louis tsai

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<p><b>Predator Instinct</b>

My apologise, the previous post wasn't posted correctly.

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The eyepiece on my 500N always fall off. I glued it on using hot-glue, since I figured that I will never be getting any view finder accessories for this body.

<p>Since your camera is more expensive, I think gluing the eyepiece to the extender would make more sense than gluing it straight onto the body.

I agree with Ellis too. Even if you managed to squeeze the highlights and shadows close to the exposure latitude of the film, then do tons of burning and dodging afterwards, it would look terrible.

<p>Wait for better light, change location, or move on; just like Ellis said. It won't be the first time you miss a subject the first time you go to photograph it, and it won't be the last either.

I use the Ultra-SMC cir-pol with UV build in. I only put it on when I need it, it absorbs too many stops of light.

<p>The Ultra-SMC series have no front thread, so they use a push-on filter cap. It's very annoying, because it falls off very easily. Also, Hoya coatings are good (and cheap), but delicate, you must be very gentle with them.

My apologies for double posting, but I didn't answer Federick's question properly.

<p>The customs calculate the 10% GST from the claimed value of the item. When the sellers ship the item, they need to declare the value of the item. Bad sellers will either under-claim or over-claime the value. Under-claim to help you avoid tax, but if the item gets damaged, insurance will pay you the "claimed" value only. Over-claim to cover their postage cost if the item does get lost and maybe make some extra cash while they at it.

Australian customs will charge you 10% GST for new goods. If the item is shipped through UPS, use airmail not EMS! The reason for this is because the daily volume for EMS is much smaller than airmail, thus, they check it much more thoroughly. I have never got away with tax when shipping with EMS. I get away with GST at least 50% of the time if I ship by airmail. By the way, labeling as "gift" is not useful at all.

<p>If the "last mile" is handled by auspost (UPS' items are handled by auspost at the end), the limit is AUD$1000 before you need custom brokerage to get your items declared through customs. However, if you are shipping via DHL or FedEX, the limit is only AUD$200 before you need custom brokerage (according to FedEx customer service). DHL will pay for the custom brokerage first to get the item through fast, and thye will bill you later. FedEx will give you a call and you can pay using VISA, but you must pay it off before the item is cleared for shipment to your door.

<p>I had a extremely heavy (45kg) networking equipment shipped from US to Australia via FedEx, and their service is very efficient. By the way, in some countries, DHL can provide wooden shipping crates that's build to your item on the spot. US DHL doesn't seem to do it though.

Close-up filters magnify the image even before it enters the lens, thus it will work on any of your lens so long as you get the right filter size. To gain more magnification, extension tube is a good way to go, macro lens themselves are essentially just normal lens with extension build-in (with optical correction as well).

<p>If you have an extension tube attached, your lens will not be able to focus to infinity, you will need to take it off to do that. Thus, it can be inconvenient if you are like me, owning 1 lens only. Adding an extension tube will eat up your working distance though.

<p>For more info, read <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007MBk">this thread</a>. This thread is just a few threads down from yours, and the replies covers your questions to an extent as well.

Jim, just stop caring, that's the best option. I haven't been a PN member as long as you have, and even I stopped caring. If you are a hobbyist, then who cares what others think about your photo? if you like it, and it satisfies your original parameters for choosing photography as a hobby, then all is well. However, if you are a working professional, then who cares what some John Smit on PN think about your photos? so long as your clients like them!

When I just signed up at PN, I used to rate photos. I don't do that anymore. Personally, I find it hard to put a rating on a photo anyway, so these days, I just comment and don't rate.

I am afraid that this situation will be an ongoing phenomenon because photography is art, and art is subjective. One can not prove that a rating/opinion on art is mathematically/logically sound.

If you do feel a little hurt by their rating, don't worry, I like your photos! I just took a look in your portfolio. Keep shooting Jim, shoot for yourself.

Hey Dan,

I am in the same situation as Arnab as I have not read the books you mentioned yet. I don't claim that Shaw's book is the best on the subject, or the definitive guide, however, Shaw managed to present the subject in way that inspires you to pick up your camera and go out to shoot right away. I think he's succeeded in that regard.

I will be checking these books you mentioned though, because I am in the market for a few good book on this subject!

It also alows you to choose one composition, leave the camera on the tripod, stand back and have a good think about it.

Using a tripod for still objects is always the 100% method of getting a good shot without any vibration, movements, etc

What needs to be said has already been said (in the technical area), so I don't need to elaborate. Arnab, no one has recommanded Shaw before you because I didn't get to reply before you did!

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<p>However, on top of John Shaw, as recommanded by Arnad, I would also like to recommand <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0715312766/102-5069275-3663346?%5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I2PI1ATWCJTOX5&colid=S0DV70LUI961">The Complete Guide to Close Up & Macro Photography</a> by Paul Harcourt Davies, and <a href="http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0240803809/102-5069275-3663346?%5Fencoding=UTF8&coliid=I3VFW29OTZMF5R&colid=S0DV70LUI961">Close-up Photography</a>, by Alan Constant. If you do decide to buy those two books, I suggest you save the title of the books, and click through to Amazon through one of the sponsor links here on Photo.net so they can get the commission for it.

Hey Andrew, I agree with you that websites that resize, flash, bring-to-front any window is extremely rude, and does not respect the viewer. Any respect that I "might" have before I even visited that site totally vaporised when I reloaded that site in IE6.

I use Mozilla, and hence do not have this problem, you ought to try it!

You can also use aluminium foil glued to a piece of cardboard. It's not as reflective as a mirror, but close. It's very cheap to make as you can imagine, and you can make it to all different shapes and sizes (folding ones too).

If you want a more diffused light, crumble the foil lightly then flatten it out, before you glue it to the backing. Paint it with a layer of wood gloss if you want to reflect warmer light.

Thanks for the tip Arnab, I shall try your technique out soon and see how it works for me! I heard mirrors are ofte used as reflector for food photography to give the clean crispy light.

Hey Rene,

I was in your position about 3 years ago (minus the EOS-1V part). I bought an EOS-500N (entry grade SLR, very cheap), which came with a 28-80 f3.5-5.6 III lens. Neither piece of equipment is high end nor of high quality, however, until this day, I still have not exhausted all its possibilities. I admit that sometimes I wished I have a more capable body and better quality lens, but at the end, you should concentrate on getting out there and shot some photos and not the gear.

I suggest you get a fairly general purpose lens to start with, i.e. a zoom lens in the 28-x range, or the 75-300 (either IS or non-IS). They provide you with a good intro into photography without costing you too much money. If you outgrow them, just buy newer better ones that suit your needs better. You will only know what style of photography you like once you start shooting more, and your style will directly dictate the lens and accessory needs.

At this moment, I still only that same camera and same lens, I have added a EF 25 extension tube. I still have not exhausted all the possibilities, everyday, new inspiration comes along, and my setup still covers it well. For a beginner, it's best to concentrate on developing your skill and an artistic vision, and not concentrating on the spec of your equipment.

However, I believe your highest priority is going out, and buy yourself a nice tripod with a quick release plate. Since budget is not a problem, then indulge yourself a little, and get a Manfrotto.

Use the money, buy some photography books, I can recommmand authors such as John Shaw, John Freeman etc. "Basic Photographic Materials and Processes", is also a good book to get into the technical details, it's very detailed, and sometimes too detailed, but as you progress, you will appreciate its contents more. Also, spend some time going through the "Learn" menu on Photo.net.

Hope my advice helps you a little!

Just pick one that will extend at least approx to your height without the center column extended. Extra height is always useful in uneven terrains. I have the 055NAT with 141RC, it's served me well, but sometimes I wish it can just be a little longer.

A "pan and tilt" head is appropriate for landscape work, the 141RC is cheap and good. Which ever head you decide on getting, make sure it has a quick release plate. If you are intending on using a larger lens later on, pick the heads with a hexagonal shaped plate.

Hello Vince,

I have the EOS-500N, which is the Rebel in the US. To be frank, there is no advance features to the Rebel. The manual covers the operations of the camera very well (as it's already mentioned). I think understanding all the "technical jargons" in the manual is at least what is required to advance beyond the "beginner" level.

However, if you actually mean you want to use the M mode, but not sure on how to go about it, then I think most beginer photography books would be a good start. John Freeman, and John Shaw are both good authors on these topics, and they cover some of the basics (system/model independent).

I would also suggest you go through the "Lean" menu on Photo.net's navigation bar. I learnt much of my basic knowledge right in there.

If you often fill your CF card, format them before you use it again (copy the photos out first of course).

I guess what you can try now is, get all the images off all your cards now. Format all the cards, and from then on follow what I just mentioned above, and hopefully it will fix your problems.

Just to add to the previous comment, PhotoShop 6 also has an automated gallery tool, it is crude, but very simple to use.

It's under:

File -> Automation -> Photo Gallery?

PLay around with the settings, there isn't many unfortunately, but they are very self explanatory.