stillstonevillage

<p>I use ep-1 and manual lens. Right now I use a contax 28mm and a leica 50mm and image is really good. I also like to use this camera as "simulation meter" for my film cameras.<br>

However, after I shot a photo and view it on the LCD, it does not show what is the shutter speed. Do you know if there is a way to see it on the camera LCD instead seeing this info in computer? Thanks.</p>

<p>I have one I pick up few months ago and only recently I found it is the 200mm, 5.5 M42 mount so I bought an adapter for EOS. I shot a white building faraway and you know what, the CA is less than a pixel at F8, amazing!</p>

 

<p>I have one I pick up few months ago and only recently I found it is the 200mm, 5.5 M42 mount so I bought an adapter for EOS. I shot a white building faraway and you know what, the CA is less than a pixel at F8, amazing!</p>

 

<p>Hi there, I have recently purchased a Leica R 3 cam 1.4 from eBay. Unfortunately, it comes in with signs of fungus growing from the edge now. Worse, the focus ring turns loosely without moving the inner elements. So this is a dummy. Anyone knows if this can be fixed and who can do the job and usually how much? Thanks.</p>

 

<p>Hi there, I have two adapters works fine with my Contax 50mm 1.4 for my 5DII. But They are not working with 5DII and a newly acquired 100-300mm. Anyone can suggest an adapter I can buy? Thanks.</p>

<p>Chuk, I read the pentaxforums. I check the lens, I can not say it is no haze but I think it is not apparent. I am still guessing. As you say, it is the sensor flare causing the problem. When using my wrist band method, it make sure only the light of the subject is directed thru the aperture hole. Without the wrist band (or a hood), light may enter from the font elements and get through around the aperture hole. Or, the wrist band just block the reflection of the front glass element.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>The DIY</p><div></div>

<p>Photos continue.</p><div></div>

<p>Chuk, thanks for the post of the two articles. I think it is more an easy case for me now. While I have done the flash test, I found dust, some, not, guessing maybe 100 or so but really tiny and no scratch at all.<br>

Then I do a test. DIY and the problem is gone. The method is to put a wrist ring in front of the lens when shooting macro. The photos I am going to post is shot F11, ISO 400, Canon 50D. The photo showing the lens at work via iPhone.<br>

I believe it is the same problem as the two articles stated. I also wonder why the Leica 60mm got a deep circular front shape. I guess it is an anti-flair design but maybe it is so old now and some of the coating not work no more and cause the problem. When shooting film, it might not exist for Leica's R series cameras, I guess.</p>

<p> </p><div></div>

<p>In theory, you are right. And I believe so. I might have found a solution. I stick a 1.5 inch black textile ring in front of the lens, and the flair is gone. It does not bother when I take close up. So I think I just need to buy a longer hood for it and the problem may be gone.<br>

Thanks so much, in going manual it is so many to learn!</p>

<p>It is too dark to make clear photo on the glass now. I am quite sure it is not the problem of the filters. I tried it on or off. Same problem. The flair is very clear when shooting live view. I am pretty sure it is the reflection of one of the glass that bounce this unwanted light onto the sensor.<br>

I check the glasses, with several specks of dust but it should not be the cause.</p>

<p>Chuk, please take a look. It is now mount on my 50D.</p><div></div>

<p>Chuk,<br /> Thanks. "Are you sure the lens is clean and the sensor is clean?" I think it is clean. But I notice some oil on back side of the blades. It should not be sensor flare as I used a 50d and 5d, same problem.<br /> This morning I put a black tube put in front of the lens. And the flair goes smaller but at F16 or smaller, still very apparent.<br /> Take a look of another photo I took outside. It is around F4 or F5.6 in shadow.<br /> I guess maybe the coating problem. However, it is so strange that from 1:4 and further, the phenomenon does not exist.</p><div></div>

<p>Martin,<br>

Thanks. Today I put a black roll around the lens's front, the flair goes much small. I think it is the problem of some elements of the glass. When using Macro, the front elements reach out, in small aperture, there might be some sort of reflection inside the lens going on. This is a 30 years old lens. I also found some oil on the blade, though not much.<br>

Another question, when you shoot Macro without the adapter, how close you get to the subject? This lens's manual indicates 27cm. Meaning 27 cm from subject to front of lens or the sensor?<br>

One more question: the outside dial of the lens in green, is that for 1:1 after putting an adapter?<br>

Thanks again.</p>

<p>I like to ask some help from you as I never play with Macro Lens before. I recently bought a used 3 Cam version. It performs very well in normal distance from 0.7m to infinity.<br>

However, when shooting macro, as distance getting down to 1:3, a strange problem occurs: a white spot is in the middle of the frame. The smaller the aperture, the problem seems more apparent. And getting closer to 1:2, the problem seems worse. <br /> <br />Take a look of the photos I shot with my 5D Mark II (F18, with tripod, ambient light). I also tested with another adapter ring and my Canon 50D. The problem is the same. I wonder if you know the answer.<img src="http://picasaweb.google.com/roger.qiu/LeicaExperience#5492912365021887122" alt="" /><br>

Thanks a lot.</p><div></div>