stan_jelavic

<p>Hi George,<br>

If you are getting no flicker on your tv connected to the camera then I think it is pretty reasonable to assume that the aerial capture will have low flicker. It is still possible that the areal capture flicker will be worse than screeen projection since the video is more saturated. Although you are saying that you see no flicker at all, it is still possible that you have some but do not see it with fast moving frames. <br>

Yes, the aerial capture is more complex to set up and you will need to use an led lamp for that because the original projector lamp is just way too bright. Another advantage of the led lamp is that it runs cool so that you can run the film slower or frame by frame without danger of burning the film. <br>

As Rick suggested the easiest way of getting the aerial capture is by using a macro lens. I actually would not recommend reverse lens method because you ar pushing the lens limits and could get image distortions in the corners. But you never know. For that method you will need a reverse macro adapter.<br>

A better way in my opinion is to get the macro lens. I use a 100mm FD macro with extension tubes and a FD/EF adapter for my MarkII. FD macro lenses are still available and are very reasonable cost, whereas EF macro lenses are very expensive. If interesetd, let me know and I can send you the macro lens calculations for your camera.</p>

 

<p>Hi Betty,<br>

I used filmrenew and it seems to work ok.<br>

<a href="http://moviecraft.tripod.com/supplies.html">http://moviecraft.tripod.com/supplies.html</a><br>

See also: <a href="http://www.film-center.com/clean.html">http://www.film-center.com/clean.html</a><br>

Be careful not to put too much of chemical because it can cause spots on the film. Do two passes. First clean and libricate and then dry by using clean dry wipes (pro-line pro-pads or something similar).<br>

Hope this helps,<br>

Stan</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hi Betty,<br>

I have been using the Chinon Whisper projector with super 8mm film for the past few years and am happy with it. The projector has a switch to change from 8 to super 8. I do not have experience with the other models that you listed but possibly some other forum members may be able to help you here. The Chinon Whisper model does have 3 blades and motor speed control which will help you synchronize the projector and the camera and reduce flicker if you plan doing the transfer at full speed. The projector does not have sound, so if any of your super 8 reels have sound you will have to record it separately from video and then combine it back. The direct projection definitely requires more work and know how and it is covered in my book, but I suggest try the simple method first with the screen and then go from there.<br>

Regards,<br>

Stan</p>

<p>Hi Betty,<br>

Before you go ahead and purchase another projector I suggest you try the transfer with your existing super 8. You did not state which model you have. It is very important that the projector has variable speed which allows you to minimize flicker. I would try it with a white screen or wall first. Project your movie onto the wall or large white paper and record it with your sony camera which can be positioned above the projector. Set the speed of the projector for minimum flicker in the camera. This way you do not have to spend any extra money up front. Keep in mind though that this type of capture is not high quality. The colors will look washed out and the final video will not be in very sharp focus, but that is ok for some folks. BTW - the transfer boxes are a waste of money in my opinion, but maybe the newer ones are better from what I used a while back.<br>

Hope this helps,<br>

Stan </p>

Hi, I have my own setup with macro lenses and extenders. I used both Olympus Pen (1280x720) and Canon Mark II (1920x1080) cameras in video mode and direct capture (projector into camera) and did not see that big difference.

The final video is in avi format and the lower res video covers only 1/2 of my monitor screen but I blow it up by 2X to cover the whole screen. With HD I do not have to blow it up. I expected more pixel noise with the lower res due to the 2X magnification but did not see that much with bright scenes. With darker scenes, the difference is more pronounced. So that is another factor to consider, it is not only the quality of the original but also the pixel noise that you will be magnifying when watching the lower res final video. Not sure if the difference is worth the $$$ though.

<p>Hi Brent, I am not familiar with sound movies either, but what I gather from your input, the sound track got dubbed with music over the top of sound. If the movie has one sound track and both sounds are mixed there, then there is no easy way of separating them. You can possibly try some of the sound filters that can separate music from speech but this is not perfrect by any means. Another possibility may be getting the original music track that was recorded there (if that is at all possible). It has to be the same original music that you father used. Then you can try dubbing it over with phase reversed. Can you post a sample and I will look at it.</p>

<p>Can't argue with that :)</p>

<p>Thanks Ric,<br>

Projecting the film directly into camera gives superior quality. The light has to be replaced with the led array and a diffuser. I do it frame by frame and use a still camera to capture high def stills which I then combine into an avi file. This method is however very slow. I possibly could try your setup for flickerless fast transfer but then would have to use the camera in video mode which in my case gives somewhat lower resolution. In my case I would need to run a 3 blade at 60/3 = 20 fps. I actually have another fast transfer method. Remove the blades altogether and run at one third frame rate. I then break up the video into individual pics and then run the fiffdiff program that I wrote that removes the bad and duplicate frames. Then the frames are assembled back into avi. The drawback is the time required for postprocessing.<br>

Here is the picture of one of my setups for direct projection:<br>

<img src="http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5667638/Copy%20of%20P1070055.JPG" alt="" /> </p>

 

<p>I tried the transfer boxes and projection onto a white paper and did not like any of it. You definitely need a camera with manual settings for focus, exposure and shutter speed if you plan to go this way. The projector has to be variable speed with three blades. If flicker still present, you can try my method that removes most of it via postprocesing. The method is documented in my book (but I can share it here if there is interest):<br>

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/8mm-Film-Video-Transfer-Project/dp/1456548743/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1299211641&sr=8-1">http://www.amazon.com/8mm-Film-Video-Transfer-Project/dp/1456548743/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1299211641&sr=8-1</a><br>

I personally prefer a direct method by projecting directly into the camera. The quality, sharpness and colors are much better. This is also described in the book along with the equipment and mods required.<br>

Here is a sample tansfer:<br>

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/5667638/sample2.wmv</p>

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