carolyn_bud

<p>Ok... I'm just confused because Inside fitness is requesting "5. A model/photographer release will be required. A photo that is submitted without a release will not be considered."<br>

So she just needs a release stating that she has permission to use photos and that they can also use them?</p>

<p>Yes, Yes, and No..... So I guess she just needs a release form?<br>

For future reference, what *should* I have used for a contract with her? I thought by being hte person that captured the images that I was the owner?</p>

<p>Glad it worked out!<br>

I worked as a model for a male photographer before, and he taped one of our sessions, and was 100% honest with me - he explained that his lawyer advised it because it was the two of us, and that way he had the sesion documented. I wasn't doing nudes, so I was fine with it...</p>

<p>Hi All!</p>

<p>Wondering if anyone can reccommend a sample model/photographer release that would be suitable for a client who is using some of the shots I did for her to enter their "hot 100" contest?<br>

<a href="http://www.hotandfit100.ca/submission.asp">http://www.hotandfit100.ca/submission.asp</a><br>

Inside fitness is asking for a model/photographer release, and lately I have been shooting on a "personal use" basis... so I'm not sure what should be in this release... any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>interesting, i may have to try.. though I've tried about 5 different brands already *sighs* (apparently my pupils dilate more than the average persons', so when it is dark I can see the ridge of where the prescription ends.... which is also frustrating.. lol..</p>

<p>I'm 27...</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses! I'm going to try to shoot with my left open or at least open it every few shots if I can.. its the only thing I can think of - why else would my left be going blurry only when I shoot?<br>

I've tried "blink".. it doesn't seem to help :S</p>

 

<p>Just curious if anyone else has this issue: so I wear contacts for astigmatism, and I shoot with my right eye (left eye closed). I find after shooting it takes about a half hour for my left eye to un-blur - the only thing I can think of is that while I'm shooting with right eye, the left lens is spinning around the wrong way, and has to unspin itself. While it doesn't affect my work, its annoying to drive between locations this way!</p>

<p>anyone else experience this?</p>

<p>@ William W: I know.. the bride has requested it.. she figures she is requesting wedding photography, she should have photos of her ceremony. The church has ok'd video but supposedly not photos. Obviously I won't make scene, but I'm going to shoot as much as I can until I get the stank-eye-stop-shooting-in-my-church stare. I'm hoping if I'm not too obtrusive that that won't happen....</p>

<p>@ William:<br>

"PS: What specifically is wrong with your 50/1.8?" Nothing wrong with it, I guess I just dont trust it to be 100% accurate, it is fairly new as well so I haven't played with it enough to have a working relationship with it so to speak ;)</p>

<p>Also - the comment about most pros using flash: this one wedding in particular, the minister has actually said no photos at all. I plan on shooting without a flash until she actually stops me.</p>

<p>Wow thanks everyone for the advice! <br>

I have a canon 28-135, canon 70-300, canon 50mm 1.8 (wouldn't trust this one for a wedding, as its just plastic), sigma 2.8 24-70, and a canon fisheye 2.8 15mm<br>

I just went back through the past couple weddings I've shot and quite a few shots were at 2.8... I'm thinking I'm going to go with my gut, and get the 2.8 24-70l for my 5dmk2, and when I upgrade the second gun from a 40d to a 5dmk2, I'll probably get the 24-105 for my second shooter.</p>

<p>So I'm needing to replace my Sigma 24-70 lens, and I'm shooting on a 5D Mk ii. Went to the camera store and they were sold out of Canon Lseries 24-70, but the sales guy tried to push the 24-105 (f 4.0). He said that the image stabilisation was better than getting hte 2.8 24-70. What are your thoughts? I have a lot of weddings in dim-ish churches, I think being able to go to 2.8 is better than 4.0.... is hte IS really worth it on a 24-70 lens?<br>

I'd appreciate input and opinions, as I don't want to drop 1400 on a lens to regret not getting the other model...</p>

<p>Wow. I have to say I'm a little speechless at how much help & advice has been offered here. Where I live it seems like a you-know-whatting contest if you even think of asking for help...... I'm printing this off and heading downstairs to the basement studio to figure this all out. a HUGE THANK YOU to all who have offered their help here :)</p>

<p>Harry. Everything is on Ch1, and standing in line with transmitter. The issue isn't that theyr'e not firing, its that they're not firing consistently. how do I turn the fricking ettl on the transmitter off? that's got to be it :(</p>

<p>Heres the strange thing:</p>

<p>If I shoot zoomed all the way out, the flashes meter at f5.6. If I stand in the same place and zoom in, then they meter at f1.0. This leads me to believe that ETTL is somehow interfering, as I want one level of light no matter how much I zoom or move around the room (don't I?)<br>

I was hoping to resolve this using the st-e2, as it was a wedding gift :S</p>

<p>Hi!<br>

I'm hoping someone can help me with this. I have 2 canon speedlites, 2 umbrellas, a canon speedlite transmitter st-e2, and a Canon 5D mk 2.<br>

I set up both speedlites at 45 degrees on either side of me, to light the subject, and the umbrellas to light the background.</p>

<p>Here is my problem:</p>

<p>when I set my light meter to ISo 200 and speed 60, and press the pilot light on the speedlight meter to get a test shot, I get a reading of F5.6. Perfect!<br>

But, when I then go to actually shoot at 60 / 5.6 / iso200, I get a reading of about 1, or an error message.</p>

<p>Shouldn't the transmitter fire the same strength on a test shot as when I'm actually shooting?</p>

<p>*note* the ETTL light turns on the transmitter when shooting, and I can't turn it off, even though I have both speedlites set to manual and slave....</p>

<p>Any insight would be greatly appreciated!</p>

<p>PS - the flash is not on the camera, I have a Canon Speedlite Transmitter ST-E2 to trigger the two speedlites, each placed like the photo above with softboxes.</p>

<p>:)</p>

<p>Thanks everyone for your replies.<br>

To clarify, I have been using a setup like this:<br>

<a href="http://i.ehow.com/images/a05/ih/je/isolate-model-white-background-1.3-120X120.jpg">http://i.ehow.com/images/a05/ih/je/isolate-model-white-background-1.3-120X120.jpg</a><br>

I'm thinking, after reading all of the replies, that the opus lights are the problem - they're just not strong enough to light my background 2 stops higher than the subject....<br>

Thanks for the info on the metering - I use a Sekonic L358 =)</p>

<p>Thanks again everyone</p>

<p>Also - what kind of bulbs would you recommend for the ceiling instead of CFL? I'm in a basement so it would be pitch black without them, since I have no modelling lights...</p>

<p>Thats what I tried at first, and while the subject is properly exposed, the backdrop looks gray, even when setting custom WB :S</p>

<p>Hi there!</p>

<p>This is my first post, so hopefully I'm not breaking any kind of ettiquitte here or stepping on any toes by asking this:</p>

<p>I have 2 canon 580 speedlights (one is just 580, the other is 580 ii), 2 opus "beginner" slave activated 40W/S flashes, 2 unbrellas, and 4 stands. <br>

I'm shooting on a Canon 5D mk II.<br>

I'm in a basement with 2 overhead lights that I have put white CFL bulbs into, they line up pretty evenly on the backdrop (about 3 feet out from backdrop and on almost the edge of each side of a 12ft white backdrop).</p>

<p>If you were going to set up seamless white, how would you do it with this gear? Would you use the speedlights to light the backdrop and the slaves to light the subject?</p>

<p>Any input/advice would be appreciated! thanks! </p>