rene_theberge

<p>Ellis and CC: Thanks for your continuing thoughts.</p>

<p>Andrew: Thanks for your book suggestion. He'll be able to use natural light most of the time due to the many windows in his studio/home space, but you're right, there are those times...</p>

<p>Lex: He's already told me it has to have a tilt screen. Can you tell me your experience with the jpegs from the Fuji X A-1 and kit zoom? B&H has that kit within his price range, but I did read of some people finding the jpegs way off. If they're good, then this would perhaps be an easy solution.</p>

<p>Andy: Thanks for your suggestion. This is one of the strong possibilities.</p>

<p>Barry: Agreed.</p>

<p>Louis: Thanks for your suggestions which I'll pass on.<br>

Ellis: I agree that the lighting is more critical, but given his limited funds (and aesthetic choice on his part), he'll be using natural light for the near future. I should have mentioned this in the original post. OTOH hand his birthday is coming in a couple of months, so maybe this would be a good gift.<br>

CC: I agree with your thoughts in general. I started with mirrorless as I'm into the OMD system and am familiar with m43 and mirrorless. His budget is $500. I think the budget buster here is the lens. If he went the Nikon route as you suggest, any thoughts on a relatively inexpensive lens that is good for close up as he needs to get within a foot for some of the smaller pieces?</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

My son is starting out on his career as a potter. He's looking for a very reasonably priced digital (i.e. used) camera/lens kit to shoot his work for his website and for entering competitions. It can be any brand, but needs to have very good jpeg color and high resolution. The objects (cups, bowls, pitchers, etc.) being photographed are small ranging approximately from 3" high by 2" wide to 1' high by 6' wide. The camera will be only used for this purpose. He has a tripod and head, background, etc.<br>

I do mostly nature and landscape photography, so I'm a little at a loss to advise him. Any suggestions would be most helpful.<br>

Thanks.<br>

Rene</p>

<p>Larry,<br>

Thank you for both your replies. I do update regularly and I've been following the Aperture updates. Your second reply goes to the heart of my question. I believe Aperture is importing the RAW files as all the metadata is available. Aperture just won't open the RAW files as the format (ORF) is not currently supported. If I understand you correctly, then my current practice of importing RAW+JPEG files from the OMD (which Aperture does automatically) means that the RAW files which do not open now will open upon the software update. <br>

Thanks again for your help and the link to Aperture Expert.</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I recently purchased the new Olympus OMD camera with which I'm quite happy. However, I use (as a newbie to processing software) Apple Aperture which does not currently support conversion of the OMD's RAW files. When I've downloaded RAW files I get a blacked out file with the message "unsupported image format." I'd like to know if Aperture will automatically process these raw files when it is updated or should I be doing something else with files (other than leaving them on my SD card) such as storing them on my desktop and then importing them into Aperture once it is able to process them.<br>

I am currently shooting in RAW plus jpeg in anticipation of that time.<br>

Thanks for your help.<br>

Rene</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>Thank you to everyone for all your suggestions so far. They are very helpful and has sparked some thinking on my part. I had not planned to carry a laptop because of weight/theft considerations, so it was most interesting to me to see what people are doing.</p>

<p>One suggestion that was given to me off line was to purchase an ipad with a photo connector and download my shots to the ipad, edit, and then email the remaining shots home that way I'd have two backups and the original. Of course, I'd still have the theft issue, but the weight issue would be resolved.</p>

<p>Rene</p>

<p>Hi,</p>

<p>I'll be traveling to Japan for two weeks - probably a once in a life time trip - in May in visit my son who is living there for a year in Okayama. We plan to travel around the country, especially Kyoto and Hiroshima. I was wondering about the best way to back up my photos to make sure I have a spare copy in case of accidents or loss of my SD cards. I'll be using an intermediate Pentax DSLR, while others will have smaller P&S cameras.<br>

All of us are reasonably computer literate and willing to navigate various equipment/systems, although we all prefer Macs.<br>

Any suggestions?<br>

Also, any suggestions of places to visit/photograph or things to do are welcome.<br>

Thanks for your help,</p>

<p>Rene</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

My brother in law generously loaned me his Voitlander Bessa R for "an indefinite period" as he is not using it any longer. This is my first rangefinder and I'm having a lot of fun with it. However it is older and a little beat-up. I'm wondering, as I use it more, where is a good place to get a CLA and/or repairs if needed. The place I would normally turn to (Precision Camera in Conn. fairly close by) has not worked on one in over two years.</p>

<p>Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Rene</p>

<p>Thank you for all your helpful suggestions thus far. I appreciate your thoughtfulness. In the order of your posts:</p>

<p>First, to all who suggested Gitzo, I checked out their site and there are some good possibilities there. I wasn't aware of the Traveller series which seems to be what I need.<br>

Mark, given the nature of my physical problems, I can't hang anything around my neck, although your idea of a Rolliflex type camera is a good one. Walt, Rick and Robert, thanks for the info on the Velbon. I'll look at that too.<br>

Michael, yes I have been here awhile and hope to be here quite awhile longer. Thanks for the other thread; it was interesting and helpful. THe MF back/finder problem was half sorted out, but I haven't had the time to take it to be repaired. Hopefully soon, even though I can't carry it anymore as it's nice to have around for still lifes, etc. Ah, the service dog! Maybe in the future.</p>

<p>Due to physical problems, I've had to increasingly lighten my load over the last few years (and photo.net patrons have helped me with that in other forums). I'm now down to mostly carrying a rangefinder (Voitlander Bessa-R) and an extra lens or two. I'm looking for a very light and compact tripod for occasions when I'm doing landscapes as I can no longer really hold a camera steady. I remember that several years back, the late Herb Keppler of Pop Photo had designed such a tripod which was then manufactured in Japan. Does anyone know if this, or something similar, is still available. For me, at this point, lightness and compactness outweighs other features. Oh, as tall as possible would also be nice as it is very hard for me to bend over (I'm 5'9" in height).</p>

<p>Thanks for your help,</p>

<p>Rene</p>

Thanks for all your help. I'll have to wait to follow Martin's suggestion as there's a roll of film in the holder. I'll finish it off in the next

few days using a hand held meter. Danny's suggestion on the back being locked might also be the problem as the lever doesn't

seem to go over right. I'll have to borrow another back and see it that works.

Bruce,

Thanks, I had cleaned them before, but I did it once again and you got me halfway there! The meter is now working, but the

darkslide light still comes on. Any further thoughts?

Recently, I took out my RZ 67 with the AE Prizm Finder I after it had sat unused in a backpack for several months. Previously it had worked fine, but

when I attempted to use it this time, there seems to be something wrong with the electronic interface. Mechanically, the camera works great, but

when I put the Finder on it and depress the shutter halfway, instead of a meter reading, all I get is the center red warning light which (according to the

manual) means the darkslide is in place even though the darkslide is not in place. It has a new battery. Any thoughts or suggests for what I could do

before taking it in for repair? Is it the Finder or the body?

Thanks Bruce. I think I got it. It was the last column, I was unsure about.

Rene

Bruce,

Can you explain this chart, please.

Rene

Hi,

I've reviewed past questions about Portland, but did not quite find what I was looking for (doesn't mean it wasn't there, just that I couldn't find it!). I'll be

traveling to Portland with my wife next weekend while she attends a conference. I'll have Saturday (20th), free to roam around. Since it's a 3.5 hour

drive to get there and we're leaving the next day, I'd like suggestions of landscape/seascape locations within a short distance of downtown, say about

30 minutes. Also, due to mobility issues for me, hikes longer than a half mile or so are also out of the question.

Thank you for your help.

Rene

Thank you, Barry. I tried the battery charge, but it made no difference. Off to Nikon for

repair, I guess.

Rene

Hi,

About a year ago, I bought a Coolpix P5000 and used it with satisfaction for a few months. However,

due to an increasing work load, I had to put photography aside for the last several months. When I

picked up the camera again recently, I thought I noticed something different. I seem to remember that

when I zoomed out (or in) the lens that the optical viewfinder changed also as does the LCD viewer. It

is not doing that now. Am I misremembering or is something wrong with the camera? I can't find any

reference to this in the manual or in Nikon's advertising or reviews of the camera. Can someone tell me

if I'm getting senile?

Rene

Hello Everyone,

First, let me thank all of you for your kind and generous responses to my question. You

have all given me something to think about. It is also helpful to know that others have

dealt with these kinds of problems.

That said I'd like to respond at least minimally to several of your suggestions.

Ray House - These are helpful suggestions. My tripod legs are already wrapped in foam,

but the pad is great. I've been taking pilates lessons in how to move which has been a big

help.

Bueh B. - I love the idea of a Mamyia 7 and have been thinking of it for awhile, but it is out

of my price range as of yet.

Victor Ho - Victor, thank you for your thoughtful advice. Without going into all the details,

surgery is not an option (nor the wisest course of action) right now. Perhaps in the future.

Art Haykin - As always, Art, you manage to find humor in a situation. I've done this to

some extent, but it is not always a convenient solution.

Tom Gardner - I have a similar regime to keep me moving, but sometimes just the

slightest wrong move lays me out for several weeks. Having to be conscious of movement

every second is tiring, but it does force one to learn how to focus. I've been trying to turn

it into a meditation practice. I must say your situation makes me feel quite fit and healthy!

Thanks for the help in keeping it all in perspective.

Your thoughtful and extensive response offers a lot to think about. I will follow-up on the

ThinkTank Photo idea. A new ball head is in the works as although my main head has

been the wonderful (for marco and landscape), it is a very heavy Bogan 410 Gear head.

Tripod suggestions are useful as is your other advice, but as you say a step at a time due

to cost considerations.

Bill Tate - Thanks for the encouragement.

Again, thanks to all for your responses. Additional thoughts, particularly for medium

format equipment, are welcome.

Rene

Hi,

Due to changes in my physical capability (i.e. two herniated disks in my lower back, plus getting older -

60+), I can no longer carry the equipment load I have in the past nor walk quite as far or high, and I need

some advice about retooling. The majority of my work has been macro and landscape (see

www.renetheberge.com) on a tripod (can't really hold a camera steady for a variety of other reasons) for

which I've used a Nikon F90X and a Mamiya RZ with an assortment of lenses, filters, etc. I've carried this

gear in two types of packs by Lowpro; one a backpack with all the right staps, belts, etc. to make it as easy

as possible and the other a pack with wheels. Both are too much at this point. I need to simplify and still

be able to do a range of photography. I think I've reached the end of my macro work as a main focus,

although I'd still want to dabble occasionally. I'll probably work more in the areas of landscape and am

open to new areas. One other point, I'm really not interested in transitioning to digital (I do have a pocket

sized digital for snaps and that is enough) and want to stay with film. I'd like advice on on a light weight

gear package - 35mm or medium format - that I can easily carry around (including tripod), but will still

allow me to shoot a range of subjects.

Thank you for your thoughts.

Rene

I do a lot of macro work and use a Bogen/Manfrotto 410 gear head exclusively for that work

(www.renetheberge.com). The advantage for macro work is that you can precisely frame your

shot and easily make very small adjustments that would not be possible with any ballhead

(i.e. 1-2mm adjustments in three directions). It also works great for portraits. OTOH, it's

big, heavy and clunky. I've dragged it all over the place for non-macro landscapes, etc. and

often thought about getting a smaller, lighter ballhead for that kind of shooting.

Rene

Go to the Quabbin Resevoir. Check out the areas around the Main entrance on route 9. The

bridge is now closed (due to post 9/11 security concerns), so you'll have to go down the road

a mile or so (east of main entrance) to get into the resevoir. There are lots of other

entrances, but this is a good place to start. Google for information.

Rene

One more vote for the Bogan 410 geared head. I've been using this head for macro

photography for 10 years and for precision, along with a focusing rail, it can't be beat. A

somewhat clunky, but cheap and servicable focusing rail is the manfrotto.

I have tried to customize the unified forum a dozen times. Each time I do, it works until the next time.

For example, If I click off "Nature," Medium Format," Casual Conversations," only, then the system will

reset to that and work fine. However, the next time I return to pnet and go to the unified forum, I get all

the forums. When I go into customize, only the forums I previously chose are checked off. If I click reset

at the bottom, then it works fine again. Am I doing something wrong? I don't understand why I have to

reset every time. In the past this was not a problem.

Thanks for your help.

Rene