chris_klug3

<p>I'll just throw me two cents into this great discussion... I always prioritize the picture-taking experience over sensor size (up to a certain point). If the camera isn't easy/fun/efficient to use, why bother? I believe this to be more true than not, because if the photographer is *into* the experience, the images will be better, I believe.<br>

Second cent is that I believe seeing the subject is crucial, and nothing does that better than a rangefinder window. I own a Fuji XT1, which has one of the best EVF today, and I still prefer my Zeiss Ikon.</p>

<p>Noah, I love Zeiss glass, and I own the ZF.2 50 Planar, and the 35mm f/2 on my rangefinder, so I had thought about that option. Thanks!</p>

<p>Don, your suggestions has the big advantage of size! I love the 40mm focal length (my old Canonet died a while back and, while indeed f/2 isn't f/1.8, I am attracted to the idea of making an already small kit smaller. Thanks! I had forgotten about the Voightlander!</p>

Joe

 

My debate is exactly that... Do I spring for the f/1.4 or settle for the f/2.0? The Samyang seems BIG (77mm filter size).

That makes it unattractive to me, and favors the Nikkors.

<p>Wouter,<br>

From your description, that sounds like my kind of lens. Thank you for your time taken to answer.</p>

<p>Rodeo Joe said:<br>

<em>"If AF isn't a priority, then look at Samyang's 35mm f/1.4 offering. Best value for money on the block IMHO, and a modern aspheric design with low flare characteristics as well. Its great IQ is probably wasted on film though."</em><br>

I will look, thanks. I didn't know they made one. However, I'll respectfully disagree about lens IQ being wasted on film. My Zeiss ZM 35's qualities are clearly visible on my film rangefinder.</p>

<p>Michael, the lens I desire needs to match well with my FM3a. I have rented the Sigma for use on the F100, and (while I van't be sure) I think the Sigma lens might be bigger than the FM3a!</p>

<p>Greetings all<br>

I've in process of shifting my SLR shooting to Nikon. I have an F100 (which started the whole shift, what a lovely camera), and recently I bought an FM3a (again, lovely tool). My lens collection at this point consists of a 28mm f/2.8 Ais (love that) and the default 50mm f/1.8. I'm thinking of getting my hands on the 35mm f/1.4 AIS.<br>

Other than the speed, I don't know anything about the lens (qualities, bokeh, etc.) Can anyone tell me whether, if I was going for a fast 35mm in Nikon mount this is the lens I should be looking at?<br>

I'm sure some of you kind people will have an opinion on this issue.</p>

<p>All<br>

I recently received a Yashica Mat 124G bought from the 'bay. It arrived yesterday. It's a pristine copy, with a lovely case, and I have a return guarantee. I am putting the camera through its paces now.<br>

This is my first TLR, but I have medium format experience with Mamiya 645s. Lots of 35mm film experience.<br>

So, on to my problem:<br>

I got the sense of the way the film advances, with a forward 3/4 turn followed by the shutter cock. That took a bit of research and getting used to, but we're there.<br>

My issue is that after I roll the film forward subsequent to loading, and I cock the shutter. I fire off frame #1, but then when I go to advance to frame #2, the 'click-click-click' of the advance is replaced by a smoother, non-click sound and the advance rotates about 450 degrees before I get resistance, and then I can cock the shutter. However, the frame still reads Frame #1. I can then trip the shutter, and the advance proceeds to frame #2, and then onward through frame #12.<br>

I haven't developed a roll yet (that's tonight). My suspicions are that I have a double exposure on frame #1, while the rest of the frames are most likely ok.<br>

This exact situation had repeated on what is now my third roll, so I suspect something is out of alignment with the gears in the advance lever.<br>

has anyone heard of this? If so, is it easily fixable? Should I just return the camera for a full refund or ask for 'x' dollars off and get it fixed? It's a beautiful version of this venerable camera I have longed for.<br>

Thoughts?</p>

<p>Ok, well, it seems like a combination of things might help.<br>

Rubber eyecup? Yeah that sounds like something I need; I wear glasses so I'm already a bit further away, but in bright sunlight, I have to shade my eyes to even remotely see the dot and arrows.<br>

Where can I find an eyecup like the one you are talking about?<br>

If you are using the f/1.2 that way, then it clearly can be done, but I have to see the dot first.</p>

<p>Ray: honestly, I fell in love with the camera and from that point on, when I want to shoot film with AF lenses, I wouldn't choose anything else. I mean, the mighty F6 is out there, but used they go for $1000, and I don't need that kind of perfection. Yeah, I might like more AF points, but I get all of the great Nikon mount AF lenses and I can use them with film.<br>

And Ray, my freezer is filled with bricks of Plus-X!<br>

I do want a manual focus option, though, and I have some choices, but I'd rather not make my kit any larger than it is already. I love Zeiss ZF glass, and that's only manual focus, so I need some way to do that. The F100 'in focus' dot is fine but not perfect, and in bright light I can't even seen the dot in the viewfinder.<br>

So, my choices are to buy a focusing screen, or buy a manual focus body like the FM3a, which everybody loves, but a used one is $400+. If I can get the screen that seems like the best bet.<br>

Chris</p>

<p>All<br>

I recently acquired an F100 as I am making the switch to a Nikon-based SLR set and still shoot film.<br>

I love the camera's ergonomics, which I why I made the switch.<br>

I also made the switch to access the library of great Nikon lenses, including the manual focus lenses. But while I can focus the F100 with the focus dot, I'd really like to get a focus screen which facilitates manual focusing. Is there such a screen? Can anyone recommend a screen?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

<p>Chris Klug</p>

All

 

I have the opportunity to purchase, at a substantial discount, a D600 that is need of repair. What has been told to me is that there is a

problem with the shutter firing (I have seen a frame, and it looks like half the frame is exposed properly).

 

The other issue is that running under the Nikon logo overhang, running above the lens mount and then repeated on the other side, is a

crack in the body housing.

 

Now, the problem with the shutter could be a result of this crack in the body, because the pentaprism housing could be unstable.

 

The camera has the warranty card.

 

So, I have questions. I am willing to pay for the repair, so long as at the end of the process I might have a D600 obtained at a discount.

The current owner just wants to be rid of it.

 

Given the issues I have mentioned, how much is the body worth?

 

Might those issues be covered by warranty, if the warranty is available?

 

KEH will fix any digital camera for a flat fee of $230. My plan is to buy the camera and send it off to KEH to get fixed, and then either keep

it or sell it, depending on the total investment.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Chris

<p>Thanks so much again. Yes, sad to say, the tab is missing on my F100.<br>

It has already arrived at KEH for repair. The estimate was $120. They are examining the camera now and I await a call confirming the diagnosis.</p>

<p>Chris</p>

You guys have been wonderfully helpful. I will get this fixed. I had heard great things about the photo.net community,

and you guys delivered.

 

Thank you.

 

Chris

<p>This is terrible. Taking it back is not possible. I'm stuck with it. This is due to my ignorance about Nikon bodies. It SEEMED to work when I examined it. My only option is to have it fixed or junk it, I guess. Just curious, would modern lenses need the tab to meter correctly?</p>

<p>Michael</p>

<p>Okay, I will mount the lens and look as you describe. Attached is a picture I took of that area today. I see no tab as you describe.</p>

<p>Chris</p><div></div>

<p>Michael said:</p>

<p><em>"Chris - with the lens mounted on the body, look closely at the small tab highlighted in the above photo while you rotate the aperture ring. This tab should "follow" the aperture ring as it is rotated. If it doesn't, there's a problem with the AI indexing mechanism. If it does, well I'm completely stumped as to the source of your problem."</em></p>

<p>I've seen that tab on other lenses, but this lens has no such tab.</p>

<p>Chris</p>

 

<p>Shun said:</p>

<p><em>"To check the aperture stop-down mechanism, I would suggest mount your lens on the F100 and set the aperture to f11. Press on the depth-of-field preview button on the F100 and see whether the viewfinder gets drak or not. If it doesn't, you can check both the body and lens to see whether the mechanism is working. We'll get into the details if necessary."</em></p>

<p>Ok, performed that test, and yes, the viewfinder dims.</p>

<p>Chris</p><div></div>

<p>Ok, did some experimenting and took some pictures (with my iPhone, btw).</p>

<p>The first test I did of the camera (of any new camera I work with) was to test the camera using my Sekonic meter. Those are the test images I referred to when I said "it works manually." Use the meter, read 1/125th @ f/5.6, fire, boom. This is potentially an important detail.</p>

<p>Ok, so setting the camera to 'M' and looking into the viewfinder, I noticed a detail I had missed before. When I adjust the aperture up or down, the 'exposure scale' along the bottom of the window (where it shows you whether you are over or under exposing the frame never moves. If I adjust the shutter speed, it adjusts appropriately. Not so much with the aperture on the lens.</p>

<p>Chris</p>

<div></div>

<p>Michael said:<br>

<em>"If the aperture ring does have two rows of numbers, it is an AI/AiS lens and should work correctly in A mode."</em></p>

<p>It does have two rows of numbers.</p>

<p><em>When you say "I manually set the shutter and aperture, the frames are properly exposed" does it also <strong>meter</strong> correctly in M mode when you change the aperture?</em></p>

<p>Hmm, let me go outside and check that just to be sure. I'll come back and report what I find.</p>

<p>Chris</p>

 

<p>First off, thanks for the quick replies. I am a long-time Canon shooter who has always been encouraged by friends to try Nikon. Hence the purchase of the F100. I love the ergonomics, so I really want to get this to work. I am at ease with focusing manually, but the metering with this body confuses me at this point.<br>

Answers: Yes, I am setting the aperture ring to control the f/astop. The display reads "- -" for the aperture, as the manual says it will.<br>

Manual setting of f-stop and shutter work, so I doubt it is the lens blades.<br>

The lens serial number is 2710362, which that web site lists as a Series E New, made from 1981-1985.<br>

The lens was given to me free, so that's what I had to test with. I love primes, so it <em>seemed</em> ideal.<br>

Thanks so much for the help.</p>

I recently purchased a used F100 along with an older manual focus Nikkor lens. Reading the manual, it says that Aperture priority

metering should work. But regardless of what f-stop I set the lens, it picks a shutter speed as if the lens is wide open, so if I set the

aperture at, say, f/5.6, the frame will be severely underexposed.

 

What am I doing wrong?

 

If I manually set the shutter and aperture, the frames are properly exposed.

 

Chris