plangereis

<p>I have a 5D and do a fair amount of portrait work. I agree with what everyone else is saying, especially using the center focus point. I always focus with it, and then reframe, and the number of keepers I get from a session is fairly high. Even when I am shooting between f1.8 and f 2.8 with my 50 (1.8) MK I, I get accurate focus. I always shoot for the eyes, and if the model's head is turned I shoot for the closest eye because the depth of field can be shallow enough that ZI want the closest eye in focus for sure. Good luck.</p>

<p>My brother has a 50D, and I sold my 40D and bought a 5D. I am into landscape and portrait work and find the 5D to be a great FF camera for the money. I paid just over a grand for mine about 2 years ago, and have not had one issue with it yet. Having said this, I bought my 5D from a very reputable dealer in Eastern Canada, and it came with a warranty for 3 months. I don't think I will ever go back to a crop camera now that i have had a taste of FF. In terms of lenses, I have:<br>

70-200 f4 IS L, 85 1.8, 50 1.8 mk I, 100 macro USM, and 17-40L.<br>

So I have a number of lenses that you have, Albie, and they all perform magnificently on my 5D body. Get the 5D and don't look back. I shot a wedding using the 5D (as a second shooter), and the images I produced were as good as the Photographer I was working with, or better. The parents of the groom even made a comment along the lines of "Why did we hire the pro?" after they saw what I produced. Good luck.</p>

<p>I have to apologize for getting back to this forum so late. I would really like to thank each and every individual for their insights. My friend and I have hired a guide to get to White Pocket, Antelope canyons, and Stud Horse Point. I think these 3 locations will keep us more than busy, and I am sure we will get some great shots. <br>

As much as I am excited about shooting in Antelope Canyons, I am just as (or more) excited to be going to White Pocket. I really like the idea of going somewhere that not everyone gets to, and I think White Pocket is one of those places.<br>

I am definitely bringing my tripod, my laptop to transfer images to each day, ND filters to hopefully get some interesting long exposures with cloud movement, and ND grads to help with balancing the sky with the the rest of the frame. I know I will not need any filters in Antelope, as there is not a lot of light in them, but for the other places we are visiting, such as Bryce Canyon, Zion, Canyonlands, Arches National Park, and some areas around Cedar Mesa I am sure filters will come in handy.<br>

Thanks again for all your input, and, again, I apologize for not getting back to everyone sooner. My life has been really hectic lately, and I will look forward to being on the plane to Vegas tomorrow. Take care, and all the best to each and every one of you.</p>

<p>I don't have one, but I have heard good things about the Tokina. I considered that lens when I had my Canon 40D, but opted for the Canon 10-22, which was an amazing lens. Good luck.</p>

<p>My friend and I are going to spend 2 days in the Page area during March this year. We are wondering if it is possible to do both the upper and lower Antelope Canyons in one day. I know this sounds a bit crazy, but we are also considering visiting other areas around page, such as Whitepocket, or the toadstool area near Paria. So, what are your thoughts? Should we spend one day in each canyon? Are both canyons similar enough so we could visit one, and then see another area close to Page? I am thanking you in advance for any suggestions or comments.<br>

Paul</p>

<p>I had a choice to buy either the Canon 70-200 f4 with or without IS. It was an easy decision. I feel you have a little more flexibility with IS, but then the lens I was considering was a much longer focal length. I guess it depends how you are going to use the lens (hand-held vs on a tripod). Good luck. Bye the way, the 70-200 f4 IS lens is amazingly sharp, and I have been able to hand hold it at fairly slow shutter speeds, and still get very sharp images (down to about 1/30 sec at 200mm). try doing that without IS! Good luck!</p>

<p>Thanks for all your responses. After doing much research on aftermarket viewfinders, I decided to go with the Seagull viewfinder. The price was $60. I know I may not use it a lot, but from reviews made by people that have been to these slot canyons, they say that it was worth it just for those areas alone, particularly Lower Antelope Canyon. Besides, what is $60 when I have thousands of dollars worth of gear. Alan, I am shooting with the original 5D. Thanks again for all your input.<br>

Paul</p>

<p>I am going to Southern Utah and the Antelope Canyon area this March, and was wondering if purchasing a right angel viewfinder would be useful for this trip. It seems like a nice thing for low perspective shots, and it may be useful in the slot canyons. The next question is which brand? The canon version is pretty expensive, and there are cheaper alternatives on ebay. Any comments or suggestions would help, but I need them fairly quick so I may still have time to order one.<br>

Paul</p>

<p>7D with 70-200 f4 IS (lighter lens than 2.8, and very sharp), or just get a rebel body with a 55-250 and other lenses etc. When I first had my 40D, I bought the 55-250, and was surprised at how sharp it was, and very cheap to buy! If you are already used to Canon, why change systems so easily if you have been happy with your 7D etc.</p>

<p>I agree with many of the posters here that file size should not be deal breaker here. After all, image quality is what really counts. Get the MK II. I have seen so many amazing images from this body, and I wished I could have afforded one, but I had to settle for the 5D MK I, and sold my 40D. Yes, that is right....I bought older technolgy, which many may say is crazy, but I am into prints, and the prints I am getting from my 5D have put a smile on my face. Maybe wait until the MK III comes out so prices on the MK II come down, and then get a MK II. Good luck.</p>

<p>I put in another vote for Silver Efex Pro. I am working with version 2, and have had many compliments on my B&W images from friends, as well as fellow photographers in the club I am a member of. I remember playing with B&W conversions in LR, and found it more work, and I was never as happy as I am now with SEP. Ultimately, you have to make the decision, and there are a lot of options out there. Here is an image I took in Downtown Vancouver in front of the Art Gallery steps.</p><div></div>

<p>Oops. Here is one image from the wedding I shot at.</p><div></div>

<p>Even though I m a Canon shooter, I would have to agree with a lot of the points Peter Z makes. A lot of your decision should be based on what you already have. If you are not that committed to any system yet, then rent to try out different options. I have the original 5D, and love it. This is coming from starting with a 40D (crop). I find the detail much better with full frame, and the lens selection way better with full frame, as well as shallower depth of field. I am getting more and more into portrait work, and love the images that the 5D produces. <br /> I also agree strongly with what Nadine is saying. You have to get used to any new body, regardless of how good the AF is. The AF system on the 5D I own is not the best, but I have learned how to work with it to get a very high percentage of keepers in terms of in focus shots. I helped shoot an Indo-Canadian wedding last summer, and used my 5D with my 70-200 f4 lens. Granted, the wedding was outside, and there was enough light, but I found that this combination was pretty darn good to work with, whereas trying to use my 70-200 on my 4D would have been way more challenging because of the different field of view.<br /> Good luck on your choices. I would say if you need to camera right now get the 5D MK II, or rent one, and save for a 5D MK III when it comes out. There is always the option to get a great deal on a 5D original like I did. I got mine for about a grand a year or so ago, and it is in pristine condition. Then maybe eventually you could get a crop camera (7D?) and have a dual format system. I don't see myself getting into weddings much, but if I did I would want a dual format system so you don't have to worry as much about changing lenses etc. on the fly. <br /> Good luck!<br>

I am attaching an image from the wedding where I was a back up shooter.</p>

<p>Taken in Blaine, Washington State, near the marina entrance from a small bridge. ISO 125/ 26mm/ f 16/ 1/45 sec.</p><div></div>

<p>Hi Steven. I am a Mac user, and I went with Lightroom (I have version 3). I find it easy to understand, and the workflow makes sense to me. I also like that it is easy to work between Photoshop and other programs from Nik while working in Lightroom. I know people that work with Aperture, and they say they like that program as well. I have never worked with Aperture, so I cannot comment on that program. Good luck!</p>

<p>I used to use the 40D, but have gone to the original 5D. I don't regret it for one minute. In terms of auto focus, I have never had any problems with the focus on my 5D. Maybe Yakim had a bad body with issues? I am getting into portrait work more and more, and this is where I feel the 5D image quality is way better than my 40D. I have never used the 7D, but I hear it is good as well. I find the image quality of the 5D is more "film-like" or just has a better fell about it, but that is comparing it to my 40D. You will love the shallow depth of field that full frame offers, as well! I am attaching a portrait I took at f1.8, using my 85 1.8.</p><div></div>

<p>Thanks for the information, Henry. This is what I was thinking in terms of modifiers and their purpose. I appreciate all the help I can get! Take care.</p>

<p>If you are shooting Nikon, then the SB700 would be nice so you can take advantage of the ETTL capabilities. I shoot with two manual speedlites (Lumopro 160s). They have served me well in portraiture, and I will use them in conjunction with some studio strobes I happened upon (family). I guess I am trying to say that the main consideration is the flash's power, and zoom settings. The Lumopros are very adjustable in terms of both power and zoom, as well as 2 slave modes. I use them almost 100% off camera, with stands and shoot through umbrellas. You make things work. Good luck.</p>

<p>I use Llightoom 3, and find it an excellent program for organizing files, and enough image adjustment to be creative in post. Mind you, I am an educator, and get the educational price, but even if I didn't get the discount I would still recommend Lightroom for handling RAW files. Yet, this is only one man's perspective on a program he uses. There are a number of good programs, and as said earlier the DPP program works well, and it is free with your Canon body. Good luck.</p>

<p>I use a few lenses for landscape work. I use the 17-40, 50 1.8, and 70-200 f4 IS. I think you will find that not just one lens will cover all the possibilities in landscape work. If you are looking for one lens, then I would suggest the 17-40 if price is a concern. This is a great lens stopped down. I have a 5D MK I, and love that lens, but then it depends on your style of shooting (wide vs telephoto). If I could only have two lenses, I would go for the 17-40 and 70-200 (f4 or f2.8). I had these two lenses initially, and they served me very well for landscape and portrait work. I have begun collecting primes as they are sharper in general, and you can shoot more open to blur backgrounds in portrait work, especially with full frame. Good luck.</p>

<p>This is an interesting post. I am a grade 7 teacher, and remember taking a class to the Vancouver aquarium. I had my 40D, with my 70-200 f4 IS lens mounted. I took a number of photos pf sea anenomes, and jellyfish handheld, and they came out fine. I had to step back from the glass quite a bit if creatures were close to the glass, but just cranked up the ISO, and used f4. I was shooting at angles with no issues like here. Granted the lighting in the tanks was quite good, but not that good. Interesting. To me, it seems that the camera was too close to the object, and not within the focal distance, or there was camera shake. Good luck.</p>

<p>I am very happy with my Lumopro 160s. They have 2 slave modes, but are totally manual, which I prefer because I use them off camera anyway. They have the same output as the 58o EX II flash. My main pet peeve with these flash units are the locking mechanism, which are whee-based, and a little cumbersome, but these lights have not let me down at all over the past couple of years. You may want to check out Midwest Photo Exchange for strobist gear. I bought 2 lights with stands and umbrellas for a reasonable price. David Hobby endorses them. Good luck.</p>

<p>Hi Ray. The only processing I ever do is adjustments to exposure, contrast, and some dodging and burning (if necessary for my vision of an image). I did not have to do any white balance adjustments in any of these photos as there was no color cast whatsoever. I remember, from reading the article on long exposures that you provided the link to, that the author praised the Hoya ND 400 filter the most for it's lack of color cast. I definitely have never seen any pink color cast with my ND 400, but you know the way manufacturing can have some variation in it from one filter to the next, just like lenses. I was somewhat surprised to hear the negative feedback on the Singh-Ray variable ND filter, although I have never used that item, mainly because of its price tag! Too bad if that is true, because the idea is excellent, and would present a more streamlined workflow in the field. Take care, and I am glad that you are closer to your decision.</p>

<p>One last image taken of a stream near Mission BC, using an ND 8. The last two images were taken with my 40D (no slouch), and the other images with my 5D. I wanted to mention that I found using a full frame camera more forgiving with longer exposures (above 5 minutes). My 40D did not fair so well once I got above 5 minutes. I know that these images are all under 2 minutes, but i read somewhere that crop sensors limit is near the 3-4 minute range because the smaller sensor heats up to much (or something like that). I cannot remember where I read this, but this is what I have observed using both a crop and full frame sensor, but then again when I was shooting with my 40D I may have just had poor technique as this was the body I first used when getting into long exposures. Take care.</p><div></div>

<p>One last thing. I have shot a number of streams and waterfalls, and I find that I can usually get away not using a filter if the water is moving fast enough, and the light is low enough in the area. If not, I pop on my ND 8 filter and I am good to go. Once again, good luck! This is a fun style of shooting!</p><div></div>