kitsu_2000

Hi, I'd like to close/delete my account as well. Thank you.

<p>Well after trying Costco again, I sent a few to Apple directly uploaded out of Aperture. Presto . . . images look great! No artifacts. Going to try sending some more to Apple, but if what I see so far is any indication then I have found a possible solution.</p>

<p>Curious how other export their files from apple aperture out to a lab to be uploaded for printing? I'm having some issues where artifacts are showing up in the print itself and not matching what I see on the screen. I export as JPEG in original size with maximum quality setting and 240 DPI using source profile as color profile selected. This is driving me nuts as I'm seeing some artifacts in wedding veil from a recent wedding from Walgreens, Costco, and to a lesser extent, the local photo lab/photography shop. And it's only a few, as 95% of files look fine. Thanks for any feedback.<br>

-Matt</p>

<p>Wedding done . . . much to edit but cursory look shows I ended up with 800 ISO as essentially my base ISO. A lot of flash needed and what I didn't realize . . . dang red eye!!!! Doh. I can edit no problem and it isn't persuasive but it makes sense. Dark night, pupils open up, hit with any kind of flash . . . red eye. I even used diffuser for some stuff. Will have to look closer and see if I notice/find any patterns in terms of how it happened. Next step . . . get the flash off the camera. I've used flash bracket before but found it really awkward with trying to get vertical shots. Might be time to upgrade to a better bracket than what I have.</p>

<p>So I was a little back and forth, oops! I have been to the site and there will be dappled light but it should be manageable due to the amount of canopy coverage provided by the redwoods. I.E. a lot of canopy and not a lot of shafts of light to have to worry about. I won't have chance to walk around and practice, but should be able to be there for the rehearsal to practice with that.<br>

I will not be using gels, haven't learned that process yet. The fill flash is the big question due to some of the blurry shots I got at the last venue where I had some outdoor photos to do. I tried to 'drag the shutter' at that event by using fill flash and 1/40 to 1/50 or so shutter speed but got some blurry shots, even when the group was standing still. Maybe operator error, although the indoor dragging the shutter shots were much sharper. I think I'm trying to figure out how to fill flash outside while using a high enough shutter speed to freeze the action combined with avoiding the 'black cave' look as the light fades. <br>

The ceremony is about 3pm so fill flash at that time should be fine. It's the reception toward 5pm as the light fades that has me the most nervous. It will get darker quicker under the trees because it is such a thick forest setting.<br>

I will have an assistant, but not for the whole event. I'm reluctant to start using reflectors outdoors because a flash loses so much power trying to bounce like that? Something I may need to work on. Thanks for the helpful words/links!<br>

-Matt</p>

<p>Okay, first post as a new member to the website. I have a wedding coming up that will be held in the forest. Ceremony will be approx 3pm with afternoon sun in and out of the trees. I am looking for a few words of advice/input. While I have done about 5 weddings now, none like this. I have done some outdoor receptions/group shots, but not a whole event. I plan not to be using flash diffuser at all. <br>

I found at the last wedding I did I ran into issue with using aperture priority outside as light got lower and lower with late afternoon/evening time (no direct sun prior to going down). I ended up with a few blurred small group (3-6 people) shots (around 1/40th or so) because the camera would meter ambient too slow and the flash wasn't enough to freeze action. Even when standing within 5-10 feet. I have seen on the forums here a few threads recommending/talking about Tv mode to maintain a fast enough shutter to keep people in sharp focus outdoors. It must be that using 1/40 or so indoors works better because the flash has more effect in terms of getting more shots in focus by freezing action with being able to bounce it and have more light 'available' so to speak vs outdoors? In other words, confining the flash indoors gives it more power (either with diffuser/bouncing/straight on/ etc)?<br>

The reception after the ceremony will be as light lowers and dusk will settle. I figure I will need to be upping my iso and lowering my f/stop and let go of worrying about controlling depth of field as the light becomes night. I am hoping to use fill flash to help with shadow prior to it becoming dark, but don't want it to keep from maintaing non-blury shots. It's in the Redwoods and the canopy will keep it fairly dark and consistent, i.e. fewer hot spots, or shafts of light. Maybe, I'm just over-thinking the whole thing! I will have Canon 7d, 30d and 40d available with 550 and 580II flash. primary lens' will be 70-200 2.8 IS, 17-55 2.8 IS and the 50 1.4 prime. Thanks for any thoughts/words of wisdom.<br>

-Matt</p>