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stefaan_ellebaut

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Posts posted by stefaan_ellebaut

  1. <p>Hi Sarah, <br />Looks like an interesting link you posted. Althoug I won't be able to go through it all by the shoot I have planned on Saturday :-) I'll sure read it when I have a bit more spare time.<br>

    JDM,<br />Correct, I know it's largely a non-physical aspect but I was wondering if Holga-experienced photographers have an idea on what CoC come close to a 'standard issue' Holga 120, as far as that even exists :D<br />I know I'm missing some critical stuff about the whole Holga experience this way, but my question is only asked for the strobist shoot I'm doing this weekend. I've done some 'freestyling' without thinking about any settings or technical stuff this summer and liked the results already (see http://www.focaldesign.be/v2/2011/09/08/oostende-op-zn-holgas/)</p>

    <p> </p>

  2. <p>Thx for the responses Nick & Jim. I know the Holga requires a bit unpredictability but I'm a bit of a control freak, even with these subjects :D<br>

    The reason I ask is, I'm planning a strobist shoot outdoors. So it would come in handy to have a hyperfocal distance or a rangefinder card so I can focus more on handling the strobes and directing the models :)</p>

  3. <p>I've tried my friends Holga with Fuji color NPS 160 from 1997 (compensated 0,5stop for that) and Kodak Portra 400 (new). Results here: http://www.focaldesign.be/v2/tag/holga/<br>

    Each of those I metered 1/100 f/8(-ish).<br>

    I've tested the shutterspeed of my new bought one and it measures around 1/125. The aperture I hope is also f/8 & f/11 as the manual says. I'll notice shortly as I have an experimental shoot planned this Saturday...</p>

  4. <p>Thanks Pierre.<br>

    <br />I was thinking about Kodak Portra 400 for the 'usual' stuff but I also have some Kodak Pro Gold 100 I would like to use.<br>

    <br />In studio the shutterspeed is less important and the difference of f/8 to f13 or so is no big issue. But I'd like to try out some strobist shooting where ambient light mathers a lot for me when used with strobes. When I'm assuming 1/100 f/8 and actually shooting 1/250 f/13 for example, I would be miscaclulating 2 to 3 stops, ratio ambient/flash will be a huge difference to what I had in mind.<br>

    As for the arm. Seems to be holding in place. Shot both aperture settings with my iPhone and Holga in bulb: http://xposed.be/FTP/Faan/foto%201.JPG & http://xposed.be/FTP/Faan/foto%202.JPG</p>

  5. <p>I borrowed a Holga 120SF from a friend. It was an old one where indeed the aperture switch did nothing. When using a lightmeter I noticed his was around f/8 and 1/100sec.<br>

    After playing around with it, I decided to buy a new one for myself. I bought the 120N because in the future I would like to experiment with off shoe flashes and even some studio work.<br />I notice mine does have a working aperture for sure. I can clearly see a smaller hole being placed in front of the larger one when I set the switch to sunny.<br />When browsing and searching the web I get contradicting messages on what the aperture value now actually is. I read f/11 and f/8. I read f/13.3 and even f/22.<br>

    The same issue for the shutterspeed, I'm reading from 1/100 to 1/250sec.<br>

    My manual says 1/125s and f/8-f/11 but who knows...<br>

    I don't like to waste film just to test this, although I'm getting the feeling that will be the only way...<br />Any of you guys have some thoughts on this?</p>

     

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