tak_l_jasper_poon

July 17, 2012

Hi, Geoff, many thanks indeed, it is very useful. I wonder if DHW has any plans to produce an updated manual for the new instruments. Tak.

July 9, 2012

Dear David, i have this lens with me at this moment and i am playing with it. it really takes 67mm extension tube plus adjusting the focusing ring to 500mm (= helical extension of around 20mm) to get to 1:1. (= a total extension of around 90mm)

the bellows unit can surely be used. but since the shortest extension when all the bellows are compressed is exactly 67mm, you would not have the field from 75mm to 140mm. for this range of field you need the 34mm extension tube. the bellows can give you extension from 67mm to slightly over 200mm.

even if you can find a 45mm extension tube (which does not exist for Rollei) you need 45mm extension from the helical extension part of the lens. this is not possible.

indeed, the lens does not really get you down to 1:2 without extension tubes. 1:2 magnification is most easily provided using a 34mm extension tube and setting the focusing distance at around 1000mm.

the best companions for this lens are one 34mm and one 67mm extension tubes. that will give you continual variation of magnification from 1:infinity to around 1:0.7 (stacking both tubes together).

you may refer to my thread mentioned above to get all the intermediate steps of adjustment.

Cheers,

Tak

July 9, 2012

please also see this thread:

<a href="00Wb93">http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/00Wb93</a>

July 8, 2012

Dear David,

QG's answer of 45 mm is wrong.

i have personal experience using this lens. in fact if you search this site, i have a very detailed table on the field, magnification and exposure compensation.

tele extension is not extension tube. tele converter cannot get you to 1:1 and 1.4x longar cannot be used with this lens because the back elements is protruding too much and will damage the Longar.

however, there is no problem with extension tubes or bellow extensions. as long as 6000 system tube is used. when older versions are used, you would lose the stop down function. but still the lens can be used.

to go to 1:1 magnification ration, the image distance = object distance = 2x focal length.

that means you need 90mm x 2 = 180mm of image distance.

given that the lens to film distance at infinity is already 90mm, you need an extra 90mm to get to 1:1.

the lens' own helical extension gives you about 25mm of extension. therefore you need a 67mm extension tube. you then set the focusing scale to 500mm. that would give you 1:1.

the exposure compensation will be 2 whole stops.

the image distance is slightly less than 180mm from the lens, but not from the filter rim, because the lens sits in a recess inside this rim.

cheers,

Tak

June 9, 2012

John, your picture is very nice, the clouds actually enhanced the aesthetics of your shot. it looks like the fireball was riding on waves. Tak

June 9, 2012

Dear friends, thank you all for your kind words. it has been fortunate for me to get the cooperation of the clouds here. it is usually difficult as it is the monsoon season here. right now at the moment it is lightning and heavy rain outside my window. the story started 2 years ago when there was a great solar eclipse i wanted to take photo of. but with all the stacking it was still too bright. so i spent a whole month and several rolls of films with trial and error to get the perfect exposure value for the sun. the final 2 ND8 filters were the most difficult to acquire. 95mm filters are basically non-existing. finally i ordered a custom made 95mm to 85mm stepdown ring and bought a 85mm to 72mm stepdown ring from a camera flea market. the filters were of 72mm. then i waited for the next solar event. the next eclipse occurred behind clouds. this one was perfect. as for support, frictional heads cannot do the job as the camera invariably sags a bit once you tighten the knobs. and in a fraction of a second the sun also drifts away from the field. gear head is the only solution. i use manfrotto neotec pro tripod and a 400 gear head. Cheers, Tak

June 8, 2012

i have to clarify here:

the lens was a 300mm f/4 plus two 2x units and three 1.4x units stacked together. the aperture was set on the lens as 18. ND16 was 2 ND8 stacked together. I can take the photo but the quality actually left much more to desire.

Cheers,

Tak

June 8, 2012

This snapshot was taken with a modest automatic from the original slide on a lightbox. The slide was taken with:

Camera: Hy6

Film: Provia 100 220

Format: 6x6

Lens: 3300 mm

Aperture: f/200

Filter: ND16

May 9, 2012

there is also Hy6 which can give you both 645 and 6x6 formats. you can preload films in separate inserts that can be conveniently dropped in the film back. Tak

April 30, 2012

Manshing and Wingshing are sister companies and are also very reputable. but they are far from my office so i had not bought films from them.

however, the company that i recommend does not have 220 films. they only have 120. that would be a problem if you do not want to change films so frequently.

but i doubt whether you could find 220 films anywhere in Hong Kong.

Tak

April 26, 2012

i bought nearly all my films here:

Photo Scientific Co.

Ground floor, 6 Stanley Street, Central, Hong Kong

Tel: +852 25250550

<a href="mailto:photopoon@netvigator.com">photopoon@netvigator.com</a>

Honest people, reliable supply (not outdated products). they have E100G, provia 100F (120 and 4x5) and some others. However, choices are limited, and shrinking, as you may expect everywhere in the world.

if you come to HK, take the underground railway to Central station, exit at exit #G, and the shop is 3 minutes walk away.

enquire before you arrive.

hope this helps.

Tak

March 20, 2012

the set comes with one 4560 film insert. it is optional to acquire extra inserts. of course it cannot use 6x6 inserts. if it is available new, the set comes in with the following items included:

1. 4560 film back (batteries usually included, but check voltage, they may be aged)

2. adapter for the magazine

3. 4560 insert

4. ground glass mask with darkened corners for you to estimate the 6x45 field if you do not have 4560 grid lines on your ground glass (even if you have gridlines, this mask is very useful)

you have to remove a square frame at the back of the body to insert your adapter. of the 4 items above, only the adapter cannot be used with Hy6.

Cheers,

Tak

March 6, 2012

Dear Ingemar,

' if put in the hands of someone who doesn't know how to take advantage of its capabilities, the end result becomes mediocre at best and pointless most of the times.'

I agree with you entirely on this point. but my statement that you only partially quoted was actually a CONDITIONED statement. I explicitly said that:

'everything being equal (....), a better performing lens does make a better picture.'

when i do photography i pay extreme attention to the composition, lighting, colour, and of course content. but i would also choose to use the best lens that i can afford.

Tak

March 5, 2012

this may be a bit off topic, but i find nothing wrong focusing on equipments at least some of the time. it can even be a hobby in its own right. as for me, i really find that an enjoyable activity. finally, everything being equal (the same photographer, the same composition etc), a better performing lens does make a better picture (why not?). the difference may be small but it exists. cheers, Tak

February 23, 2012

<a href="../bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?topic_id=23&msg_id=000nCc">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?topic_id=23&msg_id=000nCc</a>

<a href="006IJ3">http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/006IJ3</a>

also contain some useful info. Tak

February 23, 2012

it was mentioned in this thread:

<a href="../medium-format-photography-forum/001nYn">http://www.photo.net/medium-format-photography-forum/001nYn</a>

Tak

February 6, 2012

Thanks Jan and Ferdi for the discussions and clarifications. these are things i am not too sure myself. My 6008i-1 and AF were stored up. I shall try to get them out this weekend and check with these details.

There is one more point in the fine details: they have different silent modes. In the i-1, the silent mode is such that when you press the shutter release, it shoots and holds. when you release the shutter release, the mirror comes down and film advances. in the AF, the silent mode is a slow and thus quiet movement of the whole uninterrupted process.

cheers,

Tak

February 3, 2012

this is my 6008AF with voltage adapter.

<a href="../photo/6949373">http://www.photo.net/photo/6949373</a>

February 3, 2012

Congratulations Ferdi, for making such a comprehensive chart. I would like to add 2 cents here:

1. I am not sure if the master control unit can be used with the I2 or AF. I have never tried it though I have it. The AF or I2 requires a software installed on your computer and a special cable to connect to your camera for control and programming.

2. an earlier version of integral has (as far as I can remember, not 100% sure) an unremovable pressure frame on the body for 6x6 so that the 4560 adapter cannot be attached.

3. car battery lead can actually be used with the I2 or AF, if you can find the DC adapter. but this thing was already out of production when they launch the AF. This DC adapter looks like a normal battery with internal electronics that can turn 12 - 18 V DC to the standard 9.6V usable by the camera.

i will try to post a photo of the AF with this adapter later.

Cheers,

Tak

January 6, 2012

Hi Matteo, i have read this a few days ago, not sure if it has been normal now. i am not familiar with 6003. but i vaguely remember i had a similar problem with my 6008SRC. the problem, it turned out to be a bad battery, but curiously, the battery indicator did not showed up. i changed a battery and it returned to normal. there is a possibility that the returning mechanism is a little bit worn out and it does not respond as promptly and got stuck when the voltage is not enough. Tak.

January 4, 2012

Hi Richard, error 5 means mirror drive malfunction. is your mirror working normally? have you tried locking up the mirror and firing, and does the mirror returns normally? if you have the error after every shot, a possibility is that the mirror return mechanism is not working too well. sometimes the mirror movement is slowed or slightly defective but the difference may be imperceptible. however, continued use in such cases may finally lead to accelerated wearing out in the moving parts. Tak

January 3, 2012

This occurs when the AF function of the lens is not responding. it can be due to lens error or bad contact between the lens and body or either side of the adapter. try cleaning the contacts and see. if the AF function of the camera body is not functioning you would get error 6. if the error does not occur when the lens is attached directly to the body, then the fault is likely at the adapter. it is possible that the soldered wires inside are broken, especially if it had been opened before. by the way do you mean Longar-AF tele-adapter? cheers. Tak

PS

you can download a full manual here for all 6008 models:

<a href="http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rollei_rolleiflex_6008/rolleiflex_6008.htm">http://www.butkus.org/chinon/rollei/rollei_rolleiflex_6008/rolleiflex_6008.htm</a>

January 3, 2012

the focusing screens between Hy6 and 6008 are interchangeable. i am also using my old maxwell grid screen with my Hy6. Tak

December 8, 2011

i would like to contribute 2 pennies here. i am not familiar with Nikon flashes. but most flashes designed for 135 format have a rectangular field of illumination. therefore if you zoom to 50mm (standard for 135), and use it on a square format camera, there is a possibility that the top and bottom part of your film is not illuminated by the flash. it would be better if you zoom your flash to 35mm (slightly wide for 135). you may want to experiment on your camera first by doing a test roll. Cheers. Tak

November 16, 2011

to all 6006 lovers, i must say it is still a great camera. it is when you compare it to much pricier 6008 that you find it lacking some features. so like any decision, it is a summation of all factors: features you want, your budget, how you plan to use it etc. during the few years i was using my 6006 it was a delight and a major upgrade from a former mechanical camera i had. Tak

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