robbi_cooler

Bathe print in strong Coffee.

Here is a link-

LR/Mogrify 2 - Add Watermarks, Border and Text Annotions to Images Exported by Adobe Lightroom 2

<p>Info on Camera Profiles-<br>

http://www.computer-darkroom.com/lr2_camera/lr2-camera-defaults.htm<br>

Color Checker Passport has software that uses a DNG image of the Color Checker to create a camera profile. Photograph the Color Checker with each camera, run the software for each camera image.<br>

http://xritephoto.com/colorchecker-passport-photo<br>

Add these profiles to Lightroom, and set Profiles "Specific to Camera" in the preference dialog.</p>

<p> It is possible, but you need to make sure you either have Lightroom set to save Metadata to your DNGs: <strong>Lightroom</strong> > <strong>Catalogue Settings</strong> > <strong>Metadata</strong> > <strong>Automatically write changes to XMP</strong><br>

Or save the metadata to the DNG manually. (Ctrl+S)<br>

1. Select the DNG in Lightroom and choose <strong>Edit in Photoshop</strong>. This will open the image in a PSD set to its dimensions.<br>

2. Delete (erase) the image (We just used it to get the PSD to the right dimensions).<br>

3. From your PSD choose <strong>File</strong> > <strong>Place Linked</strong> and select the DNG from your Lightroom catalog. The thumbnail won't show the changes, but ACR will open and you will see the changes applied.<br>

4. Don't change any settings in ACR and click <strong>Open</strong><br>

5. The DNG will be rendered as a Linked Object which you place in the document<br>

<em>You can now make changes in Lightroom (save metadata CTRL+S) and see the PSD update to reflect them.</em></p>

<p>If you edit images in Photoshop by sending from Lightroom ("Edit In") then when you "Save" the image in Photoshop the edited image returns to the Lightroom Library.<br>

There is no film-strip in the Photoshop program itself. (PS-Elements ? maybe?)</p>

<p>Use "Edit In" on a raw image will create a new copy TIFF or PSD that appears in Lightroom beside the raw image after Photoshop edits.<br>

Use "Edit In" on a TIFF or PSD image and you have a choice- Edit a new 'Copy' or re-edit the 'Original' TIFF or PSD.<br>

"Save AS" with a new name in Photoshop does NOT return the edited image back into Lightroom automatically but must be imported, or the folder synchronized.</p>

<p>To trim transparent pixels- (crop away all surrounding transparent pixels)<br>

Menu > Image > Trim</p>

<p>You could try-<br>

A sheet of A4 150gsm and mark your print positions on the sheet, add some very small dots of double-sided tape (the removable type), stick prints on sheet, place in scanner.</p>

 

<p>All your "major Pissoff.." problems can be solved by the simple task of opening your "All Pictures" catalog and doing a CATALOG IMPORT from the "Processing" catalog.</p>

<p>My set-up screen in Lightroom Email Account Manager- (May assist your set-up) Works for me.<br>

OUTGOING SERVER SETTINGS-<br>

SMTP Server: smtp.live.com<br>

SMTP Port: 587<br>

Connection Security: STARTTLS<br>

Authentication Method: Password<br>

CREDENTIAL SETTINGS-<br>

Email Address: *****@outlook.com (my address)<br>

User Name: *****@outlook.com (my address again, but may be different for you!)<br>

Password: ************ (my Outlook/Hotmail password)</p>

<p>I read some really good insights into "Stops" in this thread- thanks all.<br>

Another interesting fact about the scale of 1-stop increments 2-2.8-4-5.6-8-11-16- is very useful for studio photographers.<br>

A studio light- bare bulb (no soft-box)- can be moved a distance from the lit subject to halve or double its exposure by simply referring to the 1-stop scale. eg. Move the one bulb from 4ft to 5.6ft will halve the exposure. Moving one bulb from 11ft to 8ft will Double its exposure. And two equal bulbs-one at 4ft, and one at 5.6ft, will be 1-stop difference in exposure (for Main light/ Fill light situations). Two equal bulbs at 4ft & 11ft is a 3-stop difference. etc.<br>

The 1-stop scale numbers can be applied as feet or metres. Knowing the 1-stop increment scale comes in very useful in many situations. Of course it is all about the Inverse Square Law- but that is getting deeper in.</p>

<p>Two suggestions to add-<br>

Lightzone (incredible ability for freeware) but I still support Lightroom :)<br>

Daminion (Great DAM software. Freeware version available)</p>

<p>And one image-</p><div></div>

<p>A latecomer addition- if you have Lightroom-<br>

Select your images in library<br>

Open the "Web" module<br>

Create an "airtight PostcardViewer" Gallery<br>

Export it to a folder , and open the index.html file to view the gallery in any browser (with Flash)<br>

The images show as thumbnails, and one mouse click enlarges the selected image. Another click back to the thumbnails.</p><div></div>

<p>My suggestion might be to buy Lightroom (it's worth every penny!) Buy a good reference book such as that by Scott Kelby. You will have 90% of your editing needs. To advance to pixel editing for cloning and other manipulations try the freeware GIMP (or PAINTNET if you have Windows PC). When a bit more advanced buy Photoshop Elements.</p>

<p>Chas, if you use the Export/Import methods all your edits and keywords will remain- Step summary-<br>

For each computer-<br>

1) In the LR "Folder view" choose the top folder of all the images<br>

2) Go File Menu > Export as Catalog (Must tick "Export Negative Files" and "Include Previews")<br>

3) Save the export folder to the desktop (with a unique name)<br>

4) Copy the exported folder to your External Drive into a "Master" image folder.<br>

5) Repeat steps 1-4 for each of your 3 computers. (eg. name folders- First, Second, Third)<br>

To Combine the Catalogs-<br>

1) Locate the "???.lrcat" file in the "first" folder on the external drive and run it to open LR.<br>

2) Go File Menu > Import from another Catalog. Choose the second folder on the external drive.<br>

3) repeat step 2 for the third folder.<br>

All three folders with all your images will now be in 3 sub-folders of the "Master" folder. You will be able to move and rename these as you desire in LR.<br>

All your edits will remain, your only hassle will be that you will have to choose which image to keep where multiple copies exist.</p>

<p>I have seen an excellent article with relevant information here-<br>

http://dpbestflow.org/camera/camera-scanning</p>

<p>I have just recieved my copy of Scott Kelby's 'Lightroom 5 book for digital photographers', $40.50 from Bookworld (bookworld.com.au) post paid delivered in 3 days from order! Looks great and excellent value! I think LR5 will be obsolete before I finish reading these 500 pages.</p>

<p>Have you read the 200 page "help" manual in pdf format? which you can download to keep for reference anytime.<br>

http://helpx.adobe.com/pdf/lightroom_reference.pdf</p>

 

<p>Have you looked in Windows-7 to check what screen profile is actually being used? Extract of 'How To' notes follows-<br>

<strong>In WINDOWS-7 ( & Vista)</strong> <br>

Colour profiles exist in the sub-folder: C:\Windows\system32\spool\drivers\color<br>

It would be unusual for a default profile not to be installed in Windows-7 (or Vista).<br>

To Check the DEFAULT Colour PROFILE-<br>

1. Open Control Panel. [sTART]>[CONTROL PANEL]<br>

2. Select- [COLOUR MANAGEMENT]<br>

3. Select the TAB- ADVANCED<br>

4. In the boxed area "Windows Color System Defaults" the "Device Profile" is most likely set to [sRGB IEC61966-2.1] <br>

The profile can be changed in the 'Drop-down' box (eg. Adobe RGB 1998 is at the top of the list). A profile created by Color-Munki (or other Calibrators) will also appear in this list.</p>

<p>Good advice above! and you have the "dust and Scratches" filter in Photoshop.</p>

<p>Another thought- Did you use the controls on the monitor screen (not the computer) to reset it back to "factory default" and turn off any colour presets like "vivid", etc. This step is always advised before using a calibration device.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>the monitor didn't change.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I have experienced a situation where my Spyder calibration profile would not load. (in fact it did load) but my Nvidia graphics card would over-ride the Spyder profile and reset the Nvidia settings with resulting weird colours. I had to open the Nvidia Control Panel in Windows Control Panel and put a 'tick' in the line- "Other applications control colour settings." now my calibration profile loads and the screen looks great, my prints are great. So a hint- check all aspects of your graphics card.</p>

<p>Never in Australia.! TOGS are swimwear, bathing costume, budgie smugglers, speedos, banana bags, etc.<br>

Never photographers.!</p>

<p>I used a "Set and Forget" program for a while, tested it one day and found it backed up all the .XMP sidecar files, but NOT the Nikon .NEF images!- useless. It didn't identify .NEF files!<br>

Now I run Microsoft's Synctoy v2.1, a simple program that can Sync, mirror, append.-never easier.</p>

<p>David you have not mentioned- "Making Channel Masks from Native Color Channels". Learn the techniques for this and you can have better selections than the 'Tools' can do- all in Photoshop, no other programs needed.</p>