rob_garsson

<p>Thanks, I hadn't thought of the smartphone, I'm sure it is comparable to this range of cameras (and she already has a smartphone, so the price on that isn't really a worry).</p>

<p>I will certainly mention that to her and see what she thinks (it may be the case that she may just think its more fun to use a compact instead of her phone). In the meantime, any recs on these kinds of compacts?</p>

<p>Hey I'm doing some research for my sister to help her pick out a compact camera in the 100-200 range. The only two features that are a must for her are wifi and something that is small and easily pocketable. She probably also wants something thats easy to use. IQ isn't super important, although it might be nice to have something that shoots well in low light (and I understand this feature will be quite limited in this price range).<br>

The problem I'm having is that there are plenty of compacts that fit this description and they all appear to be fungible. Here's a couple I've been looking at:<br>

-Samsung DV150F<br>

-Canon Elph 530<br>

-Sony DSCWX220/B </p>

<p>Anyways, if anyone has any recommendations for a camera that fits this description it would be a big help.<br>

Thanks!</p>

<p>Andy - when you say the G16 is "faster in all aspects of operation", are you referring also to the ease of manual operation? (i.e. adjusting f/stop and shutter controls?)</p>

<p>Thanks for bringing the Nikon to my attention, I hadn't seen that one. It seems slightly larger than the G16 (and about a 100 more), so I think the G16 has an edge on it, for my tastes.</p>

<p>The RX100 is a sexy looking compact. I've been giving that one a look.</p>

<p>(I hope this is the right forum for this)</p>

<p>I’m currently in the market for a compact camera. I used to shoot a lot with my DSLR, but don’t have much time to shoot anymore and don’t like lugging around a big camera when I do. I’m looking for some help and advice on buying a decent compact. Right now I am eyeing the G16 and the S120 (although I’m by no means wedded to canon). Just wondering what users here thought of these cameras, or if they could recommend something comparable that might be better.</p>

<p>Here are a few things I’m looking for in a compact:</p>

<p>1) Price: I’d like to stay under 500.<br /> 2) Size: Something pocketable. I played with the G16 in store, and while its on the bigger end of what I’m looking for I think its workable. Anything bigger, however, is probably a no go (the G1X is crossed off my list for this reason)<br /> 3) Easy access to manual controls: I’ve played with some compacts where you have to dig deep in the menu to change f/stop and shutter, which is a bit annoying.<br /> 4) Decent high ISO capabilities. Doesn’t have to be amazing, but I’d like something I can use at night.<br>

5) The wider the focal range the better<br>

6) A few things that are nice but not essential: viewfinder, wifi, hotshoe, articulating screen</p>

<p>All feedback and advice is appreciated. Thanks!</p>

<p>(Also, do any compacts cameras come with a manual focus option? I have yet to see this.)</p>

<p>If I am using the instant back on the Holga will the images basically come out to be the size of a Holga negative? A 6x6 would have an image area of 36 cm, and the FUJI fp100c at 7.3x9.5 has an image area of 69.35, a not insignificant difference.</p>

<p>I was using polaroid generally to refer to any kind of instance film system, sorry for the confusion. And yeah, I would love to play around with impossible film, but its just too much money.</p>

<p>Chris, thanks. I used a friends Fuji instax 210 and liked it. That was near the top of my list.<br>

2 more questions: I found the fuji fp 100c film. What kind of cameras take this? I just saw you can get a polaroid back for a holga and this film works...I might be sold on this!<br>

Also, anyone have experience with the polaroid digital/instant system? <a href="http://www.amazon.com/FUJIFILM-FP-100C-Inches-Professional-Instant/dp/B0000ALLYO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1387098704&sr=8-3&keywords=fuji+instant">http://www.amazon.com/FUJIFILM-FP-100C-Inches-Professional-Instant/dp/B0000ALLYO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1387098704&sr=8-3&keywords=fuji+instant</a><br>

I just wonder if the prints will have that same look/feel to them...</p>

<p>Looking to get into this polaroid thing. The only things I'm looking for in a camera is something that produces a decent size print (which leaves out some of those mini models) and something I can get film for relatively cheap (which sadly rules out anything that would take impossible film). I also don't mind spending more up front on a camera if I save money on film in the long run.</p>

<p>Any help is appreciated, as I don't have a ton of time to research this on my own. Thanks =)</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies.<br>

Must have been the battery. Took it out of the trigger for a few minutes and then put it back in and now it works, although I suspect not for long. I figured because the light was still blinking on the trigger that the battery was fine but it seems that is not the case. Off to go buy some batteries I guess!</p>

<p>Thanks for the reply. That Intervalometer looks pretty nice, although I just stumbled across an inexpensive ebay <a href="http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-550D-T2i-450D-350D-RS-60E3-Timer-Remote-Cord-/200651153387?pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item2eb7bd9feb">alternative</a>. Looks roughly the same and hard to go wrong for 13 bucks. May pick up that cheap IR remote as well just to have. Thanks.</p>

<p>Just got a 60d and now need a shutter release as the one from my 40d is not compatible (why doesn't the 60d have that 3 pin connection? not sure what it's called...) The only real requirement I have is that it works at a reasonable distance and is able to work with long exposures, which is to say for a one minute exposure I don't need to hold the trigger down for a minute rather I just hold it for the first few seconds and then press again to end the exposure.</p>

<p>A completely wireless IR remote would be preferable but I hear it won't work at every angle, like if I'm behind the camera. So I guess don't mind something that has to plug in.</p>

<p>My YN RF-602 stopped working recently. Both the controller and receiver have power and are lighting up, they are on the same channel, but the controller will not trigger the receiver! I tried three different receivers out and none of them are catching the signal. They've always worked perfect for until now so it's kind of a bummer hopefully someone here knows of some kind of fix. Thanks =0</p>

<p>Wolf: Right-o on the file sizes. 4x5 negs at 2040dpi and 16bit come back as 450mb files. Luckily my computer can handle them pretty decently.</p>

<p>John A: In regards to the scanner and resolution while I believe what you're saying is true it still doesn't make logical sense to me, in that if the scanner can get 8000 dpi from a 1" wide neg wouldn't it be 4x that (32000 dpi) for a neg that is 4" wide? I'm sure I'm missing something. Oh well, I'm not terribly astute on the technical end, maybe knowing that 2k is the best I can get from this scanner for 4x5's is all I need to know.</p>

<p>Matt: What type of scanner do you use?</p>

<p>First off I'm kind of a noob when it comes to scanning. I've read from a few sources that when scanning negs (medium or 4x5) past 2000 dpi the differences in quality become imperceptible. Would you say that's generally true, even for large prints (say 20x30 or larger)?</p>

<p>I'm sure the answer depends on many factors, such as how good the original neg is and what type of scanner is being used. For the purposes of this conversation I can't afford drum scans and will likely be working with an older imacon 848. While I plan to run some tests of my own in the next few weeks I thought I'd pose this question here as it may influence the next camera I buy. Say working from a 6x7 neg is it worth scanning at 3000 dpi instead of 2000 if I take advantage of the resolution when printing big? Does it simply add noise when scanning past a certain resolution? I find it kind of curious that the imacon 848 has different resolutions per film size, from 8000dpi at 35mm and 2040dpi at 4x5 (http://www.hasselblad.se/media/af870cd4-d074-4eff-b81c-2cfd18fb6cac-Flextight_848_English.pdf). Is there a reason it can't scan the 4x5 at 8000 dpi? Are the numbers for 35mm bloated?</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Philip - does the lens have to be removed from the camera to cock the shutter?<br>

I currently use a 430 exII on my 40d but have never tried the high synch speed mode. I typically use it off camera with remote triggers and in manual mode so I don't think it would work for me.</p>

<p>I've searched a bit but have yet to find a specific answer to this question. Is it possible to mount a MF lens (say a leaf lens from M645 or Hassy) to an EOS body for the purpose of utilizing the higher sync speed? I'm leaning towards no because it doesn't seem like the EOS body would have any way to activate the lens shutter (as it stands for normal operation I assume the lens simply stays open and the shutter speed is determined by the focal plane shutter of the body). Am I wrong?</p>

<p>thanks, reassuring to hear such good news =)</p>

<p>For those with experience buying from KEH how good/bad are their BGN lenses? I once heard someone say to buy EX camera bodies but BGN lenses were ok, any truth to that? Looking at a Hassy outfit and don't want to break the bank too much. Thanks.</p>

<p>Ah thanks Jeff I see them there.</p>

<p>Paul: I'm not sure if this item is classified as a diopter. I'm not an expert but the diopter I'm familiar with on my Canon 40d allows you to make minute adjustments to the eyepiece to allow for proper focusing (is this also classified as magnifying the image? not sure...). Anyways, the item I'm talking about goes over the eyepiece and actually magnifies the image, much like you'd use a loupe with a 4x5, to nail your focus point.</p>

<p>From what I understand in the 7D you pay 700$ more for a faster frame rate, better performance at high ISO, and a better AF system. The 60D has the same sensor and is a functional camera, plus it has the articulated LCD which could be important for many users particularly if they are shooting video. Personally I couldn't justify spending that much more on a 7D for features that don't interest me too much, and if I could I think I would just bite the bullet and make the jump to the MK II. </p>

<p>Thanks for the responses, I think I'll look into one of the Giotto air blowers.</p>

<p>Not sure what to call this tool, but I was recently at a camera show and checked out an RZ67 which, on the attached viewfinder, had a little magnifier that slid over the eyepiece that I presume was to assist in precise focusing. I'm kicking myself now for not asking what the piece is called, so uh, yeah, what's that piece called and where can I get one? =0</p>

<p>Or how will I tell in my image? The spots I'm seeing in my image look kind of like grease spots. Here's a close up of a couple spots from a sky.<br>

<img src="http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w150/robjones91/SkyDust.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>I notice consistent spots in some similar shots of the same sky but overall haven't notice a constant trend of spots in my photography, they seem to be fickle about when they pop up.</p>

<p>I use a 40d, which everytime I turn off it does that vibrate, "clean sensor" thingy, which I'm hoping works well. I've never attempted any kind of deep clean on my sensor and am wondering if I should.</p>

<p>Pretty much what the topic says, I'm looking for an older, wide, manual focus lens for my EOS 40d. I'm thinking 17 or wider to make up for the crop factor. From what I understand the Canon FD lenses need an adapter to fit the EOS models. But I'm looking on KEH at non-canon lenses <a href="http://www.keh.com/Camera/format-35mm/system-Canon-Manual-Focus/category-Non-Mfg-Fixed-Focal-Length-Lenses?s=1&bcode=CA&ccode=8&cc=55898&r=WG&f">here</a>, would they be the same as the FD mount and need an adapter? The Vivitar 17 catches my eye because it's about what I'd like to spend. Any thoughts, or perhaps someone could point me in a better direction?</p>

<p>Also I primarily shoot from a tripod and use live view to focus, that shouldn't be a problem with any of these lenses right? Thanks.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for the input thus far, some knowledgeable folks here.</p>

<p>As expected there is a lot I don't know and probably won't understand until I put a lot of time in. I just opened up a file and tried both smart sharpen and high pass, honestly couldn't notice a difference at 100%, though I suppose it's something you have to train your eye to see (I don't have a printer at home where I work so I can't compare prints atm). Are there situations you would recommend one over the other? I don't shoot people much, a lot of cracked walls and things of that nature, so texture is very important to me, although I try to avoid that "overprocessed digital look".</p>

<p>I like the idea of sharpening in three stages (thanks Patrick), and will start integrating that into my workflow.</p>

<p>One addon question: If I am enlarging my digital files for print (10 mp files enlarged to roughly 20x30 or perhaps larger) would that change how I sharpen?</p>