cts

Hello.<p>

Could you add the "number of views" stats in the "Download CSV file of

info about all photos in your portfolio" function ?<p>

Thanks

Hello.<p>

Could you add the "number of views" stats in the "Download CSV file of

info about all photos in your portfolio" function ?<p>

Thanks

Hello, photo.net administrators.<p>

Could you add the "number of views" statistic in the "Download CSV

file of info about all photos in your portfolio" function ?<p>

This would be very useful to me for making a history of the growing

rate of these counters.<p>

Thanks

I agree with the second suggestion.<p>

Personnally, I upload a picture and wait to see reactions of people who marked me interesting for themselves. And then, many days later I submit it for critique.<p>

So my pictures never get listed in the "24 hours" or "3 days" summaries.<p>

Therefore, this would be interesting that the delay starts at the critique submitting moment.

Hello, Andrew.<p>

Thank you Michael for praising my work. I'll answer here instead of replying to mail, other people may be interested.<p>

The best f-stop I use is usually f5.6 or f8. But for you, this depends on the lens you use. For my lenses (Nikon zooms, f2.8 to f22) this is the best sharpness performance.<p>

If I want to have branches around spots of light, I may use f11. Higher, it is said there is more diffraction. But again, you should know your lenses performance, which may be different than mine.<p>

For example, I have a Sony DSC-V3 that has an f-stop range from f2.8 to f8. On some reviews it is said to be best at f4. And at f8 it may have some diffraction problems. I didn't test it yet, but I'll do it soon, just to be sure.<p>

About flare: I often use the lens' hood. Yes, by night. Either for avoiding parasite reflections, or for protecting the front lens from rain. About flare, avoid lights in the limit of the frame, they will produce a halo of parasite light. Or compose <i>with</i> the light. Using a UV filter may also cause unwanted internal reflections invisible to the eye, but very visible on the film.<p>

About ISO, when I use films I use 50, 64 or 100 ISO. My beloved is Provia 100. I'm also experimenting Kodak E100VS (very saturated, ONLY by night) and sometimes Reala 100. With digital, I stay at 100 ISO for minimum noise. And alaways use a tripod. A table-top tripod is often useful, especially for my lightweight Sony camera.<p>

For further info, you can read <a href="http://www.thenocturnes.com">http://www.thenocturnes.com</a>, and his resources page, or buy a good book on night photography. I have this one (in french): <a href="http://www.amazon.fr/exec/obidos/ASIN/2862581801/qid=1109112097/sr=1-16/ref=sr_1_8_16/171-3762868-5329852">La photographie de nuit</a>. Also, the <a href="http://www.fredparker.com/ultexp1.htm">Ultimate exposure computer</a>, which could be helpful to estimate the right exposure, even if now with histograms it is much more easier ...<p>

At last: don't judge your night pitcures from prints made at your local photo shop. They often use "standard" settings that "crop" the shadow and highlight details of your negative. To be sure, use slide film, and bracket. With digital, shoot like it was slide, and bracket like a fool ... :-)))<p>

Feel free to ask any question, I'm glad to transmit some experience.

Max,<br>

The Coolscan V and 5000 seem to solve some focusing problems with the 4000, so I'm interested in one of these new models.

<p>

Jack,<br>

I heavily used the mutlisampling functionality on my Minolta Elite, and I can say that it is very interesting for the dark parts of my slides (I'm doing several night pictures with mostly dark areas). If this feature is available on the Coolscan V (with Vuescan !), I will surely choose it over the 5000 ED (that is twice expsensive). If not, I'll be obliged to rethink about my budget.

<p>

Thanks for any help.

Hello.<p>

I'm considering changing my scanner (Minolta Elite) for a Nikon

Coolscan V, and I can't find a clear answer to my question:

<p>

<ul>Is the Nikon Coolscan V able to do single-pass

<u>multi-sampling</u> with Vuescan ?</ul>

<p>

I read that the Nikon Scan software can't do this with the Coolscan V,

and that Vuescan is capable of multi-pass single-sampling, which is

absolutely not the same. But no info about multi-sampling.<p>

I'm afraid of having to upgrade to a Coolscan 5000 ED to have this

functionality ...<p>

Thanks for any help.

Can you try a scanner reset from Minolta softwware ?

<br>

Push CTRL+SHIFT+I

<p>

I have the same banding problems with an older Minolta Elite (tests here: <a href="http://christian.tsotras.free.fr">http://christian.tsotras.free.fr/</a>).

About Fedex in France:<p>

In France Fedex does not pass the films in X-ray machines. But French cusotms do. This is what Fedex people told me.

<p>

I think the "best" solution is to bring your films with you.

Just a personal point of view: I have an F100 and looked what the D100 looks like in a short try (in my hands), just by curiosity.

<p>

It doesn't look like as solid as the F100. I have more pleasure shooting with the F100, which feels very comfortable. The D100 looks "cheap" compared to the F100. Also, the viewfinder is not so comfortable than the F100's (I wear glasses), and smallest, due to the 1.5x factor (but this is normal for DSLRs...).

<p>

Of course, the D100 is based on the F80 (N80) body, so ...

For slides, use the "Image" setting (device tab), and not "Slide".<br>

For negs, use the "generic" film setting (color tab).

<p>

I usually obtain the good results with

<ul>

<li>"Log Dark" + "brightness 0.8"

<li>"Log Medium" + "brightness 0.6"

<li>"Log Light" + "brightness 0.4"

</ul>

<p>

Of course, it depends on the slide density/neg detail, you should use this like a starting point to find what settings correspond to each scan.<p>

Each scan has its best settings, that you have to find by try and error.

Same for me.<br>

I suppose (as said above) that between S and M, there is a mechanical switch, intstead of between C and S where the switch should be only electronic.<p>

Perhaps Nikon people could confirm this ...

And for the folders list ? Do you have a search engine for them too ?<p>

Personally, I'd like to find all folders containing the words "new york" or "paris".

<br>But since the "folders list" page has been removed, I can't browse the photo.net database any more ...

<p>

Was this functionality deactivated because it used too much resources on the servers ?

Hello, photo.net administrators.

<p>

The "Browse Portfolios by photographer" functionality is deactivated

since around a week. Why ?

<p>

I used to browse portfolios by name, searching more efficiently for a

particular theme (New York pictures) than the very limited "Search"

function.

<p>

Thanks for your help.

Hello, photo.net administrators.<p>

Could you develop the possibility of sorting the pictures in the view

of a folder/roll, with the same criteria that we have in the "top

photos" tables ?<p>

It would be interesting to see wich pictures of a photographer (and

mine first) were more rated, more viewed, best rated, etc ...<p>

Thanks.

Hello, Brian.

<p>

When navigating in the "Top photos" page, it would be useful to have a

small box "Jump to page" for visualizing the Nth page of the list.

<br>Actually, you have to click on "next" and download 15 times the

next page to access to the farest pictures.

<p>

Could you also add a small link about what does exactly mean

"Photographer's Average", "Photographer's Sum(s)" ?

<p>

Thanks.

This is a good system. But why waiting for <b>all</b> the pictures having 6 ratings before presenting the best pictures in the list ?

<br>This "blocks" the "evolution" of the good pictures, waiting for the less good ones beeing rated ...

<p>

Why not making this evolution from (1) to (2) for pictures that have been rated 6 times <u>and</u> that have more that X or Y in their average rating <u>before</u> Z days ?

I have a question about the webmaster "selected" pictures rating system.

<p>

The FAQ says:

<p>

"<i><b>How do I get my photo placed in the "Rate selected photos"

rotation?</b><p>

All uploaded photos that a photographer has made publicly viewable and

available for critique are candidates to be placed in the ratings

rotation. Each day approximately 100 photos are manually selected and

placed in the ratings rotation.<br>

</i>[...]<i><br>

If your photo is selected, it will appear in the ratings rotation

approximately two days after it was submitted.</i>"

<p>

<u>My Question</u>:<br>

It seems that selected photos are shown in the ratings rotation up to 6

or 7 ratings. After that, they seem to be excluded from this rotation,

while in the past the picture stayed online more days and received

more ratings.

<p>

Is it a new rule ?

<p>

Thanks for your help.