meissner

June 18, 2012

In the various other 4/3rds forums I read, I have read of several people who have abused their flash and had it shutdown due to over heating. There is the warning on page 44 of the fine manual that you should have no more than 10 back to back full power flashes in a row, and if you do, you should let the flash cool down for 10 minutes.

I think I recall only one person that actually fried the FL-50R flash, and the rest it worked again after letting it cool down. I have burned out a Promaster 5750DX flash through repeated firings with just rechargeable AA batteries, so back when I was using flash more, I figure not to get the SHLV-1, since it would just tempt me to go into papparazzi mode, and burn out the flash.

June 8, 2012

I forgot to mention, that I believe that Sigma has discontinued most of their 4/3rds lenses, so you may only find the Sigma 105mm and Sigma 150mm on the used market.

There is a specialized 5x macro manual focus lens with a micro 4/3rds mount that I saw announcements for a few months ago. It had a USB connection to power the builtin LEDs to give it a ring light.

Olympus offers the Mal-01 that plugs into the accessory port that gives two LEDS on bendable stalks to give you some illumination. Metz offers the MS-15 ring flash that uses the Olympus remote flash protocol provided on the cameras starting with the E-PL1. There was a wired ring and twin light setup from the manufacturer Tumax (DMF880), but I haven't seen stores carry it recently.

For manual focusing, Olympus cameras have a magnified mode in the viewfinder and LCD. If you have a lens that auto-focuses, you can set it up so when you touch the manual focus ring in M-AF or S+M AF modes, it zooms the display and you can reposition the focus point. If you have a legacy lens, you can get into magnified zoom mode via a key press. I would assume Panasonic has a similar feature, but I am not as familiar with their cameras.

June 7, 2012

The kit lens that comes with the newer cameras (starting with E-PL2), takes a macro adapter (Mcon-p01). This adapter also works with the 40-150mm and 14-150mm lenses. It probably isn't as good as a real macro lens, but if you just need occasional macro, it might be worth it, as it is fairly cheap. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the version of the 14-42mm lens that came with your E-PL1. B&H lists the 40-150mm as on sale until June 16th for $299 (normally it is $399), and the Mcon-p01 is $52.

As people mentioned, the Panasonic 45mm is a native macro.

You can also put the classic 4/3rds macro lenses with an adapter on the E-PL1. These lenses are Olympus 50mm, Olympus 35mm, Sigma 105mm, and Sigma 150mm.

I believe the 12-50mm lens claims to be a macro lens, operating as close as 7.87" (19.98 cm).

I think one of the Olympus' future lenses (the 60mm and 75mm) is a macro lens, but that doesn't help you now.

There are various legacy lenses that are macro lenses that can be put on your E-PL1 if you are willing to manually focus.

With legacy lenses, there is also the trick of mounting a legacy lens reversed on a normal lens to get a lot of magnification, but I would not want trust doing that with micro 4/3rds lenses, as I would expect it might ruin the auto focus mechanism.

May 30, 2012

As far as I know, none of the micro 4/3rds bodies support tethering. Given Panasonic has released a firmware update for the wifi enabled point and shoot DMC-FX90 to view the image on smart phones, zoom, and trigger the shutter, perhaps someday they will release a similar update for the micro 4/3rds cameras (presumably with a wired tether, since none support wifi). A russian programmer has cracked the firmware for several of the Panasonic micro 4/3rds cameras, including the G-F2, but from what I can see, he is mostly concentrating on video improvements.

Note, the G-F2 does not support any type of shutter release. The only way currently to trigger the shutter remotely is something mechanical pressing down on the shutter button. For my E-P2, I have rigged up a mechanical shutter release when I couldn't fit the wired shutter release due to the size of the box the camera was mounted in, and you can presumably do video out to give you some ability of viewing the screen and firing at a distance. There is a somewhat expensive unit that sits on the shutter and plunges it based on radio waves (remoteall).

In terms of remote viewing and firing the shutter, this is possible for all Olympus cameras except for the E-PL1 (which does not support a wired shutter release). It is not full tethering, because you can't change any settings, but it would allow you for instance to put the camera on a pole, see the images remotely, and fire the shutter. I have a Yongnuo wired unit. The Yongnuo supports the Olympus cameras that support the RM-UC1 wired shutter release, as well as Canon, Nikon, and Sony. It does not Panasonic however:

<ul>

<li>Web site: http://www.hkyongnuo.com/e-detail.php?ID=242</li>

<li>My review of it: http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1008&message=39307970</li>

</ul>

Apature has both wired and wireless versions, which also do not seem to support Panasonic:

<ul>

<li>http://www.aputure.com/en/product/gigtube_instant_digita_screen_visible_remote_control.php</li>

<li>http://www.aputure.com/en/product/gigitube_wireless_digital_viewfinder.php</li>

</ul>

Phottix also has wired and wireless versions that also seems to have missed Panasonic:

<ul>

<li>http://www.phottix.com/en/wired-remotes/phottix-hector-live-view-remote.html</li>

<li>http://www.phottix.com/en/wireless-remotes/phottixr-hero-liveview-wireless-remote.html</li>

</ul>

May 28, 2012

I forgot about the AF assist light. If you want the AF assist light on the flash, I believe the FL-600R is the only flash that does this for the E-M5. Note, this is from reading other forum posts, as I've only tried out a E-M5 at an Olympus sales event, and have not tried the FL-600R. I don't believe any other external flashes provide AF assist for micro 4/3rds cameras, and the FL-600R only does it the E-M5. As Bruce says, the E-M5 does have a focus assist light.

The other flashes have a red AF assist light, that is only enabled for the earlier 4/3rds cameras, and not micro 4/3rds cameras. I've read somewhere that the red light is not suitable for the contrast detect auto focus used in micro 4/3rds cameras (or 4/3rds cameras with live view). The FL-600R has a white light that can double as a video light that is always on.

May 28, 2012

You probably don't want an IR receiver, since it is line of sight. In addition, the serial encoding of the IR pulses to identify the remote, means that it is something like second or so between the time the RM-1 is pushed, and the camera using it would respond.

There are various radio based shutter releases that use the RM-UC1 wired shutter release capability that can be used. On ebay, you can find them starting at $19 or so. Note, on ebay, ignore the cheapest one that is two cables, a RM-UC1 wired clone and a RM-1 IR clone, since your E-M5 doesn't have an IR receiver for the RM-1.

Now, technically none of the radio based shutter releases don't meet your request, since you do have to plug the receiver into the camera, but there isn't a physical connection between the transmitter and receiver. Note, many of them have a plastic piece that can sit in the hot-shoe for mounting, but you don't need to use the hot-shoe if you are using a flash.

In terms of flash integration, Olympus does have wireless TTL flashes. You use the clip-on flash that comes in the box as the controller, and use the following flashes for the remote flashes:

<ul>

<li>Olympus FL-50R, FL-600R, FL-36R, FL-300R</li>

<li>Metz 48 AF-1, 58 AF-1 (these flashes need a firmware update)</li>

<li>Cactus AF50</li>

<li>Metz MS-15 (ring flash, remote only, does not have hot-shoe support)</li>

</ul>

Olympus gives you 3 groups that can be controlled from the camera with different settings. If you wanted to do FP-TTL mode (high speed flash above 1/250 second), the FL-300R and Metz MS-15 will not do FP-TTL, but the others will. Whether it is equivalent to Canon, I don't know.

If you wanted to fire the camera under certain conditions and not just at fixed intervals, there are various things that will fire the camera based on a trigger. You will need to mount the unit on or with the camera, but if you wanted to do things like an automated picture taking when something crosses an light beam or makes a sound, these can be useful. The ones I'm aware of include:

<ul>

<li>http://triggertrap.com/ -- Right now only iphone/ipad, but they should ship their Aduino units eventually.</li>

<li>http://www.cameraaxe.com/ -- Arduino based units</li>

<li>http://www.bmumford.com/photo/camctlr.html -- self contained unit</li>

</ul>

There are wireless units that combine video out and shutter release. Note, these only do shutter release, you cannot control anything else, unlike some software available for Canon:

<ul>

<li>http://www.aputure.com/blog/2011/12/20/gigtube-wireless-2-live-view-lcd-remote-viewfinder-released/ -- Aputure</li>

<li>http://www.phottix.com/en/wireless-remotes/phottixr-hero-liveview-wireless-remote.html -- Phottix Hero</li>

</ul>

May 28, 2012

You need to press the + and - buttons together until the SL (slave) menu comes up, and then press the + button to select TTL slave mode (press + 2 times to get manual slave move). Assuming you selected TTL slave mode, then press + and - together to get the group (A typically), and then channel (1).

To turn off slave mode, just hit + and - together multiple times until you get to the SL menu, and hit minus to turn it off.

Just to be sure, you need to pop-up the flash on the E-30, and set the flash mode.

May 22, 2012

When Vivitar sold its flash unit to its present owners (icorp?), the new owners came out a series of flashes, and reused the model number 283. The new 283 is camera specific, and comes in 4/3rds, Canon, Nikon, Sony, etc. versions. The older flash that John has is a completely different flash. Most of the old 283's also were digital camera killer's, sending some 600 volts through the hot-shoe. Like John uses, you want something like the Wein Safe-sync to sit between the flash and the hot-shoe.

I have talked to at least one person in these forums that burned out his micro 4/3rds hot-shoe because he put a high voltage flash on the camera once. Fortunately it did not seem to harm the rest of the camera.

May 6, 2012

I've read that some feel that the FL-600R's focus assist light works with the E-M5, but not the other bodies.

In terms of what I use on my E-P2, I use an Olympus FL-36. I own a Metz 48 (previous generation to the current Metz 50), and I tend to think that is too large for normal use on the E-P2, and instead I use it on my E-5.

I would say either the FL-600R or Cactus AF50 is about as large of a flash as I would want to put on the camera full time (they are about the size of the FL-36). Since you have an E-PL1, they will work with the remote TTL mode in the E-PL1 for off camera usage (only some Metz and Cactus flashes do the remote TTL mode). If you want to go smaller, your best choice is maybe the FL-300R.

May 4, 2012

The newer Olympus TG-820 is supposed to have a much better sensor than the 810/610 (CMOS vs. CCD). I just checked at B&H and it looks like the 610 has been discontinued.

April 20, 2012

When the lenses are folded down, I don't really recall much difference in size. The Olympus specification page said the mark 1 was 60x43.5mm and the mark 2 was 55x50mm. The 7mm difference in length doesn't seem like it would make much difference.

April 18, 2012

While some say the Panasonic 14-45mm is a better lens than the Olympus, one of the things that drew me to micro 4/3rds in the first place is the smallness of the lenses, particularly when folded up. The Panasonic lenses are rather big, and lose this advantage.

The 14-42mm that came with the E-P2 is the original version. The newer 14-42mm mark II or mark II-R will focus faster. In addition, you can get fisheye, wide angle, and macro adapters fairly cheaply that fit on the end of the 14-42mm mark II. While a dedicated lens will give you better quality, if you only need wide angle or macro occasionally, it is much cheaper to go with the adapters. There used to be talk that the original 14-42mm had a wobble at certain shutter speeds. Recent firmware modifications have made it had less often, but I suspect the real fix was in the second generation of the lens.

April 18, 2012

In general any m43 lens will work on any m43 body, except:

<ul>

<li>I don't think Olympus supports the Panasonic 3D lens (12.5mm). Also the older Panasonic bodies don't support it.</li>

<li>If the Panasonic lens has OIS (Optical Image Stabilization), and it has a switch on the lens to enable or disable it (such as the 14-45mm or 45-200mm lenses), you have to choose whether to enable Panasonic's or Olympus's IS.</li>

<li>If the Panasonic lens has OIS but it does not have a switch on the lens to enable or disable it (newer lenses like the 14-42mm), the Olympus firmware will turn off OIS in then lens.</li>

<li>Only the Olympus E-M5 has support to program the extra button on the Olympus 12-50mm lens.</li>

<li>The Panasonic lenses that have OIS have an orientation sensor in the lens to automatically rotate the images when used on a Panasonic body. The Olympus bodies without an orientation sensor (E-PL1, E-PL2, E-PM1, and E-PL3) cannot use the orientation sensor in the lens.</li>

<li>Some of the lens correction information that Panasonic cameras' firmware uses to fix things like chroma is not used on Olympus bodies. I don't remember the details on this one.</li>

</ul>

Like many Olympus users, I own a Panasonic 20mm lens, and it works fine on my E-P2.

April 17, 2012

There is a feeling that the original 14-42mm had a wobble at certain shutter speeds. If you shot faster or slower than those speeds, things were great. Olympus did put out a firmware release for some of the camera bodies to make it less likely, but I did see reports that it still existed.

If you have a choice, the second version of the 14-42mm that started as a kit lens for the E-PL2 seems to have fixed the problem. Note, this version of the lens can also take 3 new adapters (fish-eye, wide-angle, and macro) that can be cheaper than getting a dedicated lens.

April 17, 2012

I can't help with the Rokinon Grip, but the E-30 uses the RM-UC1 shutter release. I could imagine just plugging in a RM-UC1 or clone and not using the Rokinon remote release. You can find RM-UC1 clone on ebay fairly cheaply. Note, some of the clone shutter release vendors are confused, and think the E-30 uses the same shutter release as the E-1, E-3, or E-5. It doesn't, it uses the same shutter release as most of the Pens, the E-620, E-520, E-420. If they have a picture of the cable end, it will be trapezoidal, and not circular.

Looking on ebay, I see:

<ul>

<li>You can get a wired RM-UC1 clone for $1.99 from molex-bros.</li>

<li>You can get a wired RM-UC1 clone that does timer functions for $14.23 from emilyandlily.</li>

<li>You can get a radio based RM-UC1 clone for $16.55 from suntekstore.</li>

<li>It will cost $83.99 if you want a wireless RM-UC1 clone that has timer support from photowoow.</li>

<li>It will cost $37.45 for the Olympus branded RM-UC1 wired shutter release at B&H.</li>

</ul>

April 16, 2012

At f/16 you will get diffraction effects. While online calculators say that you will start seeing it at f/8.4 for 12MP cameras and f/7.3 for 16MP cameras, you have some leeway before it becomes too objectionable. The Cambridge in Colour tutorial has a calculator for diffraction: http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials/digital-camera-sensor-size.htm

April 1, 2012

Gary in my experience, the real Olympus RM-CB1 is a lot more sturdy than some of the wired clones. I tend to think the problem I had in the above photo is a design fault in the RM-CB1. There really isn't much you can do if the cable is screwed into the port gets yanked. With the RM-UC1 cable, it will just come out of the camera, but with RM-CB1 and clones, that little screw ring clamps it down -- it keeps the cable in, but if enough force is generated it will break.

However, I didn't mention that several of the real cheap wired clones evidently have real thin wires in side of the cable itself, and if you have a 90 bend in the wire, it will break the wire. After my last cable break, I started buying the clone shutter releases or cables in batches. Of course by now, I know to treat the cables gently.

The one thing the real RM-CB1 shutter release has that the clones don't have is a screw port that you can attach the little cap so it doesn't go wandering.

April 1, 2012

By the way, here is what a RM-CB1 cable looks like if you yank it out:

April 1, 2012

There are 4 shutter releases Olympus has used for their DSLRs and medium/high end digital cameras:

<ul>

<li>The RM-1 is an infrared shutter release that was used with several of the C-* cameras (and even came in the box of my C-2100UZ). It has 2 channels and 3 buttons (shutter button, and Wide/Telephoto buttons to allow the camera to zoom in and out when it is playing back on a TV). The Olympus DSLRs have an IR sensor that you can use with the RM-1, but the RM-1 was no longer included in the box. Starting with the E-500, you could use the W and T buttons for bulb shooting.</li>

<li>The RM-2 is a cost reduced version of the RM-1 that eliminates the W and T buttons (and the 2nd channel) that was included in some of the mid-range C-* cameras.</li>

<li>The RM-CB1 is a wired shutter release that was used on the E-10, E-20, E-1, E-3, and E-5 cameras. The C-8080WZ and E-300 could use the RM-CB1 with their portrait grips. With the RM-CB1 you have to be careful not to pull at the cable, or you will pull the locking ring off the device, making it useless.</li>

<li>With the E-1 and E-300, Olympus had separate connections for shutter release, video out, and USB, and starting with the E-500 went to a combined 12 pin cable that had separate pins for each function. The E-500 and E-330 did not support a wired shutter, but with the next camera (E-400) they added the RM-UC1 shutter release. My main gripe with the design is Olympus never released a cable that allowed you to do video out and shutter release at the same time, but now there are some products that support the combined function. Some of the SP cameras (such as my SP-550UZ) supported the RM-UC1, but the current SP and SZ models do not. The E-PL1 is the only Pen that does not support the wired shutter release. The E-3 and E-5 continue with the E-1 cabling setup (with the E-5 adding HDMI), and do not use the combined cable.</li>

<li>The E-500, E-330, and E-PL1 are the only DSLRs that do not support any wired shutter release (though E-500 and E-330 do support the RM-1 and RM-2 infrared releases).</li>

</ul>

Now, there are several different wired and wireless shutter releases that take multiple cables. The ones I've seen take a 3 pin phono cable, either 2.5mm or 3.5mm. You can try ordering a cable from another maker to see if it is compatible. So far, for the wired shutter release, it looks like the cabling is the same (ground being the connection closest to the wire, focus being the middle connect, and fire being the tip -- you need ground and focus connected to get the camera to auto focus, and you need all three wires connected to fire the camera).

I bought the CL-CB1 cable from the ebay seller cam.plus for $7. It is the RM-CB1 cable for the Pixel TW-282/TC-252/TF-361/TF-371 or RW-221 shutter releases or flash triggers (the flash triggers have a 2.5mm cable for acting as a shutter release).

Doing a search on ebay, I see the seller foto4easy is selling some items:

<ul>

<li>A wired shutter release with timer complete with cable for the RM-CB1 for $16: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timer-Remote-Removable-Shutter-Cord-Olympus-E3-E1-E300-E10-E20-C7070-RM-CB1-/220910716729?pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item336f4e0739.</li>

<li>Just the cable for $4: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Removable-Shutter-Connecting-Cable-Cord-Olympus-E3-E1-E300-E10-E20-C7070-CB1-/320809727653?pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item4ab1bff6a5.</li>

<li>A different wired shutter release with timer (and no removable cord) is also available: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Timer-Remote-Switch-OLYMPUS-E3-E1-E300-E10-RM-CB1-/230460327601?pt=Camera_Camcorder_Remotes&hash=item35a88186b1.</li>

<li>They sell a wireless version, but only for the RM-UC1 cameras. It is unclear if the cable from the wired version would work in this.</li>

</ul>

If you are into hacking electronics, I just found out about a free app for Android phones. You would need to build on one of the RM-CB1 cables mentioned earlier to build a custom circuit that plugs into the speaker port of your phone. You can make it wireless by using a bluetooth remote speaker: http://bitshift.bi.funpic.de/en/dslr-remote.php?lang=EN.

There is a Adriniuo based trigger (triggertrap) that is in theory going to start shipping in April. They don't supply the cable, but I think the above cables will work the triggertrap. Here are their links:

<ul>

<li>Main link: http://www.triggertrap.com.</li>

<li>Different cables and the pinouts: http://triggertrap.com/2011/07/09/making-your-own-triggertrap-connection-leads/.</li>

<li>How to hack existing cables: http://triggertrap.com/2011/07/28/adapting-a-camera-remote-for-triggertrap/.</li>

</ul>

March 29, 2012

Lori: Yes. According to Wikipedia, there were two types of SM cards. The first type used 5 volts, and the second 3.3 volts. I suspect you may have a 5V card. If you haven't used the reader before on other systems with that card, you may have a 3.3V reader with a 5V card.

If you have used it in other systems, Windows might not be supplying a full 5 volts to the card reader. Using a powered USB hub may help in this case.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SmartMedia

March 29, 2012

Wouter and Chris: Note the original poster asked about SM or Smart Media (not SD or secure digital). SM cards were used in Olympus, Fujifilm, and Toshiba cameras from about 1995 to somewhere around 2004, when those manufacturers switched over to xD. Eventually they saw the light and now use SD or mini-SD (well Toshiba doesn't make cameras any more). SM cards are about the same size as CF cards, though much thinner.

March 29, 2012

I don't use Windows, but the last time I tried to buy a multi-card reader online that advertised smart media (I still have a C-2100UZ that I use occasionally), the unit came and it didn't have any SM drive. I would say go to a store that sells the multi-port readers, and buy one with the SM slot, and hope for the best. I would suspect that as the manufacturers redesign the readers for whatever new media flavour of the month, they will drop SM and xD.

I suspect you may want to avoid SM-only readers (particularly those that come with SMPREP). The early SM readers did not use the normal removable USB disk interface, and depended on loading specialized drivers into Windows. Unfortunately Windows XP service pack 2 changed something, and these drivers would no longer work. I think the reader I had was branded Zing!

An alternative would be to find a SM to CF adapter, and use a normal CF card reader. I have one of those, and it works, but I did a quick check on ebay, and I didn't see any for sale.

If you have a laptop with the older pcmcia slot, you can pick up Fujifilm SM/xD pcmcia readers on ebay.

The only other thing I could think of is getting one of the last Olympus (maybe Fuji or Toshiba) cameras that supported SM and also supported being used as a removable device to use it to upload to your system. My C-2100UZ is too old for it to support being a removable disk, but something like a C-4000 might do the trick.

March 28, 2012

The Cactus AF50 that gadgetinfinity.com sells might be worth a look (be sure to get the model supporting Olympus/Panasonic).

<ul>

<li>It can support FP-TTL mode (high speed sync). This is useful if you want to do fill flash in bright sun to lighten the shadows. It is the first clone flash besides Metz to support FP-TTL.</li>

<li>It can swivel and tilt (Nissan only does tilt which means you can't do a ceiling bounce when shooting in portrait orientation).</li>

<li>Like the Nissan and unlike the Olympus/Metz flashes, it can be used as a slave flash for Panasonic, but IMHO, since Panasonic doesn't have a manual flash mode, it is better to use radio triggers than using the pop-up flash for optical triggers.</li>

<li>Like the Nissan, it is roughly FL-36 sized instead of FL-50, which means it doesn't overwhelm your micro 4/3rds camera like the larger flashes do.</li>

<li>The one downside I've read about is the recycle time is on the slow side. If you want fast recycle time, go with the medium/high end Metz flashes, as they have faster recycle times when using AA batteries than Olympus or the other clone flashes.</li>

<li>However, in terms of power, I don't recall whether it is more power or not. In general, if you boost the ISO, it extends the range that you can shoot.</li>

</ul>

Since the same factory (icorp) makes most of the clone flashes supporting Olympus and Panasonic except Metz (and maybe Promaster), I would expect to see Vivitar, Polaroid, Tumax, Bower, and other clones supporting features similar to the AF50 shortly.

March 10, 2012

I've read that the V2 cactus triggers would not work with some flashes (there was a V2S version of the trigger that worked with the FL-36, but the standard V2 did not, and there were flashes that worked with V2 and not V2S). Cactus is up to V5 now, and presumably the new versions work with all flashes.

No trigger that I'm aware of supports TTL (through the lens meter where the camera and flash collaborate on the proper settings) for Olympus, so you need to do all of the remote flash in manual mode (or possibly using the 1970's era auto mode -- unfortunately, auto mode is disappearing from many flashes).

Some of the new triggers do support some limited Olympus functionality if it is important. The Pixel Soldier (TF-374) can tell Olympus branded flashes to go into sleep mode when the camera is turned off, and it has a grouping feature that you can select 3 different flash groups to use. The Pixel Rook adds a hot-shoe with TTL on the transmitter, so that you can put a TTL flash on the transmitter, and the signals are passed through to the flash, and fire off non-TTL flashes at the same time. Unfortunately Pixel does not make the King controller available in Olympus and Panasonic formats, which would have enabled using TTL flashes. I think Phottix has similar capabilities (evidently the previous generation of Pixel had multiple groups while the previous generation of Phottix had TTL pass through, and the current generation of both has both features). I have the Pixel TF-374, and it works ok, though I use it more as a shutter release instead of flash trigger.

Since you mention having the E-420, Olympus has a remote flash setup, where it uses the pop-up flash on the E-420, and certain Olympus, Metz, Cactus, and Vivitar flashes have a mode that allows the flash to be used in full TTL mode. This is useful if you don't have that much time to setup your flashes, and you want something fast out of the box. I suspect however, ultimately, you will get better images by learning how to light manually. Note, the Olympus system uses light from the pop-up flash, which means the remote flashes have to see the light from the flash to fire. In small rooms, the flashes will see reflections off of the walls, but in larger spaces, you need direct line of sight. In addition, in bright sunlight, the remote flashes may not be able to distinguish the camera's flash from the ambient light. In theory a fiber optic cable could be used as a light pipe, but then you've essentially recreated a wired flash setup.

March 3, 2012

While it isn't a high voltage pack (he tends to diss high voltage packs as burning out the flash), you might want to look at Al Jacobs battery. You use the Quantum cable to connect it to the FL-50R. I don't own his battery, but I've thought about it from time to time. http://www.aljacobs.com/

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