brian_wallace5

<p>Despite the overall "ho-hum" response to the 6D, I will say that the two new points come in the areas where I find I wish there was a point on my 9-point bodies (60D, 5DII). </p>

<p>This makes sense based on my past experience with the Kenko Teleplus Pro DGX series. I own the Canon 2x II, the Kenko DGX 2X and the older DG version. My tests were with the Canon 70-200 f/4L USM Lens</p>

<ul>

<li>The DG version would disable autofocus on my 7D (but not my 1D Mark II as you'd expect)</li>

<li>The DGX version would not disable autofocus on my 7D, would report the correct aperture to the camera and the EXIF data was correct (f/8) but required me to set EC to -2</li>

<li>I've come to believe that the DGX teleconverters do not disable autofocus but when used with some lenses designed to be used with teleconverters they require EC to be set to 1 or 2 stops depending on whether it's a 1.4x or 2x converter. It almost seems as though the camera double counts the teleconverter and over compensates in metering. This does not seem to be the case when used with my Canon 135 f/2 however. </li>

<li>When I used the DGX versions with lenses that are not designed to be used with teleconverters (My 85mm f/1.8 + Kenko 1.4x is really quite good) no EC is required to get correct metering. </li>

</ul>

<p>My tests this morning with my 5D Mark III also showed no problem with autofocusing at f/8. I was using a Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 plus a 1.4x and 2x Kenko teleconverters. The number of points accessible to me was less than the regular 61 but the camera was able to autofocus quite accurately. The speed was not as good as just the lens itself. I also tried my Canon 135 f/2 with the Kenko 1.4x and it functioned exactly as you'd expect. </p>

<p>It will not work with the Canon 1.4x. <br>

A third-party extender (Tamron, Kenko) would mount and probably "work" depending on what you mean by work. Michael points out that the autofocus would be questionable at best.</p>

<p>Robin - very cool shot.<br>

Mine this week comes from a high school graduation ceremony. The upside of having a little rain during your ceremony is the rainbow that comes out. I also started to get serious about HDR and used HDRtist Pro to do pseudo-HDR on this image. <br>

5D Mk II, Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 HSM, ISO 1600, 120mm, f/8, 1/3200, -.33 EV, Processed with HDRtst Pro. </p><div></div>

<p>I would take a look at the reviews from the-digital-picture.com for the 50D and the 7D. In the 7D review there's a comparison to the 50D and in the 50D review a comparison to the 40D</p>

<p>http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-50D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx<br>

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-7D-Digital-SLR-Camera-Review.aspx</p>

Marcus is right about the Tamron 10-24. It will mount and work on both cameras, albeit with a limited 16-24mm on a full frame camera. I I

have some pictures and I'll try and find tomorrow

<p>Absolutely it changes - and it should. Any variable aperture lens will change the aperture as it zooms if the previous setting is too low for a given focal length. For example:<br>

On this lens if its zoomed to 35mm you can set the aperture to 4.0. As you zoom out though the camera will automatically change the aperture to 4.5, 5.0, and finally 5.6 as you zoom to 80mm. <br>

In short, there's nothing wrong with the lens if this is the behavior the buyer experienced. Now, if it's set to 5.6 it should not change at all. </p>

<p>Had some friends over with their six month old son and managed to catch this one...<br>

Canon 5D Mk II, Tamron 24-70 f2.8 VC USD, ISO 1600, 70mm, f/2.8, 1/60th, Sepia tone applied in Aperture</p><div></div>

<p>I personally am a fan of the Tamron 10-24 f/3.5-4.5 primarily for the range and price. Sharpness is sort of a moot point for real estate work as most photos are web bound where the difference in sharpness won't be seen. Plus, since you're dealing with wide angle shots you can stop down to f/8 and shoot. Plus, the Tamron works on APS-H and Full Frame cameras at 12 and 15mm respectively. I have a friend whose a realtor and is always borrowing my 10-24 for listing homes. </p>

<p>I'm not normally much for bird pictures (I appreciate, but I don't tend to take them) but this one was too good. My neighbor is an avid hunter and left last night to go turkey hunting. Looks like he should have stayed home as this fella rolled through our yards this morning and right up onto his deck. I grabbed my 5D II (too bad I loaned out my 7D), 2x extender, and 70-200mm lens and off I went. <br>

Technical: 5D Mk II, Sigma 70-200 f/2.8 OS HSM + Canon 2x Mk II Extender, ISO 1600, 400mm, f/8, 1/250th, Cloudy White Balance)</p><div></div>

<p>Local track and field championship qualifiers. Nice day (for distance runners) kind of cool but it didn't stop these hurdles.<br>

Canon 7D, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS HSM, 70mm, ISO 400, f/4.0, 1/1600th.</p><div></div>

<p>I've posted my initial review <a href="http://www.wallyandnay.net/Web/tech-blog/tamron-sp-24-70-f28-di-vc/">on my website</a> including an assessment of the lens' sharpness, VC capability, and bokeh. </p>

 

<p>The "real" shots on Flickr were all taken with VC on. So far I am really pleased with this lens. As always there are plenty of reports on the web that it's junk from the few who got bad copies but my mileage is showing me that this is a real winner. </p>

<p>Robert - love the track meet shot. <br>

The church I serve is in the middle of our Mystery Dinner Theatre and last night was opening night. Here's a photo of the cast of this production set in the 1870's. <br>

Canon 1D Mk II, Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC USD, 44mm, ISO 400, f5.6, 1/60th, Bounce Flash</p><div></div>

<p>I've also posted some <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/wallybarthman/sets/72157629944009261/">"real" pictures using this lens on Flickr</a></p>

<p>On a whim I purchased the Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC USD lens from Amazon. I got a chance today to do some real tests with it on a tripod in front of an ISO chart and posted the results. Short story: It's pretty sharp, even wide open. <br>

All these shots were taken using RAW, live view/manual focus, on a 7D (so no - the corner frame is about the mid-frame on a full frame camera. I've only posted my 50 and 70mm results but the results at 24 and 35 are coming and they are as good. I also posted some shots from my Tamron 17-50 f2.8 Non-VC lens for comparison. <br>

<a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/galleries/3563411657/albums/tamron-24-70-vc-usd-iso-shots-round-1">Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 VC USD Shots</a></p>

<div></div>

<p>I agree with Jay - for kids the hand-held camcorder is the best option. The built-in AF and the size is a huge advantage for getting footage of kids. </p>

<p>Of all the events in track there is none quite like the pole vault - "here, put your life on piece of fiberglass and take flight!" But that is part of why it is one of my favorite events to watch. <br /> Canon 7D, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS HSM + Canon 1.4x Extender, 280mm (cropped effective 357mm) ISO 800, f/4.5, 1/1600th</p><div></div>

<p>I've used this lens quite a bit for indoor sports with pretty good results. I usually start in Av mode and set it 2.0 (as others have said, this lens is soft at 1.4 so stop it down). I look to see what my metering is and adjust the ISO until I can get to 1/500th (or ISO 3200 - whichever comes first on my 7D)<br>

The AF speed isn't super but its usable. I prefer my 85 1.8 when I can use it. </p>

<p>Peter and Robert - great to see spring sports photos showing up, especially my personal favorite - track and field. <br>

No sports from me this week - just another appearance from my favorite subject: my son. <br>

Canon 1D Mk. II, EF 85mm 1.8 USM, ISO 200, f2.8, 1/500th</p><div></div>

<p>My strategy is to arrive before the event starts, set the camera into AV mode and set the aperture to wide open or stopped down to acceptable levels. Then shoot some test shots and see where most of them are coming out and adjust my ISO according until I can get 1/500th (at minimum 1/320 or in crisis mode 1/250th). Then I switch to manual. <br>

My other suggestion is to shoot in mRAW format. This gives you decent buffer performance but a lot better noise levels and post-production capability than JPEG.</p>

<p>I've owned both lenses and own a 1D Mk II. I switched to the 24-105 f/4L for a couple reasons (1) It's wider and my other body is a 7D (2) The 24-105 has USM which is important for me (3) It has IS. <br>

Personally the biggest advantage to the Tamron is that it's f/2.8 vs f/4. The 24-105 is a great lens BUT for your use I'd take the price advantage of the 28-75 and run with it. Heck, you could even get a second lens for the price difference between the two - say - an 85 1.8 or 100 2.0</p>

<p>Justin it seems your price range varies widely. Have you considered the Sigma 50-150 f2.8? On a crop frame its a better range and it's not as large as the 70-200 lenses. </p>

<p>My daughter likes to push her "babies" on the swings at the playground<br>

Info: 7D, Sigma 70-200 f2.8 OS HSM, ISO 400, 70mm, f/4, 1/2500</p><div></div>

<p>I leave my 70-200 f2.8 at home when it comes to basketball but in saying that there's a huge caveat: I own two bodies. For indoor sports I take my 50 1.4, 85 1.8, and 135 2.0 with me and mount one (usually the 50 1.4) on one body and either the 85 or 135 on my other body (Usually the 135 since it's an APS-H camera). <br>

If I had one body the 70-200 f2.8 would probably be my choice. I like the extra stop of the primes but without two bodies you're forced to choose the least common denominator. <br>

If price is the issue you could consider the Sigma 70-200 f2.8 HSM. There's a new version that has optical stabilization that you can get for about 1200 but the older one can be found for 500-700. Tamron also makes a 70-200 f2.8 but the AF performance isn't suitable for sports. <br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/wallybarthman/sets/72157629238961955/">Here's a set I took with my 7D/T2i combo </a></p>