tom_bronaugh

<p>I have always read that a 50mm lens was the closest thing to "normal" when attached to a film camera, meaning it approximates the human visual field. If this is true, for an APS sensor, which usually adds 1.6x to the focal length, a 35mm or 40mm lens would approximate a "normal" lens on digital. I will tell you though, on my Pentax K200d, it seems that my 50mm Pentax-FA lens looks really quite normal, and my 40mm limited definitely gives a mild "wide angle" effect, even though in theory, it should no be so. Does anyone else think this is true? Or maybe I have not shot enough film in the past to remember what effect these different focal lengths really have.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses. I will tell you that I shot a few more test shots today, and a few came out fuzzy, and then I noted the batteries were quite low. After changing to a fresh set, there does not seem to be the same issue. I think it may have simply been a power issue. I will continue to put it to the test and see how it goes. Thank you all for the commentary.</p>

<p>I have read some posts here regarding this lens, and elsewhere, with very good opinion for the most part. None were tested on my particular camera though, a K200D. This camera body obviously is not pro level, but I have obtained many fine photographs with it, especially using limited primes (40mm and 70mm), the 50mm FA, as well as my Pentax-M 105mm. I must say though, I have been quite disappointed in the inability of this Tamron to accurately autofocus, even in pretty good light ( such a new and well- lit hockey rink, F2.8-4, ISO 640-800). It does "appear" lock onto focus, and I get a focus lock signal, but the shot still looks blurry ( I mean out of focus, not blurry from movement/ slow shutter speed). This even happened today in bright sun at f/5.6 ! Could it be I need to return it for a replacement? I just have never had trouble like this with this camera body with other lenses. <br>

Note that this problem seems to be intermittent in nature, and I can't seem to put my finger on a cause or set of circustances that will cause it repeatedly.<br>

Any commentary would be much appreciated.</p>

<p>-Thanks in advance</p>

<p>Here are the Shots I failed to upload previously</p>

<p>For those interested here are a few quick shots done at ISO 1600, pentax k200D, with only one single overhead fluorescent light, with my 'new' viv 28-90 series 1. It is heavy as hell and I really like it so far. Maybe I will think differently after i use it for a whole day. But hey, it only set me back $45 on Ebay, and shots are as good as if not better than my kit lens. I'll post more if there is any interest. Photos were adjusted for black level and noise control d/t high ISO.</p>

<p>For what it is worth... I bought a premade precision-cut pinhole cap (0.22mm size hole) for my pentax 200d DSLR, made by a company called Rising. The information sheet says "45mm focal length" although this seems a bit arbitrary. So I set my camera's input focal length to 45mm, aperture approximately f/200, and the results were very blurry (as apposed to soft/dreamy like I was expecting). Obviously all pinhole shots will be a pretty soft, especially on digital, but I was quite dissappointed. I have not seen anything online about how to improve on this problem, except for the pinhole precsion itself, which I feel is pretty good form this adapter. So I started just randomly changing the input focal lenth. To my eyes, taking multiple shots of a stationary object under the same lighting, the longer focal length input settings produced better sharpness, up to about 135mm, then it worsened again. This was a quick study and I'd like to do it again and see if it is my imagination or not. Has anyone else tried this? Is there any other solution to getting the "everything infocus and nothing sharp" effect we are looking for with this technique?</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

Can anyone tell me if there an adapter for using voitlander and/or leica lenses on a pentax k-mount body? If so, where could one be purchased?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>I just did a photo sesion with a client and her dog. It was fun. I can't really imagine doing such a shoot in a studio. Seems like a pretty un-doglike envrironment. I have another shoot pending as well. Pet owners are insane for thier pets usually, and I think pet photography is a good niche if there are none in your area.</p>

<p>I bought this lens, used, and I'm not too impressed so far. It is a fairly new lens in perfect condition as far as I can tell. Auotfocus works mechanically well, but often seems a bit inaccurate, and image quality is not much better than my kit lens as far as I can see. However, my main question is whether or not anyone has had trouble with viewing the LCD when it is attached? Everytime I go to make an adjustment with the function button, such as WB or ISO, the menu only comes up for a second, then immediately shuts off as soon as I push any other button (such as the direction buttons). I have not made any custom menu changes, and this definitely does not happen with any other lens attached, or with no lens attached for that matter, be it manual, Pentax-A, DA, FA, etc. I thought at first it was the lens kicking into AF mode automatically, but I don't hear it / see it trying to focus. Could it be a firmware issue? Anyone have any thoughts?<br>

-Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>I have been struggling also with fee schedules. I really have no idea what to charge. I am not a professional photographer, but my work is probably adequate for family portraits, low-key weddings, events, and the like. I seem to be getting more and more inquiries about my work lately, and I live is a small town so word travels fast. <em> </em>I'd like to become more involved in paying projects, and I currently have several shoots lined up, two paying and one free (my first wedding shoot and it is for a friend). I definitely feel uneasy charging my friend for the wedding, because I have never done one and I feel they cannot be too critical if I tell them up front that I'm still learning. And believe me it is a <em>very</em> informal wedding. Anyway, so far, I have not seen any real solid outline on how to charge and what to charge for in these articles, but I will keep searching. I presume one would work for an hourly rate for the shoot, and then charge extra for digital darkroom work? Does this include all post-shoot work? What if the client just wants the photos on disc and do the developing themselves. Anyway I would love to hear some very specific details from a pro or two concerning fee structure/pricing.</p>

<p>I have this lens (which is why I navigated to this page), but I haven't given it much use yet. The few I've taken have been pretty good so far. When I do, I will try to get so photos posted for review.</p>

<p>Q1: When using manual lenses with the k200d (my camera), I have noted mention of the green button for metering, but the owners manual is difficult to understand. Could someone explain the exact steps and/or sequence?. I have on old pentax-M 50mm f/1.7 I'd like to use.<br>

Q2: Also, I frequently make use of the focus-trap method when using my pentax-a lenses. I have been unable to do the same with a manual (pentax -m) lens. Is it possible to focus trap if the apperature ring has no "A" setting?<br>

Thanks in advance!</p>

<p>I have that same lens (Sigma 24mm 2.8). I really like it, but on my K200D it seems to distort facial features when shot too close. I mainly use it for macro work anyway.</p>

<p>Yes I can see now there are no electrical contacts on the TC at all, so it's pretty useless ---> file 13 unless someone can use it. </p>

<p>I have just noticed that all of a sudden, when I open (each and every) photo in the development module, an "old fashioned" preset is being automatically applied. I am suspicious that my wife has done this somehow by accident, because she has been tinkering with the program lately, although I have no real proof! Anyway, is there a settings or preferences adjustment I can make to stop this from happening? As it is now, I have to reset every photo immediatley after opening it.<br>

Thanks for any thoughts / suggestions</p>

<p>Thanks for the info!</p>

<p>I have an old soligar (sp?) teleconverter. I have attached it to my old 50mm prime f/2 lens, and attached that to my new Pentax 200d body. Seems to work fine, except I can't use the "A" setting with it on, so I can't focus trap... anyway, my question is, what effect does putting on a teleconverter have on the max aperature (minimum f/stop) ? How many stops do you think I would lose by attaching it (if any). Just wondering. It does give me a nice focal length for portraits, but I think I may giving up too much for this combo to be useful. I'm just trying to think of ways to make my old stuff useful.<br>

Thanks in advance</p>