paul_richardson9

<p>Dehuan, 50mb/s seems quite high for USB 2.. I checked the 7D spec and it only says 15..</p>

<p>I've not checked Bob's site, but will do so. DPreview seems great so far (thanks for the suggestion).</p>

<p>The 7D probably will be the way to go I think, as the camera was designed for speed. "Once the buffer is full the EOS 7D falls into a shooting 'rhythm' taking two shots in quick succession (almost normal frame rate) followed by a gap of approximately 0.45 sec."<br /> That's from DPreview, so it appears the camera might be able to do 2/3 FPS indefinitely.. I'd assume that it fires those 2 shots in way less than 0.55 seconds</p>

<p>Hey guys,<br /><br />I'm going to purchase a camera as a backup to my main 6D. I'm going to stick to Canon due to the investment in glass, but I'm just deciding what model to go with...<br /><br />Essentially I'm just after decent image quality, and a really high buffer/write speed. I'd love to be able to take 2-3 frames per second, and shoot indefinitely. Ideally with full RAWs, but m-raw would also work.<br /><br />I checked the raw video chart at <a href="http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215.0" target="_blank">http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=6215.0</a> and it lists the buffer sizes.. but honestly I'm not sure what the numbers mean?<br /><br />Anyway current options are a 7D, 50D, 5Dc, or I might even be able to stretch to a 5D2 (but I'd prefer not to). <br /><br />Does anyone have an idea if any of those cameras are capable of a constant 2-3fps? <img title="Smiley" src="http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/Smileys/aaron/smiley.gif" alt=":)" /><br /><br />Cheers<br />Paul</p>

<p>some of the venders confirmed it is a grey market import. They said that they would honor the warrenty for 3 years, and if I have a problem I send it back to them. Then, they would send it on to canon themselves.</p>

<p>No thanks. They would need to send it back to japan or wherever, so I could end up waiting months to have it fixed.<br /><br />With the cashback offer canon is currently doing, I can get it for £1330, from reputable online dealers.</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>The time has finally come to upgrade to a 6d, and I've been looking around for the best prices.<br>

<br />I've noticed on ebay (UK) that you can pick them up for just under £1200. Warehouse express by comparison is £1479.</p>

<p>The ebay listings state they are in UK, and are split kits (it was a body+lens, and the lens has been removed). Would this explain the difference in price, or are they grey market items?</p>

<p>The price saving is tempting, but I don't want to get stung if it breaks and it doesn't have a UK warrenty.</p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p>From what I read, it seems that button is only on a few of the 1-series bodies :)</p>

<p>All fixed! Grinded about 3mm off the mount, works perfectly now :) Turns out I was pretty close to what was happening with my second message!</p>

<p>If you look at the 10oclock position to the camera body, you will see a black pin. When this is depressed it tells the camera that there is a lens mounted to the body. The camera then looks for the electronic contacts, which it can't find. So it gets confused and won't fire.</p>

<p>By removing the bit of the lens mount that contacts this pin, you solve the problem :)</p>

<p>http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showpost.php?p=9926644&postcount=4460</p>

<p>off to find the dremel, will report back later :)</p>

<p>woops, lens contacts were still taped up haha. Ef lens works fine!</p>

<p>When mounting the lens, it works fine right up until it 'clicks' into place. (And thus gets locked onto the body).</p>

<p>edit: EF lens now giving 'err 01' too. Hmmmmm</p>

<p>Hi Henry,<br>

<br />Works fine with no lens attached.<br>

All modes give the error.<br>

Yup, attached a sigma 8mm and it worked fine.</p>

<p>I tried covering the lens contacts with some tape, but it didn't help. I guess that the adapter pushes the contacts in slightly when it twists on. The camera then thinks 'contacts depressed, read lens data'. But it can't find any and gets confused.</p>

<p>Paul</p>

<p>Hey!</p>

<p>I've just picked up a secondhand 1dmk 2n, and I'm trying to use some old film lenses on it. These are using the chipless adapters.</p>

<p>However, I get the "Err 01" message (signifying the lens isn't talking to the camera). Is there any way to get around this? I figure perhaps a chipped adapter will work, but I don't want to throw money at it if it won't help.</p>

<p>All the lenses and adapters worked fine on my 500d, so I cant see why it should be any different. I've also updated to firmware 1.1.2</p>

<p>Any help much appreciated! <br>

<br />Cheers<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>Just wondering if anyone could recommend a decent old flashgun, for use with my DSLR. I have a wireless trigger (with a safety circuit built in), so the trigger voltage is irrelevant.</p>

<p>I know that you can pick up modern flashes like the yungnuo for about £50, so it would have to be a lot cheaper to swing it.</p>

<p>Really I just need something with a rotatable head, and different power settings. I'm sure there must be a few old flashes out there that meet those needs! I don't need any fancy other features on it :)</p>

<p>Cheers<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses so far guys! A lot of valuable information there :)<br>

Will check out all the prices and info on the suggested lenses. Thanks for the additional websites regarding mirror slap, will come in handy I'm sure!</p>

<p>So far I've found a nikon 35mm f2 AIS for £135, and a pentax PKA f3.8 19mm for £75. Both are pretty good options in my eyes.<br>

<br />I wasn't thinking of going for something so slow as 3.8, but I would be able to hand hold it and make up for the lost speed. The larger apertures are preferred for shooting hand held in low light, not for getting DOF :)</p>

<p>I love UWA's, and didn't think I would get one in that price range. Granted it might not be very sharp, but at f8 it the only samples look fine for my needs.</p>

 

<p>Hey,<br /> <br /> Basically as the title describes, I'm after a few wide-lenses for use on a canon 5d (classic).<br /> <br /> I'll ideally get a 24/28mm, and a 35mm, and my total budget is around £200. I'd like to find something that is 2.8 or faster <img title="Smilie" src="http://www.rangefinderforum.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif" alt="" border="0" /><br /> <br /> From an earlier thread I see Pentax Takumars and Yashica ML were highly recommended, and these both fit easily in my budget. But, I'm just wondering if anyone else has any more recommendations?<br /> <br /> On a related note, are there many decent old portrait lenses too? All I can find is either 50, or 135mm..<br>

<br /> Thanks!<br /> Paul</p>

<p>anti-bacterial foot cream is the best thing ever for removing fungus. The cream you get for athletes foot :)<br>

<br />It sticks to the surface too, so can be useful where liquids would just drain off</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>As I mentioned in an older thread, I've just purchased a mamiya c220. However, the waist level finder on it broke, and then I accidently dropped it off a bridge..</p>

<p>So I need to source a replacement! I was told the single action finders are preferable. I've found one online for a decent price, but I'm not sure if it will fit. On the c220 finders there is a small notch on either side, but I can't see this on the pictures of the C330 one?</p>

<p>Does anyone know if the finders are cross compatible? The manual suggests the finder on the c330 is removed in the same way, so I would imagine it will work.</p>

<p>Cheers!<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>I've just picked up 2 mamiya c220s for a very good price. However, the bellows are pretty bent. One camera is useable, the other isn't. <br /><br />Does anyone have any idea if bellows can be straightened back out? There's a repair manual available online, so I have no hesitations in taking the bellows off the camera if necessary (unless they're glued on?). </p>

<p>I was thinking of taking them off, using credit cards or similar to straighten them, and then flattening them under a pile of books for a week or so. But I feel that as they've probably been like this for 20 years or something, they might be permanently bent.</p>

<p>Any ideas?</p>

<p>Cheers!<br>

Paul</p>

<p>Yeah the bellows are very crumpled. One camera appears the be useable in its current state, the other one would need work doing to it.</p>

<p>Im amazed at how nice of cameras they are! It's got everything I need in a 120 camera, and it doesn't have the problems that my bronica had (big mirror that caused vibrations, weight, and size).</p>

<p>Thanks for the replies everyone! Unfortunately the camera had the worse finder, but it's not the end of the world :) I could pick up the better finder for £20 if I feel the need!</p>

<p>I managed to get TWO c220 bodies, for the grand total of £40. Both of them are in user condition, supposedly the bellows are a bit bent, but all the mechanisms are meant to work. Hopefully both will be usable, if not I can use parts from one to fix the other. I noticed there's a repair manual available for free online, so it should be an easy task!</p>

<p>Hey,<br>

<br />I've got the opportunity to purchase a mamiya c220 for a very reasonable price. I used to shoot with a bronica SQ-A, and I really miss the beautiful 120 negatives that it produced.<br>

So I want to delve back into medium format for a while, and this seems like an offer too good to miss.</p>

<p>I want to know how bright the viewing screen is? Would it be similar to the bronica one? I have a very old rolleicord, and its an absolute pain to focus with! My eyesight is fine, but I just prefer having a clean bright screen to focus with.</p>

<p>Cheers<br>

Paul</p>

<p>The 10-22 are too wide for my liking, the distortion around the edges is horrible. And they're pretty slow too! I won't go any wider than 28mm realistically.</p>

<p>Yeah, I don't imagine I would ever go above 3200. If I *really* needed to get a rubbish noisy photo, I could always push the RAW file 2 stops to 12800.<br /><br />The main reason I use LV, is because some of my lenses don't have hard infinity stops. If I only start using lenses that have this (or adjust them so they do), then I won't have a problem! There's some really nice old glass out there that will far suprass anything my kit lens could ever produce.<br /><br />I like being able to shoot photos fast (often shooting 8 frames in a row). So having a camera that can keep up is good. I've reached the limits of my 500d on a few occasions when it was stuck for 20 second writing images. But, I can just learn to shoot slower in some situations. It's not like sports where you HAVE to shoot all the time.</p>

<p><br />The screen is 2.5" as opposed to 3.0". It's not too much of a difference! If it was like 2" I might not be able to deal with it, but a 20% difference isn't too bad. And a green tint wouldn't bother me, I can just learn to ignore it.</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>Currently I'm shooting with a 500d, but I'm already noticing the limitations of it. My friend will give me a good price for it, so I'm considering upgrading. I mainly use my camera for shooting in low light. I shoot a mixture of handheld (wide open, iso 1600, 1/2 second shutter), and some on a tripod.</p>

<p>With my 500d I feel quite restricted with my focal lengths. Due to the nature of where I take photos, I need to use a wide angle to get the shots. The only wide angle I currently have is a 8mm fisheye, and then the 18-55mm kit lens. The kit lens is absolutely awful wide open, it would probably be sharper if I smeared Vaseline on the sensor.</p>

<p>Going full-frame makes sense to me as I can use all my old film lenses via adapters. Sure these aren't going to be as nice as modern lenses, but I'm not interested in super laser sharp images.</p>

<p>I'm trying to figure out what my options would be and if it is really worth changing up. So far the only option appears to be a used 5d1. But I'm wondering what the high iso performance would be like, when compared to the 500d? The only feature on the 500d that I think I would miss, is the live view.</p>

<p>To me it seems like a really good idea to upgrade, but maybe I'm just excited at the idea of a new camera. Do you think the benefits of a 5d1 would outweigh the benefits of the 500d? Or would there be any other cameras that you would recommend? To be honest I would prefer to stick to canon, as I've shot with them for nearly 3 years and never had an issue.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br /> Paul</p>

<p>Hey,</p>

<p>Basically, I might have the chance to shoot a rare guitar (owned by one of the beatles), for a client. The whole setup needs to be portable, as I will be working on-location.<br /> <br />Now, I have zero lighting or studio equipment, so will need to invest. I want to keep it as cheap as possible, im quite happy to DIY it all. I was going to make a backdrop with a large white sheet, and either wood or metal for the support. This leaves me with just the light setup to consider.<br /> <br /><br />From what I can see, I have a few options:<br /> 1. Work lights (such as they use on building sites). Although these would be cheap, the colour would be off.<br /> 2. Obtain normal lights and buy daylight bulbs for them. I figure I might be able to blag some standard lights (like you would have in your home), from freecycle. I would need to diffuse these though. Maybe buying some reflectors, or I could make a huge light tent, then light it from the outside.<br /> 3. Buy some softboxes. Although I want the cheapest possible solution, there does seem to be some good options on ebay (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Studio-Softbox-1000W-Photo-Studio-Continuous-Light-Kit-/260792833223?pt=UK_Photography_StudioEquipment_RL&hash=item3cb876d4c7).</p>

<p>Does anyone have any hints/recommendations etc? Anything would be appreciated!</p>

<p>The final thing, is that the client would like a 360 degree view (so you can spin around it and look at all the sides). This would entail building a turntable of sorts. I was thinking of maybe using a tv turner, then putting a large circular peice of wood on top covered in fabric (say 2m square circle). I would need to support the edges too, but I could use casters for this. I could fashion something else without too much difficulty I think.<br /> It would be nice though to have the guitar look suspended in mid air. Basically, whats on this website: http://www.axlguitars.com/as820wo.html<br /> Any ideas how to suspend the guitar? The best idea I have is to use strong fishing wire. I just need to make sure its not anything that might damage the guitar!</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for any help, I really appreciate it.<br /> Paul</p>

<blockquote>

<p>I did not pay yet and I do not INTEND to pay<br /> I just hope he cancels the sale without predudice.<br /> personally, I am inclined to give him the benefit of not knowing what he had<br /> and treat is as an honest mistake.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thats the sort of attitude that makes ebay a pain to sell on. Its quite obviously your fault, if you had spent 10 seconds looking at the pictures you would have realised the item was only the front element.</p>

<p>I've sold things on ebay before, and then the buyer has just decided they dont want it (as they didnt read the item description stating it had fungus). Im pretty sure if I wanted to file an unpaid item claim I would have to wait 7 days or so before opening the case. This would waste my time, as a genuine buyer could have purchased the item within those 7 days.</p>

<p>Pay for the item, and accept it as a rookie mistake.</p>

<p>I agree with JDM, Jon Goodman is the best guy for seals!<br>

I think his email has changed though, this one is the latest according to RFF JGood21967[AT]aol.com<br>

(swap [AT] for @, its to stop spambots trawling the email)</p>