pete_ferling

<p>Mark, yes summers drawing to a close and that means: Fall leaves. :)<br>

Dave, nice shot of the castle. That building pops.<br>

Rolls of plastic stock in a yard at an industrial site that makes thermo-form trays.</p><div></div>

<p>Richard, I like the B-17. You must have some pull to get them to wet down the deck for the reflection. :) Nice capture of the bay by Jeff. Jake, your stormy sunset is awesome. So is James' HDR piece, (looks on fire). John's pier shot is a good moment. Like the Owl as well, Laura. I'm sure you folks spent some time gazing, taking it all in.</p>

<p>Nathan, I was pretty much a Bizzy Bee the last two weeks as well. (Unfortunately, it was helping a studio that hired me out a few times in the past shut down, putting all their gear on eBay and Craig s List). I needed a break and took a walk this morning and happened upon this busy fella. Fitting for my week.</p><div></div>

<p>Wheeeeee!</p><div></div>

<p><strong>A Curious Nature</strong>. My son scans the water for interesting creatures: fish, crawfish, and dragonflies.<br>

It's important that we both share and impart our experiences and pleasures of the world with our children. Less they have only memories of violent video games and cartoons.<br>

Canon 7D, Helios 44m, Tiffen Pol.</p><div></div>

<p>First. They are both cheap and have excellent builds when compared to modern equivalents.</p>

<p>Second. Many lenses once consider junk by film standards can be excellent with digital workflows that allow for sharpening.</p>

<p>Third. Many of these lenses will render looks we have become familiar with growing up.</p>

<p>Fourth. If you have a crop sensor you will gain the advantage of extra reach, while using the more sharper lens centers.</p>

<p>Finally, they can certainly can be a little more challenging, which adds more fun to your shoots and can raise the level of confidence as you become the real brains behind them. </p>

 

<p>If it does sport and APS-C sized sensor, then it could be nice toy to explore even more vintage lenses with an adapter. </p>

<p>Love is where the heart is :)</p><div></div>

<p>You spin me round... :)</p><div></div>

<p>Sun, Sand and HS Flash Photography with the kids. Ahhhhh.</p><div></div>

<p>In my opinion, for all the effort and hands that you will invest, you might as well go with MF vs. 35mm.</p>

<p>In some of my work, it can make the difference. I have shot in concerts with both a 28-135mm IS, and a 135mm f2L (no IS), and have shots with the cheaper kit lens that resulted in a higher ratio of keepers due to sharpness. In those conditions, all those qualities of having L glass didn't matter if I had to crank up the ISO a notch for the sake of a higher shutter speed to compensate.<br>

That experience was also the driving factor in picking up an EFs 17-55mm 2.8 with IS, as it also has L glass. Those two lenses cover the range I needed for events when using a 40d, (and is the reason I stuck with crop sensors and moved to a 7D as well). You find what works for you and stay with it.</p>

<p>Do an advanced search on eBay, and select the "completed" listings options to see what the items sold for. Then read the listings/descriptions of those whose lenses sold for the right price to see what their condition was and how they were presented/marketed. </p>

<p>Happy Egg Day!</p><div></div>

<p>The best camera and lens to use is the one you have in your hand when the moment strikes. Camera's are dumb recording tools, some better than others, but only record the image the photographer has already formed in his mind.</p>

<p>7D, Mamiya Sekor 55mm f1.8 with Tiffen HCE Vari-Close-Up lens.</p><div></div>

<p>Nice shot Brad.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><em>"The popular rule of thumb, if I'm not mistaken, would suggest that at 320mm, a 1/320 second <a id="itxthook2" rel="nofollow" href="../canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00ZMSH">shutter speed</a>"</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>That's for FF non-IS. For crop, add in the extra crop factor, so for the above example, at 1.6x, it would be a little over 1/500s. Secondly, that minimum will only counters hand shake. If the object moving, then you need to increase shutter speed accordingly. If you steady or brace yourself, hold your breath and squeeze it helps. If you fire a burst of three, and keep steady, the first shot will succuum to your downward shutter movement, and the second or third shot is usually better. </p>

<p>I will shoot my 7D's until they wear out (both are less than a year old), then get whatever is available when that times comes. In short, the 7D is doing the job well enough.</p>

<p>Sometimes sniping is the only way, and a reason why ebay provided the "one click" bid tool. There has been a surge in the popularity of using vintage lenses on 4/3rds, etc, and prices on otherwise cheap glass has hit the roof. Many times I will bid low to get onboard, then put my intended max price into the "one click" tool and fire away at the last few seconds. Many times the winning bid will be double what I consider it's worth. No loss for me. I just move on to the next copy and repeat. I can wait.</p>

<p>Hmmm. Wonder if the owner turned in the warranty card with the matching serial number? A little detective work made easy.</p>

<p>Thank you Dean, it was a site for tired eyes worn from a long day of studio lights.</p>

<p>Rob, nice work, and a good reason to always carry a camera. I have a similiar shot:<br>

http://photos.ferling.net/beacause_its_art/h5842349#h5842349<br>

I was on the beach shooting my kids while they played, and turned around to see where the sun had gone so quickly.</p>

<p>Oscar, nice capture as well. I have a thing for clouds, and prefer them much to solid blue sky.</p>

<p>Another week of shooting medical devices on a white sweep for catalog. Don't think anyone wants to see a bone cutters or aorta forceps. I'll submit this shot of the sunset on Jordan Lake, South Carolina, taken two evenings ago. Despite all the rain from last weeks storm, I surprised to see how low the lake was.</p><div></div>

<p>Jaeden and Livie.</p><div></div>

<p>+1 with Ken and Brad.</p>

<p>It a workflow issue, and expectations. Whether your are deliberate from the onset, or find yourself in a moment that you would expect to hit a decent 20x30 print. Then good technique, movement in the scene, enough lighting to keep at lowest ISO to have motion stopping shutter speed, etc. That's only half of it. We now have software and printing tools that extract a great deal of data, and create more perceived sharpness, even from what was otherwise junk antique lenses from the film days.</p>

<p>I look at my old film shots, from decent FD lenses, and I now have a second opinion when compared to my digital. Yes, those old 35mm prints are sharp, but only sharp as can be from the tools we had to deal with back then.</p>

<p>Granted, it's hard for some folks to understand just exactly what is possible now, when they have nothing to compare to how it was even ten years ago. Fortunately, many of our clients are not so well versed. I've sold many prints at 24" to customers whom never considered it was shot with a 40d and a kit lens.</p>

<p>Life is so much easier when you simply let this stuff go, and judge an image for how cool it looks.</p>