sina_khorsand

<p>Hey guys- <br>

I'm having a bit of a problem. In cold weather (like right now its 50 degrees F), my RB67 Pro S doesn't like to fire properly. I notice that the shutter closes, but stays closed because the mirror doesnt flip up to activate the shutter. I usually have to cock and fire the damn thing multiple times before it actually manages to fire. Whats odd is, that even in really cold weather, if I take the back off it fires perfectly. Only when the back is on in cold weather does the mirror have trouble flipping up and activating the shutter. So, you guys know of any solutions? What part of the camera would I lubricate?<br>

Also while I'm at it:<br>

I'll be going to Lake Tahoe, Ca this weekend. Temperatures will reach as low as 15 degrees F. I'm planning on doing star trails, leaving the shutter open for at least 4 hours. Should I be worried about my shutter sticking/freezing open, or my mirror freezing up? And what about condensation forming on the lens, what is a good way to prevent that?</p>

<p>Thanks!!<br>

-sina<br>

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/57709377@N08/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/57709377@N08/</a></p>

<p>Hey guys-<br /> I just encountered a problem with my canon 24mm FD lens. The lens mounting/unmounting button that is used to remove the lens has fallen off. <br /> Looks like this:<br /> <a href="http://i.imgur.com/XVVYh.jpg">http://i.imgur.com/XVVYh.jpg</a></p>

<p>With this gone, I don't know of a way to remove the lens from my A1. Have any of you guys had this problem, or know of a fix?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses guys,<br>

So the pin mechanism on the revolving back that presses the double exposure prevention lock is missing. This shouldn't have an affect on the shutter lag. I think the problems is with the bigger pin on the body that presses the revolving back pin. I think it was bent, and I tried bending it back. So far, no shutter lag. <br>

Thanks for the help!<br>

-Sina</p>

<p>Hey guy,<br>

So I've been having problems with my RB67 Pro-S.<br>

Here's the deal: When the RB has the back on, most of the time when I release the shutter I hear the mirror slap, then sometimes it takes about a second or so for the shutter to actually release. The shutter releasing is not consistent, sometimes it takes up to two seconds, and sometimes it fires as it should. Here's the weird part- when I remove the 120 back, the shutter ALWAYS fires immediately with no lag, but with the back on, the firing is inconsistent. If I have the back on, and If I am using a shutter release, I activate the mirror to slap up, and there is delay. Only when the mirror is completely up then I am able to release the shutter with the shutter with the shutter release. So it seems that there is a mechanism in the revolving back that fully actuates the mirror, which then releases the shutter. I think the delay is maybe caused by a problem with the revolving back, and not the back itself (because this shutter delay happens with both of my backs), and is definitely not the lens because it happens with both my lenses. <br>

Does anyone have any clue to what the problem could be? </p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Sina</p>

<p>Hello<br>

I wanted to get a few different Neutral Density filters to fit my Cokin P series mount. The actual cokin ND filters are a little to expensive for me, and they only reduce up to 3 stops of light. So I looked on ebay and saw some ND16 P mount filters, which would reduce 4 stops of light. <br>

Heres an example of one:<br>

<a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ND16-Neutral-Density-Filter-Cokin-P-series-New-/180703003094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a12bd01d6">http://cgi.ebay.com/ND16-Neutral-Density-Filter-Cokin-P-series-New-/180703003094?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a12bd01d6</a><br>

Does anyone have experience with these cheap filters? Would stacking a couple of them give you good results? <br>

*I am using a Mamiya RB67 with an off brand cokin P mount. <br>

My goal is to reduce the amount of light entering my RB67 anywhere from 6-12 stops. Would it be better to buy 2 cheap ND16 filters, and stack them? Or should I avoid stacking ND filters altogether? <br>

I basically want to reduce the most amount of light possible, while sustaining good quality, all at an affordable cost. If you know of anyway to do this, please let me know. </p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Sina.</p>

<p>hello all<br>

I am planning on doing a photo collaboration with a friend of mine using 120 film. I want to shoot a whole roll of 120 film through my RB67, roll it up, and give it to him, so he can re-shoot the same role. We are interested to see what kinds of double-exposures we could get. <br>

I know its possible to do this with 35mm, but is it possible to do this with 120 film?</p>

<p>Thanks!</p>

<p>and here is part of the email the client sent us, a little more detail on her expectations:<br>

"We will probably want some photos taken before the wedding of the bridal party getting ready as well as the groomsmen (My fiance and I do not want to see each other until the ceremony). Then, we'll have the ceremony, which will last about 20 minutes (photos throughout). After, Chris (my fiance) and I would then like to take photos together while the rest of the guests enjoy a cocktail hour. We really like spontaneous, photojournalistic looking shots rather than the traditional posed stuff. Obviously, shots of people looking "spontaneous" take plenty of orchestrating I'm sure but we would probably like to take a little walk through some scenic spots to get the look we're going for. Then, we would love some pics of our families and all the guest on the steps of the lodge. Then, any time you have left would be reserved for shooting the reception, which will be a great big dinner followed by dancing."</p>

<p>Thank You Nadine. <br>

I just want to comment that the clients expectations are not very high. She knows that this is our first gig, and she is looking for something affordable. But, I still want to approach this in a very professional manner, so I am going to strive to do my best, and some of the photographs that inspired me were of that Twins Lens.<br>

The bride emailed me, and she said she imagines shots like this would look great:<br>

<a href="http://www.oncewed.com/38251/wedding-blog/real-weddings/romantic-garden-wedding/">http://www.oncewed.com/38251/wedding-blog/real-weddings/romantic-garden-wedding/</a><br>

I would like to address the B&G photos from the example above, when they are walking through the forest. It seems like the photographer who took those photos used a minimal amount of flash for the outdoor shots. Correct me if I am wrong. <br>

Thank You.</p>

<p><img src="http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee439/sinakhorsand/chinaskifinalresized.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee439/sinakhorsand/nickandtrain.jpg" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i1227.photobucket.com/albums/ee439/sinakhorsand/GLR.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Lately I havent had time to photograph some of the ideas I have in mind, but heres some stuff I like to shoot. Printed and scanned out of my bathroom.<br>

--> not letting me upload images?</p>

<p>Twin Lens has been known to use a mamiya C330, and possibly even an RB. I dont know about 35mm though. <br>

I have been doing MF photography for some time now, and been using my RB for under a year. I run a little darkroom out of my bathroom, and I have experimented with plenty different types of 400 films. I have never really had a light meter, so I have gotten used to determining the exposure levels myself, and I am pretty proficient at doing it in most outdoor, sunlit settings. Im not great at metering ambient and indoor lighting off the top of my head, thats why I am renting the sekonic 358 to get accurate results. I have only been working with my flash for a few months now, and I havent really practiced fill flashing before. But I have some time to get used to fill flashing with the film I will be using, since the wedding is in July. <br>

The couple that hired us know what they're getting themselves into. I posted an ad on craigslist for affordable wedding photographers that wants to shoot their first wedding to build a portfolio. Being my first wedding, I am only looking to make enough money just to cover the costs of the rental equipment. <br>

Im pretty confident that with my partner's help using the Mark II, along with another friend filming, and me using the RB we can surpass the B&G's expectations. <br>

I just wanted to cover all the corners, and chat with more experienced photographers before I make any decisions. <br>

Thank You.</p>

<p>From what I have gathered so far, I think I'm going to shoot the whole wedding in color, and then change some of the selected shots to black and white. So most likely I will have two backs loaded with color. I think Bob had a good point in advising that. Anyone think its a good idea?<br /> I am stuck between whether to shoot Kodak Portra or Fuji Pro. Nadine you mentioned how Portra is harder to work with due to the lack of versatility of exposure. Would you then recommend Fuju Pro indsead? At first I was thinking Portra NC 400 for the outdoor shots, and VC 400 for the indoor shots. Since the B&G have requested more "spontaneous", natural looking shots, I will be focusing less on the standard portrait shots, and more on the artsy, vivid shots. Thats why I think Im going to be working mostly with my 50mm wide angle for the RB.<br /> Im going to be using my vivitar 283 with a diffuser, which I am not too worried about because like Marc said, with the RB its more about quality over quantity, so I wont be constantly flashing everywhere. My friend with the Mark II can go for quality and quantity hah, without the use of a flash for indoor photography as well since he can easily bump up his iso. <br /> I have a left hand grip and a strap for the RB, so I wont have to lug the outfit around on a tripod the whole time, even though I will most likely be using one right after the ceremony when the B&G have their walk through the redwoods. These are the shots I really want to pull off well. And im stuck between whether to use 800 iso without flash, or 400 with fill flash for this specific redwoods scene. Im leaning towards using fill flash with a diffuser:<br /> I will also have a sekonic L358 handy at the time of the wedding. Would this light meter work out well with my outfit? I heard you can plug the 283 into this light meter via PC cord to get a reading. Or, for the redwoods scene with solely the B&G, do you think I would be better off metering the background, stopping down 1-2 stops, and using the 283's less powerful flash mode (with a diffuser) to fill the foreground and B&G? I envision that this would make the B&G have more contrast with the background/scenery. <br /> I very much admire the work of Twin Lens photography, a couple who use digital/medium format, and thats the kind of work I am striving to get. <br /> Let me know what you think:<br /> <a href="http://www.twinlensimages.com/">http://www.twinlensimages.com/</a></p>

<p>I cannot express my gratitude for all of you who have responded to my request for advise.<br /> Thank You.</p>

<p>Hello all<br>

My friend and I are going to be shooting our first wedding in July. The setting is in the redwoods, and the ceremony will be taking place in ring of Redwood Trees. I believe the reception will also be taking place outdoors, and a coktail/after party indoors. <br>

My friend and I are taking a film/digital approach to shooting this wedding.<br>

I will be using my Mamiya RB67, I have a 50mm and a 90mm lens along with two 6x7 backs. I plan on using one back for color, and one back for black & white so I can alternate between styles. I also own a vivitar 283 flash. <br>

My friend will be renting a Canon 5D Mark 2 with along with a vivitar 285hv. <br>

So we are nervous about doing this, and any advise we can get would be highly appreciated, specially about using the RB:<br>

Such as what types of film and film speeds should I be using with my RB? I was thinking something like Kodak Porta 160NC, along with TMAX 400. Is it necessary for me to use higher ISO film such as 800 for indoors? Should I really try to limit my flash use? <br>

My RB also doesnt have a light meter, and I dont want to risk under/over exposing my photos of the wedding, so what kind of light meters are recommended that I can use with my vivitar 283? I have no experience with a hand held light meter. <br>

Again, any advise/help would be appreciated.<br>

Thank You</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Hello<br>

I recently purchased an RB67 Pro S, and it came with a 645 back.<br>

Is anyone willing to sell a 120 6x7 back? I see some on ebay for around 80 dollars but that is a little bit out of my budget. The back doesnt have it be in excellent condition, but a darkslide is preferred.<br>

let me know<br>

thanks<br>

sina.</p>

<p>Update:<br>

I took a look at the sliding latches on the back. I noticed how they activated the 2 small tabs on the right of the rev back. When i move the tabs up and down with my finger, they don't feel as smooth or as springy as they should be. Could this be the cause of the mirror flap lag? Is there a way to restore the snappy spring action of the 2 metal tabs on the rev back?<br>

Thanks guys for all your help. Much appreciated. </p>

<p>Im using a 645 back. Its not motorized, and completely mechanical. <br>

When I take the lens off, and look inside the camera with the back on, there is still noticeable lag. I see now that the mirror flap is composed of two separate pieces.. Theres the mirror portion, and then the black flap right under the mirrror. When I release the shutter, the mirror goes up instantly, but its the black flap right under the mirror that is delayed. Sometimes it flaps up with the mirror instantly, and sometimes it takes up to half a second before flapping up after the mirror has been up. <br>

So if I just take the back off, and leave the revolving part on, the lag is fixed. The black flap and the mirror both flip up like they should. But putting the back on makes the lag inconsistent again. <br>

The back seems to rotate smoothly, and the back seems to be locking on right.<br>

The strange thing is that sometimes, even with the back on, the lag isn't prominent. Its very inconsistent. Is there any kind of lubing I can do to the rev back or the springs to make it function smoother?</p>

<p>Hello<br>

I have owned my RB67 Pro S for some time now. Recently, it has been acting a little funny on me.<br>

Usually, after I depress the trigger, the shutter releases instantaneously. Now, there is some lag. It is not associated with the lens, but with the mirror. The mirror flap now has a delay that ranges between 1/4 to 1 second, and after the mirror flaps up the shutter instantly releases like it should. So something is causing the mirror flap up to lag.<br>

When I take the back of the RB, the lag vanishes. It seems to be in perfect working order. But when I put the back back on, the lag comes back. Most of the time, there is 1/2 second lag, sometimes a 1 second lag, and sometimes absolutely no lag with the back on. <br>

Has anyone ever encountered this problem?<br>

Any help would be appreciated.<br>

Thank You,<br>

Sina.</p>