bob_bioman

<p>I thought of a crazy idea...but maybe it will work???<br>

I have the plastic cap that fits over the ENG mount. I also have the plastic cap that fits over the D3100 body. What if I cut a hole in the center of each cap and glued the two caps tightly together back to back around the rims of each. <br>

Now if I twist the cap onto D3100 then put it over the ENG mount and twist that attached (glued on) ENG cap onto the ENG mount. Now I've got the camera mounted to the microscope and the light can pass through the holes I've cut in each cap. <br>

Any reason that won't work? Any tips on how to cut a perfect hole in the center of each plastic cap?</p>

<p>Wow, ingenius stuff! I'm afraid my skills and tools would be limited to screwing in an adapter however.<br>

I actually thought of my own pathetic imitation of the bellows system. My idea was to simply support the camera on a tripod above ENG1 (it's simply lower) supporting it very close to the ENG1 without touching it then simply wrapping aluminum foil around it. My main concern is that it would just be a matter of time before I knocked over the camera. I tend to get tunnel vision when concentrating resulting in clumsiness so I've learned I <em>must</em> make my lab setups idiot proof.<br>

I'm amazed you got the entire <em>functional</em> UFX system for so little money. (I'm amazed there are even functional set ups still in existance!) That was certainly the best way to go. As I said I used one briefly a very long time ago but of course I didn't have to assemble it - just use it. I still have the prints and they are still in very good condition. I also have slides that I still use.<br>

I'm actually disappointed that there isn't an ENG to F adapter nor even an ENG to C to F combo. Even if I could find a functional UFXII system finding and installing the correct projection lens then the UFX system sound daunting. It's one thing when it is brand new with all kinds of documentation and support as well as colleagues already familiar with the system. It's quite another essentially assembling antique technology with meager resources and limited understanding.<br>

Do you have a picture of your setup? Explaining how you put the whole thing together would make a great Youtube video IMO. At this point it's just curiosity. I know when I'm out of my depth. (which is the shallow end of the wading pool)</p>

<p>I have already taken pictures through the ENG port by simply resting the D3100 on top of it.<br>

It isn't essential that it is parfocal because I use live view and focus the microscope for the camera - I actually close the shutter to the binocular eyepiece when taking the picture. All I have to do is go to manual mode and set shutter speed by trial and error. I find 1/10 second is good but I can use a faster speed and then brighten the image afterwards too.<br>

I use the timer so when in live view with a delay I don't think vibration is a huge problem - at least not for the quality I need. Don't forget if I can get one good photo for every 10 bad ones it's fine - no film to pay for! Only 2 things to do - focus and set shutter speed.<br>

I find that the circle fills most of the picture and I usually crop it anyway so that isn't a big deal for me. keep in mind I don't need professional quality photographs. <br>

I'm familiar with the original film focusing system (external box) or at least I was when I used one briefly twenty years ago.<br>

Bottom line is I'm trying to get <em>decent</em> photos on a budget. Martin microscopes suggested I get a T mount adapter with a second tube adapter to use on the back photo mount (they called it a chimney mount) but it cost almost $500 and didn't include the projection eyepiece. It's just a T-mount mounted on to a tube that fits in the photo port chimney.<br>

Maybe I'll watch for an old video camera that is ENG mount compatible and take some analog videos. That might be affordable.<br>

Keeping in mind I have to go totally cheap (lets say under $200) any other ideas about how to adapt my Nikon camera to work with either mount?<br>

I purchased a new Swift M10LB-S digital microscope with grant money but I don't expect Nikon quality from this inexpensive system - we'll see.<br>

You've explained the situation much more clearly than the two customer service techs I've been in touch with at Nikon. I appreciate your thorough explanation. <br>

Thanks!<br>

Bob</p><div></div>

<p>I have a 25 year old Nikon Microphot SA microscope and a new Nikon D3100 camera. It was the very best of its day and better than almost anything now.</p>

<p>The microscope has two openings for photographic equipment as well as a binocular viewer.</p>

<p>The front photo opening (EG1) has some sort of bayonet mount that does not fit my Nikon camera.</p>

<p>The back opening (EG2) has a chimney mount which means it is just a wide tube with a thumb screw at the top that a smaller tube can fit in and be held in place by the thumb screw.</p>

<p>The front opening would be best because it actually has bayonet mount for some sort of photo equipment but neither Nikon nor anyone else knows what adapter would fit. Nikon referred me to Martinmicroscope.com and they don't know either. My camera (without lens of course) can sit on EG1 and takes beautiful pics but only a matter of time before it gets knocked off since it doesn't attach - just the metal of the front of the camera sitting on the stainless steel mount.<br>

If I cannot use the preferred front mount what would I use with a T-Mount to slide into the chimney mount in EG2?</p>

<p><img src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/_g2MUxoiEtBY/TWQ4c9Xw3CI/AAAAAAAAAJU/E_UgtkHnU2w/s144/rps20110222_123155.jpg" alt="" width="144" height="108" /><br>

Front (EG1) bayonet mount of unknown type</p>

<p><img src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_g2MUxoiEtBY/TWQ4clwTtqI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/E986gFjQZyk/s144/IMG_20110214_095210.jpg" alt="" width="144" height="108" /></p>