RickOpiekun

<p>Thanks to all for the input. Very much appreciated. I think I'm going to keep an eye out for the Surface Pro4 pricing and see when it drops a bit before I take the plunge. At the moment it's $1499 for the 16GB RAM configuration I'd like and that's without the keyboard cover. I hope there's a sale in the near future.</p>

<p>Rick</p>

<p>Hi Folks. Does anyone have any experience using a tablet computer for photo editing, either with Photoshop CC or Lightroom? While I have a full fledged desktop machine with a calibrated monitor and a notebook PC with 17" display, neither are conducive to travel or use in a place other than my office. I've used an ASUS tablet with an Atom processor and 2GB RAM with Nikon Capture and paint.net, but the system is very sluggish and you can't run Photoshop on that platform.<br>

Recently, I've been reading about the Surface Pro4 tablet from Microsoft. Granted it's pricey, but I think it might make a useful tool for editing photos as I travel or even lounge around. I'm not looking for the high end system, but was considering their Intel i5 version with 8GB or 16GB RAM and a 256GB SSD drive. That should allow me plenty of power to open RAW files and edit them on the road as long as I also take along an external hard drive. Additionally, the pen that comes with the tablet supposedly has 1024 levels of pressure sensitivity, so it would be a lot like using my Wacom tablet.<br>

Is this sound logic? Any thoughts? Advice is appreciated.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Hi folks.<br>

I've been using my Epson 3880 printer for about a year and love it. Prints in both color and black and white are really nice. Usually I print 8x10, 11x14, or 13x19 prints and have had no issues.<br>

Recently, for a special project, I've been using the Epson 17x22 luster paper in the "middle feeder" slot, just as I do for the other sizes of luster paper. In many instances the paper feeds in slightly crooked, so the large print looks skewed. This does not happen with the other sizes of paper. <br>

Is there a trick to getting that large sheet to stay perfect straight as it enters the printer? I have the guides properly adjusted, but that does not seem to matter. Can that paper be fed in through the rear feed slot or is that not recommended? Suggestions would be helpful since a wasted 17x22 print is a tad expensive.<br>

Thanks in advance for comments.<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Thank you, Shun. My image was under the 300kb filesize, but I believe I forgot to adjust the dimensions.<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Hi Folks - <br>

Just wondering why my image does not appear like the others. There is a hyperlink to it, but the image is not "live". What did I do incorrectly so I know for the future?<br>

Thanks,<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Great Egret Alights</p>

<IMG SRC="http://static.photo.net/attachments/bboard/00d/00dKri-557135384.jpg"><div></div>

<p>Thanks to all for your thoughts. I just sent an e-mail to Sigma asking for a more defined timeline for release of the contemporary model as well as some official specs. From what I know so far, the contemporary version is not fully weather sealed at it will be softer at the edges than the sport model. It's also supposed to be two pounds lighter than the sport version, and about half the price. I was very impressed with the sport version at the NYC photo expo, but it would be hard to carry the 6 pound behemoth around birding trails. I was impressed with the multi-focal length zoom lock and the 2 VC modes, neither of which are present on the Tamron. But I've seen real-world photos taken with the Tamron and they're not bad. Some are a bit soft at 600mm, but very usable. <br>

If I hear back from Sigma, I'll update the forum with anything new that I learn.</p>

 

<p>Hi Folks.</p>

<p>I was not sure if this was the correct forum in which to post, but it does involve my Nikon gear, so here it goes. Since I do bird photography and sports photography I am looking for a nice long lens that won't totally break the bank. I've been reading the reviews on the Tamron 150-600mm lens to use with both my D3 and my D7100 and the specs and results I've seen are pretty impressive. When I was at the photo expo in NYC last month, I got to see both lenses and notice that the Sigma had 2 different vibration compensation modes, one that is similar to Tamron and one that is "optimized" for panning shots where the horizontal VC remains engaged but not the vertical (that is what I understood, anyway). This intrigued me since you frequently pan when birding. Does it make sense to wait and see how the Sigma (contemporary model, not sport model) performs when it gets released or is the Tamron lens just as good? Any thoughts appreciated.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Hi Folks.<br>

I did not know if this forum or the digital darkroom forum was the most appropriate location for this post, so I opted to try here. I was wondering if anyone has or knows how to get the lens profile for the Nikon 80-200 f/2.8 lens into Photoshop. When I bring an image in to Camera Raw, one of the options I frequently use is the one for lens correction. There are profiles for my other Nikon lenses, as well as my Tamron and Tokina. However, I do not see the profile listed for the 80-200 Nikon. Am I just missing it or is there a place to get it? And....if I can get the profile file from someone, how do I install it into PS CS5 and CC?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for the advice.<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Thank you both for the quick responses. I guess I'll try CC to see how much I like the added features. Hopefully when I install Nik and Topaz for the CC version it will not adversely affect my CS5 installation and will just recognize that CS5 already has the plugins installed and leave well enough alone.</p>

<p>Hi Folks.<br>

I've been using PS CS5 for a few years and have gotten rather proficient with it. In addition, I have Nik and Topaz filter suites installed along with a few others. After attending a recent Kelby workshop in NYC where some PS CC features and techniques were demonstrated, I am considering subscribing to the PS CC Photographers Bundle to get the most recent PS CC, Bridge and Lightroom. However, my computer currently has PS CS5, Bridge and LR 4.4. I do not want to get rid of them. Can I install the PS CC Bundle on my computer, either on the same drive or another partition, without uninstalling CS5, Bridge and LR 4.4? <br>

<br />My second questions is about my Nik and Topaz filter suites. Will they be automatically recognized by PS CC on my computer and appear under the filters menu or will I have to run the installation on both suites to link them with PS CC? Would a re-installation of the filter suites for use with PS CC cause a problem with my current PS CS5 setup? In other words, if I have to install Nik and Topaz for CC would they now appear twice in the filters menu of my CS5 setup?</p>

<p>Thanks in advance for the help.<br>

Rick Opiekun</p>

Thank you all for the advice. Much

appreciated.

<p>Hi Folks.<br /> I am considering the purchase of a variable ND filter (Tiffen). My problem, like that of many, is that I have an assortment of lenses with different diameters. So, should I purchase the largest size variable ND filter and get a set of step down rings or do I purchase the smallest and step up? I want to minimize vignetting as much as possible, but I know it may be unavoidable. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Happy holidays to all!<br>

P.S. Posted this in the Nikon forum by accident. Sorry.<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Hi Folks.<br /> I am considering the purchase of a variable ND filter (Tiffen). My problem, like that of many, is that I have an assortment of lenses with different diameters. So, should I purchase the largest size variable ND filter and get a set of step down rings or do I purchase the smallest and step up? I want to minimize vignetting as much as possible, but I know it may be unavoidable. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Happy holidays to all!<br /> Rick</p>

<p>Hi Folks.<br>

I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the remote trigger that came with my old Nikon D70 is compatible with my new D7100. I would not want to do any kind of damage to the new camera by sending a signal from an incompatible remote. Then again, I don't know if one can damage a camera in that manner, but I don't want to learn a lesson the hard way. Any input much appreciated.<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

Rick</p>

Thank you both for the insights. I think

I'll stick with the Graphire for a while

until I see just how proficient I can be

with a tablet.

<p>I've finally decided to train myself to use a tablet input device in lieu of a mouse. So, I got out an old Graphire3 and connected it into my computer running Windows7 and PS CS5-64-bit. There is a bit of a learning curve since I only used the Graphire3 briefly 4-5 years ago with Elements. However, a few friends have mentioned that I should look into the Intuos4 since it is more responsive, has more features and handy hot keys. After reading the reviews, I am a bit tempted to ask Santa for the Intuos4 (small). This would just be for photo editing and not for painting or any type of graphic art application. <br>

So, I was wondering if there really is a great benefit to upgrading from the old tablet to an Intuos4. I know the Intuos has more pressure sensitivity control, supposedly a better surface and a more comfortable pen. But, can anyone tell me about other features and ease of use? Is it worth $199?<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

RickO</p>

<p>Well, I had a moment this evening to look at the gradations of gray scale and I have perfect discrimination of all 21 shades of gray. So, at least from a luminance standpoint, I think my display can be considered calibrated. Thus, this is not a monitor, monitor card, monitor driver or color workspace issue in my understanding of things. Unless I'm wrong, I should next contact Epson to see what they suggest.<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Thank you for the insights and the link to the article. I checked all of the settings in PS and in the camera itself to also make sure that I am working in the same colorspace and I am. I will check the monitor this evening to make sure that I see all 21 gray steps as indicated above. A few months ago I did a similar check and the monitor was spot on. I'll let you know of my findings. We've all found workarounds to getting our prints to look good despite these issues, but we should not have to work around routinely.</p>

<p>Here is an odd dilemma that I am experiencing with PS CS5 and my Epson R1800 printer. If I take an image and print it to my printer, allowing Photoshop to manage the colors, the image comes out 2-3 shades darker than what is displayed on my monitor. I have the correct paper profile selected and I turn off ICM in the print driver to make sure that the printer and Photoshop are not conflicting. However, if I tell Photoshop to allow the printer to manage colors and select color enhancement from the print driver, either Epson standard or Epson vivid enhancement with +3 brightness, prints are perfect and spot on to what is displayed on the monitor. Now I know the adage that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" usually applies to computers. However, this workaround seems a bit awkward. Are there a few settings that I should check in Photoshop to make sure they are correct? Colorspace? Etc.? Any insights would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance.<br>

Rick</p>

<p>Great timing for the question. I was in need of a faster card reader recently and purchased the Kingston 19-in-1 card reader from B&H (about $12). An 8GB high speed CF card transferred 500 images in under 4 minutes. It's very small and compact, has a USB cable extender included, it's USB 2.0 compliant and pretty well made. Just my 2 cents.</p>

<p>Rick O.</p>

<p>Thank you for the insights. If, in the Epson print menu I have ICM turned to 'off', then I presume that the printer color management is off and that PS will manage the colors since I have the color management setting set to 'Document'. Am I correct in this assumption?<br>

Rick</p>

<p>I've been trying to get a handle on the best way to send consistent output to my printer. When I allow PS CS5 to manage colors, there are instances when the prints come out of my printer quite a bit darker than they appear on screen. If I then switch to allowing the printer to manage colors, the prints come out fine. This happens about 75% of the time. The printer I use is always the same (EPSON R1800). The paper is always the same (Permium Luster). The monitor is calibrated. The colorspace I use is sRGB.<br>

If anyone uses an Epson R1800 or reasonably similar equipment, I'd love to know how to resolve this issue to save paper, time and nerves.<br>

Thanks in advance.<br>

Rick</p>