nat_pelson

<p>I don't shoot digital anymore so the software solution isn't applicable.<br>

I checked my five other Zuiko lenses last night and all but one have this "coloration" ( one of the 50mm lenses is unaffected ) including a zoom which I already know takes great and contrasty pics. So I guess this was much ado about nothing, it just SEEMS worse in this lil 24mm lens.<br>

Thanks everyone :-)</p>

<p>No I'm not all all sure it's external that's why I asked if a filter could bring it back to neutral. I just tried cleaning in case I got lucky.</p>

<p>Alcohol and cotton swab, then a lens cleaning "pen" that has worked very well for my other lenses.</p>

<p>I recently bought a 24mm Oly lens for my OM-1 and OM-4, it's pretty nice but it has a kind of brownish or greenish haze( I tried cleaning, but no improvement ). Is there a filter that would correct the color balance back to neutral?</p>

<p>The Slik 500DX seems to be about what I'm looking for with good reviews but it's too new to have a "used" market. Is there an older Slik with the same features?<br>

I'd also like a geared column like my older pod, but that seems to be out of the budget range these days.</p>

<p>BTW, concerns about the new Tiltalls seems legit. I see LOTS of raves for "I've been using one for 20 years" but not so much for "I just bought one last week". The newer ones seem to be near crap and yet reviewers throw in opinions about the older ones as if they are relevant < shrugg ><br>

Thanks everybody, keep the posts coming!!</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=419409">Edward Ingold</a> <a href="../member-status-icons"><img title="Subscriber" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/sub9.gif" alt="" /><img title="Frequent poster" src="../v3graphics/member-status-icons/3rolls.gif" alt="" /></a>, Nov 26, 2010; 08:18 p.m.<br>

For under $150, the Slik 700DX is tall and sturdy, but on the heavy side. The legs have adjustable angles and there is a short column for working at ground level with the legs spread.</p>

</blockquote>

 

<p>I was actually looking at the Slik DX ( the 500 ) this afternoon, they get good reviews at Adorama.<br>

I will look into the Tilt-All and see what they are like</p>

<p>I'm looking for a nice tripod that doesn't break the bank ( say used $50-$80 ). I have one that works it's just getting old.<br>

I remember back in the day seeing some that could telescope all the way down to the ground ( nearly ) by letting the legs spread way out. The one I have now can go inverted but that's quite a hassle really.<br>

It should still be light enough to pack around under my Tamrac Pro12 gadget bag with a max height of 60 inches or so.</p>

<p>What would you recommend or NOT recommend. Was looking at Bogens naturally but there seems to be a dizzying selection.</p>

<blockquote>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=1717776">Patrick Dempsey</a> , Nov 21, 2010; 01:15 a.m. You might want to look into picking up an Olympus T-30... then you will have full flash control and a very nice little flash.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>DONE!<br>

( It's the T-32 btw )</p>

<p>I'm running film through it tonight and tomorrow.<br>

Does Sunpak make ANY model with true TTL OTF flash control with an Oly OM-4? I have tried both the auto 30DX and auto 422D via the OT-1D module and other than setting the shutter speed they don't quite seem to do much except couple the flashes "exposure ok" confirm lamp to the viewfinder indicator when set to the "*" position.</p>

<p>The OM-4 sets itself to 60 once the flash is charged.<br>

The viewfinder has over/under exposure for flash pics.<br>

The scenes are indeed quite dim and the TTL should compensate anyway ( that's sort of the whole point ) unless the 60 was very close to correct for an ambient pic.<br>

I also discovered a huge flaw with the Sunpak. In order for it to work on an Oly they had to resort to just a single screw to hold the hot-shoe to the flash body. This makes it a somewhat wobbly and rather weak mount.<br>

I'll see if I can run some film through it this weekend, time permitting.</p>

<p>I just put a Sunpak 30DX ( with the OT-1D module ) on my amazing OM-4 but the TTL doesn't seem to be working right. I have the flash mode set to it's "star" setting and the OM set to "auto" ( the OM sets itself to 60 but shooting without film gets me an under or over exposure in the viewfinder except with one or two apertures. Shouldn't I be able to shoot with almost any aperture?</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Am wondering if you can manually operate the camera with the MD-12 attached but not turned on?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yup, it all works fine if I don't turn it on.</p>

<blockquote></blockquote>

<p>OK, first off, the MD-12 does not power the FE or FM, that is an internet myth. Some cameras with some drives have that feature, the MD-12 does not.</p>

<p>Dieter, when the MD is fitted and fired up WITHOUT the FE being pre-cocked, the motor whirrs for a second, you hear the camera film system do a slight wind and then the MD starts the chugging noise. When it is removed, the MD fork is at a diagonal to it's body ( it starts parallel to the body before I attach it ) and the shutter pin is down. I can finish the FE film wind with the lever.<br>

When I attach the MD with the FE having already been cocked and turn it on, nothing happens. When I depress the MD shutter button halfway the meter activates as normal, when the button is fully depressed the shutter fires and the chugging noise begins. When the MD is removed, the fork is once again diagonal to the MD body and the shutter pin is down. I can finish the FE film wind with the lever.<br>

If you do multiple shorts of the MD pins you will see the shutter pin moving up and down as normal.<br>

After the jam with the MD still attached I can complete the film wind with the lever but the lever then has no return spring tension till I remove the camera from the MD. Freaky.<br>

I have tried attaching and turning on the MD with the wind lever both in and out with no success. I have also attached it with the camera uncocked then advanced the lever hoping it would properly engage the MD drive forks but to no avail.<br>

As I said all things function normally with the FM2n attached < shrug ></p>

<p>Thanking everyone for thier help :-)</p>

<p>Dieter, didn't work.<br>

Brian, also didn't work.<br>

I'm gonna try and get a crack of space between the body and the drive so I can SEE what's happening.<br>

<em>Grrrrrrrr</em></p>

 

<p>None of this has worked! I find it very odd that the MD works just fine with the FM.<br>

Is it possible the FE isn't sending an "end of cycle" type message to the MD so the MD just keeps trying to wind the film?<br>

Very frustrating :-(</p>

<p>I just got an awesome FE2 to go with my equally great FM2n, but a problem has arisen.<br>

With the FM2 the MD-12 works perfect in single and continuous. The FE2 works perfect as well until the MD-12 is attached and switched on, then the MD cycles, stops, the red LED starts blinking and the motor chuggs as if it is trying to do something. The camera will not fire and the film wind lever is limp. This happens whether the film wind lever is left locked or left open when attaching the MD. Also happens when in M250 mode.<br>

When the MD is removed the FE goes right back to working perfect.<br>

Any ideas?</p>

<p>Update.<br>

Confirmed.<br>

Tonight I swapped the prism from a donor OM-10 to my OM-1md, all is well but it seems the meter is now reading 1/2 to 1 full stop brighter than before. Wonder if the damaged prism wasn't passing quite as much light as the newer one is?</p>

<p>Well I WAS going to say "I guess I will pick up a junk/partser FM2n body to practice on" But I haven't seen one for less than $40 or so lol.<br>

The ME isn't the end of the world, I'm just a gadget freak who would like to see an otherwise near flawless put whole.<br>

I finally got a lens for it today and the FM meter matches my three Minoltas and my Oly OM-1 so I will see how the film turns out over the weekend.<br>

Thanks everyone, especially Michael!</p>

<p>Thanks Michael.<br>

Is that mech the same as in the FE10? I have the repair manual for the FE10 and the lever etc looks similar in the manual.</p>

<p>Yeah I have the manual and did all that before, but it don't work.</p>

<p>I just bought an FM2n in terrific shape. Everything seems to work fine except the multi-exposure lever next to the wind crank. It moves about an eighth of an inch ( and I hold it there ), a small click is heard inside the camera but as I wind the crank the sprockets still turn and the counter advances. I took off the bottom base cover but didn't see anything that looked wrong.<br>

Is this a known issue and is there a fix?<br>

This is my very first Nikon after years/decades of Minolta devotion.</p>

<p>kaptor2 AT yahoo DOT company</p>

<p>Apparently, there IS a god lol<br /> www.willegal.net/photo/photo-first_page.htm</p>

<p>The meter adjustment IS where I thought it was. Now I can experiment on one of the 101 bodies before going to the 202.<br /> Thanks everybody!</p>

<p>Yup, been there done that.<br>

He doesn't go into it there but I think I already can adjust the battery check level to align with the indicator block but that's a different adjustment than meter level or sensitivity.<br>

Sombody here MUST know how to do this lol</p>

<p>I have 2 SRT-101s and another SRT-202 as well as an X-570 that was re-ferbd and tested, they all agree with each other but this last 202 is the one that meters high, so it's not a stray light issue.<br>

Really want to do the adjustment myself and I think I know where the adjuster is in the camera but not sure. Once I get it right I also want to do the diode mod myself.</p>

<p>I just got a 202 and it disagrees with my other camera meters, it reads 2/3 to one full stop brighter than it should. I have tried several batteries and the CRIS M9 but they all show the same reading.<br>

I know I can just twist the ASA knob but I would like to learn how to adjust it, the Service manual was of surprisingly little help other than for adjusting the battery check.</p>

<p>Can the prism from an OM-10 be installed in an OM-1 without modification?</p>