LenMarriott
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Posts posted by LenMarriott
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<p>Erkan, Google is your friend.<a href="http://www.carambis.com/lp/driver_updater3.html?cs_aff=ndtip"> http://www.carambis.com/lp/driver_updater3.html?cs_aff=ndtip </a> Not sure if there is a cost to this. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Rick, A little gem to be sure. Many may disagree with most of his posts but I think you've just proved KR's point that <a href="http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/notcamera.htm">'Your Camera Doesn't Matter'</a>. Great photographs start in the area behind the viewfinder. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Justin, Follow up: Joe provided a clue. At 1\4 second you are likely to be picking up some colour distortion from any ambient light. Try the same shot with the ambient lighting shut off. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Justin, Try the above or a little Photoshop Hanky Panky. Sometimes I give up & <a href="/photo/8471392">convert to B&W.</a> :-) Best, LM.</p><div>
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<p>Dave, Any change in operating system? ie: going from Windows XP to Windows 7 or 8? Bad cable? Try another? Reinstall scanner software? Sorry, I'm reaching but trying to be helpful. Let us know how\if you resolve this. Could be helpful to someone else. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Donald, I noticed the same thing, in my case, Vuescan vs Epson V500 scanner bundled software. You can see a previous related discussion <a href="/digital-darkroom-forum/00b5uA">here.</a> I originally got the Vuescan as it was superior (more user friendly) than the bundled software that came with my other scanner, a Minolta Dimage Scan Dual ll. I then tried it on my newer scanner, the V500, that I bought to serve my MF scanning needs. Vuescan is still user friendly with my V500 but I noticed a sharpness difference in my scans when compared to the Epson bundled software. I think it is simply that the Epson software may be applying some sharpening to the image where the Vuescan does not. I now give precedence to the Epson bundled software. Sold my Minolta Scan Dual ll as I now find the V500 does a good enough job for me with my 35mm negs. Hope you find this helpful. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Ronan, Get a free copy of<a href="http://www.hamrick.com/index2.html?utm_expid=9032507-17.YsiW946gRLq5aPQIXrZryA.1&utm_referrer=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.ca%2Furl%3Fsa%3Dt%26rct%3Dj%26q%3D%26esrc%3Ds%26source%3Dweb%26cd%3D1%26ved%3D0CC0QFjAA%26url%3Dhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.hamrick.com%252F%26ei%3DaYHpUfPEKNTsqQH-34HwCw%26usg%3DAFQjCNF4namQGzg-Jbd8ZS9F_ikV1QEy7g%26bvm%3Dbv.49478099%2Cd.aWM"> Vuescan </a>to see whether it's fast enough for you. If you like it you can buy it. If not you are no further behind than you are now. I have both Vuescan & Epson software & don't have the problems you are having. Could be in the setup. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Ronan, I'm basically in agreement with Les. I own and have used a V500 for scanning 6x6 negatives though I've never made prints that large. I'm sure I'd be pleased with the results though they may not satisfy those with ultra high expectations. My bet is that for the price you'll be satisfied too. Come back & let us know how you made out. Many here could benefit from your experience. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Christopher, As Charles suggested, check the<a href="http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php?Film=TMax+P3200&Developer=TMax+Dev&mdc=Search&TempUnits=F"> Massive Development Chart.</a> The lowest ISO indicated is for ISO 400 but that may get you close enough, especially if you drop the developing time a tad. (20% or so) It will certainly be closer than if you processed it at box speed. Keep us posted on your progress and results. Many here could benefit from your experience. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Sarah, Unless I missed it in the above comments another advantage of sunset photos over sunrise photos is the dew factor. It is more likely to be dewy or damp in the mornings as opposed to sunsets which, unless it has rained during the day, will likely provide a drier environment. Especially important if the group must be seated on the ground or log or bench or whatever. Don't forget to post some of your results. Check out <a href="http://montezucker.com/">this guy's site</a>. He could get great outdoor portraits no matter the time of day. Best, LM. </p>
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<p>Laura, Re:weddings, avoid for the time being as suggested above. Re: Anniversary photos: If you are lucky you'll have an overcast but dry day. Low contrast light is what you need in the absence of any auxiliary lighting or light modifying equipment. If the day is clear & sunny try to keep people in the shade. (reduces tendency of subjects to squint) Avoid blotchy sunlight filtering through leaves. (produces a mottled look to the shots) Good luck. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Rafal, I've no personal experience with this lens but I think I read somewhere that it was a favourite of<a href="http://www.thewareaglereader.com/2012/03/celebrated-playboy-photographer-loved-first-visit-to-auburn-in-1981/#.UcrzgNjNlqE"> Playboy Photographer David Chan. </a> Seems to have worked OK for him. :-) Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Ian, Your post hit a nerve with me. I use photoshop to selectively increase\decrease the saturation of any colour. I've no experience with NX2 so please forgive my not addressing your question exactly. Just throwing out an alternative here. Also please forgive the appearance of self promotion but <a href="/photo/17420662">I have a recent post</a> which addresses the problem of red over-saturation. Hope this helps. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Fred, This is your second year on PN and this is your first post? You are indeed testing the waters cautiously. And you are pursuing street photography? What a brave individual! Judging from the teaser you've posted here I'm thinking your chances of success in this area are really good. How about posting some more of your work as I'm betting you will have many enthusiastic followers here. It will also stir up some feedback for you and give you a feeling for how other enthusiasts feel about your offerings. Win-win, I say! With this one you've captured your subject's contemplative mood nicely. Was the spot lighting effect present noticed as such by you at the time or simply great luck? Very well done. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>David, In the end, at least for amateurs like me, we are the only ones we have to satisfy. I've taken many sports shots with the P&S that fill that criteria. (and many, many more that don't) :-) Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Wayne, Couldn't agree more, though it might feel OK to have 'Leica' or 'f1.2' on the lens. :-) Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Starvy, Not sure about 'expert' hands but my A540 has done well by me. Some <a href="/gallery/tag-search/search?query_string=a540">very satisfying images</a> have been produced by it, albeit at sizes smaller than 12"x18". Best, LM.</p>
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<p>I guess I should upload the photo. Best, LM.</p><div></div>
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<p>I took this one last night at my #2 grandson's soccer game. Using a Canon Powershot A540 on 'A'perture mode, 1\400 sec @ f2.6 and ISO 400 in Continuous shooting mode (about 2-3 frames per second) Now I'm not saying this is award winning sports photography but would anyone doubt that the parents of any kid pictured here would love a copy for their family album? It's not the 'end all, be all' but don't sell the lowly P&S short. Just sayin'! Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Vlad, "....birthday parties at home...."? If this is really true then the world is surely going nuts! Best find another hobby! Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Dieter, Good of you to weigh in here. Thanks for the link. I already had it in my bookmarks but you've reminded me to go visit there more often. As I said before, in going from a dated P&S to a D7100 any concerns about image quality are really trivial. Best, LM.</p>
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<p>Elliot, James, Thanks guys. Since I rarely print larger than 12"x18" anyway my concerns now seem trivial. Better to concentrate on good compositions I guess as even my 7 year old 6mp Canon A540 has given me some very satisfying results in the past. Best, LM.</p>
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