lcd

<p><img src="http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh637/lucadomi/7bac9458-a74b-4f72-ab1a-c4539b8984a3.jpg" alt="" /><br>

There she is after surgery. Looking great.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p><img src="http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh637/lucadomi/4a4561ab-6bda-4666-bde8-46daa1caf457.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Here is where I lifted one layer of glass wash in between</p>

<p><img src="http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh637/lucadomi/caa84cd8-949a-4538-b24c-f40cac56ed47.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="334" /><br>

The spots are not very visible in the picture but they are there .</p>

<p>Thanks John and Charles!<br /> I tried to follow your suggestions to the best of my skills.<br /> The spots were actually in between the two layers, so there was no way to just blow them away.<br>

I was able to remove the screen and take out the two spring clips.<br>

At this point I did not know how to take out the glass and I felt some resistance. So I just lifted the first layer and run some warm water through. I then dried with the dryer, gently. The spots are gone and the screen is nice and bright.<br>

I am going to post some pictures as soon as I remember how.<br>

Thanks both, it was a great help.</p>

<p> </p>

Yes, you're right. The screen is not removable, but I noticed that it is fairly easy to open it by unscrewing the four little screws that are

holding it down in place. So, I was able to access the dirty part of the glass. I was just wandering if there was a safe way of clean in it.

Thanks.

I have a new Autocord III camera that is in really outstanding condition.

The only problem are few dark spots, probably dust, on the lower side of the ground glass in the viewfinder.

I was able to open it and I tried to blow the dust away but it wont come off.

Is there a safe way of cleaning this without damaging the glass?

Thank you.

<p>Very nice!<br>

Maybe there is still hope for my Konica Auto S2.</p>

 

<p>I am definitely going to try the adjustable holders with the glass.<br>

It sounds it could be a very positive improvement for my scanning.<br>

Thank you!</p>

 

<p>Yes David, I guess a little more resolution would not hurt. Unfortunately dedicated scanners for 120 are very expensive for now, and I am not sure I will see a big difference with the V700 considering the size I print. Thanks.<br>

I see that the third party holder could be already a good improvement, also considering that I very often have problems with film that curls and does not stay flat. The V600 holders are not really the best. Thanks for the good tips regarding the workflow Michael!<br>

I do have few more question for you, since we are using the same scanner:<br>

Was it difficult for you to determine the correct height for the adjustable holders?<br>

Will the Epson software still recognize the 6x6 frame size authomatically?<br>

Thanks. </p>

<p>That's very interesting John.<br>

I was also trying to keep it simple. I actually don't particularly like scanning. I do like to see the results of my pictures. I think after all I will just work it out with my current scanner and find a simple workflow to get nice prints.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks Starvy.<br>

My impression is that my negatives are much better than what I get from the scans. It is true that I use the Epson software and I don't do much more afterwards. I guess I could improve the scanning with a better workflow. On the other hand a better scanner could make it a little easier for me to achieve the results I want.<br>

I would appreciate additional comments on the topic.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I am using the Epson V600 to scan my 120 film negatives and slides. I am fairly satisfied with it, considering that I don't print larger than 8X10.<br>

I now have a chance to buy a used V700 complete with holders for about $350 dollars. <br>

Do you think I will see an actual improvement? Will I be able to get more out of my scans with the V700?<br>

I know this was probably discussed before but I was not able to find a direct answer/comparison.<br>

Thanks for the help.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks Dan, that's a very interesting link. I will try.</p>

 

<p>Thanks JDM, sorry for the large file.<br>

John, It's true, Anastigmats are very often triplets. I was hoping this one would be better because mounted on an Automatic TLR, and because of the 3.5 aperture.<br>

Any other answer would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks.</p>

<p>I recently acquired a Semflex Oto II TLR camera. The lens is a "Semmar Paris Anastigmat 75mm 3.5".<br>

Is this a three or a four elements lens? I still have to test the camera but I hope this lens can give a Tessar type performance.<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p> </p>

<p><img src="http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh637/lucadomi/IMG_0716.jpg?t=1335231763" alt="" /><br>

<img src="http://i1255.photobucket.com/albums/hh637/lucadomi/IMG_0719.jpg?t=1335232117" alt="" width="300" height="400" /></p>

 

<p>I got it tonight. I actually like it. It seems to work quite well on both the Rolleiflex and the Diacord, and I like the gray color.<br /> It doesn't really lock in place but it is not loose. It actually has a better, slightly tighter fit on the Diacord. No problems with filters either. I checked at Bulb all open I cannot see the edges of the hood at all; so I am guessing it should work well with no vignetting. The difference in size with a standard hood is probably negligible.<br /> Thanks everyone for the good comments and suggestions.</p>

<p>Great tip Robert, I didn't think about that . Thanks.<br /> I will get the new hood at the beginning of next week. I will try it to see how it works<br /> And John, thanks for the offer. We'll see.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Definitely Mathew. Unfortunately I clicked too fast and bought this gray square metal hood. It was described as bay 1 and working on Rolleiflex, so I thought it could work on my Automat. I then found out online it is a bay 1 but for 4x4 TLR. I might have to resell it and buy a "real one".<br /> Thanks</p>

<p>The hood for the Yashica 44 camera is in Bay 1. It is slightly smaller in its size compared to the one for the 6x6 camera.<br>

Would this hood work for a Bay 1 Rolleiflex? I suspect it might cause vignetting problems and issues with filters. Does anybody have any experience with this?<br>

Thank you.</p>

<p>Lynn, I hope my experience with the Ikoflex 1 will be as good as yours with the 1A. The ikoflex 1 is probably a more simple version but the lens should be similar. I am surprise about your comments on the Hasselbled camera. I have never used one but it has many dedicated fans. The Mamiya TLR cameras look very interesting. I might look into trying a C220 sooner or later. My only concern is the size: they look a little less portable. Thanks.</p>

<p>I contacted Mark Hansen, and he was able to answer my questions (as David L suggested).<br>

Thanks everyone.</p>

<p>Thanks Dave. You're right, it actually looks more similar to the Ikoflex II but without exposure counter and a knob for focusing instead of a lever. What I found interesting about the camera was the Tessar 3.5 lens that seemed clean and possibly very good. I am going to read the Ikoflex II manual and see if I find the additional info I need. Thanks.</p>

<p>Thanks Fred, very good link. Unfortunately they don't seem to have the Manual for the Ikoflex 1 that is an earlier model. Thanks anyway.</p>

<p>I believe it is an Ikoflex 1. I plan to purchase the camera and send it to be serviced. I am now trying to understand the actual conditions of it. Does anybody know:</p>

<ol>

<li>Do you know if this camera needs to have film loaded for the shutter to operate at all speeds?</li>

<li>Do you know if the viewfinder needs to be open for the shutter to click?</li>

<li>Is this camera supposed to have a double exposure prevention mechanism? </li>

<li>On the left side of the camera there is only one large winding nob plus something that looks like a connection for the flash further down. Does this seems right or something is missing on this side?</li>

</ol>

<p>I would apreciate any help on this and any comment from Ikoflex Cameras users.<br>

Thank you.</p>