charles_swanson1

<p>Buy a D50...<br>

I have had the D50, D70, D80, D90, 2 D200's, 2 D300's, a D2x, and just bought a new D7100 from Adorama.... But I will not be without my D50. I have my 5th now as a back up. Amazing image quality and low noise (beats everthing prior to the D90/D300). Great camera. It has the AF drive motor and is great with AF-D lenses. I also use it with AI and AI-s lenses (guess at exposure, but easy to preview). I'd buy a new one if they built it. Very under-rated dSLR. You can get one now for $120.00.</p>

<p>Thanks for the answers..</p>

<p>Thanks to all... I will probably get another 55 Micro-Nikkor AND and ext tube.</p>

<p>Can anyone tell me if the M2 extension tube can be used on the D300 without causing any damage?</p>

<p>Great info. Thanks so much M. Freeman</p>

<p>I am considering another 55 micro-Nikkor. I have had both the 3.5 and the 2.8 in the past. I have too many 50mm lenses, so I was considering getting a PK-13 and using it with my AI 50/f2, but I can't find, from any source, what the results would be. Does anybody know what reproduction ratio I could get with this combination? And, what would the resulting minimum focus distance be? Also, this is a second question... what results would be achieved with a reversing ring BR-2? I also have an AI 28/f3.5 and an AI 20/f4.<br>

I have called Nikon, but they eliminated the film support people that I used to rely on regularly. Now you are prompted to leave a message for a call back. But I can even get a call back. :(</p>

<p>I need a -2 diopter adjusting lens for my eyepiece. I can't find one for my FTb, but I did find one at Adorama for the EOS film bodies. Both are rectangular viewfinder eye pieces. Can anyone tell me if the newer EOS attachments fit the older FT/FTb eyepieces? Is the rectangular eyepiece on the body the same size as in all the Nikon bodies?</p>

<p>My near-mint condition 135/f2.8 Q has a very stiff focus ring. It is smooth stop to stop, but very stiff. I have grown to love this lens on my D300 (yes it is factory AI'd), and intend on keeping it. The question is Why is it stiff? Lack of use for years? Lubrication? What happens internally to make the focus become stiff? I've got lots of lenses, but this in the only one like this. Do I ignore it, as it it totally usable, or is there some problem that should be addressed?</p>

<p>Dont pass on a good FG-20. What ever you get, You will be happy.... because you've done you homework.</p>

<p>Another note - One little screw holds the frame in that supports the focus screen. This frame also has the mirror bumper foam on it. These old film cameras all need new seals and foam when you get them (unless sombody else replaced it), and the EM is the EASIEST camera I ever had to replace this on. And you can easily clean the focus screen while its out. I like a perfectly clean and clear finder, so I like a body that I can clean the screen on. 10 minutes and you have all new light seals and a pad. All film cameras should be like this.</p>

<p>Yes, you can add a corrective diopler eyepiece. Serveral for the EM are on ebay as we speak. Hard to find -2, -3. +2 and +3 are more common. It is simple apeture priority, but it is "live". Shutter speed will change as the light changes. Meter is active anytime the shutter button is half way pressed. It changes constantly. No lock. Some of the best photos I have ever taken have been with the EM. Even when I shot with an F3. I love the little thing. Hint - If you have lenses, buy one for 40-50 bucks with the Series E 50/1.8, then sell the 50/1.8 for 40-50 bucks and the EM is free. I think I actually made money on the last three I bought. (That is a good lens though)</p>

<p>The EM is even smaller than than the FM10.</p>

<p>Unless you just have to have full manual control, I would strongly suggest the EM. I use a Nikkormat FT2, anN8008s and a D300, but I always have an EM around - for the reasons you like, small and light. It can be stuffed anywhere in my digital bag so that I can put something on film if I want. I have had the FM-10 once, while I have had several EMs. I can say for sure that it is better built. Every time I decide to get rid of the EM, I find myself buying another. New foam and it's good for anything. The EM can be had on ebay any day for $20.00. What a deal. Great little camera.</p>

<p>Unless you really need true MACRO, don't forget the simple answer. 70-200mm f4-5.6. Beautiful results with gorgeous OOF backgrounds. I have used everything suggested and they are all good options, but the photos I like best are from my AF 70-210 f4-5.6. I also have the 70-210 F4 and a 200 AI-S F4. Yes, I also have a Micro-Nikkor 55 and an AF 35mm F2. Still, after using them all, if I'm headed out for plants and flowers, I grab my AF 70-210 f4-5.6. Maybe it's just me. Idk.</p>

<p>Can somebody please tell me if the tripod collar is completely removable from the lens body of the AI Nikkor 300mm f4.5. I have looked on the net, and in Nikon's archives. It looks to be removable, but I'd like to be sure. It is not clealy said anywhere.<br>

Thanks in advance.</p>

<p>I will prob catch crap for this, but the old D50 is my suggestion. I have a D300 now, Have had almost everything else. But the D50 still has equal image quality as the D300... (I will catch crap for that I know, but it's true).... It actually makes me upset. It will not meter with non-CPU lenses, but it's digital, so you can play with settings and quess until you find the right exposure (delete) then shoot away. The D50 can be had in mint condition for 180.00. Great little DSLR. The SONY 6MP sensor was great. Not so great auto-focus, but who cares shooting manual. For the record.... Ive had D50, D70, D70s, D80 (2), D90 (2), D200 (3), D2X (1), D300 (2) and too many to list Nikon Film cameras... and I still use a mix-match set of AI, AI-s, AF, and other lenses on all my bodies. Still use an FT-n and FT-2 all the time too....HAVE FUN</p>

<p>I have had so many AF zooms, and I'm never really happy. I LOVE the size and performance of the AI 200/f4, but I am a little concerned about manual focus on the D300 with a telephoto. I use manual short AI lenses on the D300 all the time, but subjects are close and bright. Before I buy another AI 200/f4, does anybody have experience with this lens on a DSLR. It focus an issue?</p>

<p>I am considering a Miro-Nikkor 55 f3.5. I have had the 55 f2.8.<br>

My question is: What is the difference between a "P" and a "PC" version of this lens. Of the two I am considering, one is an AI'd "P", while the other is a factory AI "PC", which looks like the older "P". I cant find anything on the internet on the difference. I like both better than the newer modern look version AI of this lens.<br>

Any light on the subject would be appreciated.</p>

<p>Many thanks to all.... I purchased a mint condition AI-S 20mm f3.5. It will be used on all three of by Nikon bodies - D2x, FT2, N8008</p>

<p>Thanks to all. Answers appreciated. I am currently thinking I will add the 24mm to my bag, but also considering the 20mm f3.5. If anybody would like to take this thread for a slight turn, I would appreciate feedback on this as well. Is there really a big difference other than 20 vs 24?</p>

<p>I know the AI-s Nikkor 24mm f2.8 has CRC..... I am trying to determine if the older AI version of the 24mm f2.8 also had CRC...<br>

Thanks in advance to whoever answers this. The info seems to be impossible to find on the internet.<br>

CWS</p>

<p>I have had lots of Nikon bodies, but have never used a motor-drive. I just added an FE to my bag, and now have an MD-12 drive. My question is: When the MD-12 is attached to the body, can the unit be turned of and the film still be advanced manually with the advance lever?</p>

<p>I have used Garry's Camera Repair for CLA's on two A Series bodies and have been very very happy with the results, and he's inexpensive. Find him by Googleing.</p>

<p>I am looking for a good F4 (not that I need another body), and have found one that is "leader out modified". I have researched, and now know what this modification is, BUT..... I still dont know WHY one would make this modification. This is an easy question, but I don't have the answer. Somebody tell me.</p>

<p>To Ian Rance: The first version of the 35-80 D is just like the 35-70, ie.. metal mount, more solid, and looks just like the older 35-70 F3.3. I have this lens. I have also, in the past, had the cheapo plastic newer one. I really appreciate all the feedback, but I am really trying to get comparison info between the F3.3 35-70 and the F4 35-80D.<br>

To Mathew Brennam: I use this lens mostly for close-ups of plants/flowers, and often with a +4 on it.</p>