robert_monaghan

see http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg.tcl?msg_id=0001cr&topic_id=Medium%20Format%20Digest&category=Kowa&msg_id=0001cr&topic_id=Medium%20Format%20Digest&category=Kowa

for 85mm and 250mm lens ratings (or http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/kowafaq.html table )

basically, stunningly high performance, many scores of 80 and 85 lpmm centrally and 35-40+ lpmm on edges, comparable to zeiss hassy optics of that time, and quite a step up from bronica SQ and other lenses in similar magazine test reports and also at Chris Perez's site, viz:

http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/MF_testing.html

Unless you are using slow film (velvia, provia..) and good technique, you won't get the full capabilities from these lenses IMHO, but they are great performers against much pricier current competitors in subjective tests when used at optimal performance points etc.

sounds like lens needs a cleaning/lube/adjust; most camera repair shops will do this for a modest fee (like $25-35 US or so and up..).

The nikkor lenses for Bronica S/S2/EC are highly regarded, pro quality optics. I can't reliably tell them from similar shots against hasselblad, kowa, and rolleiflex, all of which I have and shoot.

for more info, see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronica.html and bronnotes.html for user views etc.

see also broncameratest.html for tips on testing cameras/lens etc.

for most prints, you are looking at a 25% greater enlargeability factor with 6x7 over 6x6/6x4.5; i.e., 6x6 cropped to circa 6x4.5cm for a rectangular print (some of us print squares too, but another story)

Slide projectors are fewer for 6x7, another issue too ;-)

in general, the bigger by 25% quality isn't a big issue until you get to larger print sizes, past 16x20" for 6x6 to 20x24" for 6x7cm, you may see some useful improvements. How many 20x24" have you done lately? ;-) me neither ;-) (source: west coast imaging Inc tables).

see http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/mf/hassyel.html and related

links mf/cameras.html and battery faq rmonagha/bronbattery.html

if is very cheap and easy to build a replacement battery pack, either using DIN plug from radio shack or remounting cell photo rechargeables or the like in place of pricey Varta packs etc. see notes at 1st URL

See http://people.smu.edu/rmonagha/bronfilters.html#homebrew

lots of low cost large size filter alternatives, including diffraction gratings and optical quality polarizer materials are in sheet form

from sources like edmund scientific (optic div etc.) and make low cost filters possible in larger sizes...

some surplus sources for colored filters too, cf surplus shed etc.

see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/budget.html and mf/value.html

also mf/gindex.html camera reviews and mf/cameras.html camera models

the real issue is how much will the total system cost, esp. how many lenses you need etc. Do you need leaf shutter lenses or not? see also

mf/nofix.html on cameras w/o parts support (7 years after last sale..)

You may be able to buy a rollei SLX/6K for $1000 US/$1500 Cdn, but

forget multiple lenses; ditto hassy 500c/m/elm; whereas you could buy a 3 lens kowa 6mm or kowa 66 (backs/polaroid) for that, but older SLR

so you might budget for a spare body ($250+ US) if that's a concern..

I believe the brass gear issue relates to the older classic bronicas prior to the Bronica S2a (steel gearing); soft brass gears were used to protect stripping rest of mechanics, but tended to wear out in heavy use. The classic bronicas are inexpensive relative to quality and esp. low cost nikkor medium format optics and backs - except polaroid backs are hard to find as the pros are keeping them ;-)

many medium format users use hand held meters including spot metering functions which can give superior results thanks to the human in the loop (vs. programmed computer guess)... HTH bobm

see http://www.tfb.com/oce/z55.htm model for sale, from my ETR pages at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronetr.html

125 to 250mm F/5.6 Zenzanon-E Variogon Zoom

construction - 14 groups, 17 elements

angle of view - 31 deg 12 min. to 16 deg. 24 min

apertures - f/5.6 - f/32

diaphragm - fully automatic

minimum focus - 2.5 meters (0.76m in macro-mode)

filter size - series 9a (screw-in)

size - 105mm x 213mm

weight - 1,650 grams

multicoating, macro-capability, built-in lens hood, depth of field preview lever, tripod socket...

Jos. Schneider GmbH and Co. West Germany and Bronica Co. Ltd design

70 to 140mm F/4.5 Zenzanon-E Variogon Zoom

construction - 13 groups, 15 elements

angle of view - 51 deg 18 min. to 28 deg. 48 min

apertures - f/4.5 - f/32

diaphragm - fully automatic

minimum focus - 1.8 meters (0.25m in macro-mode)

filter size - series 9a (screw-in)

size - 100mm x 159mm

weight - 1,500 grams

multicoating, macro-capability, built-in lens hood, depth of field preview lever, tripod socket...

Jos. Schneider GmbH and Co. West Germany and Bronica Co. Ltd design

at $2,500, not exactly a "give-away" in my book, but zooms are rare

hope this helps bobm

your lenses should work on any of the classic bronicas like S2, EC,

C, S, and so on. Probably the extension tubes and so on too. I suspect your back will work on some models prior to the EC/ECTL but

not on those later models, not sure about the rest of your unlisted

accessories. See http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html on various models and accessories and so on - esp. Bronica product guide...

let me know if you want to sell your dead bronica for parts, I have a used bronica for sale listing too... bobm

see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/hongkong.html Savings 40-60% on

New Grey Market PhotoGear - Buying in Japan, Seoul, Hong Kong,

Singapore, Grand Cayman - for more on grey market buys overseas etc.

<p>

A few US importer/distributors such as Mamiya USA and Bogen/Metz

control US registered trademarks. Even in these cases, U.S. customs

regulations evidently permit importing a personal camera, lens, back

etc. under sundry exemptions. Duties tend to run from 0 to about 6%

on most photo-items. Fees charged by shippers/custom brokers vary

widely ($6 to $150). But under these personal import exemptions, you

can send in personal use items - you just can't import lots of

multiple items for resale. You don't have to bring the goods thru

customs yourself - you can mail or have them mailed to you too. ;-)

<p>

Under Magnuson-Moss/FTC Fair Trade Regs, parts for repairs must be

made available for a certain period (nominally 5 to 7 years for camera

gear) on an equal basis within the USA. Third party or independent

repairers should be able to get any part that the factory repairers

can get - even the consumer can do so too (but there may be high setup

or minimum order requirements to discourage consumer repairers). An

importer may be able to refuse to repair anything in or out of

warranty, but doing so only hurts them. You can always find an

independent repairperson, usually one trained by the factory and

cheaper too!

<p>

Recently, certain Hong Kong major shops have declined to directly ship

certain trademarked goods, specifically Mamiya trademarked items, to

USA buyers only - a change from recent previous practices, it appears.

<p>

So I am looking for info on trans-shipping services in Hong Kong that

can trans-ship packages to the USA from Hong Kong. If anyone has a

resource or work-around they are willing to share, please email me at

rmonagha@post.smu.edu - Thanks! bobm

Actually, there are a surprising number of 35mm long-focus telephoto

lenses, bellows mount lenses (and lens heads), and adapters which can

be used on medium format cameras. Some dual format lenses exist too.

<p>

From Bronica S2/EC alone, we have these dual format 6x6 and 35mm

lenses:

<p>

Astro-Tachar (Ercona)

Meyer Optik (Tele-megor)

Novoflex

Omnitar (Birns and Sawyer)

Zoomar (macro-kilar, Kilfit)

<p>

The Novovflex are most familiar, esp. in their follow-focus mounts.

<p>

My homebrew lenses http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronhb.html

for medium format page describes the 500mm f/8 Samyang/Phoenix or

Cambron medium format (Phoenix/Cambron) lens for various 645 and 6x6

cameras. This lens is only $395, largely because it is a 35mm lens

which happens to have enough coverage to provide "surprisingly sharp"

coverage on 6x6 and 6x4.5cm per Keppler (Pop Photo Nov 1997 review).

<p>

The trick with this 35mm lens is that the rear mount unscrews easily,

making it easy to adapt to medium format cameras with longer lens

mounting distances than on most 35mm cameras. There are other long

focus (not compact or collapsed telephoto designs, but full length)

telephotos from 35mm which also have lots of coverage, and will work

on 6x6cm too. Any 35mm tele lenses with a long enough air space at the

rear of the lens gets my interest if the price is right ;-)

<p>

Of course, most of the T-mount eyepiece based microscope and

telescope adapters will also work, a reverse T-mount adapter makes it

easier to build a reverse T-mount body cap adapter on med fmt; the

trick here is adjusting eyepiece focusing point for longer med fmt use

<p>

Similarly, most of the bellows mount and macro bellows mount lenses

from 35mm that are longer than your medium format camera's lens

registration distance will also mount. Enlarging lenses also work if

in the 100mm and 135mm range or above (on S2a, less on other mounts).

<p>

Again, most of these tele and macro lenses have lots of coverage,

especially stopped down, although the edge quality is less than the

center, it often is acceptable for the low price of a simple adapter

to use that lens (e.g., bodycap mount). Also, since med fmt needs less

enlargement, so-so lenses and adapters on 35mm seem to produce better

results on medium format than on the smaller 35mm image etc.

<p>

Personally, I think the most useful and interesting and handy 35mm

optics are the front-of-the-lens adapters, especially if you have a

medium format camera with a fixed normal lens! While the quality is

less than a prime medium format optic, the effects are often unique

and obtainable no other way, and the price is right and they're fun!

<p>

fisheye 0.18x converts 80mm to a 15mm equiv. circular 180 degree

fisheye, cost is only $50-100 US used

<p>

superwide 0.42x adapter converts 80mm to a 34mm superwide ($25-50 US)

<p>

very wide 0.6x adapter converts 80mm to a 48mm wide angle ($20-35 US)

<p>

wide 0.75x adapter converts 80mm to 60mm wide angle ($10-25 US)

<p>

short tele 1.25x adapter converts 80mm to a 100mm short tele ($10-25

US) - softening of low cost adapter is actually a plus in some photos

<p>

plus some wierd 220 degree coverage "bird's eye" adapters ($20 US)

using a reflective mirror and clear tube camera mount and shift mounts

<p>

monocular telephoto adapters (e.g. 350mm f/11) are afocal telephotos

that screw into your front-of-normal-lens filter ring, using filter

thread adapter, and provide (circular) telephoto 350mm effect for

$35-100+). There are other sizes and powers available; basically this

is one side of a pair of binoculars mounted on the front of your lens.

<p>

Anamorphic adapters (1:1.5x or 1:2x) compress panoramic scenes on

short teles so you get 6x9 (1:1.5x) or 6x12 (1:2x) compressed images

on film; use similar adapter on enlarger or slide project to recover

the 1:1.5 or 1:2 panoramic images; most of these adapters are from

Cinemascope cameras or Panavision models used in movie theatres.

($25-100+)

<p>

In other words, a fixed or single lens owning medium format user can

experiment with super-fisheye (15mm), ultrawide (35mm), very wide

(50mm) and wide (60mm) plus short tele (100mm) and longer tele (350mm

but some variable 150-750mm versions exist) for low $$. Surprise! ;-)

<p>

URLs-

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronhb.html homebrew lenses

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronadap.html (lens head 135mm f/4)

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronaux.html tele and wide adapters

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronfe.html fisheye and ultrawides

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/third/wierd.html Bird's eye 220 degrees

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/anamorphic.html anamorphic lenses

<p>

Since none of the above require any lens hacking other than finding

the right filter thread mounting adapter, they seem easier and more

fun for most users, and easier to experiment with. Again, these

adapters won't replace prime lenses, but if you are saving for that

Hassy fisheye, it may be awhile, and the 0.18x fisheye may be lots of

fun in the meantime. If you have a fixed lens or one lens med fmt

setup, these adapters can add some fun and tricks for low dollars...

<p>

regards to all - bobm

Hi Christian,

<p>

From my page on foreign discount camera sources, mainly Asian sources,

at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/hongkong.html, I have this post:

<p>

From: zhou ling lingzhou@eesn3.ews.uiuc.edu

[1] Re: Q: How to Mount 6X7 transparencies?

Date: Thu Aug 06 22:19:58 CDT 1998

<p>

Mamiya ProCabin 6x7 slide projector sells only $400 in Japan brand new

vs. 1200+ here in B&H.

(end post)...

<p>

see http://www.bhphotovideo.com/photo/med/projectors/mamprocab.html

for specs etc. of Mamiya procabin series

<p>

As far as I know, this is the lowest cost source for the lowest cost

6x7 current production projector available; perhaps you can email

Mr Zhou for more details?

<p>

You can also find many more links and details on medium format slide

projectors, both new and used, at my medium format slide projector

page at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronslideproj.html

<p>

As for used 6x6 projectors, the Rolleis and Leitz and Hasselblad ones

are expensive, but you can buy them from $25 up on EBAY (I have a dual

35mm/6x6 projector with both slide gates which works fine for $25!).

<p>

good luck - those large chromes are just stunning on screen ;-0)

<p>

and if you can't wait - check out my info page on square format

superslides at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronslideproj.html#super

4x4cm slides that fit in standard 35mm projectors but with twice the

film area and impact of regular 35mm slides - and they're square! ;-)

<p>

grins and regards to all - bobm

<p>

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/cameras.html med. fmt. camera library

Ed Lau asked about the Cambron medium format 500mm f/8 lenses for $399 plus $40 for sundry medium format mounts (6x4.5 and 6x6 focal plane SLRs mainly..). This lens is an outstanding bargain for a medium format 500mm f/8 lens, with reportedly decent to very good performance. The lens for medium format use was reviewed in Pop Photo in 11/97 (rated surprisingly sharp at the corners etc.) by H.Keppler.

The good news is that you may be able to save half of the cost by buying the 500mm f/8 lens ($100 new) yourself and mating it to a Dr. Zorkendorfer lens mount tube ($100 US) plus any desired mount adapters. These 500mm f/8 lenses were imported under a variety of names, including Cambron, from the Korean mfgers for circa $100 new.

<p>

Actually, you can do better than that, as I did, by buying the 500mm f/8 lens used (circa $50) for the multicoated version. The rear lens tube just screws off, adapter screws on, you are in business ;-)

for photo of dis-assembled 500mm f/8 lens, see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronbroc/bronlong2.jpg

<p>

Finally, you can really cut your costs if you make your own mount adapter from a camera body cap (or one of the above mount adapters?), epoxy, and some PVC pipe pieces (blacken with flat black paint on inside). For as little as $75, you can have a 500mm f/8 medium format lens - or spend $200 US to buy the lens and buy tubes from Dr. Zork.

<p>

For more details on homebrew medium format lens options, see my page at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronhb.html - Enjoy!! bobm

Greetings ;-) - You would seem to have two obvious options.

<p>

The easiest is to get a machinist to make a simple adapter to go from the Kiev lens mount to the desired bellows mount - hasselblad 1000f here.

<p>

Lacking a machinist, you could cheat, as I do, by mating a Kiev rear lens cap to a body cap (for bellows or body) with epoxy and drill out the center, producing a simple adapter at low cost. See my page on homebrew medium format lenses for more details at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronhb.html.

<p>

The bad news is that using a bellows and/or adapter will mount the lens beyond infinity focusing

distance - so you can't focus at infinity. Both the Kiev-88 and Hasselblad 1000f/1600f have about the same lens registration distance (circa 82mm as I recall).

<p>

Another approach I have seen hassy owners use is to get a local machinist to re-thread the Kiev lenses to exactly match the Hasselblad 1000f/1600f thread mount. This retains

infinity focus etc., but you lose use of these modified lenses on your old Kiev mount cameras.

<p>

I can provide a reference to someone who will remount Kiev88 lenses into hasselblad mounts, not only the older 1000f

and 1600f but the more recent 500c/m series mounts etc via my site at:

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/hassy.html top article/posting. As an example, he is offering Hasselblad 500c/m mount Kiev88 fisheye 30mm f3.5 180deg. lenses in Hasselblad mount for $900US etc.

<p>

Also, some recent reviews have pointed out that the Kiev lenses, which are often maligned for lens flare, are usually not the culprit, rather, it is the lack of light absorbing flocking in the bodies etc. For more info on this, see last post on http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/kiev88.html

<p>

In short, the Kiev lenses are interesting, low cost, med fmt optics..

Hi Y'all ;-)

<p>

I think you need to perform a static (tripod mounted) lens test when

you first get a lens in order to ensure that it is still in alignment

and working properly. I have found lenses on bad Adaptall-2 mounts that wouldn't close past f/11 to f/16 or f/22 - a quick fix - but probably the reason for the low sale price? ;-) Other lenses appear to have been dropped and mis-aligned, and so should be returned to dealer or seller etc. So you need to perform your own checks on new and esp. used lenses to be able to have confidence in their proper operation. As a side benefit, you should also discover the "sweet spots" or optimal f/stop for best performance for each lens you own. I have a page on some typical camera and (zoom/regular) lens testing tips at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/broncameratest.html plus many links...

<p>

The real value of MTF lens testing is when it is done by a consistent set of standards, preferably by the same person(s) - such as Chris Perez' et al's work at http://www.hevanet.com/cperez/testing.html In this case, you can identify potential bargains worth looking and testing on an individual basis. Stefan's point against using MTF lpmm figures for lenses is subject to the qualification that many med fmt lenses are 100% tested during assembly (hasselblad/zeiss) so these lenses are presumed to meet these standards - at least when new ;-)

<p>

I have found that a number of highly regarded and pricey older lenses (e.g., Leica) were great lenses at their introduction, but don't equal performance of later lens designs with better glasses and coatings. On the other hand, I found a late 28mm AIS no-name $15 r.p.m. used lens performs surprisingly well compared to old my 28mm nikkor on the same tripod/film/target setup. My point here is that it is the lens and not the name on it that determines its abilities. A $75 nikkor 75mm lens for Bronica S2A delivers images that I can't split from side by side tests run using my Kowa 6 or Hasselblad 80mm zeiss planar optics (costing ten times as much). Such lens testing may go a long way towards making those of us on a budget a lot happier with our budget choices, after seeing how well most med fmt lenses actually perform.

<p>

A recent post at (http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/kiev88.html) shows that the much maligned Kiev Ukrainian lenses are not the cause of the flare problems often reported or suspected, but rather the flare is due to lack of black flocking in the camera bodies and not the lenses.

In this case, a Mamiya 645 adapter and these inexpensive lenses provide a lot of capability to any photographer who goes beyond what "everybody knows" by actually testing out some lenses and seeing ;-)

<p>

But Stefan's point about the lens you have in your hand is the only one that counts is a good point, but one that justifies testing your own lens IMHO so all of us should be doing our own testing, right? ;-)

I have enjoyed this thread on single lens using photographers - quite neat;

very appropriate to Medium Format discussion, since so many of us are

limited to only a few lenses in our camera systems (e.g., Koni Omega RF)

or budget (e.g., my student budget ;-) so we have to make do with less ;-)

<p>

as a recovering lens-aholic (we're the _worst_ kind ;-) I have posted a

page titled "Curing Lens Envy" http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronlensenvy.html

a surprising 80% of contest winning photos were taken with the normal lens

and most of us realize the normal lens is often the best corrected,

fastest, and cheapest lens in our kit. So why are so many folks down on them?

<p>

Mr. Poag's point is well taken above; it is fairly amazing how much b*llsh*t

you have to forget in order to really start learning real photography again.

<p>

A good trick is to go on photo-safari trips with only one lens and make do.

For example, with a 24mm lens (on 35mm camera) I discovered I could do

portraits provided I worked hard at controlling distortion, and had a lot

of closeup capability I hadn't realized I had until forced to explore the

capabilities of the only lens I had with me, rather than reach in my bag

for the macrolens or the portrait 105mm or whatever ;-).

<p>

Many 35mm users are shocked to discover that a typical full-kit of med

fmt camera lenses equates to a 35mm, 55mm, and 135mm trio of lenses on

35mm; fisheyes and zooms probably aren't available, or affordable if they

even exist ;-). No zoom lenses!!! Now there's a case of culture shock! ;-)

<p>

On a number of medium format systems, I have opted or been forced (TLRs

;-) to adopt the 80% solution - namely, that you could get nearly 80% of

those contest winning photos by using just the normal lens.

<p>

Sometimes, I cheat by using closeup lenses, and my front-of-the-lens

adapters for fisheye and superwide effects at very low cost (under $50 each)

http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronfe.html and bronaux.html provide some

details ;-) These are really extensions of the normal lens, right ;-)???

<p>

In short, many folks can be happy and produce great photographs with just

the standard, under-rated normal lens - and these noted photographers cited

in this thread have helped prove it is the photographer, rather than the

lens or camera, that makes the picture ;-)

<p>

Too often, readers of MFD or similar lists would conclude that you can't

do good med fmt work unless you have the latest and most expensive lenses

and kits of accessories. I suspect that many of us would do even better

work photographically if we had fewer distractions and choices to make

-and in fact, this may be one of the features of medium format

photography that makes it so beneficial to newcomers as a new medium.

<p>

regards to all - bobm

The simplest approach would probably be to use a standard 35mm tilt/shift

bellows, such as some high end OEM (Nikon) or Spiratone Macrobel series-II,

if I remember correctly. These bellows provided some tilt/shift

capabilities of sorts at the front standard. You use the adapter to mount

the lens onto the bellows (or zoom extension tube?) as if it were a

preset nikon lens (no automation)

<p>

Since my Hassy to nikon adapter is only a 3/8ths inch thick metal ring,

you have to use something between the Nikon body and the lens to bring the

lenses into infinity focus (the hassy 500/2000 mount is 74.90mm lens mount

to film plane distance vs. nikon bayonet mount 46.50mm lens mount to film

plane (lens registration distances from W.J. Markerink's handy page at:

http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/mounts.htm So you have to use

something to provide the "missing" 74.90-46.50mm distance to get infinity

focus - and even more to do closeup work. That's where a bellows comes in...

<p>

By using a bellows, you also get extended closeup range too ;-)

<p>

A more interesting MF bellows might be the tilt/shift bellows for the older

Bronica S2/EC/S/C series - which provided tilt/shifts and continuous

focusing from infinity to closeup (limited tilt/shift at infinity,

though) for standard Bronica Nikkor/Zenzanon/Komura lenses which was

mostly used for closeup work to map focus/DOF to closeup subjects - but

also extended to infinity thanks to Bronica's unique focusing mount.

With the right adapter, you might be able to mount it on 35mm lens mounts.

See http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html for more details and photos...

<p>

Personally, I never saw much use for mounting hassy MF lenses on my

nikons - the 35mm lenses were quite good, and for closeup work the

micronikkors had plenty of coverage even with tilts/shifts, and my

bellows provided auto-diaphragm automation lost using the adapter.

<p>

A 4x5 or even 2x3 view camera with movements would be a lot cheaper than

hassy optics to get flexible movements and larger image size for most uses.

<p>

Why not use tilt/shift bellows with medium format lenses on nikon 35mm,

say, in place of expensive or unavailable nikon tilt/shift lenses? The

short answer is that most medium format lenses - even wide angles - are

normal to telephotos on 35mm, so you can't win ;-) A 28mm lens is the PC

lens of choice on Nikon 35mm, IMHO, but try to find a 28mm anything in

medium format, let alone at a reasonable price ;-)

<p>

However, there is also a set of tilt/shift lenses from Kalimex Corp. and

they also make a nikon and pentax M42 screwthread adapter for their

lenses ($35 US), so perhaps this will be of interest? Zorkendorfer might

also make a custom adapter, but it would be pricey, I'm sure. More pricey

is the $2500 used med. fmt super-angulon PCS lens for the Bronica

ETR/S/Si which is featured, thanks to Tom White, at my new pages on

bronica etr at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronetr.html - lens envy alert!

<p>

see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/links.html for links to Kalimex etc.

see http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronhb.html for homebrew lens hacking ideas

<p>

hope this provides some ideas and alternatives - good luck - bobm

Hi - You can use your current medium format normal lens to take both wide and tele photos, including fisheye views, until you can locate or afford that desired wide angle lens. Granting the prime and pricey original makers wide angle lenses will be better optically. But you will probably get a lot better results than you expect - I know I did!

<p>

While I was waiting to buy a 50mm wide angle for my Bronica S2A

I bought a set of series VIII (67mm) wide angle and telephoto series 8 adapters for under $50. These adapters screw into filter-ring of your regular normal lens, providing a moderate wide angle view (and short tele lens using a second adapter). Cost is low, weight is low, ease of use is high, and results were a lot better than I expected. A wide angle adapter by Schneider is currently on bid at ebay auction for under $15 sept 5 1997 (better hurry! ;-) www.ebay.com), so trying this option need not be costly or take a lot of time locating an adapter!

<p>

Another really surprising adapter was the fisheye adapter from Kenko (used on 35mm and a hasselblad 500c) for $99 new. This fisheye adapter screws into the front filter ring again, providing a super-wide fisheye image. Again, results will probably be better than you expect. Cost is a whole lot less than an Original Mfgers fisheye!!

<p>

I have put together a home page for Bronica classics (S S2 S2a C D EC) at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html - including a just posted view of *UNDERWATER* Bronica medium format housing ;-) I will try to create a set of photos this coming week showing the cameras and adapters and link to this home page so you can see what I mean -

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regards - bob monaghan

Hi Mike - See http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/bronica.html for general

information on Bronica accessories and compatibility for the classic

S, S2, S2a, C, D or Deluxe, and EC/TL cameras (including prism). I have seen some previous comments on the relative dimness of the older prism finders (a search in MFDigest might locate similar comments). The general answer was that these older prisms *were* quite a bit dimmer than the latest models. A related comment noted the newer copy-cat prisms (e.g. Kiev prisms for hasselblad, see http://www.dedal.cz/Ca_MF_EN.html#Accessories site) were also a good bit brighter than their older and more expensive originals. A recommendation was to compare your finder against a finder of the same mid-70s vintage. Chances are good you will be surprised at how dim both prisms are compared to the latest versions. Regards- bob monaghan