redphoto
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Posts posted by redphoto
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<p>I do not believe that the camera limits the size of the CF card. It doesn't know what size card you put in it. I would recommend not using cards over 8 Gb because of the risk of losing lots of images if the card fails or gets corrupted. Smaller cards, multiple cards, is a much better strategy.</p>
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<p>The 24-70 f/2.8 is the way to go. There are not good and bad copies of lenses out there. Often the problem is that people do not take the time to calibrate the lens to their camera. Every lens and camera is made with a very small tolerance range. Depending on the tolerance of your camera and the lens that you put on it, you can be right on or off. So if your camera is off -2 units and the lens is off +2 units, you will have a perfect combination. But is the lens is off -2 your system will not be off -4 and that will show as your auto focused images not having their focus on the proper area; ie front focused or back focused. It is easy to calibrate every lens on your camera using a target device like a Spyder Lenscal or a Lens Align unit. They are about $50-70 and you would micro calibrate each of your lenses. 'Bad' or 'off' lenses is mostly user error.</p>
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<p>Brightness will target more of the midtone values while exposure will act more on the highlight values.</p>
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<p>I have used the 24 TSE handheld without too many issues, but it is much easier to use on a tripod so that you can level things out precisely. I would recommend protecting it with a high quality UV filter, like B+W, slim. I always put good protective filters on all of my glass. You may have some vignetting with a circular polarizer. You will have to test it out.</p>
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<p>I don't think so. That is painted canvas, not muslin. There is a real texture difference between that and any paper that I know about.</p>
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<p>Both Mac and PC's are now being set to the same gamma of 2.2. As suggested you will need to calibrate them before they can match. Newer computer screens seem brighter. It might just be the LED technology. But you will never solve your issue without calibrating all of the hardware involved.</p>
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<p>You should have a written contract of some sort between you and the client clearly stating what images you will provide, how much you are getting paid, and the terms and limitations of their usage. Anything in writing, signed by both parties, where there is compensation involved, constitutes a written contract. I would suggest finding a boiler plat version online. Tad Crawford has a great book full of all types of legal contracts for photographers. The contract terms would apply to any subcontractors that your client chooses. You should be getting paid for your services and also for the usage of these images. You are right in thinking that $200 is too low. You will not really be making any money at this price point.</p>
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<p>Better material will last longer, but I do not think that you will see much of a difference in your images. A cheap light light might just break or tear in a month.</p>
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<p>Being a photojournalist is hard work. I do not think that those that go into it and get lucky enough to get a staff position are the 'chosen' ones. They are either skilled or lucky or both. Staff positions have all but disappeared because there is not enough money to support this important position. As more and more newspapers go digital and corporate, they look to cut costs. So what is happening in the PJ industry is just like what happened in the commercial photography industry when stock photography showed up. So there are less PJ shooters and the images get used by more people. In the end people who want to be photojournalists should do it because they fell strongly about social issues and effecting change. They do not do it for the money.</p>
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<p>There is definitely post production work going on with these. A digital camera would never record images like this straight out of the camera. They have been set up to produce flat, unsharpened images to get the most data during capture.</p>
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<p>You mentioned that a small aperture scares you, but I am not sure if you are talking about a small size aperture (f/22) or a small number aperture (f/2.8). Aperture is usually described by it's size, so small means a smaller size and a bigger number. Any flash that you have will be able to handle the aperture range of the lens. The shutter speed is not important for most flash situations. You just need to set the camera at or below its flash synchronization speed. On a Canon that is 1/200. The flash outputs the same amount of light regardless of the shutter speed. You should read up some more on the use of flash to better grasp the concept.</p>
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<p>The 7D will help solve your focus issues. Although the updated firmware on the 5D MkII should help also. You can adjust back focusing issues on your own if you buy a lens calibration device like the products made by LensAlign. I have written a post on my blog about dealing with focus issues that may help you. <a href="http://96.30.62.140/~redphoto/2010/10/lens-focusing-issues/">Lens focusing issues</a>. Selling all of the Canon gear to move over to Nikon does not make good sense. There is not that much difference between the two. Also, when the next generation 5D comes out next year the focus issues will be corrected.</p>
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<p>If the assistant took some photos, then they own the copyright to those photos and can control their usage. You have to get a contract stating otherwise. From what you described, she controls her images from the session.</p>
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<p>You situation is precisely the reason that I do not ask the couple for a shot request list. I take control of the event, from what I am going to photograph and when to selecting the final images and making the album. I found it really bad when I gave up control to people who were not experienced in these situations. And by doing everything my way the couple is less stressed out and know that they are going to get great products in the end. I believe in simplification. Good luck working it all out.</p>
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<p>It does not matter when you consider yourself a professional. If you are charging money for your photographs, you are by definition a professional photographer. As far as the portfolio goes, a website is a good place to start. I would create at least 12-15 good images to post before starting the site. You do not want to look like you just started out and only post a few images. On the other hand you don't want to misrepresent yourself. Start out slowly, keep photographing, and you will begin to build your portfolio and your website. Good luck.</p>
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<p>It could be some flare caused by long exposure or just a noise artifact from your sensor. The 5D was not the best with noise and long exposures.</p>
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<p>You really need to be evaluating your images on a calibrated monitor under good lighting conditions that are not too bright. The LCD screen on the camera is not very accurate, but it should not be that far off.</p>
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<p>Just using a wide aperture will not ensure that your background is totally blurred out. There are other factors that will get you there. You could use a faster lens with a wider aperture, get closer to your subject, or use more of a telephoto lens.</p>
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<p>A good carbon fiber tripod is what you are after. The Gitzo is a good choice. It is light and compact. You should be able to use your current head with that model.</p>
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<p>I just looks like digital noise. Use the lowest ISO possible. Try a program like Noise Ninja to reduce the noise. Or, if you are shooting in RAW, which you should be, there is noise reduction in the Camera Raw settings.</p>
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<p>Camera usage, flash usage, Photoshop workflow and retouching, photojournalism, business and marketing classes.</p>
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<p>I would recommend the 24-70 2.8 L. The lens has great quality and will give you the range that you need for landscape, portraits, and environmental portraits. The faster lens is easier to focus and higher quality. I would always go with the fastest lens you can get, and not just for low light situations.</p>
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<p>I think that color and contrast, dodging and burning, and minor dust and scatches fixes are fine. I would draw the line when you clone something in or out. In your image removing the thumb is no big deal, but there are many publications that draw a hard line against any kind of cloning accept for dust and scratches.</p>
Photoshop - What brush hardness do you use?
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted