tasha_erickson

<p>To actually see the difference between strobe and incandescent: <a href="http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hotorstrobepics.html">http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hotorstrobepics.html</a> <br>

And here's some info on camera settings, and power usage of one vs. the other: <a href="http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hotorstrobe.html">http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hotorstrobe.html</a> (same site as above, just different page)<br>

And an article from here on photo.net: <a href="../photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00GmxD">http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00GmxD</a><br>

Hope these help! :)</p>

<p>I agree with Cynthia, get strobes. The modeling lights will let you see what the finished product will look like. Here's why I would NOT recommend continuous lighting for live subjects (or most products):<br /> 1) You're going to fry your subject. Tungsten, household bulbs, etc., are too hot. You will deal with sweat and extreme uncomfortableness, not just on your subject, but you as well.<br /> 2) Fluorescent bulbs are cooler, but are primarily green in color so you will need to do color correction that can be tricky, sometimes frustrating, or sometimes impossible.<br /> 3) Continuous lighting tends to be a weaker light also, so you will need your subject to be less mobile than with strobe, or you will get blurry photos more often. Yes, you can compensate for that with camera adjustments, but unless you have a meter you're talking about several practice shots. (Reminds me, invest in a light meter if you haven't already if you're SET on using continuous.) They will also need to be set closer to your subject (refer back to #1) OR you'll need lots more of them.<br /> Strobes really are worth your money, and with $1000 to spend you can get a decent-good set up pretty easily.</p>

<p>I agree with Alberta, start off with the Evaluative mode until you're comfortable and confident with it. After that you will probably be able to experiment and understand your other two settings with more success.<br>

M mode is my best friend. I consistently shoot club scenes with fog and flashing lights. The on-camera histogram is my other best friend. I keep my ISO, f-stop, and shutter speed the same nearly all night and adjust my SB600 (bounced indirectly from the ceiling with a Gary Fong Lightsphere) if I happen to need a little extra light. Usually though, I can work with the flashing lights to get the exposure I want. Here's an example:</p><div></div>

<p>What are you using the lights for? Portraits? Products? What exactly do you have so far? Being clear about your needs and situation will better help us help you. :)</p>

<p>Fresno, CA<br>

d) on par for "somewhat better (up by less than 50%)"</p>