matt_white4

<p>The E-PL1's movie exposure mode is set separately from the still mode. In the main menu's settings area, look for section I, Movie. The mode is probably set to P or A. Change it to M, and you'll be able to set shutter speed on the camera and use the manual aperture on the lens.</p>

<p>I once had an EM. The lack of full manual control was very frustrating and limiting.</p>

<p><a href="http://www.photoeditorx.com/">The website</a> is hilarious and sad all at the same time, especially the "before" and "after" photos at the top. They take a good-looking woman in a normal photo and turn her into Odo from Deep Space 9.<br>

It also looks like Lucas Godfrey is one careless step away from from a GPL violation, too. Dude had better step lightly, lest he get a not-so-nice letter from the legal folks at the <a href="http://sfconservancy.org/">Software Freedom Conservancy</a>.</p>

<p>As far as I know, the only normal everyday situations that can "lock" the shutter of a T1i are shooting without an SD card (and not specifically setting it to allow shooting without a card in the menus), or when the autofocus is hunting. Barring mechanical failure, I can't think of what's going wrong.</p>

<p>If I'm going to bolt a full-size and full-weight EF or EF-S lens on top of an adaptor ($200 at B&H) on top of the EF-M ($800, cheapest kit), why shouldn't I just get a T4i ($770, body only) and get a built-in viewfinder, fast autofocus, and physical controls?<br>

The EF-M is an overpriced, underfeatured, underperforming, unusable-in-sunlight fashion accessory.</p>

<p>Tamron has relatively generous "spiffs", aka kickbacks, for salespeople. I'm not saying that's what's going on here, but as a former salesperson I'm a suspicious b*****d.<br>

<br />I'm also an owner of the Tokina 11-16, and would highly recommend it. It's razor sharp, even wide open.</p>

<p>Are your photos of the store and merchandise, or do you need to have people (customers, staff,etc) in the photos as well? If the former, perhaps a good tripod would do the trick for a lot less cash than a new lens.</p>

<p>I use Crashplan, and I have no problem with my Canon CR2s and Olympus ORFs being backed up and restored. I just did a test restore of a couple of raws to make sure. I'll second Alex Cowley's suggestion to make sure that CR2 isn't in the filename exclusion list.</p>

<p>There's also an open source project called <a href="http://qtpfsgui.sourceforge.net">Luminance HDR</a>, roughly equivalent to Photomatix in features.</p>

<p>I'll second the Tokina 11-16/2.8 suggestion. It's not cheap and doesn't have as wide a zoom range as the others, but it's sharp and fast. It's also the only lens that I've ever shot hyperfocal at f/2.8. That's a great advantage for indoor video on my T3i, there's no focus motor sounds in the audio.</p>

<p>First thought: An IS-equipped silent-focusing replacement for my wasp-on-caffeine-pills-sounding 28/2.8? Great! Sounds like a good competitor to Nikon's 35/1.8 AF-S. Not quite as fast, but slightly wider, and the IS will help. I'm sure the price will be in the same ballpark.<br>

Second thought: Eight hundred dollars?!?! Is Canon kidding? Unless they slap a red ring on this thing and shove in a whole lotta exotic glass, there is no way on earth that USM and IS should multiply the cost of a lens by three times! These are mature technologies. R&D costs on USM and IS have long since been paid off. There's no need to overcharge like this.</p>

<p>The only reliable way to trigger the YN without any extra gear is to set the the T3i's built-in flash to normal firing and the flash to S2 mode. This is the easy part.<br>

The real trick will be in making sure the built-in flash doesn't contribute to the exposure if you don't want it to. The YN's slave is infrared-sensitive, so you could use a Nikon SG-31R (12 bucks from Adorama) or similar gadget. You'll need to make sure there's a line of sight from the T3i to the front of the flash.<br>

You could also turn the built-in flashes exposure compensation down to -2, turn the ISO down, and turn the YN's power up. It's not quite as good, but doesn't require buying anything else.</p>

<p>I'm pretty happy with the LG IPS236V I bought a month ago. Good value for the money.</p>

<p>I think that linked page needs to be updated by Canon. I was under the impression that the only Canon-branded flashes that work automatically with Canon DSLRs are the EX series. The older E's and EZ's are for 35mm A-TTL bodies.</p>

<p>Most reputable accountants would classify gift cards and deposits as balance sheet liabilities, and not as income already earned. The earning has yet to take place.<br>

Not that it makes much real-world difference, of course. Even employees have a better chance of seeing cash than gift card holders do in a bankruptcy.</p>

<p>It works on my T3i and my older XS. It should work just fine on a T2i.</p>

<p>If you're referring to an auto-thyristor mode, then no. It's either full manual or TTL only. There's no PC port, either.</p>

<p>I'm sure the new iphone has a better camera than many other phones, but that's like saying getting punched in the face is better than being stabbed or shot. It's still not all that great in absolute terms.</p>

<p>Is your caps lock on?</p>

<p>I'm curious about the video capability. On paper, it looks the same as my "lowly" T3i.</p>

<p>Actually, the Nissin 866 does work with inexpensive radio triggers, including all versions of the cactus. It's the lower Nissin 622 that doesn't work with non-ETTL radio triggers.</p>

<p>Another command-line utility is exiv2. I use it under linux, but I know people who use it under OSX just fine.</p>

<p>I have the Tokina 11-16 (albeit in Canon mount), and I'm not sure that the lack of ability to autofocus would even be an issue. Even wide open at 16mm, it has an enormous depth of field.</p>

<p>A year or so ago, I gave my then-13-year-old niece an older but perfectly functional Canon Rebel XT. She's still got a way to go on the technical side, but she's got a talent for composition. She especially likes the 50/1.8's shallow depth of field.</p>

<p>I'll make another vote for the 55-250. It's a very sharp lens, with good build quality for the price.</p>