piper_karie

How many photographers manipulate in camera and then say the image has not been altered?

How many photographers use lens filters when taking an image?

Just saying that we've been manipulating our visual experience with photography gear since the

beginning.

Ansel knew that and we would definitely call him an Artist and a Genius.

He knew how to emit the emotions he was feeling when he experienced taking those photographs.

It was that genius and artistry that helped further create our national park system and protect it from

the greedy buggers that would use it with complete disregard for public lands.

Just sayin'

<p>Photography is my tool of creativity and therefore, for me, food for the soul.<br>

I don't know if photography is therapy for me, but rather a form of mechanical<br>

meditation where the creative part of the brain kicks in and the part that deals<br>

with this, at times, crazy world (filled with crazier people) gets some R&R.<br>

I know that I'm at home in the mountains with my gear. I can be<br>

in the mountains without my gear, but the element of creativity is gone<br>

and that leaves a gap for me.</p>

<p>I love my gear. I know that professionals are not supposed to "love their<br>

gear", because it's a tool of the trade. But, try telling that to a painter<br>

or sculptor who has a favorite color or clay medium.<br>

I know when I've captured something that my creative self sees. That's<br>

satisfying the creative impulse or purpose.</p>

<p>I could live without photography. I did for years when my immune system<br>

crashed from chemical exposure at work. I could no longer be in a dark<br>

room because of the chemicals. I could no longer develop my own film, so being<br>

professionally active was for me impossible.<br>

For 14 years I didn't pick up a camera to do serious work.<br>

It wasn't really depression, but more like a missing part of myself.<br>

The digital age of photography allowed me back into photography<br>

in a profound way.</p>

<p>I can say that two of some of the most important moments of my life<br>

happened when my father gave me my first camera, which was film.<br>

The other was when my step-son came into the house and showed<br>

me the first digital SLR that I had ever seen. Within moments<br>

of seeing his Canon I simply sat down in front of the computer<br>

and started a search on what was then the web and began to look<br>

for Minolta DSLRs. I had a small arsenal of Minolta lenses and I was<br>

excited to put them to work for the first time in many years.<br>

My life hasn't been the same since. It's better.<br>

<br>

Since this is a time of reflection for many of us I thank<br>

you for the questions. They have reminded me of how<br>

much I have to be thankful for.<br>

Happy Holidays! </p>

<p>Has anyone see this great idea on Kickstarter?<br>

Just wanted to put this out there:<br>

Here's a link to what I think is a great Kickstarter Project, especially<br />for Macro Photographers and anyone that needs some really portable<br />lighting for close up work.<br>

I thought this would be great for close up travel photography where you can't<br />drag all of your gear around with you.<br>

Here's the link:<br>

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1447024032/adaptalux-an-adaptable-miniature-lighting-studio<br>

<br />The Kickstarter deal is pretty good at the 100pds mark, as the<br />inventor is likely British. It's probably around $150 U.S.<br>

You get the controller Unit and a couple of plug in lights. Looks to be a pretty good <br />savings before it goes off Kickstarter.<br>

May 2, 2015 is the Deadline for the Project Support on Kickstarter<br />and the last chance to get the Kickstarter Deals.<br>

Happy Spring Shooting All.</p>

<p>Got 24FPS raw burst, but it totally screwed up my AF. Wound up with<br>

front/back focus issues as well as other issues. I wound up reverting the<br>

firmware back to 1.3.5 by renaming the file to trick the camera into <br>

reading it as the new upgrade. Now AF is back to normal, but no<br>

new upgrade.<br>

A lot of shooters are posting similar problems over on the<br>

Canon Rumor forum.<br>

At this rate I would only upgrade to 2.0.0 or high at your own<br>

risk.<br>

Here's the link to Canon Rumor forum on this subject:<br>

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=10096.0</p>

<p>Canon 100-400mm L lens disassembly for front element cleaning, focus/friction ring repair and lens mount replacement:<br>

Actually for anyone else reading this currently, I have taken a part the front element of the 100-400 and it's not that difficult. You would think that people were doing brain surgery. If you have mechanical or electronic experience this is fairly easy when done with patience, experience and very small tools for the job. Clean work environment of course! Read this and the linked articles several times before attempting as I am writing this from memory probably have things out of sequence.<br>

There are only three small screws holding on the outer cosmetic cover ring, then you simply make your marks for the calibration set screws, which are the black ones. There are the white roller "collars" with inset screws and these are what your front element is optically adjusted with. You remove the front element and use a blower at an angle so as not to grind grit into your element, then a new high quality lens brush to remove the stubborn dust/lint from the front of the second element and the rear of the front one. You're done.<br>

I have also replaced the black "paper" on the inside of the friction ring. WARNING, if you do this do not move the friction housing ring around or you will have the tiny bearings all over the place. You make certain the friction ring is setting on a solid surface and then remove the focus ring barrel from the friction ring very carefully other wise you will have the upper ring of bearing coming out of the friction ring.<br>

There are TWO (2) rings of bearings, one above the inner paper coated friction grip ring and one below it. The one below is "hidden" but if you remove the grip ring to replace the black "paper" it can easily upset the tiny ring plate that holds the bearings in place then you have bearings coming out. <br>

If this happens ( make certain you are doing this on a cloth surface or they will run off your work area never to be found again), the best way to pick them up is to use a slightly dampened toothpick and then gently put them back into the ring seat area. You must make certain they are in a single row sitting back against the friction housing and not sitting on top of each other. Then you must set the protective flat ring on top of them and make certain they move freely. I put a bit of fine graphite in with them for dry lubricant using a toothpick. TIP: USE toothpicks, otherwise the static electricity from a tiny screw driver bit will have about 20 of the bearings attached to it and they are TOUGH to remove.<br>

When I replaced the black paper on the actual friction spring ring which appears to be stainless steel, I used rubbing alcohol and scraped, rubbed it down to a clean finish. I replace the "paper" with Offray MicroSpool fine black ribbon with adhesive on one side. I found this at a fabric store. I can't take credit for discovering this material. Found it on another blog from a Aero Photographer in the UK. After installing the ribbon, I cut it with scissors then fine trimmed it with a new unused razor blade.<br>

I will tell you that re-installing this inner friction ring is very DIFFICULT with out displacing the bearings. As you will notice after you unscrewed the friction ring housing from the focus ring housing you have two holes where the screws were. Use them by placing toothpicks into them to keep the bearing rings elevated. This helps a bit and keeps the bearing from going every where, but you are still doing a juggling act to keep everything in place.<br>

REMEMBER, only do this if you feel you have the ability, experience, time and PATIENCE. If you doubt any of these don't do this. Of course, if your gear is toast anyway and you know you'll have to send it in regardless, then you weigh your choices.<br>

I did this with success and it can be done by those who are willing, experienced and have the proper tools, which can be purchased at Home Depot. You need the tiny screw driver kits "Husky" with the bits in the handle. Nothing funky, just tiny flat and phillips heads.<br>

Here's a link from another forum that shows part of the break down to clean the first element:<br>

http://photography-on-the.net/forum/showthread.php?t=948918<br>

If you notice in the next to the last photo on the entry. All of the pieces are lined up on his desk, the focus collar/friction collar assembly is second from the right. You WANT to keep that friction collar in that position to work on it, or those bearings once the upper focus collar is GENTLY removed will be every where. IF that happens just be patient and get them back into their seat.<br>

This was a help just to see the pieces, but I am very mechanical. I have pulled apart motorcycle and car engines, installed E-85 conversions, taken apart computers for part replacement and they all work.<br>

Here's the article on the "clutch" replacement that might help as well.<br>

http://www.pointsinfocus.com/2010/03/fixed-my-canon-ef-100-400-f4-5-5-6l-is-usm/ <br>

Lenses are not that much different, except they are very fragile and you MUST always be aware of where you are placing elements, screws, your hands. No fast movements, no distractions. Pretend you are doing a meditation that is worth 1K plus, since Japans unfortunate mishaps, nearly 2K for replacement.<br>

I hope this helps those of you who are not near a repair center and/or are mechanically stubborn like myself. Oh, I also replaced my own lens mount on this lens and it is very easy. Cost me $37 off ebay and 30 minutes to remove 4 screws and 2 tiny screws holding in the contacts and the spacer collar. I just gently pried the collar up, REMEMBER there are electrical contacts, so that means wires are attached!<br>

On the back of the collar once it is gently removed there are 4 clips, if memory serves me, that must be released from the underside of the collar which holds the collar spacer to the back of the mount. Use a very small flat driver bit to gently unclip these. Then just attach the new collar to the parts and screw everything back in snug. I don't mention gaskets as my lens didn't have any, but yours might. If it does just be very careful and try to preserve them for reuse. If you are concerned buy gaskets with your lens mount. You should be able to get everything on ebay or via Canon. Yes, Canon will sell you parts if you have the numbers. NEVER OVER TIGHTEN YOUR SCREWS. <br>

Here's the Canon exploded view parts list for the Canon 100-400L lens:<br>

http://www.micro-tools.net/pdf/Canon/EF%20100-400%204.5-5.6L%20IS%20USM.pdf<br>

GOOD LUCK AND DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK IF YOU CHOOSE TO ATTEMPT THESE REPAIRS YOURSELF.</p>

<p>I have the 100-400L as well and though it had decent sharpness when I first picked it up I have since calibrated it,<br>

along with all of my other lenses, and it makes excellent images. Calibration on the 7D is simple if you have the right<br>

calibration target. It makes all the difference, so for the most part I think there is seldom a "bad" lens, just needed<br>

calibration to the particular camera you are using.<br>

I have been in photography a long time and I have had to disassemble lenses and clean them. My experience at this<br>

enabled me to pick up a "dirty" 100-400L and replace a worn mount as well. Works like a champ, but I'd only do this<br>

maintenance and repair if you are confident of your skills and make certain to mark your element alignments when doing<br>

the front and second element disassembly and cleaning. That's where the majority of the dust accumulates.<br>

Taking good care of your lens will eliminate the need for a lot of cleaning, but sometimes it just happens and this<br>

lens is not weather sealed.<br>

It is a horse, so I have a 70-200 f/4 IS that I couple with the TX 1.4II when I hike. I also use the TX 1.4II on the<br>

100-400L with usable results depending on the enlargement and crop ratio.<br>

To control focus for fine work I put mine on a sturdy tripod and switch my control preferences to focus lock using<br>

the shutter release button, then use my remote control so there is no blur during Liveview shooting.<br>

It's about as stable as you can get as long as you have a sturdy tripod/head combo.<br>

With the 100-400L and the TX 1.4 you can get a 580mm lens without selling an organ.<br>

It's a great lens and if you can pick one up before all of the Canon lenses go through the roof (Japan's crisis) then<br>

I would.</p>

<p>I have the 100-400L as well and though it had decent sharpness when I first picked it up I have since calibrated it,<br>

along with all of my other lenses, and it makes excellent images. Calibration on the 7D is simple if you have the right<br>

calibration target. It makes all the difference, so for the most part I think there is seldom a "bad" lens, just needed<br>

calibration to the particular camera you are using.<br>

I have been in photography a long time and I have had to disassemble lenses and clean them. My experience at this<br>

enabled me to pick up a "dirty" 100-400L and replace a worn mount as well. Works like a champ, but I'd only do this<br>

maintenance and repair if you are confident of your skills and make certain to mark your element alignments when doing<br>

the front and second element disassembly and cleaning. That's where the majority of the dust accumulates.<br>

Taking good care of your lens will eliminate the need for a lot of cleaning, but sometimes it just happens and this<br>

lens is not weather sealed.<br>

It is a horse, so I have a 70-200 f/4 IS that I couple with the TX 1.4II when I hike. I also use the TX 1.4II on the<br>

100-400L with usable results depending on the enlargement and crop ratio.<br>

To control focus for fine work I put mine on a sturdy tripod and switch my control preferences to focus lock using<br>

the shutter release button, then use my remote control so there is no blur during Liveview shooting.<br>

It's about as stable as you can get as long as you have a sturdy tripod/head combo.<br>

With the 100-400L and the TX 1.4 you can get a 580mm lens without selling an organ.<br>

It's a great lens and if you can pick one up before all of the Canon lenses go through the roof (Japan's crisis) then<br>

I would.</p>

<p>I have the 100-400L as well and though it had decent sharpness when I first picked it up I have since calibrated it,<br>

along with all of my other lenses, and it makes excellent images. Calibration on the 7D is simple if you have the right<br>

calibration target. It makes all the difference, so for the most part I think there is seldom a "bad" lens, just needed<br>

calibration to the particular camera you are using.<br>

I have been in photography a long time and I have had to disassemble lenses and clean them. My experience at this<br>

enabled me to pick up a "dirty" 100-400L and replace a worn mount as well. Works like a champ, but I'd only do this<br>

maintenance and repair if you are confident of your skills and make certain to mark your element alignments when doing<br>

the front and second element disassembly and cleaning. That's where the majority of the dust accumulates.<br>

Taking good care of your lens will eliminate the need for a lot of cleaning, but sometimes it just happens and this<br>

lens is not weather sealed.<br>

It is a horse, so I have a 70-200 f/4 IS that I couple with the TX 1.4II when I hike. I also use the TX 1.4II on the<br>

100-400L with usable results depending on the enlargement and crop ratio.<br>

To control focus for fine work I put mine on a sturdy tripod and switch my control preferences to focus lock using<br>

the shutter release button, then use my remote control so there is no blur during Liveview shooting.<br>

It's about as stable as you can get as long as you have a sturdy tripod/head combo.<br>

With the 100-400L and the TX 1.4 you can get a 580mm lens without selling an organ.<br>

It's a great lens and if you can pick one up before all of the Canon lenses go through the roof (Japan's crisis) then<br>

I would.</p><div></div>

<p>Scott, I used the 16-105mm extensively and was quite happy with it.<br>

I purchased it over the CZ16-80 and was glad that I did. There really is not that much<br>

difference in IQ between the two lenses. I used the entire length of the lens and found<br>

that although it is not a perfect lens I could easily take care of those faults in LR3 or<br>

PS4, or even PS elements. Not a real problem.<br>

I have since gone over to Canon due to other issues and though I loved the Sony<br>

16-105mm I would consider the Canon 15-85mm a superior lens. Just My opinion.<br>

If you do purchase the 16-105mm you wont be sorry, however.<br>

Also, for actual user ratings try the Dyxum.com site. I found it quite helpful.</p>