tacomadm18
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Posts posted by tacomadm18
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<p>I'm a little confused and want to ensure I'm on the right track - It I'm using the st-e2 along with one off camera flash lets say a (270 exII) Is the ratio function on the st-e2 itself the only way to control the flash power -<br>
I understand it's not the same as using a better flash from 1/128 to 1/1 - I just want to be able to control the output from the camera -<br>
thanks</p>
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<p>So I've been on the fence about the D600 -<br>
* I'm using the D7000 and like the camera, but was thinking of moving to the D600 -<br>
* One of my big concerns is the Sensor, Dust, Oil, etc , etc - I know people who have had it returned more than once, and or have had it cleaned by local camera shops - and it continues do have issues -<br>
* My concern is, is there a bigger problem that Nikon is not addressing - I do not want to deal with a camera that is in and out of repair -<br>
* I'm also not looking at a D800 or the older D700 -<br>
* For me it's, stay with the D7000 or move to the D600 -<br>
thoughts - thanks</p>
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<p>Besides reading about them I was wondering what thoughts people have on the two cameras in the real world - No specific shooting - JUst an all around camera used for general shooting -<br>
* image quality -<br>
* focus speed<br>
* will mostly shoot in jped mode<br>
* flash, etc, etc</p>
<p>thanks</p>
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<p>I think I found the problem, I had the flash set to red eye - no more delay</p>
<p>question - on the (e1 setting) should I use 1/250th or the (1/250 auto fp)<br>
I'm going to have to take an online flash course - - -<br>
thanks</p>
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<p>I deleted all the pic's - what would i be looking for if I take another pic as a test</p>
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<p>Got a question for you flash guys and gals...<br>
So I'm really just starting to use a flash - I'm using a D700 and a SB700.<br>
I was at an indoor event today and was using my Nikon AFS 60mm (not macro shots, just generic shots)- I had the flash set on TTl, but when I took a look at the pic's tonight in LR, they were all blurry. After I thought about it, I do remember pushing the shutter buttom and a delay before the pic was taken (anbd a delay before the flash went off). I guess I had a wrong setting. I was shooting (S) at 250..<br>
I'm sure the delay is what caused the blurry pics, what did I do wrong and what would be a good setting to start working on my flash shots -<br>
thanks</p>
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<p>I have been thinking for awhile of letting the full frame go and moving into a more compact Nex 7. I shoot just for fun and usually don't print anything bigger than 8X10. My thinking is I will take the camera more places. If I do move to the Nex 7 I will not keep the full frame, just don't need two cameras. I'm not to worried about low light shooting, I do shoot some macro, but I can get a macro lens and the rest is just general shooting. The one thing I worry about is image quality as the full frame Nikon gives me great IQ. thoughts<br>
thanks</p>
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<p>I was doing more reading tonight:<br>
** Sigma 150-500mm OS might also fit the bill - it had some good reviews<br>
** Sigma - 120-400 OS - seems the IQ is not as good as the 150-500<br>
** the nikon 80-400mm VR - they say the auto-focus is very slow<br>
I don't know, but at this very minute it seems the sigma 150-500 or the Nikon 300 AF-S f4 are on top of the list and around the same cost. (new)<br>
thoughts</p>
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<p>Nikon 300mm Prime lenses: ?<br>
I've been looking at the Nikon Telephoto AF-S Nikkor 300mm f/4D ED-IF Autofocus Lens and the older one I guess the non- AF-S - the one with the smaller tripod collar.<br>
I used a friends older version and it seemed O.K and the auto-focus was O.K, but haven't gotten the chance to try the newer model. I was wondering what people think about either or both. I read that the newer version does a better job at auto-foucs - not sure it's worth the extra monies.<br>
The one thing that jumps out is cost - I can get the older version at a local shop for around $450.00 The newer one is a lot more - B&H has it for around $1300.00 With that said I'm not sure the newer one is worth it.<br>
I should mentioin that I shoot full frame and my main lens in the Nikon 24-70mm. I just like to shoot some wildlife, some R/C stuff and need to reach out.. I don't think "IS" is really needed as I can use my tripod or shoot at 1/1000.<br>
My other thoughts were:<br>
* Sigma - 70-200 2.8 non OS - I've just read where they have some focus issues and I don't want to have to deal with it or try and find one that does not have that issue. Not sure 200mm is enough.<br>
* Nikon 70-200 2.8 VR VI - the thing is I think I would mostly shoot at the long end. Again, not sure 200mm is enough.<br>
* I also thought about the Nikon 70-300mm VR, but is some of the articles they say it is soft. If I'm going to invest I would like a sharp lens.<br>
* I'm open to other brands - they just need to be quick on the auto-focus.<br>
* If I went with the nikon 300mm at some point I would probably get the TC1.4 for it.<br>
thoughts ? ?<br>
thanks,</p>
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<p>My question is this - what is the best way to manage a flash (sb700) when using an older lens mentioned above. I'll be using the flash on a D700. thanks</p>
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<p>So I have to think about the 3100/5100 option - when you say the 35mm are you talking about the DX version -<br>
I also just read about the Fuji X10 - seems to do a nice job -<br>
The Pro X 1 - Seems like one should save up and just get a Leica</p>
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<p>After thinking about it I would need a view finder, I think not having one would be an issue after a wihile. With that said I went out today and held a Nikon V1 - I like the way it felt, the view finder looked O.K - it didn't have the feel of a full frame, but it couldn't - I will say the one thing that would keep me from that camera would be the lack of easy controls to set the ISO, Shutter, etc, etc - Maybe I missed somthing, but you have to enter into the menu system to change these settings - seems that this would be an issue long term. <br>
I guess I could consider the 3100 or thte 5100 - but then you add the wieght of a quality lens and what am I really gaining.<br>
The Nex-5n is out - I don't think I want a camera I have to add the view finder to -<br>
The EP3 is out - no view finder<br>
The V1 looks like it is out - no easy access to the ISO, etc, etc<br>
I understand that getting the same IQ as a full frame is not going to happen, but I still<br>
think I should be able to something in the ball park.<br>
I'm very confused on what to do -</p>
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<p>Q: What subjects do you want to capture?<br>
A: I like to shoot what catches my eye - a lot of landscape, Car Shows, Objects that catch my eye if I'm out and about - that could be me taking a walk or in the car and something cathces my attention - I also shoot some macro - I would say more Close-Up stuff<br>
Q:Are you looking for size savings;<br>
A; Yes, th nikon full frame is heavy - great camera and lens just big<br>
Q: How important is a viewfinder vs. LCD screen to you?<br>
Q:How important is fast autofocus? How important is the ability to switch lenses?<br>
A: I would say it is important, as an example I think the Leica X1 has a very slow autofocus. I would like to be able to switch lenses<br>
A: That is a good question; I've been looking at the V!, it seems to have everything I need, I'm not sure I would use the viewfinder, I'm sure I would use it sometimes, but not all the time.<br>
Q:Do you have lenses you want to continue using?<br>
A: No - I would retire my full frame<br>
After reading a lot of threads, etc, I don't think there is a 4/3's type of camera that will meet all my need so I guess I would have to setting in some areas - Right now the Pen EP-3 and the Nike V1 are on the top of my list.<br>
thoughts and thanks</p>
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<p>I wouldn't say street, I shoot everthing anywhere I go...<br>
One thing that concerns me is the talk about the out of focus issues on th X100</p>
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<p>I'm not a pixel peeper, but Image Quality is very important - I mean very important - I would not print anything over 11x14 - I shoot RAW and use lightroom 3.6 -</p>
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<p>I've been reading a lot on the 4/3's cameras & compact type like the X100, etc, etc,,,<br>
I've had a few issues with my neck, shoulder, arm areas and have been thinking of switching to a lighter camera solution. I'm coming from the Nikon full frame school -<br>
The Pen EP-3 looks good to me. It seems like it would be easier to hold, can still change lenses, has good IQ, etc. I also like the X100, but not sure about the 50mm fixed.<br>
I've done some reading on the Nex-5n and the Nex-7, but I'm not sure I want to go down the Sony road.<br>
Anyone have any real world thoughts - not just quoting specs - I've also had a thought about moving down to a smaller DSLR body, but don't really think there is that much of a difference.<br>
thanks</p>
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<p>I looked at this post today and noticed that some of my original post was cut off - (don't know why) anyway I've been on both sides of the house (used only primes and used only zooms) the thing is when I use zooms I feel like I just want to use primes - I'm not sure why that is - I'm not a pro and just shoot shots because I like to shoot - (anything and everything) I don't like to do alot of post prodcution just a couple simple tweaks - It also seems that when I have used zooms most of the time I end up shooting at either end of the lens - I just thought I'd see what other people had to say - I don't think there is a right or wrong answer - but I do think my heart tell me to use Primes - that's just me -</p>
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<p>The age old quest
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<p>couple other questions -<br>
* the metz wireless ring flash looks nice - anyone using these or are they a waste of money<br>
* how about using a 1.4 extender with the nikon 2.8 D -</p>
<p>thanks</p>
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<p>So if you were thnking of a marco lens which of the 3 lenses would you choose and why - I'd like to keep the list to these three;<br />Bugs and flowers would not be the number 1 reason for the lens - more for objects and things - with a few flowers here and there -<br>
** Nikon 105mm 2.8 D (non VR)<br>
** Nikon 105mm 2.8 VR<br>
** Sigma 150mm HSM OS<br>
thoughts and thanks</p>
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<p>I've heard some good things about the metz ring flash - it's also wireless if your camera supports that.</p>
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<p>I was wondering if anyone has ever taken the online courses that Bryan Peterson and<br>
others teach at <a href="http://www.ppsop.com/index.aspx">http://www.ppsop.com/index.aspx</a> <br>
If so what were your thoughts - It seems courses run from $195 and up.<br>
thanks</p>
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<p>So I've been getting into macro and was looking into a better lighting solution.<br>
I've been shooting more objects than bugs or flowers -<br>
It seems to me the R1 solution would be a better solution based on some of the things I've read.<br>
I'd like to stay away from the DIY stuff - it aslo seems the R1 would be better for more advanced shooting.</p>
<p>thoughts, thanks</p>
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<p>I've been getting more and more into macro shooting, not just flowers, insects, <br />etc, but just any object that catches my eye. With that said, I'm using a nikkor <br />60mm 2.8 d macro lens and a corded off camera flash (sb800). It can be a pain with the corded flash getting in the way, et, etc, but the results can be good. I have a chance to get the <br />Sigma 140dg ring flash, and was wondering if it will make that much of a <br />diference.<br>
thoughts</p>
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