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LenMarriott

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Posts posted by LenMarriott

  1. <p>Jake, Put them in your folder. Don't forget the 'Details' for the gear heads out here. Looks like you have another outlet for your talents. Great shots. Was waiting for the call on the second & third shots. ( 'Strike!') ? You've restored my interest in a 100-400 though I shoot Nikon. Best, LM.</p>
  2. <p>Mike, Yah, I would have expected that @ 1\45 sec. & resting on a fence post whether VR is ON or OFF the shot should exhibit little or no unsharpness due to camera motion. Hand held, or with much longer shutter speeds the scenario would likely be different. Could indeed be subject motion. Best, LM.</p>
  3. <p>Mike, I still use the old rule of thumb which states you should use the reciprocal of the focal length for the minimum hand holdable shutter speed. IE: 200 mm = 1\200 sec, 55mm = 1\60 sec. With VR this gives me 2 or 3 stops of wiggle room. Some of us are more shaky than others so if one is very steady of hand this rule can be relaxed to suit. Best, LM.</p>
  4. <p>Brett, I own the combo you are using. Since these modern DSLRs do just fine <a href="/photo/17736925">at higher ISOs</a> I would trade a higher ISO with it's minor increase in noise levels for a sharper photo. In this case ISO 800 would have allowed a shutter speed of 1\180 sec., likely enough to have eliminated the camera shake. (I too believe it's camera shake) Best, LM.</p>
  5. <p>Nick, you aren't referring to the hats the catchers wear are you? You know, the ones with the peaks at the back! :-) Being Canadian my first inclination is to line up patiently at the Nikon service desk and say "Sorry, sorry" ! :-) (now I'll be getting hate mail from my fellow citizens) Best, LM.</p>
  6. <p>Problem: I raised the flash head on my D5100 to obtain some fill with an outdoor subject. Flash refused to operate MOST times.<br>

    Cause: When the camera was raised to eye level the brim of my Tilley hat was moving the flash head enough to keep it from operating.<br>

    Solution: Raise the brim or remove the hat.<br>

    Love it when the solution is that simple. Best, LM.</p>

  7. <p>Marc, That's the photo I was talking about. Funny how time distorts the memory. I would have sworn she was lit by a single candle but the image actually shows two. Main light & fill? :-) The colours have held up amazingly well. Must have been because the slide was still bound in the pages of the magazine and thus no light to cause it to fade. A dry environment would also have helped. I owe you big time. Hope I get the chance to reciprocate. Or perhaps an opportunity to 'pay it forward' will present itself to me. You've made my day! Thanks tons. Best, Len Marriott</p>
  8. <p>Marc, Unbelievable! That slide will fill a gap that has existed for me since I started with Photo.net many years ago. <a href="/photodb/user?user_id=312444">See my bio. </a> (unchanged since originally posted) Many, many thanks in advance. Can't wait to see it. Best, LM.</p>
  9. <p>Marc, Thanks for posting these most interesting articles, many of which I read (obsessively poured over) at the the time they were first published. Great trip down memory lane. What I would be most interested in is the article from a 1957 photo magazine (not sure which one) which introduced the worlds fastest colour film of the day, Super Anscochrome 100, by inserting between the pages a duplicate slide of Venetia Stevens, model & actress, sitting at a table & lit by a single candle. It was the article and slide that really lit a fire under my interest in photography. Would dearly love a copy of that shot. Best, LM.</p>
  10. <p>Andrew, I'm in much the same situation as you though my PC (Dell 4700 & Windows XP) is still performing OK. I can't answer your question though I would be interested in your experience with \ reaction to your new acquisition. I don't currently run Lightroom but would be open to getting it if the XPS 8700 turns out to be my next computer. Come back & give us an update when you get the new one. I'll activate 'Notify me of Responses' so as not to miss your update. Good luck! LM.</p>
  11. <p>Sarah, Elliot nudged my consciousness with his suggestion. I have a D5100 (same sensor as the D7000) and recently took <a href="/photo/17736925">this photo</a>, my one and only bird photo. (so take this advice with a gain of salt) It's a 100% crop of an original 16mpx file. Not so good if you are making bigger enlargements (8x10 and above) but more than adequate for the net. I used a 55-200mm kit lens on a dull (ISO 1600) day. Up to 14" prints? I don't think so. Some of the P&S cameras, under bright light, might satisfy him too. Only shallow pockets prevent me from going the 500mm plus extenders route. So I guess this is as good as I'll be expecting for a while. Best, LM.</p>
  12. <p>Street, I think you are busted! You are receiving a sly look from the woman on the left. No matter, it's a great technique that I used over 50 years ago by placing a Leica M2 on my table to steady the longish exposure required with ISO 125 film. I've used this technique several times since then. Best, LM.</p><div>00cVFy-547001784.jpg.a03b569b624f739bb2e84b913bd40eaa.jpg</div>
  13. <p>Stephanie, Disclaimer: I'm a long time photographer but with only a few months experience with a D5100 & kit 55-200mm f5.6 and only one hockey game under my belt. So take my advice with a grain of salt. I doubt you have an equipment malfunction problem. I think it's the way you're using it. My biggest problem with focusing issues is because I apparently haven't yet trained myself to keep the shutter at half press after selecting a point of focus. Then, when I release the shutter, I'm actually focused on something other than my intended subject. I think this may be your problem too. Note the lettering behind the goalie: SHARP! Same as in some of my hockey shots. Don't be afraid to let your ISO go to 6400 with slower lenses though I see you actually had used an f2. (f2.8?) Better to have a sharp grainy (noisy) shot than a blurry one without grain. (my philosophy) I tried to keep my shutter speed above 1\500 @ f5.6 and the only way to do that was to allow the ISO to go to 6400. <a href="/photodb/folder?folder_id=1064345">Check them out. </a> I also added some (+2\3 stop) exposure compensation to allow for the effect of the brightness of the ice surface. Your shots can be improved (to my eye) with some post manipulation. Try it again! I also agree with Stephen, more light is better but good luck getting the arena to co-operate. :-) Best, LM.</p><div>00cSh7-546395684.jpg.18afd6dfe8095e92f2ce46f3aefb48bb.jpg</div>
  14. <p>Chad, I owned a Yashica A a while ago and in sub zero weather, near -25F, the focusing knob got stiff & wouldn't allow me to focus. I suspect it was the lubricant that caused the problem as it was OK when returned to room temperatures. If forced, something may break that can't easily or cheaply be repaired. Keep it warm & post some photos. Best, LM.</p>
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