alex_guzun

<p>this is a P 105mm<br>

<img src="http://farm2.staticflickr.com/1421/5100125389_e7df7c4e02_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="429" /></p>

<p>Hope to see Stefan here, soon<br>

http://www.flickr.com/groups/plustek_opticfilm_120/</p>

<p>C'Mon guys don't tell me what not to do :)<br />Im not a beginer and i know how to manipulate with mirrors, and Sebastian you would surprised how can i restore dirty mirrors from gummy old light seals ;)<br>

<br />It just never happend to me before to not able to unlock mirror by known B or M250 mechanical way.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>User Lithium grease but for me it is stiff (micro nikkor 55/2.8)<br>

last time i used Tamiya 87025 Ceramic Grease (or Tamiya 87099 Cera-Grease, can't remember for sure now) , that was good, also bought Tamiya 53175 Medium Friction Grease, Tamiya 53176 Hard Friction Grease and Tamiya53174 Soft Friction Grease but even soft was very stiff :(<br>

And what i know for sure, every lens has different helicoid, so one grease won't wonk equal for all lenses</p>

<p>Im from EU so no US service :(<br>

Foam internally? What foam do you mean? or just guessing?</p>

<p><img src="http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7086/7187566486_a627b731fe_z.jpg" alt="" width="640" height="480" /><br>

if i press "1" i can advance<br>

What is "2", it moves freely and only touched by small pin under it at the end of advance<br>

"3" is realse button<br>

mirror is still stucked</p>

<p>Hi all,<br>

got an FE2, and mirror is stuck, i always released it turning dial to B or M250, but not this time. Also tried fresh batteries. Advance level is stucked also.<br>

Please how to unlock?<br>

Read somewhere i need to open bottom plate and manually press something.<br>

Thank you for any suggestion.<br>

Alex</p>

<p>maybe it will be available in EU before US, like you did with Plustek OpticFilm 8200i<br>

and price category? Sub 1000 or over 1000?</p>

<p>did want to open new thread,<br />please what are the must have lenses for sq-a?<br>

and what is the diff between sq-a and sq-ai, except higher price (newer) and better flash for sq-ai<br>

i heard sq-ai has polycarbonate body (whole or just side panels?), how does it compare with older sq-a in handle and use?</p>

<p>Hi All,<br>

recently i got mint looking f4 body for about 130usd, all is like new.. just not the right part of the upper left lcd, it has some bleeding (frame count or time for A mode).<br />I think to replace it, price for repair part is about 100usd, not a low price.. but still better that buy new f4, pay postage, then i can find out it has some bleed again (f4 suffers from the issue) and who know how much it will cost me overall ;) (not to mention 100usd for P screen and 100usd for mb-20, or please help me to understand craig list, coz im from EU) And my body is in truly mint condition.<br>

So.. let say i have new LCD, now question is... how to prevent new lcd bleed? Why it bleeds? All coz of impact or lcd itself?<br>

Thank you</p>

<p>Guys, i have D60 and SB600 flash too, just wanted to answer.. what to buy to be able to trogger off camera? And i will buy chinese flash later could i add it to the flash group?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>i do repairs ;)<br />this is 135/2.8 ai<br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4074/4827447088_46a1350e98.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="335" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4137/4826732971_e449fd284c.jpg" alt="" width="500" height="375" /><br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4826734691_a1a268292d.jpg" alt="" width="375" height="500" /> <br>

<img src="http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4141/4826729379_1831c16ab8.jpg" alt="" width="375" height="500" /><br>

plus other lenses, not shown here</p>