hang_chung

July 8, 2011

Some earlier designs like CANON FD 300/2.8 SSC Flourite also has a exposed flourite element, and they still apear on the market like ebay/B&H after almost 40 years, so judge it by yourselves

July 4, 2011

Mark, you're right if you're talking about rear filter mechanism, but not for front protector like the one you'll find on L lense.

Flat clear protecting element in front of all refractive glasses has no effect on the optical path at all (except some theoretical loss in optical quality), Just the same as you adding a screw-in protecting filter on you lenses.

July 3, 2011

1.800/5.6 L (both breech lock & bayonet versions) has protective front glass. 2.800/5.6 SSC has not. If the seller is correct about "missing front glass", he/she should be referring to L version. For FD lenses, flat/protective front element is exclusive for L lense only. The reason for adding this is because UD/FLOURITE are much prone to scratches than "normal" glasses. Without that front element its easy to damage the UD/FLOURITE glass while cleaning

April 30, 2011

I guess its simply a false operation. Are you mounting the lens on body when the stop down lever is pressed? (a red line will be shown on lever as a warning)

December 12, 2010

Speed Finder , no matter the old one for F-1 or the new onw for New F-1, are very easy to be disassembled & cleaned. I believe most professionals could do the job, or you may even DIY.

December 1, 2010

Believe me, you will certainly be disappointed by those cheap glassed FD-EF adapters. Feels like shooting with lomo cameras.

December 1, 2010

The regular 1x filter should have no specific effects to your photos but its certainly neccessary. For a lens with rear drop-in filter system, even you're not using any special filters (red/yellow/ND & UV), a piece of clear glass (which means the regular 1X)is needed to maintain the optical path the same as when you're using any filters.

You can try that: Focus on any object with the 1X filter mounted on, then take out the 1X fiilter, you should able to see the focus being shifted forward (closer to the camera).

Its very normal which the length of the lens remains while turning the focus ring as most of FD tele lense (300mm or above) are with internal focus(or called rear focus). The focus elements are located at the back of the lens so your won't see any movement at the front.

Recently I had open a thread about adapting FD tele lense on EOS but seems that's an unwelcomed issue in here, so i decided not to continue to write on that. Your should still able to see that thread at the first page

November 16, 2010

Yup. breech lock style & bayonet style(NEW FD) are different in attaching/detaching operation only (the appearance also). Both of them fit on the same adapters/cameras.

November 16, 2010

BL stands for Breeh Lock mount - which means the old FD version. If there's no BL on its name, it refers to NEW FD version

November 16, 2010

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=2257029">Vladimir</a> Here is the photos of the adapter. Thanks <img src="http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs388.ash2/66600_480901880475_617005475_7168319_6681254_n.jpg" alt="" width="720" height="540" />

November 16, 2010

So here is the part 2.

Even using a 1mm adapter, you still have 3mm unwanted extension so infinity focus is not possible at this stage. But we have a last hope- focus calibration. Every FD lenses has its own focus calibration mechanism built in the lens .It allows techinican to slightly adjust the focus of lenses (mainly for correcting infinity focus). So we can utilize this function to push the range of focus further.

The followings are suitable for all tele lense using rear group focus (or internal focusing) ONLY . Older tele lens with helicoid focus is not mentioned because I didn't have any of them.

All FD IF lense has the same structure and its can be divided into 3 parts:

-Main optics

-Focusing unit

-Aperture & mount

The main optics & the aperture could be left untouched, we are going to deal with the focusing unit only.

I'll start from a simple one - 300 F/4. Originally, by using the silm adpater on EOS, ther farthest focus distance is 24m .After the calibration done, it will be extended to 100m.

The steps for this lens are realtively easy. Take off the rubber cover on the focus ring & turn it to infinity position. You should see a chrome screw and a row of holes. ( The chinese characters in these pictures could be ignored)

Loosen the screw a bit (no need to take it off), use toothpicker or anything thin enough to insert into one of the holes & push it higher (closer to the main optics).

Finally tighten the screw, install the rubber cover back & the calibration is finished. Its recommended that you mark the position of the focus group before loosening the screw, so you can recover it to original setting easily.

This is the basic of focus calibration & we are going to deal with another lens ---300/2.8L. This lens (& also All FD white tele) will be a bit complicated so I will leave it to part III.

Thanks for watching

November 11, 2010

I'm not intented to make businese here. All I want is to share my experiences. Besides, I don't accept order outside CN/TW, at least for now. However I'll be more carefull about this, thanks for reminding

November 11, 2010

Louis, I sell this for 400HKD ( about 52USD) in Hong Kong (together with focus calibration service for free). Considering to put it on ebay later, but I don't have much left, probabaly need to order them from factory once again.

November 11, 2010

Yup, I saw that before. That's somehow a balance between 3rd party & geniune adapter. Better images quality and lower cost. But the drawbacks are the 1.4X multiply & smaller aperture . After all, additional glasses are added between the lenses & camera, decline on image quality is inevitable , even the 1.26X fd-ef converter is not an exception.

November 10, 2010

Hi I a FD user from Hong Kong.Don't know if its appropriate to start the thread here, FD page. Tell me if its better to talk in EOS page.

The following has been a commonly asked question: "How can I use my FD lenses on EOS body". There's 4 "traditional" solutions: 1. genuine CANON FD-EF convert -- extremely rare & expensive, 200mm or above only 2. 3rd party glassed adapter -- crappy image quality 3. 3rd party non-glassed adapter -- no infinity focus , macro only 4. Lens mount conversion -- permanent & destructive, time consuming

All these has their own pros & cons, but neither one could be called a good solution, at leat for me, personally. So here I'm suggesting a 5th way: A combination of customized slim non-glassed adapter with focus recalibration. That might not be a brand new idea ( I saw similar idea. eg: making silm adapters), but what I'm aiming for is to promote it to become a stream or trend, so less FD lenses will be destroyed(mount conversion), and more people can ultilize their treasures in Digital.

This 5th solution also has its own pros & cons.: Good: -Best image quality( compare with using glassed adapters) -Cheaper, easier & faster than mount conversion -infinity focus available on ALL supertele lense (300mm or longer) with rear group focusing. ( except 300 f/4)300mm or longer -Easy to be undone -Won't lose the compatability with FD body. 1 lens for both FD & EOS body, wow!

bad: -for tele lens with 300mm or longer only. -deviation of the focus distance indicator on focus ring (though its not a big problem for supertele) -when use on FD body, the closest focus distance would extends approx. 20cm

In the following I'll explain how its works in detail.

The registration(distance between lens mount & film plane) of FD is 42mm, and EOS is 44mm, which is 2mm longer (more if you included the thickness of the adapters). Thats like a thin extension tube is added when you mount FD lenses on EOS body: the whole focusing range will be shifted backward & you lose infinity focus. For the registration difference, its inborn, something we can not change at all (under the rules that we don't convert mount of either side). So what we work on is to minimize the thickness of the adapters. On Ebay there's 2 types of non-glassed adapters. -Thick one, 10mm thick, rotating lever for aperture setting -Thin one, 5mm thick, no lever for aperture setting (you can shoot with aperture wide opened only) All these 2 are far from the word "thin", so I decide to make a customized adaper .

Two month ago, I sucessfully developed the 3rd type and produced 50 of it (by machine of course) from the factory in China . This is a 1mm think adapter with a fixed lever for aperture setting. The adapter has been tested by many users (include both apsc & FF EOS user) and proved it will not collide with mirror. By using this adapter, you can extend the farthest focus distance about 2-3 times compare with the 10mm adapter. However thats still not enough to get infinity focus with any FD lenses. So we need the 2nd process-----focus calibration. I will explain that at part II later, as I'm hurry to go to work now :P

Here are some of the product shoot of the adapter & its temporarily available in China & Taiwan only.

So please be patient for the part II. I will get it done ASAP. Thanks for watching

November 9, 2010

Here are some of my collection of New F-1

The last 2 are CG rendering I done about 2 year ago :P

October 25, 2010

I checked the focus screen yesterday. You are right, Rick. The focus screen is special designed for F-1 high speed. Unlike usual F- screens, there's no label at the frame. You can still see the little window (for transmitting the light from screen to meter ) at the frame of the screen, but the glass itself clearly have no ray splitting.

Although the screen is exclusive for F-1 high speed, but you can still mount it on normal F-1 ( Of course you won't be able to get correct metering). Also you can use other F-1 screens on the F-1 high speed, only a bit darker.

I may take some photos for that later

October 23, 2010

Rick, You raised a good question. According to the virtual musem of canon, the focusing screen should be the standard A screen & its interchangable with other F-1 screens. Can you provide any sources about the non-metered screen you're saying?

Also, I may check the camera tommorrow to confirm that.

October 23, 2010

Philip, the most exciting part of this camera is on the fps dial. It uses a variable resistor to control the shooting speed, you are able to adjust the speed between 4fps to 9fps steplessly, even the camera is shooting ( Of course you don't expect someone would actually turn the dial during shooting:P)

October 22, 2010

Rick, The camera has metal shutter. I also recognised some rumors about cloth shutter for this camera, but I didn't actually saw any. I doubt whether cloth shutter could really stand such high speed shooting.

As I know there's a minor different between the earlier & later version of this camera. For the earlier model, the power on/off switch is set on the fps dial at the back of the motor drive. Later version has removed the "off" option on fps dial, and the power on/off is directly controlled by the aperture stop down lever, preventing the camera mistakenly shooting without aperture stopped down---------the shooting speed is so fast which you need the aperture being stopped down before releasing the shutter, otherwise the shutter will open before the aperture get in the right place

October 22, 2010

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5373843">paul wheatland</a> Thanks but there's already 4 of them in the package, 2 for spare.

October 21, 2010

I also record the sound of its awesome 9fps shooting :P

<a href="

target="_blank">

October 21, 2010

Let see some photos of this excellent camera

If you can't load the following pictures, please visit the thread I started in other chinese forum:

<a href="http://www.dchome.net/viewthread.php?tid=943130&extra=&page=1">http://www.dchome.net/viewthread.php?tid=943130&extra=&page=1</a>

October 21, 2010

Hey guys, I'm FD user from Hong Kong. Recently I got an extremely rare F-1 high speed version from KEH and want to share with you. The camera is in near mint condition and with full packing, I'm very happy with that.

According to information from mir.com & many websites, they suggested only 100 of this had been produced . But that seems to be incorrect, cause the serial of mine is 100175, & the one shown on mir.com is 100022, so I guess there's no less than 175 of it.

According to What had been descripted on the instructional manual, the camera was first been producted for the winter olympic , sapporo 1972. After that canon received feedbacks from user (sport jounalist) , they made minor improvement on the camera and they continue to produce more of it for munich olympic at the same year, which means there should be 2 version, earlier and later version of this rare F-1 high speed.

I got some hints about the differences between these 2 from the instruction manual. Let me type them later.

October 11, 2010

<a href="../photodb/user?user_id=14630">Bob Atkins</a>- I hope your 500/8 is a geniune canon FD500/8 (both nFD & SSC ver). There's 2 silver screws underneath the rubber cover (sorry, is it a correct way to call it?) of focus ring. The lens uses these 2 screws to limit the rotation of the focus ring, 1 for closest focus & another 1 for infinity focus. Unscrew the infinity one, then enjoy your FD 500/8 on EOS with infinity focus. Just remember not to unscrew the 1 for closest focus. If there's no stopping for closest focus, you will get the whole lens detached.

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