jerry_coker

<p>Thanks again for all the replies and info. Steve ... thanks the the info. on the Raynox lenses and about heat absorbing glass filters. I definitively need to get this projector in a bigger room with a projector screen. Right now I'm using it in a small space (room). Charles ... thanks for the heads up ... I should have noticed that before I posted the link!<br>

Today I received the projector tray and also some more vintage sports slides I won on eBay. So now I can load more than one slide at a time :-) Anyway ... the projector works fine and the Raynox lens seems OK, but hard to compare w/o anther lens. So what is the best way to clean a projector lens? I haven't done that yet and I see a good bit of fine dust particles on the outside of the lens. I thought I'd go ahead now and clean both sides of the lens, in a proper way. Can I use a camera lens cloth? What about a liquid substance ... just a bit of water? Once I've cleaned the lens I'm going to try the projector in a larger room (I really need a projector screen), so I can see the slides at a much larger size. I think that will help me better evaluate the lens. BTW ... this Kodak Carousel 5600 projector came with the remote, an extra bulb and the built-in viewer/Slide-Scan. All for $10. The tray was $5. Seems like a good deal ... although now I want to a projector screen :-) Thanks again for all the assistance!</p>

<p>Thanks for all the replies and info. John ... thanks for mentioning that I can just slide the slides into the slot until my tray arrives ... I didn't think of that! I Googled the Navitar 70-125 f/2.8 lens ... is this the correct lens? (see Amazon link below):<br>

http://www.amazon.com/Sony-Optical-Navitar-357MCZ501-Projection/dp/B004CFIRXG<br>

One last question. Since I will be wanting to view collectible vintage 35mm color slide transparencies mounted in cardboard (most created in the 1950's/60's by professional sports photographers) ... should I be worried about possible damage to the slides when using the Carousel 5600 projector (or any other projector for that matter), e.g. possible problems with the loading and unloading of slides from the projector/slide tray mechanism? As Dan described the "pop" and curving of the slide, in relation to the "C" lenses, it got me to wondering about how projectors (and heat) might cause wear to the slides over time. I suppose I should consider having them scanned first for archiving/safety reasons. However ... my initial plan was to buy a nice scanner later when I have more money. My budget is kind of lean at the moment which was one of my reasons for buying a less expensive slide projector so I could enjoy my slides right now. Just curious. Thanks again for the assistance!</p>

<p>If this is not the correct forum for these questions, please point me in the right direction (I didn't see a vintage projectors and equipment forum, but I may have just missed it).<br>

Today I bought a Kodak Carousel 5600 35mm Slide Projector at my local Salvation Army for $10. It seems to work OK (powers-up, lamp works, remote works, etc.), however I can't fully test it till I get a carousel tray which I just bought on eBay for a few dollars (Kodak Carousel Transvue 80). While I'm waiting for the tray to arrive, so I can to test everything out to make sure it works, I thought I'd ask a question or two about slide projector lenses. The 5600 projector came with a Raynox projection lens (100-150mm), made in Japan. I put the lens in the projector with no problem, although no light shines through it with the lamp on. However, I think that is by design according to the manual (Dark-screen shutter latch). Anyway ... does anyone know if Raynox lenses came standard with these Kodak projectors? I kind of doubt it. I figured it came with a Kodak lens and whoever last owned the projector replaced it with the Raynox and/or kept the Kodak lens before giving this projector to the Salvation Army. This Raynox lens seems rather low-end in quality/construction ... but I could be wrong as I know nothing about 35mm projector lenses ... and until I get the slide tray I can't test it. I do see in the 5600 manual, under "Auxiliary Equipment", that Kodak made 3 lenses for this model projector. The:<br>

<br />Ektanar C Lens 102 mm f/2.8<br>

Ektanar C Lens 127 mm f/2.8<br>

Ektanar C Zoom Lens 102 to 152 mm f/3.5<br>

<br />Are any of the 3 lenses above preferable to the Raynox? Are there any other better lenses that will work in this model projector, that are Kodak, or not Kodak lenses?<br>

<br />At this point I should probably tell you that I bought the Kodak 5600 slide projector to view/show vintage slides of sports photographers who created 35mm color slide transparencies mounted in cardboard during the 1950's/60's (I just started collecting these kinds of slides). This 5600 projector is really just a stepping stone to purchasing a nice scanner to have the slides digitized. But for now I'd like to view them via a decent vintage slide projector with a nice lens. I think the 5600 will be a fine projector. But I'm not sure about the Raynox lens. I don't mind spending a little more money on a decent lens, assuming I'm not thrilled with the Raynox. Any pointers, assistance or comments appreciated. Thanks!</p>

<p>Great thread! So I just started doing the DIY poor man's version of 8mm film transfer to DV tape using a variable speed projector (Sankyo 2000H), DV camcorder (JVC GR series) and projecting on white paper. The primary problems I'm having so far are:<br>

1) For some reason my camcorder has focus issues primarily when the film is transitioning from dark footage to bright footage, or when there is a lot of movement (like a crowd of people moving forward) or when there is a short splice of white leader between scenes (short splicing between scenes must have been common for home movie film-makers in the 50's/60's). The only way I have found so far to correct for the out-of-focus between transitions is to manually ride the variable speed control on the projector while filming. This doesn't always work and certainly isn't ideal though. My camcorder is set for manual focus and 1/60 shutter. QUESTION: Is there another setting on camcorders to correct focus problems like this?<br>

2) Loss of brightness, i.e., the video is considerably darker than the film. QUESTION: Is there a camcorder setting to increase the brightness or maybe this can be done later on the computer via software? I played around with the "iris" and "exposer" settings on my camcorder, but didn't help.<br>

3) Color is duller on video than film. I played around with the "white balance" setting on my camcorder, but didn't find anything to correct for this.<br>

So maybe all of the above are normal for this process, but I'll keep trying. The focus problem is the biggest issue, at present. Any advice/comments appreciated, particularly with camcorder settings as I believe that is where most of my problems lay (and where I have the least experience). Thanks!</p>