morten_lohmann

March 4, 2011

@ WW:

It is by no means "common practice" to allocate AF to "*". That would suggest that this is something MOST PEOPLE do.

That may be true in your little corner of the world, but it certainly isn't the case everywhere. Some of us like our QCD and since most people have a pretty limited number of fingers on the back of the camera, assigning other vital functions to those fingers does not aid in speed and functionality.

But perhaps you only shoot cameras that does not have such a thing? Or maybe you assign it's functions to a button on the left side? Since you obviously don't care about anything on that side of the camera, you should have a free hand.

In any case. This is useless.

You clearly love shooting with training wheels, and that is perfectly OK. If that is your preference, by all means do it. My experience tells me that I can shoot faster and with more control, in other modes.

Believe what you want and do what you want.

And yes, still waiting to see "Morten's" portfolio, website, bio, or anything. Make me "eat my words." ;-)

</blockquote>

What exactly are you hoping to see there?

1: My portfolio is a big leather bound thing currently sitting on my desk.

I don't have a portfolio online for the simple reason that I don't have a sick need for approval from people like you. I feel no need to share my work with people I have no relationship with (personal or professional).

2: i have no need for a website. Mainly for the reasons stated above.

3: Bio? Not only are the details of my life and work none of your concern, it is also completely irrelevant.

March 4, 2011

What would I do to get a photo? Simply put, whatever it takes. If I believe a photo is worth getting, I am going to get it.

Bad weather doesn't really bother me. I love snow and prefer temperatures around -15C or lower. Rain is just water. I will dry off at some point and so will my equipment. The only thing that really gets to me, is heat. I don't deal well with temperatures above 25C.

Being a big fan of rock climbing, bungee jumping and such, I have no problem with taking a few risks either. To be honest, I probably enjoy "living on the edge" a little to much for my own good.

I find that the photos that I had to really work for, are generally the ones I enjoy the most.

March 4, 2011

I have never said anything about M being the only choice.

If you are referring to Program Shift Memory disappearing: it does NOT deactivate when the trigger finger is released from the shutter button – it hangs about a bit - and if one wants that memorized exposure - it is there for the next shot should it be necessary. Also to hold it, one can easily half-depress the shutter release. The FACT is: The Override Setting is available to use if you want to use it for the next shot. How to accomplish that, is merely functionality matter and also knowing COMPLETELY how the camera works and seeking out the possibilities and advantages of ANY mode, once ALL the functionalities are understood and appreciated.

</blockquote>

"A bit" if I remember correctly is somewhere in the two second area, in this case. For someone who claims to use P mode help work under time pressure, you seem to have a very relaxed attitude towards time, in the way you work.

And yes, you are correct. One can hold it by keeping the shutter release half depressed. Good thing we don't need that for anything else, right. Oh wait.. Isn't that where the AF is?

I guess real super-photographers like you don't need that. Just focus once and use that for the next 50 shots. Who cares if they are all in focus and correctly exposed.

I think that we have come to the point, where you are really just trying to convince yourself.

March 3, 2011

@ WW:

The fact is that a competent photographer will get more hindrance than help from P mode. Sure you can still control aperture and shutter speed, but only until you take your finger of the trigger, Then you're back to square one and have to repeat the process for your next shot.

If you want to consistently control DoF and have even a tiny bit of freedom to move or recompose between shots, this is nothing more than a complete waste of time.

Bottom line: There is no logical reason for anyone, with enough experience to use M mode correctly, to ever use P mode.

It is counter productive, at best.

As for this train wreck of a sentence:

And even though you do not care less: maybe hang around long enough on this thread, to answer these questions posed to you.

</blockquote>

I fail to see a question mark anywhere. It could be hidden under layers of poor grammar, or I may simply have missed it (most likely due to complete lack of interest).

March 3, 2011

One may assume these quips are meant to discredit or inflame others – or to get the “advice” question off the table.

</blockquote>

Assume what you will. My intention was not to discredit you or anyone else. I have absolutely nothing to gain from that.

You are free to do whatever you want, but no matter how much you glorify and praise it, letting your tools think for you, will never give you the best possible result. That will give you the shot the camera wants. Not the shot YOU want.

As for your comment about the other thread. I stopped reading that, after I posted my last comment, in which I made it clear that I had given up on the topic.

Since I have no intention of re-reading that mess of a thread to find one specific comment, I obviously can't be sure if what you quoted is taken out of context. Either way, I don't see any question there. Just a meaningless request, that one can reasonably assume (as you did with my former post) is a childish attempt at discrediting me.

The main difference is that I couldn't care less.

March 3, 2011

@ WW:

I really couldn't disagree more.

That you and others use it, doesn't make it a good idea.

Program mode is and will always be a compromise. True, it is the "safe" choice. But it is not the best choice. Pretty much like training wheels on a bicycle. you won't fall on your arse quite as often, but you will never realize the bicycles full potential.

Time pressure is a lousy excuse. If you know your trade, you should also know how to make adjustments on the fly. It takes next to no time, to adjust camera settings and for the most part, you don't even need to take your eye away from the viewfinder.

The fact that they insist on keeping that feature on the 1's is actually the only thing I hate about Canon.

A carpenter wouldn't let his hammer do his thinking for him. Why should we?

March 3, 2011

No camera will ever be outdated. As long as it is not the limiting factor in what you want to do, it is a useful tool.

Megapixels mean less than most people think. 8 is more than enough to produce great images. Even in relatively large print sizes.

March 3, 2011

I completely agree with Yana.

If you have to ask these types of questions, you should not try to undertake a job such as wedding photography. Instead you should focus on learning.

Shooting a wedding is necessarily difficult from a technical point of view (although it does have some challenges), but you only get one chance. One messed up shot can ruin it all.

Then there is the question of equipment. You just don't have what it takes.

As the ABSOLUTE MINIMUM, you need:

2 good camera bodies. Going in there with only one is just plain irresponsible.

2 good flash units.

A handful of good lenses. Which ones will depend on your style, camera (crop factor), venue and other factors. But they need to be fast, and as a general rule (with some exceptions) L-glass is the way to go.

More batteries and flash cards than you could possibly use.

You may also need:

Tripod.

Additional lighting for the couple's private photo session.

A medium format film camera. I know not everyone agrees with this and I'm not trying to start the "film vs. digital" debate. But I firmly believe that this can be a very nice addition to any wedding shoot, for those special shots. It has some unique qualities and is still widely used for these sorts of things.

Most of all you need knowledge and experience.

"Program mode" should not even be in your vocabulary. Know your equipment and how to get the most out of it. This goes for everything from camera bodies and lenses, to flash units and filters.

March 2, 2011

I'm not completely familiar with the XSi, but could it be that the AF problem is simply the fact that it is horribly slow? All cameras I have ever seen in that range are.

I'm not entirely sure what the screen size has to do with anything. It doesn't really do anything. And the difference is only ½".

With the 30D you get:

Pentaprism instead of pentamirror.

better flash sync.

Faster shutter.

Better build.

Larger ISO range.

Megapixels really don't mean that much. Most wedding photos are printed in album sizes and for that, either camera has more that enough.

February 27, 2011

I would like to travel again wi th the most powerful lens (possibly with image stabilization) I could reasonably expect to hold without a support

</blockquote>

What you can or cannot shoot handheld, is quite difficult for us to guess. Some are supremely good at hand holding large telephotos and others need IS just to keep a 50mm. still.

If you don't know what your current limit is, you should try out different lenses to find out.

That being said, the 500mm 4L IS II would be a good choice. A 1.4 or 2.0 extender would give you a bit more reach, and (sort of) compensate for the lack of zoom, since they are easier to carry than 2 extra lenses.

If zoom is important to you, the 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS might be the lens for you.

But as Jim said, it will be easier to give you useful advise if we know your budget.

February 27, 2011

Maxpedition is quite popular around here and I do have a few of their products.

Unfortunately they don't have anything that fits this purpose. The Colossus do look great, and I have thought about buying it for everyday use. But what I really need now, is a bag/pouch that I can attach to the front of my plate carrier for easy access.

Having another separate bag to carry, simply isn't an option.

February 27, 2011

As the title implies, I am looking for a MOLLE DSLR bag, for use with a plate carrier.

For those who may be unfamiliar with the term: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOLLE">http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MOLLE</a>

The Lowepro Toploader Pro 75 AW, is the right size, so I am looking for something along those lines.

I have a custom tailor on hand, that have made things of this nature for me in the past. But as some of you may know, highly skilled craftsmen, making one-off special items, tend to be in high demand, and I would prefer to skip the waiting list, if a product that fits my needs is already available.

So far, the only thing I have found is this: <a href="http://www.hazard4.com/products_forward_observer.html">http://www.hazard4.com/products_forward_observer.html</a>

Apart from the zippers (Spanish fly-release would be faster) it fits the bill. But it is too small for a pro DSLR.

Does anyone know where I might find what I need?

Posted February 26, 2011 · February 26, 2011

These adapters may have lens elements that may degrade the image quality. Maybe not. I really don't know, but I know that not having any glass added is always better.

</blockquote>

I can't speak for them all, but the one I have with a corrective element (for FD) works very well.

It tends to be a little soft at wider apertures. At f/3+ it is perfectly sharp. I like a bit of softness, so this is good for me.

In any case. They are cheap as dirt, so a bit of experimentation is affordable.

Posted February 26, 2011 · February 26, 2011

I don't understand this. It is physically impossible to focus a lens at infinity when mounted on a camera with a larger mount-to-sensor distance. That includes most, if not all, rangefinder lenses.

</blockquote>

That does not mean the adaptors do not exist. And some have correction elements that makes focus to infinity possible.

Here are a few:

<a href="http://www.enjoyyourcamera.com/Lens-Mount-Adapter/Canon-Adapters:::197_202.html?XTCsid=89b7cd281433f5258efb1744908d1cbf">http://www.enjoyyourcamera.com/Lens-Mount-Adapter/Canon-Adapters:::197_202.html?XTCsid=89b7cd281433f5258efb1744908d1cbf</a>

That was just one of the first pages that came up on google. There are many more.

Posted February 26, 2011 · February 26, 2011

There are Canon adaptors for just about any lens ever made.

If you tell us which system you are currently using, we can guide you in the right direction.

It would also help to know what you intend on using it for.

February 24, 2011

Of those two, I would chose the 5D. Sensor size means more than a few extra bells and whistles IMO. And it is also better build. Plastic simply shouldn't be used for camera bodies.

I would also consider a second hand 1D or 1Ds instead.

Your budget will easily get you a 1Ds mk1 and a 1D mk3 should be within reach as well. With a little luck maybe even a 1Ds mk2.

You might want to hang on to a few of your old lenses. There is an adaptor that will allow you to use them on EOS cameras.

February 23, 2011

If you don't mind a slightly larger package, the Samsung NX10 looks rather interesting. Only a tiny bit larger than the G12, but with pretty much the same features as a proper DSLR.

And it has an APS-C sensor

Had it been a Canon, it would be in my gear bag already.

February 22, 2011

More than anything, the problem I see with your idea, is that many great film bodies are extremely cheap these days. And since many of the major digital systems share lenses with their film counterparts (EOS line for example), those who use these systems could just as easily buy a film body that can use all the lenses, flash units etc. that they already have. I have seen many very nice EOS film bodies sell for no more than $10.

As others have said, VERY high end 35mm. or medium format might work. But most likely, only a very specific group of photographers would be potential costumers.

Personally, I couldn't see myself renting anything other than perhaps a large format. But then again, I already own what I believe to be the best 35mm. ever made (IMO anyway).

February 22, 2011

The main problem I see, is that no one lens will give you all those things, without some really bad compromises. Not within your budget anyway.

For group shots you would need a wide. For weddings and other indoor situations, this would be good as well.

With a 1.6 crop factor, this means nothing much longer than about 20mm.

For portraits you need at least a short to medium telephoto. anything from 50mm. and up.

Aperture is king here, and also your main problem. Faster lenses cost more. The 50mm f/1.8 is a very decent lens and very cheap. But being a prime it is somewhat more limited.

You could instead choose something longer, like a 300mm. to get the same effect. Personally I prefer to shoot portraits with a 300mm.

As others have said. If you are consistently getting dark photos, chances are the lens is not the problem.

February 20, 2011

I always carry a compact on me. I know full well that I will never get any of my EOS's to be small, and I really don't want that either. One of things I like most about my 1's are their size and weight.

I would however like a prime that does not ad to much to the profile of the camera. Ideally a L lens (for the weather sealing), but obviously that is not going to happen.

A pancake would also be very easy to carry in any pocket, for those time where I would normally bring only a telephoto zoom.

February 19, 2011

@ Erik Magnuson:

Whichever way you look at it, you simply can't get around the fact that many of us consistently get the results you claim are impossible, with either the camera in question, or others with identical specifications.

If I can get clear and sharp photos in low light, it can be done. So the fact that the OP and you can't, points more towards lack of skill on your end, than lack of potential in the camera.

In any case, I give up. You have made it clear that you either don't understand, or don't want to understand. My life is to short to spend any more of it, trying to help you. If you are happy with uninformed mediocrity, than who am I to judge.

Ps: If you want to be taken seriously, start by showing a bit of respect by at least getting peoples names right, when you address them.

February 19, 2011

@ Erik Magnuson:

That one photo says nothing about the potential of the camera. Only that it handles high ISO's less than perfectly, when shot as they did.

But lets assume that you are right. If that is the case, the thousands of photos that I and many others have taken with cameras of near identical specifications, must somehow have broken the laws of camera physics, since they are sharp and in focus.

You should see some of the prints I have on my walls. Even the 20x30's look great. It must be the magic print paper, that fairies make in my basement.

Online reviews can be a great source of information, but no one in their right mind takes the so called "test shots" serious.

February 19, 2011

The point is not to have it fit in a pocket, but to give it a slimmer profile.

When I only bring one lens, I never bring a bag or case for the camera. I just carry it by the strap, over my shoulder. A slimmer profile would be less prone to bumping/getting stuck on things, and draw less attention to itself.

It Would also be nice to be able to just stick the camera in whatever bag I happen to have with me (that is not a camera bag). A slimmer profile would allow me to do this.

February 19, 2011

@ Chris Clarke:

Really? Thats your advise? Get a camera and lens that will set her back over $4000?

That is quite a long way from maybe wanting to spend $4-500 on a simple camera, that gets the job done.

Broken record here, I know. But once more for the slow kids:

If your compact (or any other camera) isn't doing the very simple job of taking photos of kids indoors, you are using it wrong.

The SD1400 is more than capable of that task, IF USED CORRECTLY.

I know it has slow AF, but that is something you can learn to deal with. When I started in this field, it was with a film SLR with manual focus only. In fact, that was what most people used back then. And believe it or not, we still got great shots of things moving a hell of a lot faster than a couple of kids.

Bottom line. ANY camera can produce good images under most conditions. It's all about the photographer's skills.

February 19, 2011

Hmm.. Didn't think of that. Haven't really looked to closely at the NX10.

I blame Canon. They make their cameras so good that one doesn't feel the need to know these things about other brands :-P

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