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s._prior

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Posts posted by s._prior

  1. <p>Thanks everyone for your suggestions and comments. I plan to keep the 90mm macro lens so I will now look into getting a 180mm macro lens.<br>

    Because of the cost I didn't consider the newer Sigma 150mm f/2.8 and 180mm f/2.8 macro lenses. Another poster asked how much better the OS lenses were over the older non-OS lenses and since no one responded I'm assuming no one has used both. Even if the newer lenses were better I'm afraid at just over $1,000 for the 150mm and $1,500 for the 180mm it's out of my price range at the moment.<br>

    In considering the 180mm macro lens it look like I should also look into the Tamron 180mm lens as it seems to be slightly better than the Sigma. The cost of these used lenses appears to bear that out since the Sigma is around $450 and the Tamron about $550 in the same condition. I'll have to decide on one of these. Thanks again for all your comments.</p>

     

  2. <p>I have a Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens and want another macro lens with more working distance and am considering both the Sigmas, 150mm f/2.8 and 180mm f/3.5 both non-os versions, for a 5D II camera. Anyone used both who can offer their opinions on which is the better lens regarding image quality. I do use a tripod most of the time but sometimes use a monopod too.<br>

    A used 150mm lens is about $150 more expensive than a 180mm lens of equal condition. Is the 150mm that much better or is it because it is a f/2.8 lens?</p>

  3. <p>Would your group prefer a camera with an optical or electronic viewfinder, or would an LCD screen be OK? I use a Canon S100 and it is a very good camera with a decent zoom (24-120mm) but I wish it had an optical viewfinder (I'm over 55). Otherwise, it is a terrific camera with the only downside being only about 200 shots per battery charge. The S110 is similar but with wireless capability.</p>
  4. <p>Both Canon and Nikon sell refurbished cameras at a discount with 90-day warranty. A Canon 60D , a step up from the ones you're considering, will cost about $589 body only or for $739 body plus EFS 18-135mm IS lens. Then for your macro work look for a used Tamron 90mm f/2.8 macro lens that sell for $250-$300. It's a very good macro lens. This should be within your budget. I'm sure Nikon has similar deals but you'll have to ask someone on the Nikon forum for their suggestions.</p>
  5. <p>Why not get a flash bracket and mount the SB-600 off-camera. That will produce better results than a cheap ring flash. The cheap ring flashes have a single tube while the more expensive ones have dual tubes that you can control the ratio with.</p>
  6. <p>In the end what will matter most is how comfortable you are with the camera in using it for your purposes. Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc. all make terrific cameras. If you intend to do photography for a long time then it's important to buy into a system rather than a single camera. Rent or borrow cameras of ineterst to you and then choose the one you're most comfortable with.</p>
  7. <p>The new policy by Adobe hurts those that use the product regularly. The cost of renting is higher than owning it outright.<br>

    According to Adobe, Lightroom will still be available as a user-owned product but there will also be a renting option that will have added features not available in the user-owned version. Go figure. In time I'm sure even lightroom will follow the Photoshop model.<br>

    I hope Adobe know what they're doing as I can see lots of people migrating away from Adobe to other software.</p>

  8. <p>I have a couple of questions about this lens.<br>

    1. On a full-frame camera you get a 1x - 5x magnification. On an APS-C camera does it become effectively a 1.6x - 8x lens at the same working distance (I understand the fact that you are cropping and getting a narrower field of view)?<br>

    2. Is it possible to move this lens back and get a greater working distance on an APS-C camera for the same field of view as a full-frame camera?</p>

  9. <p>I'm looking for a point and shoot camera that has a manual focus ring on the lens to make focusing easier. The manual focusing found on most point and shoot cameras are awkward to use. I've tried it on a Nikon P7000 and it wasn't very convenient. The only one I've read about that has a manual focusing ring is the Sony RX100 with its 1" sensor but at over $600 it's out of my price range. I don't mind a 1/1.7" sensor. The camera should be 24mm or 28mm at the short end and 100mm to 200mm at the long end. I'd be using it on hikes for landscapes and for macro shots. Any recommendations in the price range of under $400?</p>
  10. <p>Thanks Irene and Anton for your tips.<br>

    I will have a tripod with me (which I'll use on the shorter, lower altitude hikes) but wanted to take a beanbag when hiking the tougher, higher altitude trails. I think a table-top tripod might be a good compromise. Based on both your responses about time, I think I'll plan a trip during the first week of June.</p>

  11. <p>I'd like to schedule a trip to the White Mountains of New Hampshire, for a week, to do some hiking and would like to do so when the Alpine wildflowers are peaking. Anyone know when the best time is to visit?<br>

    I plan on hiking and will be spending some time at the higher altitudes. Besides the Alpine Garden trail area are there any other good locations to consider?<br>

    Given the windy conditions expected there, how have people coped in photographing the wildflowers? I do plan on taking along a beanbag (want to keep the weight down so a tripod is out).</p>

  12. <p>I agree with Tony that you should look at a body that will use the same batteries, card type, etc. as the camera you presently own. A 30D or another 40D would be my recommendations. You also won't need to deal with a different layout and controls.</p>
  13. <p>All pro cameras have an optical viewfinder so the use of the lcd viewfinder is just another option. Articulated or not, the lcd viewfinder is used in certain situations only and therefore the same would apply to articulated ones. The fact that it is prone to break is no reason not to have one as the optical viewfinder would still be available. So it's not as if the camera would not be useable. Most people would not use the articulated viewfinder in situations where it might lead to damage of the camera.</p>
  14. <p>It depends on what type of macro shooting you do and whether you absolutely need the image stabilization on the lens. If you plan on using a tripod for most of your shots then any of the non-IS macro lenses made by Canon, Tamron, Sigma and Tokina would be worth getting. I don't know how each compares but I have the Tamron 90mm lens and for my needs it is a terrific performer. If you need IS then the only other alternatives are the Sigma 105mm macro OS lens (not sure what it would cost where you are) or the new Sigma 180mm macro OS lens (which is much more expensive than the canon 100mm IS).</p>
  15. <p>If you don't need anything more than the focal length of the kit lens then getting the J1 is a no-brainer. The image quality is better than the P7100. If you want a focal length that zooms out to 200mm then the P7100 would be better and its image quality is quite good as long as you don't go above ISO 400 (100-200 is better). I find the 28-200mm lens of the P7100 very convenient as my point and shoot camera when hiking and it is pocketable and within easy reach when I want to shoot quickly.</p>
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