glen_berry1

When taking photos with my D750, frequently the newest photo will not show in the lcd immediately after exposure. Sometimes it's visible immediately, other times it'll take several seconds before it appears, sometimes not at all. Any ideas??

<p>Make sure the two white dots on the battery pack are lined up - if they're not, you're camera is using the in-camera battery.</p>

<p>Antelope Canyon with a 14-24 zoom. It's a magical place.</p>

<p>Antelope Canyon with a 14-24 zoom. It's a magical place.</p>

<p>As Lee Trevino was wont to say: "It ain't the arrow, boys - it's the Indian".</p>

<p>My pleasure JDM...</p>

<p>I have the Black Rapid strap for both my D600 and D700 cameras. I was troubled by the camera swinging freely about and banging into things as I went through doorways, etc.. I purchased one of those $20 circular retractable key chains with a 4' cable. The key chain fits onto my belt, the cable goes to the camera and holds it in place on my hip until I need it. The 4' cable is sufficient to get the camera to my eye, the tension of the key chain holder keeps the camera from flopping around. Glen Berry</p>

<p>Did that very tour on May 10th of this year. Yes - book in advance - the sooner the better. The Chief Tsosie tour is very good - particularly if "Rob" is your guide - he's also an accomplished photog which was a huge help. I took my tripod (which was a huge mistake - given the number of people in the canyon - others will argue for the use of a tripod). I just did the Upper Canyon, so can't speak to the Lower Canyon. Some tips - use the widest lens you have, and don't even THINK about changing lenses once in the Canyon. You'll find the very fine white sand gets into everything. In fact, while travelling to and from the Canyon in the pick-up truck - I'd recommend you have some type of dust protection for your camera/lens because those truck wheels kick up plenty of dust. I'd also recommentd using something like black electrical tape to seal the connection between camera and lens - again - for the dust. I also used a damp chamois to clean up the camera and lens once were were done - worked great. Suggest you set your camera to "cloudy", in AV priority, around f8. It'll be plenty hot during the time you're there - take water as well. Good luck!</p>

<p>One more thing - book your Antelope tour as early as you can. I booked a month in advance and was the last person on the list to be accepted for that particular tour.</p>

<p>Just got back from Upper Antelope 2 weeks ago - and can't wait to go again next year. Here's what I learned: (1) take a wide angle lens, (I had my 24-70 - worked great) and don't even think about changing the lens enroute to, in, or leaving the site - the sand is like flour, and permeates everything. (2) try to keep your camera protected enroute to, and leaving the site (use a camera bag or keep it under your shirt e.g. - again, the sand. (3) Leave the tripod @ home. There are areas inside the canyon that are only 4' wide, with 70 or more people constantly trying to pass you in either direction. Your tripod will take up 2/3 of that 4' space, plus you'll be in a group of perhaps 12 other photographers - all climbing over one another trying to get the same shot. You'll find the tripod will be bumped on more than one occasion - not worth it. (4) Shoot in "A" mode, aperture @ f8, set camera to "cloudy" - this will result in warm colors in the canyon. (5) if you can, protect the area on your camera where the lens is attached to the camera with something like electrical tape. Again - the sand. Also take a chamois (wrung almost dry) and blower bulb with you - great for cleaning up the camera after leaving the canyon. We were lucky on my tour - our guide was also a photographer - great combination. Also - I used no filters when in the canyon. Try to remember why you're there. I must have missed 50 shots because I was staring at the changing light and shadows - my mouth open, simply stunned by the beauty of that magical place. Above all - enjoy the tour - that place is special.</p>

<p>Are there heat presses designed specifically for dry mounting, or will a 15" x 15" generic heat press (one that does printing to a tee-shirt e.g.) do the job? The press I'm looking at, has temperature controls up to 400F, is brand new-in-the box, and the seller is asking $200. Thanks for any advice.</p>

Thanks to both of you - thought I may have been on to something there for a minute - ce'st la vie.

Shun - I see what you're saying: as soon as I depress the shutter, with the mirror in the "up" position -the mirror returns to it's normal

position - correct? In other words, there is no way to ensure the mirror remains in the "up" position while those 5 rapid shots are

taken?

<p>Sould have added I'm shoot "CL" so these 5 shots are all within one second.</p>

<p>D700 - 5 photos at equal exposure increments (+ and -) - am I correct in assuming when these 5 photos are bracketed, and the shutter activated, that the mirror is also activated for each of those 5 shots? In other words - does it make sense to use the mirror lock up feature for those 5 shots to reduce vibration?</p>

<p>My thanks to both contributors re: attaching the Black Rapid to the tripod socket in the 70-200, instead of on the MB D10 battery pack. It hadn't occurred to me to do that. I too was concerned about the combined weight of the lens and D700 with the strap attached to the battery pack tripod socket. I called Nikon Canada - they indicated there shouldn't be a problem. I also called Black Rapid - they indicated one of their staff using the exact same set-up as mine, had the tripod socket separate from the battery pack. I just now attached my strap to the lens tripod socket. Thanks, boys..</p>

<p>Thanks for the response - Glen</p>

<p>Ellis - thanks for your quick response and explanation - Glen</p>

<p>Jay - thanks for that - I was hoping I wouldn't have to re-calibrate, but c'est la vie. Also makes sense about not re-orienting the lens hood. Thanks again</p>

<p>2 questions: (1) I have both the D300 and D700. I've fine tuned several lenses in the D300 - can I take those numbers and transpose them to the 700, or must I re-calibrate each lens for use on the 700?<br>

(2) I recently purchased the Nikon battery pack, primarily for shooting in portrait orientation. When shooting in landscape orientation, the larger "petals" of the lens hood are on top - the smaller petals on the sides. When shooting in portrait orientation, should the lens hood be re-positioned so the larger petal is again on top? Thanks -<br>

Glen Berry</p>

<p>Go to speedtest.net - you'll get an accurate report on the speed of your internet service - no charge.</p>

<p>Ron - have a look at the Black Rapid strap..</p>

<p>Levon - get yourself Scott Kelby's "Elements 5" book - he lays out how to make/save save your own watermark @ pages 380-387. Glen</p>

<p>Charles - thanks for that - think I'll go ahead and get Elem. 8.</p>

<p>I currently use Elements 5 for my editing and I'm thinking of upgrading to Elements 8. If I do go to Elements 8, can I simply install 8, or would it be necessary to remove/uninstall Elements 5 first?</p>