anthony_r.1

Thanks for the responses everyone. This was the best shot I could get. They were already in flight and I would have missed any shot at all if I had tried to switch to a longer lens. So I had to get what I could with the lens I had on the camera, which was a 17-55mm. I cropped the image to get a little closer look but I didn't want to crop too much. It looks like Canada Geese and Sandhill Cranes then.

There appear to be two types of birds here. The gray ones in the foreground I believe are sandhill cranes. Can anyone identify the darker colored ones in flight with the distinctive white V pattern on the tail? Thanks.

Sitagu Buddha Vihara Burmese Buddhist Temple, Austin, TX. iPhone X.

I have been experimenting with the hi-res mode on my E-M1 Mark II. I have noticed some strange artifacts that appear in several locations in my hi-res shots, both in the JPeg and the 80mb raw images. They are sometimes red and sometimes blue. They only seem to appear in the shadow areas of low light, low ISO, long exposure shots. They do not appear in normal resolution shots under the same conditions. I've attached a couple of 100% crops. These came from a hi-res raw shot with a 75mm lens, at f/8, 8 seconds, 64 ISO. Has anyone else seen anything like this before?

Sorry if this is in the wrong forum. I'm new to this new version of photo.net. This will be my first time shooting a solar eclipse. I've read articles about it and watched videos, and I am going to practice shooting the sun before the actual event so that I know how to set my focus and exposure. But there is one thing that I cannot practice in advance and that I am still not clear about. How do I set my exposure during the time of totality? Thanks in advance.

<p>Thanks everyone! All very helpful.</p>

<p>Thanks. I will try these suggestions. One more thing, how does Black Point Compensation affect the printed image?</p>

<p>I guess I need to make my own printer profiles. My monitor is already calibrated using a Spyder 5 Pro, and I'm using the Epson supplied ICC profiles for the paper being used, but the prints come out too dark when they look fine on the screen. In order to compensate, I have to increase the brightness in Photoshop, and that requires guesswork. I'm wasting too much paper.</p>

<p>Subject says it all. I have an Epson Stylus Photo 1400, running Window 10.</p>

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<p>Does anyone have experience with the Metabones Smart Adapter for Canon EF/EF-S lenses on an E-M5II? How well does it work? Any issues?</p>

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<p>Never mind. It's a drooping trillium. Thanks anyway.</p>

<p>Can anyone identify this wildflower please?<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18225947-lg.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="640" /></p>

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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18223543-lg.jpg" alt="" width="540" height="720" /><br>

Olympus OM-D E-M10 with Lumix G Vario 35-100/f2.8</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18223532-lg.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="540" /><br>

<strong>Canon 7DII and EF 100-400LII</strong></p>

<p>Check out Vicki Heger on Flickr. She uses a 50/1.4 on a crop body wide open for almost every shot.</p>

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<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18025931-lg.jpg" alt="" width="700" height="525" /><br>

Olympus E-M5, M.Zuiko 14-42mm R II</p>

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I would hope there was some way to

turn it off on lenses without a switch. It

doesn't seem reasonable to force you

to use the lens's IS. Hopefully Olympus

is addressing this issue. And if they

already have, they should let us know.

<p>I have heard it said that OM-D bodies will automatically switch off the IS on Lumix lenses. I've been searching for confirmation of this with conflicting results. Can anyone confirm or refute this? Does the lens IS need to be switched off, or does the camera automatically do it? I have two Lumix lenses with Mega O.I.S. but with no switch to turn it off, and I can't tell if it's being switched off or not.</p>