Jump to content

b_friedman

Members
  • Posts

    95
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by b_friedman

  1. I don't believe the beep sounds in predictive AF mode, otherwise you might get a super annoying series of beeps as it loses and regains focus with a moving subject.

     

    I know when I first got my Rebel 2000 I turned the beep off on day 2.

     

    The 2000 does not have illuminated focus points but the lcd focus point indicator does (IIRC) continue to indicate which focus point is currently being used. My EOS 3 has no indication (i.e. focus point illumination) in AI-Servo which I find mildly annoying. What is worse is if ECF is on it picks the point you are looking at when you first half press the shutter and doesn't change points to follow a moving subject. This makes ECF pretty much worthless for sports and action, mores the pity.

  2. 3. Personally I would hate this.

     

    4. Both the 540 and 550 give you this in the LCD

     

    5. Would be great

     

    7. I would settle for a CF settable safey aperture shift if the shutter speed drops too low (at least in Av).

     

    12. Most models have a BP that uses AA's. Heck I even have one for my old Rebel 2000 and it was only $30 plus it had a portrait orientation shutter release :)

     

    6&13 I think my EOS 3 is heavy enough as is....

     

    Some good thoughts there though. Personally all I want is a catch to keep the stupid Palm Door from flying open every time put my palm on it...

  3. I have seen used Elan II's go on that big auction site for right around 200 bucks. KEH even has them for $230. The only A2's they have under 300 are listed as Bargain condition. Why would anyone buy a new Rebel ti when for the same price you can have an elan II? Beats me...

     

    My college roomate had an Elan II and it was a great camera with a realy good feel in your hand.

     

    I think the best starter kit right now is an Elan II with 50 1.8 for ~270 bucks. Talk about a deal.

     

    Don't get me wrong, the A2 is a great camera and it feels like a professional camera. However it is heavier and has some well known 'aging/QCD' issues.

  4. Third option just for schnucks: 100-300 4.5-5.6 USM. FTM, lighter than either of the other options, non-rotating front element. Quite sharp from 100-200, especially stopped down. Ok to 300, really needs to be stopped down to at least 8 to be acceptable.

     

    And half the price of the 75-300 IS. Your best option if weight and money are a serious issue.

     

    However if you have the money I would go for the 70-200 4. Or even look at Sigma's 70-200 2.8 HSM, it is in roughly the same price bracket.

  5. I bought a 100-300 USM for 165 from www.keh.com. You might check them out. The AF is very fast though at the long end it does go a little soft.

     

    I just shot my brother's graduation for my folks from a seat in the auditorium 80 feet out. I used a monopod, 540 EZ, and ISO 400 speed film and the results were 'ok'. Not spectacular but it was rather dark in there. The 540 EZ was pretty much firing at full power and could just barely reach (recharge took a long time, probably 15 seconds, though I later discovered my AA's were almost dead).

     

    If you are going to try to shoot sports at all this is the lens to get in this price range as it is an internal-focusing lens (and USM) and as such is quite quick. I am really enjoying mine.

  6. Fred Miranda has promised an upcoming review comparing this lens with a couple of others. You might wait a week or so and see what he will say. www.fredmiranda.com. There is also a new reviews section there that may be helpful.

     

    Just found the specific forum topic. Looks like he will be comparing it against the 16-35 so that may not help you too much (not to mention Michael R. has already done the same thing).

     

    http://www.fredmiranda.com/forum/topic/32175

  7. Before i bought my film scanner I spent a good deal of time attempting to find a work-around to this very problem. Unfortunately I was unable to find one. The good news is the Minolta Dimage III film scanner can be had for under $300. Or you can buy a flatbed scanner with negative adapter (like the Canon 3000F) for under $150, though you do sacrafice some resolution with the flatbed.

    Some flatbed scanner manufacturer's make an accessory transparency (i.e. film) adapter, unfortunately Canon does not seem to be one of them.

  8. Let me add some wacky thoughts to the discussion:

     

    1)I just picked up a used EOS 3 on that big auction site for $620. I think it would have everything you would really want. If you don't like it and still want to go digital resell it for pretty much the same and move onto step 2.

     

    2)A used d30 runs ~800. Why not pick one up, try it for 3 months and you can resell for almost the same if if you don't like digital or decide you like digital but would rather have a 10d or 1d.

  9. I vote for 50 f1.8. I upgraded from my Rebel 2k's kit 28-80 to the 50 and wish I had done so years ago. This lens rocks! I use it for full body portraits and the bokeh with bright colors in the background looks like it was done by a master painter.

     

    My first roll back with this lens and I was blown away. I have yet to cease to be astonished by the razor sharpness of it.

     

    If you really must have a zoom, go with the 28-105. I have heard good things about it all over the internet. Try used at www.keh.com (other good used places too, they are just my favorite). You will be surprised what you can get in outstanding condition for ~1/2-3/4 what it would cost you new.

     

    Speaking of upgrades I just bought an EOS 3 and it should be here later this week. Gah but I am excited. Sorry, off topic enthusiasticating :)

  10. """"Last film camera I'll ever buy...I gather by this sentence that you resoluve this "what to buy" question more by following fashion trends rather than sticking with what you like...""""

     

    This sentence makes no sense to me. How is digital a fashion trend? If I buy the 3 I reckon I'll get 20 years out of it. When I bought the rebel I knew if I stuck with photography I would have to upgrade at least once more. Since then digital has sprung up as viable for the 'enthusiast' and I reckon my main shooting will switch to that as soon as I can get a camera that meets my needs at a price I can afford. I'll always also shoot film, especially B&W.

  11. If the 10D hits $1000, where will the d30/d60 be? Spending 750 on a d30 might smart in 12 months. Not really the right way to look at it I guess...

     

    I'm not sure I don't want to hold out till I can get either a 1d or a 3 digital equivalent for ~1500-2000. It will be a couple years though.

     

    Scanning and de-dusting/scratching has just gotten really really old though.

     

    For prints 8x10 and under, what does the 70-200 4L really get me that the 100-300 doesn't? A stop or so but less reach. Similar AF speed.

     

    I think if I want Wide Angle I'd pick up a 24 2.8 or similar prime or two, not an uber expensive L zoom. Lot more bang for the buck and a lot less heft.

  12. So after 3 years of really learning a bunch and getting really into

    photography I think it is time to upgrade from my venerable and

    humble Rebel 2000 (great beginner's camera, I highly recommend it).

     

    I have a budget in the neighborhood of 600 bucks, and I have no

    problems buying used. I know I want to go digital as soon it is

    feasible because scanning on my Minolta Dimage III has become a real

    drag. However I really want a bump up in camera features,

    particularly AF speed and FPS.

     

    So I can buy a used EOS 3 now and get a top notch camera that will

    for sure be the last film camera I will ever buy, looking to buy a

    more feature rich digital body than the current D30-D60-10D in the

    next 2-3 years.

     

    Or I can buy a used D30 now, eliminate scanning from my workflow, put

    up with the AF and lower resolution, and in a few years upgrade to a

    better digital body. I don't know how I would feel about the 3 mp

    files after dealing with 60mb tiffs from my scanner. Plus film

    savings would be nice, though at only $5 per roll including Process-

    Only at Sam's I'm not really getting killed on film. I shoot about

    10 rolls a month, and spend about 30-40 hours a month in front of the

    scanner.

     

    Alternatively I could buy an Elan II for $200 (!!), get a nice lens

    with the remainder and in a few years go digital. I currently have a

    Canon 50 f1.8 II and a 100-300 4.5-5.6 USM. I shoot mostly

    portraits, sports, and action. I have a 540EZ so lack of onboard

    flash isn't really an issue.

     

    I probably won't sell my Rebel+BP, or 28-80 as my wife has expressed

    an interest in using it to learn herself. I could conceivably sell

    my old crummy Promaster 100-400 4.5-6.7 and matching 1.7x

    teleconverter for ~$200 (talk about a SOFT combination...though it

    took me 2 years of learning to be dissatisfied), but my time frame

    for purchasing a new body is sooner than it would take to sell that.

    I am going on a trip the first week in June and would really like to

    have the new body for that.

     

    Thoughts, comments, or violent suggestions?

  13. I just got a used 100-300 from KEH in Excellent (I think it was) condition for $165. When the lens arrived I couldn't figure out why it wasn't listed as Like New. The lens is absoluteley scratch free. Of course KEH is known to be conservative in their grading. I haven't shot with it yet but why not look into it? The price is certainly attractive.
  14. Go for the 50 f1.8! I shot with a 28-80 (non-USM) for well over a year and was quite happy. However when I got the 50 f1.8 MKII and got my first roll back I could not believe my eyes how sharp and 'poppy' the pics were. And it is 70 bucks!! If you take care of your stuff the difference between the old style 50 with the metal lens mount or the 50 1.4 isn't NECESSARILY worth the extra money.

     

    Find an Elan body only (it should be a little cheaper without the lens) and then spring 70 bucks for the 50 1.8. You won't be disappointed.

  15. Friend of mine got me a Brownie Hawkeye Flash at an auction in

    Mississippi. It is the bakelite one with the plastic film winder

    knob.

     

    I cleaned the outside with alcohol to remove 40 years worth of grime,

    used glass cleaner to clean the lens, viewfinder, mirrors, lens

    window, etc.

     

    It had a problem though where the shutter would only fire if you

    pushed the shutter release in towards the body and then pushed it

    down. I took the film bracket off and filed about .5 mm off of the

    metal catch on the shutter. Now it works great.

     

    The funny thing was I got a kodak 120 film sample in the mail last

    week, but don't have a 120 film camera. However I found the 120 roll

    fits fine in the top of the Brownie. The camera came with a 620 take

    up spool so I am all set. Look forward to taking my first pictures

    with it this week.

     

    What sort of light levels should I look for with 100 speed

    transparency film in this thing? Bright sun? Open shade? I know

    this transparency film really had too narraw a latitude. I will

    probably get some 120 Tri-X next, depending on how this roll turns

    out.

×
×
  • Create New...