faysal
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Posts posted by faysal
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<p>A lot of people have also complained about their sigmas, needing to send them back as well...</p>
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<p>You aren't really losing reach. Just crop the photo, its the same effect...</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>The 85L is a gorgeous item with amazing ability to capture the right color and contrast of a scene. The 85 f/1.8 is a great sharp and fast (AF) lens with good color rendition.<br>
For studio work, there is no competition. However if there are any other variables, I'd say save until you can have both the 135L and the 85L together... just my 2 cents. I'd never give up the 135 on the 5D.</p>
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<p>I've been told what Bob said and also that the AF will be a tad faster w/ the v3 and that the IQ will be slightly less distorted. I was happy enough with the v2 1.4x on my 135.....</p>
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<p>As to using primes at a wedding being a no no, many wedding photographers would call one crazy for not using primes at a wedding. Seems kinda funny to me. They also suggest you DO invest in multiple bodies because say one fails...you are now pointless at that function.<br>
I'd say don't sell the 24-70 but try one of these two options.<br>
1) Go back and check what field of view you use more on your 24-70...if towards 70... then get the 85 if towards the mid range then get a 50....<br>
2) do add a 50mm simply for the FoV, you already have a 135L for a "tighter shot" so for a "group shot" maybe something wider...hence 50mm.<br>
The 50mm DoF for most shots you'd take at a wedding...even in low light... will be more than usable. No one is going to complain that their face seems a tad soft when printed at 24"x. On my copy at f/2.5 the 85 1.8 and the 50 1.4 are about on par sharpness wise but some websites do indicate I may be "lucky". Regardless its a small pocketable lens and perfect for group/cake cutting/dancing/sitting in pews/ and even the "getting ready for" wedding shots. People have done a lot more with a lot less in the past....<br>
As for 135L indoors.... I think its a perfect lens. I just sold a 70-200 for it because honestly, I got tired of not using the entire range....anyhow I use it most of the time indoors in low light. Being f/2 its wonderful and on my 1.4exII i can get just shy of 200mm at f/2.8 so no complaints!<br>
Whatever you choose, hope you like them (I do own both lenses and I LOVE them)</p>
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<p>I think comparing pixels 35mm or APS-C to MF is ridiculous, its not just an issue of pixels.</p>
<p>21.8mp is more than sufficient for most printing applications these days, but hey, more doesn't necessarily hurt if you have the technology and capability to do so (faster camera, cards computers, and more $$ initially)</p>
<p>As for more pixels, oh well, one day we may laugh at the fact we used 21mp photos instead of the (possibly) future standard of 1GP, but then we would have faster computers!</p>
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<p>@ Tom, I am buying a house for less than that while I'm back at school lol</p>
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<p>5D would be an amazing choice. If you shoot portraits, you will be fine with that camera as long as you have a computer to handle the files for life! Seriously, get it, ignore the 60d, if you just shoot portraits, what does the 60d have that you would need? Tilty screen? bah!</p>
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<p>Canon ones are a tad pricy but work well. The chinese ones have good and bad clones.</p>
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<p>When the 5D came out, all I did was drool at the images taken from it. I couldn't afford to upgrade my 350D at the time, and well, after a lot of waiting I got its younger (newer) sibling. I'm still amazed at how much better of a photographer the camera makes me look out to be :P.</p>
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<p>I went with the II because of the price. I didn't feel like the price was justified. Consider the fact of how useful the ii was before the iii. Now is that use good enough for you? If so, get the ii. </p>
<p>If you have extra cash laying around, buy the ii, give me what's left over :P.</p>
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<p>I tried selling mine on amazon, no luck. Surprised someone is interested.</p>
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<p>If you are bringing your laptop too, I vote similarly, the studio cruzer (pelican case modified) chained to the plumbing, and on the other lock position, use one of those brinks locks that makes it near impossible to use bolt cutters on.</p>
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<p>try using an external release?</p>
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<p>If you just want to buy something new and are not sure what to get, I suggest this:<br>
1) Go to a camera store and play.<br>
2) See if you can overcome your gear acquisition syndrome by attending training classes.<br>
Your desires are all over the place, so honestly, playing around or learning new things may help you find out what you really want.</p>
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<p>Well, not everyone can afford the L glass each time, and not for each application either. If you have a wide angle zoom good for landscapes, (17-40L), a pretty decent telephoto zoom (70-200 f/4 is), and a 50 1.4 and a 85 f/1.8, sometimes if you wanted a wide prime, there isnt 1,500 to invest. </p>
<p>Not everyone has the money for the best glass. And honestly, the nikkor glass is great and the sigma glass is still decent. If spending the most is all that mattered I think most of us would have gone into digital MF.</p>
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<p>I just picked up a Sigma 28mm f/1.8 Macro, and honestly for the price, I love it. I dont really use the AF on it right now, so the lacking of a fast AF motor or USM doesn't bother me.<br>
I'm loving this lens right now. I'd say try it out.</p>
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<p>Haha, I think I'll have fun comparing this to cars<br>
I'm happy with my 2004 Subaru WRX which I got for 26,000 back in 2003. I know, sure the $500,000 WRC Prodrive version is faster, handles better, and is a sure beast - but lets be honest, its way too impractical for my needs, especially considering the price.<br>
500,000/26,000 =19.23</p>
<p>I'm happy with my Canon 5D Mark II, which after tax, insurance, etc was more than the 2500 sticker price, but I won't include that. Sure a ginormous MF sensor with file sizes that would make my laptop cry tears of silicone would be awesome. But its way too impractical for my needs, especially considering the price.<br>
45,000/2,500 = 18</p>
<p>18 is close to a factor of 19.23, so I figure that should be close enough of a financial comparison.</p>
<p>One is definitely better on paper, but not necessarily better for your needs.</p>
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<p>Yes, dead bug.</p>
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<p>I notice it isnt really affecting the image, but for peice of mind sake, and so I know it won't get worse, I'd like it removed.</p>
<p>And puppy face, its not the outer most element. Its on the inside, and when you focus it, the element the bug is on appears to be moving forwards and backwards.</p>
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<p>Its definitely on the lens, on the element I was speaking of. If you remove the lens, its still there, its on the focusing element.</p>
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<p>Alright, I'm not sure how this happened, but today I noticed there was a bug on the element that moves when focused. I cannot shake it off, and it seems just stuck on there. No idea whatsoever how this happened. Its less than a year old, but I feel this isn't canon's fault just bad luck. How much would it cost to get removed?</p>
<p>Instead of taking a picture of it, let me try describing it. This bug appears about the size of the ball on a push pin, but this seems to be because of the magnification.</p>
<p>I notice its not coming out in the photos, but its bothersome to have there. Any ideas?</p>
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<p>I use 16 and 8gb and those are more than enough on the 5dii for pics. I feel the larger you go, the more you might lose if the card messes up, which sadly has happened to me more often than I'd like.</p>
<p>So because of this, I tend to like to have a card that stores around 500 shots of what I like to shoot. For me, its just the Largest Raw setting, no jpeg.</p>
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<p>I think the separate button is the way to go, when I discovered it years ago, I fell in love with that feature. Going back to the default setting is like going from a manual car to an automatic, you feel something is missing (the clutch!)</p>
Is "IS" that important?
in Canon EOS Mount
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