest the following:

Return it. Most photographers (potential buyers) are super anal retentive about any mark on a lens and it's resale value will be significantly decreased even if the mark has no noticible optical effect.

 

Peace Rolland

Why would anyone want to buy a camera (like the F100) for nature photography which doesn't have mirror lock up? If you truly serious about bird photography You'll have a lens that weighs over 10 pounds and a clunky tripod and head too boot. The extra few ounces of an F5 won't hurt.

1. YOu can use use extention tubes with a slider. The tube I recommend is the one that give you the best magnification for your subject. You have all 3 of them. The purpose of having three is so that you can pick and choose which one(s) to use. You DO NOT pick a favorite tube and just use that one, while the others collect dust.

 

2. Depends on which lenses and tubes you use!

 

3. You have both of them. Why don't you try it and tell us? Mount the slider and camera on a tripod and fire the shutter with out film in it. If it shakes like an earthquake it's not adequate.

 

4. Why do you need 1:1 magnification? Sounds like you are worrying more about math than about photography to me. The bogen long lens support will work and they can be found cheap used. But it's rather clunky. Other solutions buy a 500mm f/5.6 tripod color from Pentax parts division and put it over your extention tubes to balance the whole rig. Sell your extention tubes and 135mm macro and trade up to a new 100mm macro lens from pentax. Use diopters like the 6T diopter made by Nikon. Sell your entire set up and trade it in for Mamiya RB 6x7 equipment, which does macro work better due to it's built in bellows system & rotating back.

 

Sounds like you've been spending all your time collecting equipment and not shooting with it. Get out there and make some photos!

 

Peace,

Rolland

"Does anyone know if/when Pentax is planning to release more auto focus versions of their 645 manual focus lenses? "

 

Yep, I do , but I'm not telling.

 

"Particularly, I'm hoping for a 55/2.8. "

 

Keep wishing!

 

"I know they released the 150/2.8 recently, but they sure do seem to be taking their time on the other ones. "

 

Perfection can't be rushed!

 

"They didn't give up did they? "

 

I'm afraid they did.

 

"I mean, are sales of the 645N down or is the competition from Contax making them reconsider? "

 

Pentax stock is down 50% and Mamiya & Contax are killing their profit margin.

 

"Does anyone know if they'll make anymore zooms for 645N? "

 

Yep, but that's a secret too.

 

Happy Holidays!

"If you want to test the effect before buying it, you can construct your own version with duct tape and plastic cut from a water or milk jug."

 

Don't blow $20 on that overpriced piece of plastic!

Skip, that routine and buy a 16oz bottle of Swiss Formula conditioner for your hair. Cut the rectangular container in half and slip the bottom half over your flash. A conditioner bottle has much more ridgid plastic than a milk carton and duct tape. Not only does this setup work as well as the Omni Bounce it costs about 1/10th as much. Plus it looks like a "Pro" accessory not a homemade piece of junk.

"Also does anyone have an idea of Kodak's minimum purchase for a special order of a certain stock not normally offered in 70mm? Amount/cost?"

 

A mere 36 rolls!

Since most 70mm rolls are 100 feet long and cost about $100 each. You are looking at the minimum of $3600 dollars.

My apologies the above link is actually a usefull one on getting Hassy backs converted to use 70mm NON perf film. I thought it led to WJ's listing of 70mm films which is severely outdtaed.

 

Also see the link below FAQ for 70mm IR films:

http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/70mm_faq.htm

 

 

Peace, Rolland

"http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/70m_hass.htm it may not be 100%"

 

That link SUCKS. 90% of the 70mm films on it are NO LONGER made. The one I posted above is much more up to date.

 

Peace, Rolland

"For those in the wrong part of the world"

 

What exactly is the "RIGHT" side of the world? I agree that we use a dumb ass measuring system, but your comment above is puzzling.

 

Your problem is not heat damage. Either your equipment is mechanically faulty or your lab screwed it up. If you post some pictures you might get more specific responses, but you don't give us much to go on.

 

Heat damage results in color shifts and casts not light leaks.

 

Peace, Rolland

I hate to say this, but your description of your problem is totally useless. Give us a picture and you might get some intelligent responses. Otherwise send it to a repair shop.

 

Peace, Rolland

This post has already been answered. If you did your homework, you would have located the following link:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=000gr1&topic_id=35&topic=Medium%20Format%20Digest

My question is: is it better to leave the slides in the rolls?

IT IS A MATTER OF PERSONAL PREFERENCE. MANY PEOPLE BUY PLASTIC SHEETS TO PUT THE SLIDES/NEGATIVE IN. SOMEPEOPLE MOUNT THEM. WHAT EVER FLOATS YOUR BOAT.

 

Also, will the rolls be a problem for my professional photo lab when I have prints made?

DEPENDS ON YOUR LAB. IF THEY DON'T LIKE IT, THEY CAN CUT THE ROLL UP.

 

I have a friend who says that any printer worth his weight would love to get slides this way.

DEPENDS ON THE PRINTER. INDIVIDUAL SLIDES CAN BE EASIER DEPENDING ON THE EQUIPMENT THEY HAVE.

 

PEACE, ROLLAND

I don't think it will. However the Ikelite Wireless Nikon Slave sensor probably will.

 

I base this on the fact that the SU4 wouldn't work with a Quantum X2 Flash, but a Ikelite sensor would.

 

The Ikelite has a farther range too! Buy one used for $60 to $80 US dollars and if it doesn't work, just sell it again, that way you dont' loose $$$.

 

Peace, Rolland

"I am holding an 82mm Cokin P adapter ring .... it is virtually the same size as the opening in the P holder."

 

The Cokin 82mm adapter is a joke! The opening of the P holder has a 77mm diameter hence, an adapter large than this, will probably vingette. You can cut most of the excess plastic on the P holder with a utility knife so it does not vingette on an 82mm lens, but out of the box it is not designed to do what its supposed to.

 

I'd vote for the 82mm filter size wiht step up rings. Surprisingly 82mm filters tend to be cheaper on ebay than 77mm filters! Probably due to the law of supply & demand. Every lens manufacturer and their brother makes 77mm diameter lenses and hence demand for these filters is very high. Get a rubber hood with 82mm diameter threads for the 180mm nikkor since the built in hood will be useless.

 

Peace, Rolland

 

Peace, Rolland