markfields

<p>Dear Andrew,</p>

<p>Thank you for your info. I do have a g4 desktop and i am in the middle of upgrading the OS so I can run the 3800.<br>

I also have the Ibook and I had been told (by an epson rep I might ad) that I needed a Powerbook. Of course I do know that its the OS that is important but I appreciate you pointing that out.<br>

Do you happen to own the 3800? Happy with it? any news about its successor?<br>

Thanks again,</p>

<p>Mark</p>

<p>just wondering?</p>

<p>I have been told I need a Mac pro. </p>

<p>Gracious thanks,<br>

Mark</p>

PS

I decided to send it back to B and H in NYC. it is clear to me that something was wrong with the batch. But i still would

enjoy hearing others thoughts.

Mark

I would like to ask a question. I have bought a box of epson Exhibition fine art paper- the fiber paper). I love it. I had

had

8 by 10 samples and there was no problem. I bought a box of 13 by 19 paper. and it has a curl like warped section that

runs the long way about 3/4 of the way through long way of the whole batch, almost as if it was standing on its side and

it kind of sagged and developed a warped strip through all of it all 25 sheets. The surface is not damaged in any way.

Does anyone know if I lay it flat with a light weight flat weight over the batch if it will flatten that area? Could it be

defective? Will the moisture from the ink cause it to relax? Will moisture and time allow it to "relax"? I am not sure if I

could print them now and corner mount them and the warped strip (about 3 inches) would flatten. The prints would be

corner mounted, not dry/cold mounted and they would be over matted to 3/8th inch of the image area.

Has anyone else had this issue with this or any other paper? (my next choice is Hahnemuhle Baryta paper as it is a

little thicker. I was surprised to see this in such expensive paper. I did not see the in the 8 by 10's

I know if i were going to cold mount them this would probably not be a problem as I expect them to print ok since the

roller in my 2400 will hold it flat. I only corner mount my prints or use archival overlapping strips so if the warped section

does not flatten, it would still be there. But what about after they are printed?

I would take a chance on printing one or two to see what happens but i hope (smile) to return them to B and H in NYC

when I visit there next week.

any ideas?

Thanks,

mark

If you take out a matt black or photo black cartridge from a 2400- if I am switching ink and there is ink left in the cartridge, how best can

you store it for future use. Should I tape over the hole on the cartridge? Is that necessary? Do they "self seal" after removal?

Thanks,

mark

when I print on my 2400 and using hahnemuhle FAP, I get a wavy pattern in the paper, which you see

especially when you turn the paper against the light at an angle. its not in the images: its in the paper and

you can see it in repeated paterns up and down the paper...its most noticable in dark prints because of

how the light reveals the patterns. i think its some kind of interaction with the paper 'tension" and how

the ink is being absorbed.. any one else notice this? Please look at your FAP prints at an angle, especially

dark prints.. please let me know.

I used 10% reduced ink when I printed them.

many thanks

Mark Fields philadelphia

I know that his apper is about 300gsm.. but what is the thickness, (not the weight)?

I'd like to know how its thickness compares to say Hahnemuhle 308 rag, Hahnemuhle FAP, epson

Ultrasmooth fine Art.. which are all quite substantianl papers. I've used the Innova cotton smooth white

315... Iand I've used the crame silver museo

also, is the innova fibaprint semi-matte pretty much a white like the H 308 or is it warm like the natural

papers.

many many thanks,

mark

Has any one heard anything they can verify about successors to epsons 4800/9800 series pigment

printers? I "sort of" heard that their may be new ultrachrome printers coming late 2007?

thanks,

Mark

I am thinking of buying the 3800. Does anyone know if it will work with the mac os 10.2.4?

I know the epsons specs say a Os 10.4.7 but its hard to believe it won't work with an earlier system?

Does anyone know about this?

Thanks,

Mark

I am interested in the epson 3800. I know it does not take the roll feeder.

If i used fine art paper where you have to use the single sheet feeder... (not the main regular one)

can you print longer than 22' I mean if I cut down some 24 by 30 epson ultra smooth fine art or

hahnemuhle or Moab. and make the paper 17 by 37.. will the driver print longer than 22" using the single

sheet feeeder? I am interested in printing 16 by 24...using the fine art paper path.

has anyone actually done this?

many thanks in advance.

mark

Hi everyone..

I'm interested in the 3800. I know it does not take roll paper and i really don't need roll paper

convenience. the epson specs say it can use 17 by 22. I have heard/read that while it does not take roll

paper, its drivers can print to 37" if using the top feeder. I print on "fine art archival papers" ... like

Hahnemuhle 308 rag, hahnemuhle fine art pearl and moab entrada.. all of which have to go in the manual

back feeder. does anyone know for a fact, not specualtion, that the 3800 can print longer than 22" in the

manual fine art paper feeder (not the top main one).. with 35mm and some formats being 2/3

proprotion, to take advantage of the width of this printer , one of course needs to print to 16 by 24 or

so..My plan is to buy larger sheet paper and cutg it down to say 17 by 36... or something like that.

Basically, is it only the top main feeder where one can make prints longer than 22"???

many thanks

Mark

I have the Rebel XT. I prefer a 3 to 4 proportion image, and of course being a "35"MM frame camera, it is

2 to 3 proportion. the higher end Eos 5d has a removeable focusing screen- in theory one could have it

marked with crop indicators for 3/4. The Xt does nor have a removeable screen. also it does not have

cropping in camera lines like the Nikon D80.

Does anyone know if there is a service where I can have the screen replaced or the one taken out and

marked with cropping lines so i can see 3 to 4 ration instead of trying to "think" the ends being cropped

off when I frame. I know the Olympus Digital slrs are four thirds cameras, thus the images are the

proportion I like- 3 to 4 but their newest camera is not going to be released in the US.

Any ideas are welcomed.

Mark

Sorry, its mostly my fault. I have a big job that has to be printed on a deadline and I wanted

to try to get as much info as quicly as possible. thank you all for making me feel ok about

using this paper on the 2400. In regards to the back feeder, I almost always have success

using it. You just have to do it right. (Push the paper gently until is stops and maintain slight

finder pressure on the papers edge until the feeder grabs it. it'll pull it in and self adjust.

mark

Is the Moab Entrada 300 weight (the heavier paper) too thcik for the back feeder special attahcment on the

epson 2400? I sometime use Hahnemuhle 308 Photo Rag on the 2400 on the back attahcment but the

Moab is very slightly thicker... si this a problem?

Thanks

Mark

I have the eosn 2400. its a great printer. I know to use the back special attachment for Ultrasmooth,

Watercolor, etc papers. I sometime use hahnemuhle 308 Photo Rag in that feeder. Does any one have

experience with the Moab Entrada 300 weight (the heavier weight) I want to know if the paper is ok in the

special back attachmant. I assume (?) its too thick for the main top feeder. The Moab is slightly thicker

than the Hah. Photo rag, even though its about the same weight.

thanks in advace

mark fields

Philadlephia

Sorry, I meant Rc papers.. I'm a bit tired.

mark

Thank you all for your repsonses. In regards to the post about hahnemuhle Fine Art pearl

(or the Crane Museo for that matter), what have you discovered as to the issue of

"outgassing" on that paper. I know it is the medium/ink no the paper that is "outgassing".

But the RT papers seem to be the probelm as oppsed to the matt papers. Fine Art pearl,

which i have used and think is a gorgeous paper has coating for recveing the Photo black

on my 2400, but the backing is a paper, I think , unlike the Epson Luster which is kind of a

plastic.

I suppose I should still let the paper dry but for how long before framing under glass.

should i still layer the HaH Fine Art pearl between sheets of paper, or dry them with a hair

dryer as some reccommend. I think I wouild permanently stay with the Fine Art pearl once

I feel confident I can frame the photos and not have the glass fogged.

Your thoughts and actual pratical experience are very appreciated.

Mark

I am thinking about using the Entrada Brite White 300 weight on an epson 2400. I know to use it in the

back single sheet feeder ( I have already sued the Hahnemule 308 gsm Photo Rag) that way.

Should the Moab work fine that way?. its slightly thicker (marginally) than the Hahnemuhle...

Also, in what circumstances does one check the Thick paper box in the Epson 2400 software .

Do you check it only when using the fron feeder(I don't sue that feeder)

Thanks,

mark

I have started using the Hahnemuhle Fine Art Pearl. I love it. it will probably become the only paper I use,

except maybe the epson enhanced matt for 'previews"

I know about "outgassing" probllems with some papers (RC papers, Epson Luster) if they don't have a long

time to dry.

Does any one know about this issue with FAP specifically. I have a few prints that have been purchased

and need to be framed and shipped. I printed them a week ago, air dried them, layered them twice in

clean white bond paper. should that be sufficient? I do not want to encounter glass "fogging" in 6

months.

many thanks in advance

mark

I have the Epson 2400: I have used the Ultra Smooth Fine Art but not the Velvet fine Art

What are the differences in characteristics between the two?

Which is "whiter' (not having a "natural, cream, beigy tone)

which has a smoother, more "photographic look"

Does the Velvet seem "substantial" enough (feel, weight, thickness) compared to the USFA

and do they both go through the rear, hook on feeder on the 2400?

what really seem to be the differences?

many thanks

I have done a carefull study with the viewfinder on my rebel XT. the sensor/viewfinder

alignment ia off by .5 degrees. It is not a focus or distortion (barrell/pincushion) issue as I

do understand what those are about. I did a carefull tripod test with the bottom of the

frame exactly lined up with a sqaure frame and the left bottom is tilted up(the entire frame

is roated .5 out of "square". I do understand that the viewfinder shows about 94-95 % of

what is actually captured in the file- that is not the issue. Every one of my images-

particulalry those that involve angles and straight lines with horizon lines/curbs/windows

etc require that I rotate my images in photoshop .5 degrees. It is easily noticeable. has

anyone else had this issue and can canon fix it. Could I demand replacement body? It

happens that because 5 % of what is in the files was not actually seen in the viewfinder

(becuase its not a 100% accurate viewfinder) after I rotate the files .5 (to the left) I do not

loose any of what i thought i was getting anyway but its still a hassle.. I just crop off that

bit that i loose. Any ideas? I think I'd prefer to have it fixed or get a replacement.

Your thoughts/ experience with same?

Many thanks.

mark

I am experimenting with a pinhole cap on my mamiya 645 body. (i plan to buy a pinhole

cap but this experiment i drilled the cap i had) My question is: Is it ok to fire the shutter

as I always have, excepting the difference being that I don't have a lens on the camera. I

mean,

having the body cap on it instead of a lens, when the shutter is fired, it won't hurt the

body or lens etc./?? I realize i'll probably need long exposures. I have a calbe release.

Is it better to lock up the shutter (using the "T" on the cable release and just putting a

piece of tape on the cap? Or should I just "fire" the shutter as the way to provide the

exposure? suich as 5 sec, 30 sec... what do i do if I want/ need 5 minutes?

I am assuming you just use the shutter as usual, preferrable using a cable release and

"hold" it open as long as necessary. I just want to know that its ok to fire the cocked

shutter with the body cap on the camera and that it won't damage anything. ( know you

can cock/fire the shutter without a cap or lens.

Thank you.

Mark

I have both the epson 2400 and EPSON 2200. Using the Pictorico OHP trans film, do i use the

matt ink or the photo black?

Please forgive me to those who may have responded to this similar question in another

forum. I believe that the 308gm is slightly thicker than the epson ultrasmooth fine art or

their Velvet fine art and since their single sheet feeder (the back attachment) setting in the

software does not indicate an allowance for thicker paper, i am still concerned about

putting this 308gm Photo Rag through that path.

If the Photo Rag is slightly thicker than the Ultrasmooth fine art, could it harm the printer?

I have looked very closely at them side by side, and the difference is barely detectable but i

do believe the hahnemuhle rag is very slightly thicker.

and does anyone know the exact thickness of the 308gm hah Photo rag? I have looked

everywhere and i can't find the exact thickness....

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Thank you all for your response. I have the 2200 as well as the 2400 and the paper paths

are very different so I felt i could not assume that the 308 "H" rag would be ok on the

2400.

Does anyone know the actual exact thickness of the 308gm hahnemuhle rag? if you do

please let me know.

Also, since some of the responders have the 2400, does anyone know if when you are

setting the paper profiles in the software prior to printing (such as Watercolor, Velvet,

etc)- whether the roller/thcikness path is adjusted automatically by the printer. I think the

4800 and larger "pro" printers adjusts the actual thickness of the paper path using the

single sheet feeders.

Thank,

mark