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wang_erwin

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Posts posted by wang_erwin

  1. <p ><a name="00XGvv"></a><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1841065">JDM von Weinberg</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub5.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/3rolls.gif" alt="" /></a>, Sep 12, 2010; 02:58 p.m.</p>

     

     

     

    <blockquote>

    <p>Wow ! that is allot of money to pay for a f4.5/5.6 lens !</p>

    <p> </p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>True enough, but <strong><em>for the top-end focal lengths in question</em></strong>, and with IS on it, these are not exactly "slow" lenses either. There aren't a lot of 300mm f/1.4 lenses out there. :)</p>

    <p> </p>

     

    <p>well,IS dont means faster shutter speed in low light ;)</p>

  2. <p>it relates light condition u are going to shot.<br>

    F4 will be no question to enjoy more sharp C-C image F4IS brings in bright daylight.<br>

    In low light condition when pushing ISO to the extreme,sometimes one stop means bluring away.(1/100 upto 1/200).But I recommend 135L here to claim another stop faster/better image quality/fast focusing out of 70200 2.8<br>

    another details should be noticed is,F4 IS have much better image quality between 135-200mm,also it's optimized for shooting tele subjects comparing 2.8 ones.IS is another superiority for tele photography.<br>

    the down side is,EOS DSLRs need F2.8 wide open to function cross type focusing point,that means F4 IS could be focusing somehow shilly-shally in low light/low contrast situations.<br>

    All in all,F4 IS is a better choice in general situations.While 135L or wallet scratching 200 F2IS is to be considered if u shoot in lowlight in most cases</p>

  3. <p>according to the pic attached,seems the blur is caused by hand shake but not fast movment,b/c the girls are not in fast movement at all,and all blurs are going w/t orderliness.<br>

    Yet anyway 1/30 shutter speed is far from sport shoting.<br>

    Or we can say,the sample does not show joseph's difficulty evidently.<br>

    we here need at least 2stops improvement,<br>

    either new glass or body is needed.better both if wallet allows<br>

    monopod helps more than tripod in tele action shootings-if u can not afford those hell expensive cradle sets</p>

  4. <p ><a name="00XFyN"></a><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=20739">Ken Schwarz</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub10plus.gif" alt="" /></a>, Sep 10, 2010; 07:59 a.m.</p>

     

    <p>I strongly recommend the 70-200 f/4 IS over the plain f/4. IS works wonders with a tele zoom and makes it much more practical as a hand-held lens. To pay for it, I'd skip the 50/1.4 or the 85/1.8, depending on your taste.</p>

    <p>fully agree<br>

    the IS version is not simply adding IS to plain version.all optical performance improved to high level.<br>

    a fifty is always needed.So just forget about the 85</p>

     

  5. <p>believe yr best choice to be 5D MK2 or dual 5D if can got any fine pieces fm second hand.<br>

    Apsc format will deeply effect yr sensation to lenses built on full format, also believe me it is not a better choice to try...<br>

    one exception is if you are in eager demand of 720P 60FPS video shooting ,u'll need a 7D</p>

  6. <p>believe yr best choice to be 5D MK2 or dual 5D if can got any fine pieces fm second hand.<br>

    Apsc format will deeply effect yr sensation to lenses built on full format, also believe me it is not a better choice to try...<br>

    one exception is if you are in eager demand of 720P 60FPS video shooting ,u'll need a 7D</p>

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