james_jenner

<p>Thanks for that guys.</p>

<p>Hey Joshua, that software you mentioned, have you used it with CR2 files? I'll download the trail version and see if it works okay but I noticed that at the bottom of the image support page it has a footnote that states it uses an embedded jpeg. I wasn't aware there was an embedded jpeg in the CR2 and I'm not sure if there are any camera options that affect this being embedded in the CR2. But as I said, I'll give it a go tonight and see what happens.</p>

<p>Brett, I didn't get a chance to try out irfanview last night, I'll try tonight.</p>

<p>Will post results for both!</p>

<p>Btw, I got the picasa one working fine. It's got some annoying overlay issues with some panels and a lot of wasted space that you cannot turn off. It's not really designed to have a lightweight browsing option and appears to presume that you have at least 1024x768 or more, hence why stuf is squashed. However worse case I think I will go with picasa. interestingly it's got a lot of similar features (in some ways more advanced) to the Canon photo software, and it writes all the changes to a text file that is hidden and begins with a fullstop in the same directory. I presume the cannon software does something similar but I've never bothered to check.</p>

<p>I agree that being totally focused on flash is not a good thing, but I don't agree the logic behind rejecting flash.</p>

<p>Flash isn't supported by the iPad, true, but how many potential clients will be using iPads? What is the market saturation compared to PC's, laptops, notebooks, etc? I'm only aware of apple not supporting flash, Android as far as I am aware does support flash. So it's not a valid reason to not support flash, the statement that it's disabling only applies to apple products. I also would suspect that people who discover a site that doesn't work on the iPad will do one of two things, a) look up the site on a PC or laptop, or b) ignore the site and go somewhere else.</p>

<p>So, before deciding to drop flash I would suggest trying to find some stats on the number of devices of specific types on a country breakdown (I presume your focused on local work, not international). Then I would suggest figuring out what the impact is if you cut off that percentage and the cost to change what you have done so far. It's the same as supporting old web browsers. You have to figure out what the impact is, what sacrifices you have to make for what your trying to do and what the cost is.</p>

<p>Note that a quick google has turned up headlines that 3 million ipads have been sold (to June), I presume that is a figure for the USA and you have to consider the impact of technophiles who rush to have the latest device. Population in America is over 309 million, so that is slightly under 1% of the population. I presume that will grow but remember that an iPad is not an exclusive device.</p>

<p>Personally I'm not a big fan of sites that are heavy on flash, but that's just a personal opinion not a technology issue.</p>

<p>Hey Brett, thanks for the advice. I've tried using IrFranview with Raw files previously as it's a utility that I've used for a long time. However I found was that it's slow to open the raw files, I don't know if this is a disk i/o issue or the application's implementation for Cannon's raw files. I'll have to check if I have the latest version as I may have an old one.</p>

<p>Did you find that the thumbnail view works okay with raw files?</p>

<p>Hmm just re-read your comment and noticed you mention a plugin pack. I normally don't install it, maybe there is a plugin with better raw support than the standard, I'll have to check it out.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses guys, I'd never thought of the serious photo editing software.</p>

<p>Just to clarify my intention, I not planning on doing any serious work on it, just enough to see if: a) an individual photo is worth keeping; and b) if a series of photos for a location are okay or do i need to go back and redo. I understand the issues with the LCD, but I know it's a lot better than the one on the back of my 450D! :)</p>

<p>What I would love is a tool that allows thumbnail browsing, opening the image quickly and allowing some minor tweaking (to determine if it's okay. Funnily enough the Google software (picasa) works, but because of the screen resolution some panels are overlayed. I'm going to play with the settings to see if I can improve it.</p>

<p>I should note that I'm just new to photography so you can imagine that I'm still half in the spray and pray mode (trying hard to get out of it, it is a slow process). Also I'm shooting in RAW, and not that jpeg combined. Maybe I should shoot in jpeg combined to make it easier to browse/view? I could then delete the jpegs at the end of each day. Hmm wonder if using combined RAW + JPeg would slow down the speed of taking photos, I imagine it would.</p>

<p>Anyway thanks for the suggestions so far.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>G'day everyone,</p>

<p>We have a Atom based laptop, the screen is only 10" big and as a result the max resolution is 1024x600. This means that the Digital Photo Professional software from Canon will not work (requires 1024x768 min, gives an error and will not let you use it). I've now downloaded the Codec for windows so I can use windows to view the images, while it does work, it's only for viewing.</p>

<p>However I thought this must be a common problem irrespective of the Manufacturer for managing raw images while away from home via a small footprint laptop.</p>

<p>So any suggestions for software that works on an Atom cpu sized system would be helpful. I was thinking of downloading the picasa software from google. Please note that I am running Windows 7, I also did the google search but couldn't find any previous threads about it (most prob an issue of choosing the correct words to search on).</p>

<p>Cheers and thanks in advance,</p>

<p>James.</p>

<p>I have to agree with Don in that I do not like music on a site, often will make me ignore the site and go somewhere else, it's so myspaceish (if you know what I mean).<br>

The time to load the first page (presumably due to the flash) is annoying, I cannot remember if there is a load indicator but I don't remember seeing one, something to show would be nice. Maybe the flash can show a load indicator, download the first photo and then do the rest in the background. I'm not sure if it's trying to download the entire set of photos or not but it is quite slow (maybe the flash is just large).<br>

It appears a little disjointed the menu system. On one hand you use the menu at the bottom which is a url to a new page, but on the other hand you have the nice selection in flash for the Gallery. Personally I would try and remain consistent throughout so that the navigation mechanism flows. On the navigation for the Gallery, i wouldn't move the text to the top for the one highlighted, to me it's a distraction. Also if the text was bigger and wasn't just white (it's also very coarse when it moves to the top), maybe a transparency of some sort would look a bit better and change the text to a brighter option.<br>

I love the photo browser and how each picture stands out as it comes into view, very nice.<br>

I love he sizing of the size, it feels very nice and is comfortable to browse from a size point of view.<br>

I like the colours you've selected for the header/footer and how you have the header and footer in ratio to the main part of the site.<br>

I also agree with Nathan on some of the photos. One stood out to me that appears washed out, kinda looked flat between all the nice ones.<br>

Overall very nice Jessica, good luck with your website.<br>

James.</p>

<p>I've asked the same question around the place and got conflicting advice. Some said go with the EF-S lenses and save money, who knows what the future holds. Others said to only by EF and if possible by pro as they will last your life time and you can always go full frame in the future. One "professional" tried to tell me to buy a real expensive body, which I've come to the conclusion is the wrong advice. Looks to me the best advice I've heard is buy cheap body, buy nice glass. Which is what I'm trying to follow.</p>

<p>Personally I've taken the attitude of buying EF, and L when possible. L mainly because of the life you will get out of it. I do admit that I did buy a kit zoom lens only because I knew it would be a while before I could get a nice zoom (even second hand over in Australia they sell just shy of the retail price). but I brought the 50mm 1.8 which isn't expensive, if EF and is sooo much fun!</p>

<p>And all that said and done I've been fascinated with some macro work done via second hand lenses cobbled together in weird and wonderful ways and the results are amazing! So that is always another option.<br>

Please note, I'm just new to this too, so weigh my comments carefully because I may be misinformed.<br>

Good luck,<br>

James.</p>

<p>Good point Matt, I was thinking more of an American power distribution system (which I presume is similar to Australia), I now realise that the OP is from India and not knowing the condition of the power supply over there I can only presume that a UPS may be worth the money if it is well spent and there is a need for one.<br>

I don't know how much they cost in India but in Australia they're mainly used for servers in business style scenarios. As a result they're quite expensive and only really used for servers (both due to cost benefit and lack of a need).<br>

On Matt's comment for the 1000VA unit, that could be a very good and affordable option. If your not there (or even if you are) get one that can be monitored. Then you can set your computer to auto-shutdown on an event that loses your power. The only issue is if you go for a cheap unit, check how fast it switches and what the tolerance is of your equipment attached to it. If it switches too slow then that may cause problems as the damage is already done. One possible issue is that a cheaper unit may not have built in power conditioning. Some will just target spikes and not perform any conditioning.<br>

Of course Matt is very correct in saying that you really need some form of backup approach, external drives being the easiest now a days</p>

<p>G'day Suvadyuti,<br>

Just curious what you want a UPS for? UPS's are normally used to increase availability of your system, making it available when the power goes off. This is either because you must have high availability of the system, or because you want time to perform a backup in this scenario. In both cases this is normally a requirement for a system that is a server hosting business software.<br>

If you plan to use this for a home office scenario, then I would suggest that you only need one if you need access to your computer always, irrespective of your mains power.<br>

Now something you need to consider is that the UPS will let you use your computer, but normally you only use it on the computer itself, not the monitor or any other hardware. Routers and switches are normally included to keep networks powered (specially if your hosting a website). But in such a scenario you will have no power to any other device in your home office. No lights, airconditioning, heating, etc. In such a scenario will you need to use your computer? Adding a monitor to the equation will deplete most home office sized UPS devices pretty fast.<br>

So when deciding to buy you have to consider why you need it, determine how long you need to retain power, how many devices you will need to have powered for this period, the power usage on a per hour basis for the devices and then the rated output of the UPS. This will give you an answer.<br>

One other reason to use a UPS (which I haven't mentioned sorry) is to allow you time to shut down your computer safely and avoid losing any work at the moment you lost power. Generally this is important for servers as downtime affects the ability of most businesses to operate, thus reducing the effort to perform a restore is key. You have to consider is this a likely risk for you and do you want to spend the money for this scenario.<br>

I suspect what you really want is a power conditioner, something that will stop power spikes from frying your system. This is different to a UPS, though some UPS devices to include them. Just remember that like all computer devices a power conditioner and a UPS will require regular replacement. Batteries in a UPS will eventually need replacement (the most expensive area I am led to believe) and conditioners may require replacement based on exposure to spiky power supplies.<br>

I hope that helps.<br>

Cheers James<br>

Oh one last comment, consider the cost of the UPS against the cost of your hardware and the inconvenience of having to replace/restore. And then find out how often a computer fails due to such issues (maybe available from insurance companies?). It's all a cost/benefit analysis at the end of the day.</p>

<p>I have to agree with Faysal. I brought the 450D (which was the cheapest body I could that is a DSLR) and the 50mm 1.8. Cost was very very reasonable and the 50mm lens is so much fun, i went mad with it for a while!<br>

I should note that I was recently told that the 450D is not available anymore. Not sure the situation in other parts of the world.</p>

<p>Hmm I'm interested in this as well, and I say this after having spent a year and a half saving every single cent (to the point of giving up softdrink) so I can by some 'nice glass'.<br>

That said, growing up I always liked some of the effects that people now try so hard to avoid. I'm not keen on all but blurriness/lack of sharpness, perspective issues, vignettes and lens flare are areas that growing up I was exposed to a lot and one could say that I like the effect depending on how it is applied and when.<br>

Fish eye is most prob one of those ones that I can take or leave it. Sometimes it is spectacular but it can be done to death.<br>

I find it funny that computer games often recreate lens flare in game to make it 'more realistic'. I remember people ooo'ing over the latest features in the various rendering tools over 15 years ago when you could add in lens flare!<br>

One thing I can say, reading the forums here has given me a better appreciation for the older lenses and cameras and has aroused my curiosity. If this keeps up I may even be forced to acquire some!<br>

Cheers,<br>

James.</p>

<p>G'day Peter,<br>

Go to Sharing, My Portfolio, and then at the bottom will list all your equipment with the option to edit the information.<br>

Have to admit that it took me a little bit to find it as well, but I was determined because I had only used it the other day :)<br>

Cheers,<br>

James</p>

<p>Well I'm not an expert on Photoshop, but I do know a decent amount of Photoshop and similar tools. I should note that I'm new to photography so I may not be up with the best approaches to using photoshop with photographs.<br>

Well layers are good for two things imho.<br>

1) is for merging/combining images. They don't have to be just images, but could be vector art, or maybe a watermark, etc. You can set options on layers as to how they interact with the layer below them, you can adjust the transparency, the method of how it is applied, etc.<br>

2) is for masking. You can use a mask to edit out areas of another layer.<br>

I'm sure there are other uses but that's the main ones for me.<br>

For your use however I believe smart objects would be the way to go. With smart objects the original isn't changed and all your changing is the the 'smart object', which means you can make adjustments later. With what your doing you will not be able to reverse.<br>

One suggestion is that you always duplicate the background and then select the eye option on the panel which hides the layer (choose the one for the background). Make sure you have the new layer selected and apply your changes. That way if you don't like your changes then you can start again.<br>

When you do things like stamp tool you can apply those in new layers so that if you don't like the cloning you can just delete the layer or just hide it. that way you can try different things, hide/show different layers to see which you like, etc.<br>

I'm not sure about the dodge/burn tool on how to do that in a different layer, maybe someone with more experiance than me can enlighten me. I'm also not familiar with LR (I only have the web edition of CS3, I really need to change it), so maybe it does some smarts with keeping your original image, however i would avoid editing the background, always copy and hide if you need to.<br>

Hope that helps mate.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Had an incident of this just last week. I was trying out shooting photos with some friends from work and was trying to frame a difficult squarish sculpture. All of a sudden I see this hand appear and wave around as I'm about to take the pic. My immediate reaction was wtf, why is one of my mates doing that. I put the camera down have a look and realise it's some old nutter of a guy who has now backed right away trying to act nonchalant. I can only presume he was bored on his smoko.<br>

Well I lol'd and ignored him :)</p>

<p>G'day all,</p>

<p>I'm only a newbie here on the site and as yet haven't subscribed, but I love the idea of critiques of photos. The ratings doesn't interest me that way because I know how random that is, but good critiques by people who know more than me about photography (which is most prob. everyone here) is something I'm keen on.</p>

<p>I've been looking at the photos on here for critique and I'm blown away by a good portion of them. I'm worried that if I am to do ratings that I will unduly influence the rating system. I understand that I'm just one person and that the impact should be small, however I can't help but feel that I don't have the knowledge or experience to give fair critiques and/or ratings.</p>

<p>So I'm just curious if there is any etiquette to the critique/rating area. Failing that, is there any guidelines or rules? I looked for some but couldn't find any (could be a case of I didn't look in the right place).</p>

<p>I only post this because I would rather not post critiques along the lines of "Oh wow", "mind bogglingly impressive", "oh my god I think my brain just seized" over and over again.</p>

<p>Cheers,</p>

<p>James</p>

<p>PS. I tried the search option but I got too many weird hits that I gave up, oh the joy of google ;)</p>

<p>Thanks for the welcome guys :)</p>

<p>Currently I'm in trying to get out of the spray and pray mode, so I'm focusing on composition and light. There is so much to learn that it is at times daunting, however some people at work are into photography and we have planned to go out at lunch, once a week or so to take photos. I'm finding that helps a lot as I get to see how they think when they compose a photo.</p>

<p>Again, thanks for the welcome :)</p>

<p>G'day all,<br>

I've been interested in photography for many years and I recently decided to get into it. I've acquired myself a base model body so I can save the dollars for some nice glass. I've brought a 50mm 1.8 which is so much fun to play with, I find myself forgetting about the zoom I got. I'm looking forward to taking pictures, learning from my mistakes, posting here for critique and growing in my abilities as a photographer.</p>

<p>I'm based in Brisbane, Australia which for the non-Australians is about half way down the east coast of Australia (well slightly north of half way down). The climate here is sub-tropical and we get some incredible weather here as a result. Consider it to be similar to Florida in America (I think, maybe like Miami).</p>

<p>I'm interested in a lot of different things (subject wise). I love architecture, nature, landscapes, black and white, macro, people (not so much studio work, more non staged, adhoc style). So there is a lot for me to explore, even more for me to learn!</p>

<p>I've been doing a lot of research into the best site to start using at my level and from what I've read this appears to be a good place to learn and share.</p>

<p>I should note that I'm going to be very busy shortly for various reasons so I wont get a chance for a fair few weeks before I can start posting, however I am now taking my camera everywhere I go and should get the chance to take a fair bit.</p>

<p>Cheers,<br>

James.</p>

<p> </p>